Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Gee, maybe I should put softer con rods in all my other engines, eh?

CR

hsukaria

Well, the GX-40 is "special".

the pope

I think that running too rich is a lame excuse to shift the blame to the user . Shame on them . If it needs an extra shim why dont the factory do it ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ???????

hsukaria

Because it is "special". I will try it again, but there should have clear warnings not to run it rich.

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

I agree and also warnings not to over prime.

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

That business about over priming causing the piston to freeze against the aluminum oxide face of the cylinder is REAL. Running rich is POISON to this kind of engine. Not good for any ABC/ABN engine, but poison for a Norvel.

For the Norvel, or any ABC/ABN engine, the very first run should have the engine dialed in from decidedly rich, to where you have a decidedly two stroke sound. Back off a hair to where you hear a miss every few seconds. Lean it out a click to where it takes longer to hear a miss. JUST barely lean but not full out lean for best power. DO this within the first minute or two or your lean for best power will instantly reduce your engine’s potential mileage drastically. The Norvel is particularly vulnerable. Just to add to the misery, some Norvels are fit much tighter than others.

Remember the LiteMachines helicopter? They used Cox engines at first but then turned to the Norvel. Very early ones were of ABN construction. Then they went to the Revlite, anodized cylinder design. And those engines came with a VERY tight fit. I had a few and I had to be very careful breaking them in. Imagine how many bent rods and busted cranks the heli fliers endured. Some years later, Litemachines offered Norvel’s .074 and at one point was selling off the engine for a very good price as they were discontinuing making helicopters. I got me a half dozen of them and all of them were fit with ZERO pinch at TDC. No run in or break in required. Despite that, these were VERY strong runners. How that worked was the fact that the anodized surface has PORES that hold oil. In this case, over priming was far less of a problem.

What if you had a GX .40 with such a fit. Zero pinch at TDC but still nice snap over when cold. I had a fixed compression, Norvel .15 on diesel just exactly like that. And yet, one or two drops of prime into the intake and that engine would fire off and run on the first flip, EVERY SINGLE TIME. It had NO pinch at TDC, barely snapped over when cold and did nothing of the sort when hot.

Kerosene has an oily feel and has lubricating characteristics all on it’s own. With 20% oil added to the mix, all it took for good compression seal was the oil trapped in the pores of the anodized surface of the cylinder. Same with the Litemachines .074s.


Here you can get a good feel for the differences in our fuels. Glow, gasoline and diesel. Be mindful that to the Brits, kerosene is called paraffin. http://modelenginenews.org/faq/fuels.html

Running gas on glow is problematic.

Gasoline’s very nature is to NOT ignite under compression alone. Gasoline is lazy and does not want to go to work unless someone lights a fire under it. That someone is a sparkplug. Ignition timing can be applied very precisely.

Gasoline has a high octane rating,,, octane meaning NOT igniting under compression alone.

Diesel has a high CETANE rating which means igniting due to compression alone.

Glow had been called a modified form of diesel combustion. The glow plug is lit full time, just waiting for that catalytic action in the presence of Methanol. Ignition timing is broad and depends on the correct compression ratio,,, just like diesel. Over compress and ignition is too early and that’s not good. Under compress and power is lost.

With diesel, you are dependent on precise compression to start and to run well. This is why you need a means to adjust the compression on the fly. See the exception above and that’s why I’m such a fan of dieselized Norvels.

When we try to run an engine using gas and using a glow plug for ignition, you have a Tasmanian Devil on your hands. Has anyone added a bit of methanol to the fuel to allow the glow plug to do it’s job properly? Not 30 or 40% but just say, 5%. Not enough to say it’s a blend, but just enough for that catalytic action to do its work.

Or, how about this. The old standby, classic mix for diesel was 30/30/30. Yes, 30% oil, kerosene and ether, equally. Ether is very “dry”, 30% oil is a LOT and kerosene itself has lubricating properties. Has anyone tried a gas blend with 30% oil? Has anyone tried Enya’s, seemingly special oil for their big gasser? I’m talking about on the GX .40, of course.

This started as a simple post regarding a stronger rod, but in the search for that, I came across the link that you see above. MUCH to learn and ponder. I can’t wait for good weather to come, the juices are flowing.

The rod comes from GMS. The label says, “GMEG2860” and beneath that, “401040 Conrod 40 ABC”. It’s robust, built like a rod SHOULD and is bushed both ends. My notes on it says that it’s “tall” by three base gaskets. I don’t remember if that means add two gaskets or three. I do recall that I made that determination by using a timing wheel. How much difference one gasket makes is a good question but be warned that it’s a hair longer than the stock rod.

