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Testing the new NV (Norvel) .40 size (6.5cc) gasoline glow engine

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Testing the new NV (Norvel) .40 size (6.5cc) gasoline glow engine

Old 07-31-2014, 08:32 PM
  #976  
burmanf
 
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In Australia, the ready mixed glow fuel is fairly expensive so petrol makes more sense than in the USA, but my excuse for buying a GX-40 is curiosity and having something out of the ordinary (maybe not for long if these engines catch on).
I can't understand why the OS spark version is cheaper than the glow one.
Old 08-01-2014, 09:04 AM
  #977  
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In the US methanol is cheaper than gas, oil is $20 per gallon. It's the quantity of oil that makes no nitro fuel a little more expensive than gas.
Old 09-08-2014, 11:46 PM
  #978  
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I have this engine and am getting ready to run it. Can't find my instructions anywhere but I'm not doing anything with it until I find them. I do remember they said to use nothing but a castor oil/gasoline mix.

Something I've noticed about the carb that concerns me is that the carb can't close all the way. If I back out the throttle stop screw just a little bit then the carb barrel can spin around. There is no in between setting where I can close the carb all the way.

I assume that means that the engine will quit with the carb still partially open.

Unless I find something that states otherwise I am planning on using methanol-free gasoline. Is that a bad idea or should I use just regular pump gas?
Old 09-08-2014, 11:50 PM
  #979  
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Regarding fuel lines. I found some really nice gasoline-safe silicone line at McMaster-Carr. It's expensive but it's as flexible as the stuff we use for glow and it is indeed gasoline proof. I put a piece in a glass jar with some gas/oil mix I had and let it sit there for months. I shook it up every once in a while and it's just fine. I have some in one of my gassers without any problems. But it's about $5.00/foot. In my opinion it's well worth it.

Like silicone you can get it on and off fitting without ripping it to shreds like tygon and it doesn't harden. It's really nice stuff to work with. If anyone is interested I'll find it and post the link. It is opaque though, so in that regard it's different than the stuff we normally use for glow. You can't see the fuel moving through it. Otherwise it feels and behaves the same.
Old 09-09-2014, 01:32 AM
  #980  
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I use %14 castor with the Klotz castor ( less fuss and u know it will mix properly ). If I remember mix it a week before use and shake daily . I think it says to flip it over a 100 times before use but I cant remember much else . Just had a quick look for the instructions but no luck , there here somewhere so get back to me if u need to and I will have another look . Its pretty messy and I give the plane a quick wipe down between flights , also the needle is touchy so a click here and there makes a big difference . Others have used the glow needle with good results . Not sure about the carb but I guess you could pull it apart for a quick look or run as is . VERY IMPORTANT to pull the back plate off and look for swarf . Mine had enough to make another engine and thats written in the instructions as well . Im a big fan of your website so thanks for that , cheers the pope
Old 09-09-2014, 01:45 AM
  #981  
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Thanks for the info. The deal with my instructions is a few months ago I decided to gather all mine up and get them organized. Some are thick manuals so i was going to drill them. I bought several three ring binders to make it all happen.

Then one binder would be all things engine, fuel, starter, etc. related.

Another would be all things radio, onboard gear related, etc.

Well, other things came up so what was more or less well-organized if I had left it as it was is now a huge mess and completely mixed up and I can't find anything.

I have a gallon of Sig castor which is what I planned to use. What about the ethanol free gas?
Old 09-09-2014, 01:58 AM
  #982  
the pope
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Thats where u went wrong trying to keep things neat and tidy ! With the gas , no ethanol is ok , thats what I use . You will be happy when you get it going though and with the 100 flipping thing make sure you use the castor and not just flipping it dry . Thought u would know that but I thought I better add that . Cheers the pope
Old 09-09-2014, 03:05 AM
  #983  
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Originally Posted by CafeenMan
Regarding fuel lines. I found some really nice gasoline-safe silicone line at McMaster-Carr. It's expensive but it's as flexible as the stuff we use for glow and it is indeed gasoline proof. I put a piece in a glass jar with some gas/oil mix I had and let it sit there for months. I shook it up every once in a while and it's just fine. I have some in one of my gassers without any problems. But it's about $5.00/foot. In my opinion it's well worth it.

