earlwb

Yes mounting the engine sideways is a good way to go. I did exactly that with my Hot Knife plane too. Since my plane is a profile type, I put the battery on the other side instead of the fuel tank. But putting the fuel tank on the left side works well too.

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Gee, Earl, you have a loop in the muffler line. Don't you know it will do nothing?

CR

earlwb

The loop happened as I forgot to add a couple of inches of silicon tubing to the vent line at the muffler. The hot exhaust will melt the plastic tubing there. But it doesn't hurt anything in any case. Besides it helps keeps the fuel from dribbling out when the tank is full.

captinjohn

Is this the same engine? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cE3l1zdJcPw

DaOldGuy

Lucky for me, the wing has panels and the Lipo for the RX is inside the wing. Have been flying it a couple years with a TT Pro 36 that is an ounce or so lighter then the NV. Bats glow starter are charging, going to give it another shot at starting. I really need a spinner so the starter works better, pro bro types tend to not like spinners on planks but...

DaOldGuy

The Manual calls for an OSP3 but I have heard mention of a 5, is there a preference or is there a solid working choice most use?

Not having any luck with the first start yet, I should have a couple spare plugs

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

I got a couple of P3s from Tower. Swapped one into my engine just to see & engine runs fine on them but I'm still running the original. Don't know if going hotter would cause preignition as it might with glow.

CR

earlwb

Yes that is it. It is the same engine.

I will have to relook again. I thought it was a P5 glow plug, but maybe my brain had a memory fault.

captinjohn

Earl, nice looking engine. Did Norvel make a engine with a Ceramic sleeve or piston?

earlwb

Yes they did. They still do under the NV-Engines brand nowadays too. The NV-Engine GX-40 has that ceramic like coating on the cylinder too. You have to be aware of it when using some glow plug clips as the coating does not conduct electricity. They coat the cylinder both inside and out with the ceramic coating.

DaOldGuy

I picked up a P5 and P3 Ultra Hot from Tower..... I also noticed that mine has a VERY distinct top dead center, it almost locks at the point when turned slow, is that normal? I have a Sulivan Starter with a 4S1800 Lipo attached and it never struggles, but this motor tends to be tough for it.

earlwb

yes that is normal. The engine is about the same as a ABC engine. The engines use a tapered cylinder that gets smaller at the top than at the bottom. When the engine runs and gets hot the cylinder expands more at the top than it does at the bottom. Thus it maintains compression better than a ringed engine does. Except for the break in instructions, you normally don't want to leave the piston at top dead center as it squeezes out all the oil and may become scratched more or worse sometimes it gets stuck there too.

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

As earlwb explained, the cylinder is tapered. What you feel there when the engine is cold, is called the "pinch." Turn your engine over when it's hot and you'll feel the difference. All ABN, ABC or other non-ringed engines exhibit the pinch to some degree when cold. If you ever are considering buying a used non-ringed engine, feeling the pinch can tell you something about the amount of wear in the cylinder/piston.

CR

captinjohn

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joescottsdale

Thanks to all who have responded regarding my engine troubles. I appreciate it. I apologize that I wasn't able to respond until now. I had not been able to get back to making changes and testing until now. So here is what I changed:

1) took out some foam and was able to lower the tank slightly
2) realized I was using the "large" size fuel line and switched it out to the smaller size
3) checked the level of the piston on downstroke and confirmed that it does go flush with the exhaust port. So I don't think I have a bent rod.

I was able to get the engine to start better than before with these changes but could not get the rpms to ramp up and engine would cut out after a few minutes of running with the glow starter attached.

One thing I noticed is that there is oil or fluid that collects on the head after running. Almost as if there is a leak. I checked all the bolts and the tightness of the glow plug and everything seems fine. A previous post mentioned that maybe the head gasket has blown. I'm not sure how I would check for that and how it should be fixed. This seems like a stupid question, but my glow plug does not have a washer, should it?

