Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Don't know if you followed the link I sent to you. But Tower still sells the TT .40 Pro engine & parts. Here's the con rod:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAJBC&P=X

BTW; I ordered a NV .40 GX gasser. Going to lean all over the people on this thread for advice.

CR

GBR2

My Feedback: (1)

I see the OS glow gas engine is using a mixture of gas and 2 cycle oil in a 25 - 30:1 ratio. Just curious how they can do that while the Norvel uses castor at much higher ratio.

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Here's what it sez in the OS 40cc Specs on Tower's site: 25:1 fuel/oil mixture if brand of oil states 50:1 mix

CR

CafeenMan

I did read through that but I guess I didn't put 2+2 together regarding the thunder tiger engine. Thanks.

Don't lean on my about the Norvel though. I haven't run mine. I have some Benol in my amazon shopping cart though.

whiskey29

Hi All,

Greetings.
Can some one guide me how to properly tighten the prop shaft ?
How tight should it be ? Should I put some red threadlock there ?

I have also set the idle screw wrong accidentally when following the manual, instead of setting the idle screw.

Can some one share how should it be set, ?
May be like when the barrel is fully closed, I turn the low end needle clock wise until it stop, and open it for how much ?

I have failed to start the engine today, may be my low end needle was to lean ?

The high end was like 1.5 turn, then i tried 2.5 turn just like the trouble shooting part says, but no luck.

thanks in advance.

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Heh. I thought I had some Benol but it turns out what I have is Super Techniplate, which is 20% Benol. I was mixing E85 ethanol for an ignition ST 3000. Tower sells the Klotz oils & the OS plugs. My next web stop is Tower for Benol & a P3 glow plug.

CR

aspeed

The OS rod has very small needle bearings so it can use less oil. Expensive rod to replace too.

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

You need to read through this thread from the beginning. It gets productive on about page 24, post 591. Look at the video by earlwb. Notice him choking the engine.

The prop shaft doesn't need to be screwed all the way in, according to those who know this engine. Don't put thread lock on it.

Your post is ambiguous about the screws. There is a high speed needle (HS), a low speed needle (LS) and a idle stop screw (IS). The IS needs to be screwed in far enough to engage the slot in the carb's barrel slot; it's not an adjustment. Unscrew the HS & LS needles ~2 1/2 turns from fully in. It ought to start with those settings.

I urge you to read at least the first half of this thread. It will get you up to speed.

If you have little experience with glow engines, I urge you to find a local flying club & ask for some help. The engine guys will jump at the chance to get involved.

CR

whiskey29

Hi Charley,

Thank you very much for the reply and suggestion.
I really appreciate it.
I will scroll trough again trough the pages that you suggested.
I do have experiences with glow engines for quite a while, but this engine gave me confusion.
I think I am just afraid to break it before even using it

I will try again to re set the HS and LS.
With the LS, 2.5 turn, is it from the barrel fully opened or fully closed position ?

About the Idle stop screw, I read the manual wrong,
I haven't run any engine lately that needs tampering the IS, that is why I got it wrong, thinking the manual was talking about the LS instead.

About the prop shaft is, its to my logic that when the engine turns on, it will for the shaft to be tight sicne the engine is turning right and screw was in the other way.
Its just that when I use my starter, ( I hate using starters) it loosen the shaft, may be the engine was starting to flood.

I will post again, to update.

Thanks

aspeed

It is likely squeaky tight because it is new. It will be looser as soon as it runs a bit. That is likely why it is loosening the prop. You can warm up the motor with a hairdryer for the first start and after it runs off the prime it will likely be better. I had a smaller one that I ran the starter backwards for maybe 30 seconds with a good prime for lubrication. It started after without unscrewing the prop.

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Closed. Be gentle.

You were right. It was very flooded. The liquid fuel in the crank case was pumped into the cylinder and locked it up. That's a good thing; it protected itself.

Since you've run glow engines before there's nothing to be worried about. Same engine type, different fuel. No big deal.

Huh! Since I've said that, why have I spent all this $$ on it???

I must be deranged.....

CR

whiskey29

Charley and aspeed, thanks for the replies.

I finally got it ran.

The problem was, I primed it too much. With Nitro it would have worked, but with gasoline and this engine, you need very little. REALLY LITTLE.....
I put 3 drops of fuel using a syringe and finally a jolt, sign of combustion.


I gave a bit more and it finally started.
LS was around 1mm gap at full throttle,
HS was 2.5 but it was too much, I brought it down to around 1 1/4 to make it rev higher.


When starting the first time, since I had the HS at 2.5, I had to keep the barrel around 1/5 to 1/4 opening to make it run, less or more wont do.


So I hope this information useful for others, Having similar looks to nitro engine, different carbs than walbros,
makes the fuel air ratio critical... very very critical I guess.

So I hope that I will be one happy owner
To my surprise I haven't found many people talking about it anywhere.


By the way, come to think about it, I need to adjust the low needle so it will rev a bit lower.
May be after breaking in, and when it will run nice and steady at high RPM I will do that.

Can some one confirm that the LS and HS are sTill more sensitive compared to nitro engine ?
They are not as bad as a converted glow to gas motor, but still, I remmber I had to move the LS very little to make it keep running at lower throttle.

