kool power and after run oil
10-24-2012, 03:59 PM
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kool power and after run oil
i use kool power fuel and the jug says that no after run oil is needed for storage. i understand that after run oil wont hurt, but will the kool power work do the same?
thanks all sb
thanks all sb
10-24-2012, 04:40 PM
#2
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RE: kool power and after run oil
I don't think you will get an answer to that question. There are just too many variables. You will find some who say they have rusted using Coolpower and some who say they have not.
To be safe I would use after run oil, or switch to a fuel with some castor oil content, or even better, both.
To be safe I would use after run oil, or switch to a fuel with some castor oil content, or even better, both.
10-24-2012, 05:08 PM
#3
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RE: kool power and after run oil
ORIGINAL: sweatybetty
i use kool power fuel and the jug says that no after run oil is needed for storage. i understand that after run oil wont hurt, but will the kool power work do the same?
thanks all sb
i use kool power fuel and the jug says that no after run oil is needed for storage. i understand that after run oil wont hurt, but will the kool power work do the same?
thanks all sb
I run Cool Power in Saito 4-stroke engines & do not use after run oil throughoiut the flying season.
I do inject ATF into the case as well as the valve ports & turn the engine over to distributel the oil @ the end of the flying season or whenever I expect to store the engine for an extended period.
In a 2-stroke, where raw fuel is drawn into the bottom end, I would use an ARO regardless of the fuel used.
10-24-2012, 05:47 PM
#5
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RE: kool power and after run oil
Please use a generous amount of after run oil if your engine will be sitting for a while (like over a week maybe, whatever you are comfortable with). Your bearings will thank you. Ijust today had to replace rusted bearings in a customers truck and he had clearly been using full synthetic with no ARO. However with no castor it made the cylinder come out very easily. 
10-24-2012, 06:44 PM
#6
RE: kool power and after run oil
+1 on ARO when using full-synthetic fuels like Cruel Power. The Polyalkylene Glycol oils absorb moisture, and they tend not to stick to metal for very long when not in use. This stuff breaks down long before Castor will.
My ARO brew is 95% ATF Dexron III or IV, and 5% Seafoam motor treatment. Works great for removing crusty carbon inside the engine, and keeps the piston ring from sticking.
I dont put ARO in my engines unless they are going to sit longer than a month. I use little to no nitro, so I rarely worry about 3-4 weeks sitting idle without doing anything on an engine.
My ARO brew is 95% ATF Dexron III or IV, and 5% Seafoam motor treatment. Works great for removing crusty carbon inside the engine, and keeps the piston ring from sticking.
I dont put ARO in my engines unless they are going to sit longer than a month. I use little to no nitro, so I rarely worry about 3-4 weeks sitting idle without doing anything on an engine.
10-25-2012, 06:27 AM
#8
RE: kool power and after run oil
Do not use after run oil immediately after flying, unless you are using an oil that will mix with methanol, such as castor or synthetic oil. Other oils will not mix with the fuel remaining, and any moisture in the fuel will be trapped between the after run oil and the metal surface. This would only accelerate any corrossion. Burn off the fuel and wait several hours with the piction at bottom dead center to allow the fuel to evaporate before adding the after run oil. Otherwise you would be best to follow Morgan Fuels advise.
10-25-2012, 09:16 AM
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RE: kool power and after run oil
I think leaving 4-strokes w/o ARO is more dangerous as on 2-strokers.
The Oil in the crankcase is only blow by there, saturated will all kind of ugly
combustion products like nitric acid. No one needs this stuff there...
Bought this for cheap on ebay, is ok now...
Regards,
Holm
The Oil in the crankcase is only blow by there, saturated will all kind of ugly
combustion products like nitric acid. No one needs this stuff there...
Bought this for cheap on ebay, is ok now...
Regards,
Holm
10-25-2012, 09:22 AM
#10
RE: kool power and after run oil
I have a "new" Super Tiger 61 with 5 tanks of fuel through it. I crashed the plane it was on. I was burning 15% Cool Power Heli fuel. I was not able to get to the engine for two weeks after the crash. The bearings were rusted and need replacement[:@] In fact the rear bearing was frozen it was so bad. Now bearing quality could have had something to do with this also?????
Ken
Ken
10-25-2012, 09:31 AM
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RE: kool power and after run oil
Bearing quality? It is more a question if you have stainless steel bearings or not. IMHO the stainless steel is
to soft to last, but it wouldn't rust that easyly.
Regards,
Holm
to soft to last, but it wouldn't rust that easyly.
