Giant_Scale_Gasser

My Feedback: (84)

Does anyone know a reputable Saito engine shop where I could send my 1.80 to get freshened up?
She needs the valves set, probably bearings, a pushrod tube & pushrod tube gaskets, carb seals etc. She runs pretty good as is, but has a coupe of leaks and I'd like to get her tightened up a little.

I am in Central Florida, anyone know of a good reputable shop?

vpresley

My Feedback: (162)

Hi

you can send it to Horizon Hobbies, or try here: http://www.bj-model-engines.com/

Both are good at what they do.



Vince

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Horizon will tell you it is beyond repair and offer you 10% off on a new one?

Giant_Scale_Gasser

My Feedback: (84)

Yeah, I thought about that, and it's FAR from that. A couple hours ago I ordered in all the parts to freshen her up myself.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

GOOD

If there are any problems or questions, just ask us?

Giant_Scale_Gasser

My Feedback: (84)

I will, thanks. I downloaded the manual this morning so I can get the timing & valve lash specs and when I tear into her, I will certainly ask if I run into any issues. Thanks!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Read around on here.

Setting the cam timing is different for the 180 compared to the small Saito engines. The 150, 180, and 220 have mushroom cam followers. You need to hold the cam gear in the proper position with a thin blade when setting the cover onto the crankcase.

The valve lash is the same for all of them at .002" to .004"

Do not hone the cylinder or lap the valves.

Rudolph Hart

Good luck mate and there's a bill robison sticky around here somewhere..God bless him

Giant_Scale_Gasser

My Feedback: (84)

Well I dove into her today. She is absolutely pristine inside for an engine with 10 or 15 gallons thru her. Valve lash was way off and she had a few leaks but all in all, I am simply amazed at her condition. Cylinder looks great, piston as well, valve stems & guides seems to be in good shape. Cam looks a little suspect and the crank bearings are super clean. I will have a friend who owns a machine shop press the crank for me and replace the bearings. I will be installing a new piston ring & wrist pin, all new gaskets and seals including the carb, new valve springs & keepers and all new seals in the carb.

I am looking forward to putting her back together and curing the leaks and hopefully with the new ring & valves adjusted correctly, she will go on to run another 10 or 15 gallons!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Good luck on the leaks. Some Saitos are just juicy.

On a Saito, the piston does about as much sealing as the ring.

The bearins are best done with the heat and freeze method. The bearings are small and a arbor press working on them cold will ding some of the bearings. Then they will feel rough.

Push the crank out with the arbor press cold.

Oven temperature is usually about 275F but some Satios, the rear bearing is really tight. You might have to go 350F but don't go any higher.

Heat the case and knock the back of the crankcase against a block of wood to shake the rear bearing out.

Re-heat the crankcase and with a dowel up through the crankcase, beat the dowel against the block of wood and the front bearing will pop out.

Heat the crankcase and drop the rear bearing in place.

Heat it again with the crankcase on its side and when hot, place the front of the crankcase down over the front bearing.

Insert the crank. I have pressed it into the bearings with the arbor press but I have also pulled it through with the prop nut.

The bearings are usually not very tight on the crankshaft.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

That's the best, most concise guide for changing bearings that I've seen.

Rudolph Hart

Short is good

Giant_Scale_Gasser

My Feedback: (84)

Okay fellas...

I finished up the bigSaito 1.80 GK tonight and mounted her back in her airframe.

Had a couple of areas that needed good planning, such as making 100% certain the cam was timed properly. Also spent a fair amount of time setting the valve lash.

After getting her apart initially, she looked pretty good internally, bearings were smooth and clean, no rust, piston & liner looked good. I replaced the piston ring, all the gaskets & seals, added new pushrods & tubes. The valve guides were suspect, but I decided to re-use the cylinder anyway. Set the valve lash at a slight snug (ever so slight tug on the feeler gauge when sliding it in and out) .004", put some fuel in the tank, primed her and on the 2nd pull thru, she was off to the races.

She sounds much healthier, idles nicely and she no longer sounds like she is running a Duntov 30/30 (you car guys will get that!).

Rebuilding her was challenging fun. Now I want to do another one!

jeffie8696

Interesting, Iam rebuilding one for a customer right now. Unfortunately the rod is egged on the big end and they are out of stock.

SrTelemaster150

The .004 (.1mm) gage supplied W/Saito engines is the "no go" gage. It is used to check for maximum allowable valve lash.

By setting your valve lash @ .1mm you are setting it on the verge of excessive lash. The proper setting is .04mm. A .0015" imperial feller gaiuge would be apropriate., a .002 would do in a pinch.

Many people see the .04mm spec & mistake it for .004".

By setting your lash @ .0015, you will get a slight power increase due to more effective valve lift as well as opening duration & it will also minimise cam lobe wear.