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

whiskey29,

Glad you got it running & glad I was able to help. Sounds like the threads on the needles are coarse. I'll remember that. Now I need to find a 40 - size Ugly Stik.

CR

CafeenMan

Just go to your shop and start cutting wood. An Ugly Stik takes a couple weeks to scratch build. it's the simplest plane there is as far as traditional wood planes go. Just make up an airfoil that looks good or copy one. Cutting the ribs is the worst part. When that's done the rest is simple.

flyingagin

Just go here and resize to fit your needs

Ken

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Cut wood? Get my jig saw out? Build a model? Are you nuts? You never heard of ARFs?

I must see if Sig still kits the Aerosport. The Aerosport was a Stik with a different-shaped vertical stab. I built a 60-size 'Sport for the "Gathering of Eagles" when AMA was launching the Muncie site. I was invited because I was a CD/LM. I still have the wing which I got many of the notable flyers to autograph. I scratched up another wing for it after I got home because everyone was telling me "don't fly it, you might crash it." I keep thinking I ought to offer that wing to the AMA museum. It's hanging on the wall of my shop now. Don't know if they'd care though. A lot of those guys I knew are gone now.

CR

whiskey29

Haha.. yeah.. I still build planes.
I do like ARF for simplicity, nice cowl and especially canopies.

But nothing like building one and fly it.. well I guess building is not every ones hobby.
And not a lot of people build nowadays...

If you are going to build one, try bubbles. http://www.flyelectric.ukgateway.net/bubbles.htm

I build electric ones, it was very light. For the engine one, you need to add a few doubler at the bulkhead.
I put lights and do night flights for fun. I am sure its the only kind in town
may be the country. Sadly not many people build and fly here.

Now that one you can't ARF

Any way, its suited for 46 engines. The bulkhead would fit 6oz tank nicely,
It has a thick wing, simple construction.

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Impressive. Too bad I'm color blind ."Bubbles" in about 55" WS would be about right for the gas .40. I can picture nice round loops with it. OOS in the vertical.

Let's see; 1/4" ply for the FW, 1/8" medium balsa for the fuse, doubled from the wing TE to the FW, hard balsa or the upper & lower skins, I/16" med balsa for the ribs, sheet the LE & TE with light 1/16" balsa. Tail feathers of 1/8" scrap or depron. ought to come in under 4 lbs. It's a light Stik!!!

Hmmm, I have a foam P-39 from Dynaflight...NIB....hmmm.. Naw, it would need retracts....

CR

captinjohn

I just by chance found this thread. Did they ever make the .60 size?

whiskey29

Hi Captin,
I actually ask NV about that and the response was

"GX60 might be produced, but it will not be soon.

Thanks a lot.


Dmitry"

So it would be great to have more size, bigger size.
Too bad NV is no experienced with four stroke,
it would be awesome to have 4-stroke gasser using same technology, It would probably be difficult to keep the glow plug lit every other revolutions

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

USPS delivered my engine yesterday! I had to sign for it.

So, those of you who've flown this engine; what model do you have it in & how does it feel for power?

CR

CafeenMan

It's actually faster to build a Stik without plans if you know what you're doing. I just draw on the wood and start cutting. The only parts I will generally draw is the rib pattern and the rudder/fin because I tend to make mine too small so I'll draw on cardstock, cut it out and check it against the assembled plane (however much is built by that time) and see how it looks.

Photos on this page are my latest that's still not done due to lack of motivation. Knight Stik: http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...oard/index.htm

Rustik:

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/galler...els/rc/rustik/

My Stik 30:

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/galler...rc/my_stik_30/

I'm rebuilding this one for a second time. I broke the fuselage when unloading it from the car so may as well make other improvements while repairing. It's the predecessor of Knight Stik. At this point the model is very well refined. Normal stiks are too long for my liking. These two models are little hot-rods. I can do anything I want to them in the air without anything falling apart including full throttle power dives. No flutter, no snapped wings - I'm happy.

the pope

Hi there Charles , Mine is in a phonex scanner . Unlike some of the experts will tell you , this engine has the power similar to a 40-46 . These so called experts will grab for the calculator and say that this is impossible and its power has to be like a 25 BUT they havent even got one or most likely even seen one run . Get one I dont think you'll be sorry just give the plane a wipe down between flights as its pretty messy but thats 1/2 the fun . Cheers the pope

the pope

Hey there c-man not all of us are naturally gifted like you ! I have enough trouble building with plans , without them would be a disaster . My moto is if it hasnt got straight sides or a flat bottom I forget about them , thats why I like the stiks so much . Cheers the pope

CafeenMan

Pope - I haven't run mine but I got my Benol from Tower the other day (along with a conrod for my Royal .40). I have watched several YouTube's of the engine and it seems to have as much power as any sport .40 out there. I'm really aching to get it in something and fly it.

I did a little spreadsheet a couple weeks ago that will give me the amount of any single component to add to any other component at a specified percentage. I've seen some online but they didn't work like I wanted them to or were too complicated. Mine only works if your fuel is made of two items though so mostly gas/oil mix. It's as simple as can be. I type in the amount of gas I start with. Enter the percentage of oil I want and it tells me how much oil to add and how much mix I end up with.

RCU won't let me attach a spreadsheet. Maybe if I ZIP it I'll be able to but haven't tried it.