Like silicone you can get it on and off fitting without ripping it to shreds like tygon and it doesn't harden. It's really nice stuff to work with. If anyone is interested I'll find it and post the link. It is opaque though, so in that regard it's different than the stuff we normally use for glow. You can't see the fuel moving through it. Otherwise it feels and behaves the same.
if you would I'd appreciate it.
Old 09-09-2014, 05:59 AM
  #984  
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Neoprene is good too, and much cheaper. You definitely can't see through it though. A lot of the diesel guys use that. It works for glow too. Sometimes it is nice to see through it, at least the final couple of inches.
Old 09-09-2014, 11:45 AM
  #985  
hllywdb
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I've been using plain old premium pump gas since day one in mine. Never had a problem. I agree with The Pope on the Klotz, sure fire mix and after all this time I don't get any carbon build up to speak of. Plus I find the Klotz doesn't turn your engine "Fox 35 Brown".
Old 09-09-2014, 12:01 PM
  #986  
hllywdb
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Should also mention it's important to follow the manual on the break in on those, it's different than your typical ABC engine. Otherwise you risk blowing a head gasket or worse, bending a rod. Should also note it's easy to flood these, like most gas engines, and electric start on a flodded engine is a no-no. But once broken in an set they are pretty much a no brainer. Mine has become my go to sport flying plane. Fly all day for pennies and they don't seem to be as fickle about temps and humidity. An APC 11X6 for break in and sport flying and a 10X7 for a hotter plane.
Old 09-09-2014, 12:54 PM
  #987  
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It's called Fuel-Resistant Blue Fluorosilicone Rubber Tubing

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/131/=tnhcz9
Old 09-09-2014, 12:56 PM
  #988  
CafeenMan
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The reason I asked about the ethanol free is I already have my cans filled with it including stuff that's not mixed with anything.
Old 09-09-2014, 01:10 PM
  #989  
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By the way, I watch movies on my computer and I already did hundreds and hundreds of flips with this engine well oiled when I bought it late last year while watching a couple. I'll do it some more before I actually run it because, well, why not. It's super tight and feels like there's no oil in it.
Old 09-09-2014, 01:58 PM
  #990  
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Did you check for swarf and if you did did you find any ? Just interested to see if mine was a one off or others have found some in theirs . I had trouble with head gaskets early on but I believe the newer ones had an extra gasket that fixed things . Mines been trouble free for awhile and its something different which I like . Cheers the pope
Old 09-09-2014, 02:30 PM
  #991  
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No, I didn't. In fact, I've never done that with any engine specifically although I've opened some engines before running just out of curiosity. I've never found anything inside. The Novel felt fine. I didn't realize they were known for having any issues until I posted here last night and as I said I did the turning it over bit months ago. I'm sure it's fine and I will open it before running.

I did make a bit of an effort a little bit ago and it won't budge. Any suggestions? I don't have any tools specifically for this and can't find anything that fit's snuggly that doesn't pop right back out.
Old 09-09-2014, 02:40 PM
  #992  
CafeenMan
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I called Jtecrc yesterday for a pitts muffler. They said about $40.

I have an extra Sig Miniplane cowl. My plane is a mid- or should-wing type plane with a pod fuse and an aluminum boom to an inverted tail with trike gear. Basically made up as I go along.

If high wing it will be like the attached photo.

If mid wing then the wing will be low enough so the fuselage extends of the wing and then an open cockpit and wind screen.

I thought about a fantasy plane (high wing version) that was supposed to have a span of 2 miles and be able to carry full size aircraft carriers but still fly on a 2-cylinder engine. Basically the scaly is achieved by having a very tiny windscreen.

But even with my very active imagination that's really pushing it. They Reynolds numbers became so big they became Reynolds letters, blah, blah... whatever I could make up as a back story.

Obviously there's not a lot of area to mount the stab so I'm going with low weight, thick wing and lots of area to keep the speed down.