I'm about ready to pull the engine and put on a test stand (which I don't have) to see how it runs there and isolate the problem.

With respect to the loop and fuel siphoning, I did shorten the loop for the muffler. That is fine, sometimes fuel is getting in there but the muffler pressure pushes it back into the tank. As for the carb, I think there is some siphoning occuring there at times, but have been starting the engine upright to just see if I can get it to run. I think the suggestions to raise the engine on the firewall are legit but would like to make sure I don't have an engine problem first.

Thanks for all the help.

earlwb

The model engines tend to spit fuel out of the intake or carburetor. The more aggressive the port timing the more spitting occurs. It isn't anything to worry about. It merely makes the engine a bit more messy. Now then a new engine being broken in and running extra rich may spit more than when it is broken in good and running with a more optimum air to fuel ratio.

Yeah running the engine inverted is something that I don't think any of us has done. So you are pioneering in this case. If you have the room for it, maybe mounting the engine inverted at a 45 or so degree angle. That is to get the glow plug away from being the lowest point inside the engine. Oil and fuel residues and stuff may be causing the glow element to cool off and thus getting quenched out. On my plane I mounted the engine on its side at a 90 degree angle. But I think some angle other than straight down and between 90 degrees would work too.

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

No! The seal area is the beveled bottom edge of the plug, which mates to a corresponding beveled edge in the head.

CR

earlwb

yes that is correct, the Turbo and Nelson glow plugs do not use a washer. These types of glow plugs seal at the bottom of the plug hole. The glow plug becomes part of the combustion chamber making for a better combustion chamber shape. Thus you get a little more performance out of the engine with these types of glow plugs.

the pope

Dont rule out a blown head gasket . There for sale and I got one when I bought my engine . You could also make one with a little effort . Cheers the pope
http://www.nvengines.com/index.php?p...mart&Itemid=67

Billsky

My Feedback: (37)

How did you get it to idle that well? I have a few of the GX-40 and they all give me idle problems. What prop size are you running on the one on you tube?

hllywdb

Once they break in they idle smooth. I had to adjust the servo throw to get them to shut off from the radio. I tend to adjust the idle a little rich to get a good transition, then adjust the idle speed.Once broken in good, I never have to touch the idle mixture from winter through summer.

DaOldGuy

Bill stopped by today since I had not got mine to start, here are some thoughts.
Manual says 1.5 to 2 turns on the HS needle... Also I have heard it said that the motor floods easy.... Oh yeah, I know why. Bill cranks it back to 1.25 turns and it fires for the first time ever. We played with a new P3 for a bit, then I popped in a P5 and that seemed to improve things. I tried to get it to idle at 7500 since the manual had made reference to running at the speed for a spell but It just does not want to hold an idle that low yet.

I have to say, silly think has some power even with the old Master Air screw I have on it from break in.

The more fuel run through it, it seems to improve and I plan to run a 6 ounce tank a evening, to see if it keeps getting better.

Is this really the trick to getting this motor to operate, bench run it until happy? How much fuel are you guys having to put through it to get a respectable idle? I am running the recommended oil and mix with 93 Octane ethanol free.

Joescottdale.... I cant image the struggle of having it inverted would bring, I would say break in on a stand until its stable would be good time spent.

the pope

I never had any issues in getting mine to run . I did the 100 flip thingy they recommend and its fine . Does flood easy but its still fine to operate . I just went by the book and once I had a handle on the head shimsits all good and has been fine since . Cheers the pope

DaOldGuy

Um... Help me out here... is there something needing done to the "head shimsits" that I am not aware of?

earlwb

I only bench ran mine to get familiar with it and to adjust it some. I think I only ran about three tanks of fuel through it tinkering. Then I was satisfied that it would work in the plane. Since the plane is 3D stunt type of plane, you fly it slow a lot. So the engine didn't get run hard like that. Just short runs at full throttle to gain altitude, etc.