Regards,
Holm
10-25-2012, 10:01 AM
#12
RE: kool power and after run oil
At the end of the day after you have drained all the fuel from the tank reconnect the glo driver and with the throttle at idle spin the motor over until there is no more bark that way you have run all the fuel out of the engine. Left over fuel in the engine is the biggest cause of rust as you know it attracts moisture. A little bit of after run oil down the carb for 2 strokes and a bit in a syringe into the crankcase vent and a quick flip by hand is all that is needed. Be careful if you intend to spin your engine with an electric starter that you do not use too much after run oil you don’t want to cause a hydraulic lock. Lots of stuff out there sold as after run oil or home made concoctions. Personally I don't like to put anything into my engines that normally isn't intended to be used in an engine. I use Klotz Technoplate pure synthetic I purchased at the hobby shop. It mixes with both nitro fuels and gas and a $7 bottle will last a heck of a long time as after run oil.
Dennis
Dennis
10-25-2012, 12:34 PM
#13
RE: kool power and after run oil
Nitric acid is not really a problem, but yes four strokes are a challange. I should say also you don't need to wait long for the afterrun oil on a four stroke. I suspect that that one was from a plane that crashed into a lake or pond. The only engine that was near that bad had crashed into a pond, and underwater a few days before they fished it out. And it wasn't as bad as the example you showed!
10-25-2012, 12:38 PM
#14
RE: kool power and after run oil
throttle at idle
And then spin it again. Just because the engine won't run doesn't mean there isn't any alcohol in the engine. Then wait a few hours for the rest of the fuel to evaporate.
One quick flip will not spread the oil around, use the starter and spin it up again.
spin the motor over until there is no more bark
One quick flip will not spread the oil around, use the starter and spin it up again.
10-25-2012, 12:52 PM
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RE: kool power and after run oil
ORIGINAL: tiffitech
Bearing quality? It is more a question if you have stainless steel bearings or not. IMHO the stainless steel is
to soft to last, but it wouldn't rust that easyly.
Regards,
Holm
Bearing quality? It is more a question if you have stainless steel bearings or not. IMHO the stainless steel is
to soft to last, but it wouldn't rust that easyly.
Regards,
Holm
10-25-2012, 12:56 PM
#16
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RE: kool power and after run oil
Most of the complaints I see from rusting heli bearings comes from Cool Power users. Stainless steel bearings will take care of this in 99% of the cases. As far as ARO goes, you need to use something that is DESIGNED fro that purpose. The best stuff I have seen yet is just about any brand of air tool oil. It us used to keep moisture away from metallic parts.
10-25-2012, 01:04 PM
#17
RE: kool power and after run oil
I used air tool oil (KMart brand) for years after every weekend of flying. I had engines sit for several years and still had no problem. I would, as suggested above, run the engine dry of fuel with the electric starter before using the air tool oil, though.
10-25-2012, 11:32 PM
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RE: kool power and after run oil
An Engine wouldn't get much better if it is fitted with stainless bearings and a normal crankshaft or gears like the enya above.
The parts shouldn't rust at all, bearings are only one part of the engine. So since you must take care of what happens to the rest of the engine I see no reel need for stainless bearings.
I run my engines with castor and don't have such problems at all, but I've oiling up the Enginges after run wit a stuff that is called Ballistol and that is available here in Germany.
It is called weapon oil here too and is a thinnish white oil. I prevents the engines from getting stuck from the castor and the engine parts for oxidation.
The seller of the enya above was the son from of a passed modeller and sold the stuff he found in the basement.
He say'd this engine was laying there for years. No one knows what really happened to it.
I've bought this motor for 60 Euros and got 50 back after sending the pictures to the seller.
This was three or four years before..
You should read the Ballistol-Story on their website (trough google translator?) , it was made for the Army of the german Kaiser in 1904 and is
made until today..
Regards,
Holm
The parts shouldn't rust at all, bearings are only one part of the engine. So since you must take care of what happens to the rest of the engine I see no reel need for stainless bearings.
I run my engines with castor and don't have such problems at all, but I've oiling up the Enginges after run wit a stuff that is called Ballistol and that is available here in Germany.
It is called weapon oil here too and is a thinnish white oil. I prevents the engines from getting stuck from the castor and the engine parts for oxidation.
The seller of the enya above was the son from of a passed modeller and sold the stuff he found in the basement.
He say'd this engine was laying there for years. No one knows what really happened to it.
I've bought this motor for 60 Euros and got 50 back after sending the pictures to the seller.
This was three or four years before..
You should read the Ballistol-Story on their website (trough google translator?) , it was made for the Army of the german Kaiser in 1904 and is
made until today..
Regards,
Holm
10-26-2012, 05:49 AM
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RE: kool power and after run oil
I am a big fan of after run oil, and just use ATF. After flying, I run the engine out of fuel, spin it a few times with the igniter attached, and repeat over the course of a few mintues.
Then, I rotate the crank to close the port, and fill the whole carb throat with oil. I turn the crank to drain it, and repeat about halfway. Then I tilt the plane (or car) so the crank is tilted up and the oil all runs to the bottom back of the motor. I wait a minute for this to happen...then tilt it forward. Wait a minute...then start rotating the prop as the oil fill in the front bearings. Finally I flip the prop a few dozen times.