You can't tell in these photos but there was a balsa plug to give additional glue area and a fillet all around. It was a solid mount. I made this one up as I was going along probably when I was about 19 or 20. It was the tail boom from my American RC Mantis debacle.

I need another Miniplane cowl. It's just a great cowl for all kinds of things. I want to build a delta wing with a fuselage that uses the same cowl. Should be a nice looking plane. Or maybe a swept flying wing. Won't matter. No matter what kind of wing it will look good.

I should contact the fiberglass people and just have them send me a case of them.
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Old 09-09-2014, 02:43 PM
  #993  
CafeenMan
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PS. If any retract manufacturer would get their act together and make just one model of retracts that would retract flush into the side of a fuselage and then make them in standard sizes (.20, ..40, .60, 1.20, etc.) I'd be a very happy guy.

I'm sure a lot of folks would like to have them. Nothing real fancy. Just pull up flush into the side. Maybe make them so the angle of the retracted wheel can be adjusted up to 10 degrees outward or something.
Old 09-09-2014, 02:50 PM
  #994  
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Hi Pope
When I got mine the crank cover was loose and so was the carby.Maybe this was on purpose for some reason.Anyway there was no swarf as far as I could tell.I ran mine in as per instructions and it only took a couple of 4 oz tanks, but I will run it rich in the plane for a while.Incidently, their claim that this engine is much lighter than an average 40 is dubious, mine weighs only slightly less than my OS 40 FSR.It certainly isn't a fuel guzzler though- very economical!
Old 09-09-2014, 02:59 PM
  #995  
CafeenMan
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I don't worry much about engine weight. As long as it's strong for it's weight I'm usually happy. I'm going to put it on a stand before I commit it to a plane. I've watched some YouTube video and nobody seemed to have any problems with it and I haven't seen anything online saying it has problems.

Does your carb close all the way? Mine is open about 1/16". If I back out the throttle stop screw any farther then it completely lets go of the barrel and it can start spinning around. I've never seen a carb like that before. Every other engine with that kind of carb design allows the carb to completely close while still having the screw in far enough to hold the barrel in. The screw has to turn out several more turns before it lets loose, but not this one.

I always set up engines so I can shut them down from the transmitter but I'm concerned this design might not allow this.
Old 09-09-2014, 03:17 PM
  #996  
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I haven't noticed any problem with shutting the throttle but I will check this when I run the engine in the model.
Old 09-09-2014, 03:21 PM
  #997  
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I'd appreciate it. I've messed with it and it really doesn't seem right.

I just got the backplate off without too much difficulty. Nice and clean and oily inside. I put a nice big prop on it and took out the plug. Put in lots of oil and will turn it over some more tonight.

These are just regular turbo plugs, right? I have some NovaRossi turbos so as long as I get the same heat range they'll work or no? Has anyone tried any other plugs? If you're using only Norvel plugs where are you getting them?
Old 09-09-2014, 03:25 PM
  #998  
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Looking at the engine again, I exaggerated. The throttle is open about 1/32" at it's widest and that's as much as I can close it AND have the throttle stop screw in far enough to keep the barrel from spinning around.
Old 09-09-2014, 04:35 PM
  #999  
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Just a thought, make sure the low speed needle isn't in too tight. This will cause the same problem as it will bottom out inside the tube.
As to swarf, I've taken apart a couple dozen Norvels when new and haven't come across anything left inside. I pull the backplate on all new engines just out of habit. Can't remember the last time I found anything but I don't buy any of the knock-off Asian motors.
Old 09-09-2014, 04:44 PM
  #1000  
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If I back out the throttle stop the carb will turn in all the way. The barrel isn't jamming.

You know how a normal throttle stop screw works. You can turn it in and stop the barrel from closing all the way, right? Well I always set mine up so the barrel can close all the way. If you back out the screw far enough you can remove the barrel.

Well this one if you back it out far enough for the barrel to close all the way then it releases the barrel. In fact, it releases the barrel before it's closed all the way.

So if it's designed that way then my hope is that it's because the engine won't run with the throttle closed that far so it's a non-issue. If the engine will run then it's a real problem because it means I can't shut down my engine from the transmitter.

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