I don't ever use a starter on the motor after loading it up with ARO. Also, on my first start of the day I use a chicken stick to start the motor to prevent any damage from hydro lock.
The method is a little time consuming, but does a good job thoroughly loading up the bottom of the motor with oil
Then, I rotate the crank to close the port, and fill the whole carb throat with oil. I turn the crank to drain it, and repeat about halfway. Then I tilt the plane (or car) so the crank is tilted up and the oil all runs to the bottom back of the motor. I wait a minute for this to happen...then tilt it forward. Wait a minute...then start rotating the prop as the oil fill in the front bearings. Finally I flip the prop a few dozen times.
I don't ever use a starter on the motor after loading it up with ARO. Also, on my first start of the day I use a chicken stick to start the motor to prevent any damage from hydro lock.
The method is a little time consuming, but does a good job thoroughly loading up the bottom of the motor with oil
10-26-2012, 07:46 AM
#20
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RE: kool power and after run oil
Ihave had good luck with synthetic motor oil like Mobil1. Iknow from experience and research that it has acid neutralizers and it is clingy as hell. Iflush out the engine with fresh fuel and it starts right up. Ihave like 60 engines so a lot of them tend to sit around a long time before getting a turn on the front of one of my planes.
My Escapade has had (so far) an Irvine 36,46,53, OS46SF and currently has a Magnum 52FS. Iwas planning to install my Saito 62 but on inspection of the airframe I think I should replace it, its getting really beat up after all the flying it has done.
My Escapade has had (so far) an Irvine 36,46,53, OS46SF and currently has a Magnum 52FS. Iwas planning to install my Saito 62 but on inspection of the airframe I think I should replace it, its getting really beat up after all the flying it has done.
10-26-2012, 08:04 AM
#21
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RE: kool power and after run oil
The difference in NORMAL operation is that it is very difficult to cause rust on the hardened gears and crank in an engine. That engine looked like it was filled with water for a long time and the residual oil emulsified. Under NORMAL conditions, the hardened steel parts wouldn't rust but the bearings certainly would. The forums are full of pictures of spotlessly clean interiors with rusted bearings. Stainless steel bearings would prevent 99% of those failures.
ORIGINAL: tiffitech
An Engine wouldn't get much better if it is fitted with stainless bearings and a normal crankshaft or gears like the enya above.
The parts shouldn't rust at all, bearings are only one part of the engine. So since you must take care of what happens to the rest of the engine I see no reel need for stainless bearings.
I run my engines with castor and don't have such problems at all, but I've oiling up the Enginges after run wit a stuff that is called Ballistol and that is available here in Germany.
It is called weapon oil here too and is a thinnish white oil. I prevents the engines from getting stuck from the castor and the engine parts for oxidation.
The seller of the enya above was the son from of a passed modeller and sold the stuff he found in the basement.
He say'd this engine was laying there for years. No one knows what really happened to it.
I've bought this motor for 60 Euros and got 50 back after sending the pictures to the seller.
This was three or four years before..
You should read the Ballistol-Story on their website (trough google translator?) , it was made for the Army of the german Kaiser in 1904 and is
made until today..
Regards,
Holm
An Engine wouldn't get much better if it is fitted with stainless bearings and a normal crankshaft or gears like the enya above.
The parts shouldn't rust at all, bearings are only one part of the engine. So since you must take care of what happens to the rest of the engine I see no reel need for stainless bearings.
I run my engines with castor and don't have such problems at all, but I've oiling up the Enginges after run wit a stuff that is called Ballistol and that is available here in Germany.
It is called weapon oil here too and is a thinnish white oil. I prevents the engines from getting stuck from the castor and the engine parts for oxidation.
The seller of the enya above was the son from of a passed modeller and sold the stuff he found in the basement.
He say'd this engine was laying there for years. No one knows what really happened to it.
I've bought this motor for 60 Euros and got 50 back after sending the pictures to the seller.
This was three or four years before..
You should read the Ballistol-Story on their website (trough google translator?) , it was made for the Army of the german Kaiser in 1904 and is
made until today..
Regards,
Holm
10-26-2012, 05:13 PM
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RE: kool power and after run oil
Has anyone besides me had trouble with ARO's in OS engines? It seems to swell up their silicone? based O-rings and the needle valve becomes very hard to turn.
10-26-2012, 05:29 PM
#23
RE: kool power and after run oil
ORIGINAL: Ernie Misner
Has anyone besides me had trouble with ARO's in OS engines? It seems to swell up their silicone? based O-rings and the needle valve becomes very hard to turn.
Has anyone besides me had trouble with ARO's in OS engines? It seems to swell up their silicone? based O-rings and the needle valve becomes very hard to turn.
http://klotzlube.com/techsheet.asp?ID=54
10-26-2012, 05:39 PM
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RE: kool power and after run oil
Interesting that Klotz oil mixes with gasoline or methanol. They say the red color gives it a racey smell? Unlike castor oil I assume. It doesn't say a word about rust inhibitors though.