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

How about adding a little acetone? C:\Users\Andy\Desktop\New folder (2)\Acetone In Fuel Said to Increase Mileage.mht

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[h=1]Acetone In Fuel Said to Increase Mileage[/h] Readily-available chemical added to gas tank in small proportion improves the fuel's ability to vaporize completely by reducing the surface tension that inhibits vaporization of some fuel droplets.
by Louis LaPointe
Adapted by Sterling D. Allan and Mary-Sue Haliburton
with LaPointe's permission for Pure Energy Systems News
See also, Acetone Data• FAQ (includes possible negative effects)
Acetone (CH[SUB]3[/SUB]COCH[SUB]3[/SUB]) is a product that can be purchased inexpensively in most locations around the world, such as in the common hardware, auto parts, or drug store. Added to the fuel tank in tiny amounts, acetone aids in the vaporization of the gasoline or diesel, increasing fuel efficiency, engine longevity, and performance -- as well as reducing hydrocarbon emissions.
How it Works
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Complete vaporization of fuel is far from perfect in today's cars and trucks. A certain amount of residual fuel in most engines remains liquid in the hot chamber. In order to be fully combusted, the fuel must be fully vaporized.
Surface tension presents an obstacle to vaporization. For instance the energy barrier from surface tension can sometimes force water to reach 300 degrees Fahrenheit before it vaporizes. Similarly with gasoline.
Acetone drastically reduces the surface tension. Most fuel molecules are sluggish with respect to their natural frequency. Acetone has an inherent molecular vibration that "stirs up" the fuel molecules, to break the surface tension. This results in a more complete vaporization with other factors remaining the same. More complete vaporization means less wasted fuel, hence the increased gas mileage from the increased thermal efficiency.
That excess fuel was formerly wasted past the rings or sent out the tailpipe but when mixed with acetone it gets burned, though the engine still thinks it is running straight gas.
Acetone allows gasoline to behave more like the ideal automotive fuel which is PROPANE. The degree of improved mileage depends on how much unburned fuel you are presently wasting. You might gain 15 to 35-percent better economy from the use of acetone. Sometimes even more.
How Much to Use
Add in tiny amounts from about one part per 5000 to one part per 3000, depending on the vehicle -- just a few ounces per ten gallons of gas. This comes to between 0.0003 % to 0.0025 % acetone maximum or approximately 1/15th of one-percent. Note that is around .78 cc per liter or one ounce per 10 gallons. Not more than three oz. per 10 gallons.
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[TD]One fluid ounce (US) is equal to 29 milliliters. Ergo, a 100 ml. graduated cylinder would be a suitable choice for this project.

Ten gallons (US) = 40 liters
(As there are three zeroes after the decimal point before you get to any numerals, I think that can be ignored to make the numbers easier.)

Note that the UK/Canada old imperial system is not the same as US imperial measurements:

• Gallons (UK)
  A British imperial capacity measure (liquid or dry) equal to 4 quarts or 4.545 liters.
• Gallons (US)
  United States liquid unit equal to 4 quarts or 3.785 liters.

-- Mary-Sue Haliburton, PESN
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After you first find the best gasoline in your area, then try the acetone amount for your car per ten gallons, and if you are happy with your newfound mileage, you might want to try stopping the use of acetone for a couple of tanks. Watch the drop in mileage. It will amaze you. That reverse technique is one of the biggest eye openers concerning the use of acetone in fuel.
In a 10-gallon tank of gasoline, use one to three ounces of pure acetone to obtain excellent mileage improvements. In a ten-gallon tank of diesel fuel, use from 1 to 2 ounces of acetone. Performance goes up too. Use about a half-teaspoon of acetone in the fuel tank of a 4-cycle lawnmower or snowblower. Or you can apply it with an eyedropper.
Where to Get Acetone
The pure acetone label is the only additive suggested and is easily available from most drug stores in 16-ounce plastic bottles and in one-gallon containers from some large fleet farm supply stores. But any acetone source is better than none. Containers labeled acetonefrom a hardware store are usually okay and pure enough to put in your fuel. We prefer cans or bottles that say 100-percent pure. The acetone in gallons or pints we get from Fleet Farm are labeled 100 % pure. The bottles from Walgreen say 100 % pure. Never use solvents such as paint thinners or unknown stuff in your gas. Toluene, benzene and xylene have been okay if they are pure but may not raise mileage except when mixed with acetone. However the aromatics also raise octane.
Adding Acetone to Your Tank
When you fill up with fuel, note the number of gallons added, then calculate the right amount of acetone to add. Less is more. Remember all gasoline is different. Some will work better than others in the presence of acetone which is strictly a vaporization tool, rather than a fuel additive that alters combustion. The car computer still thinks it is running straight gasoline. None of your settings are altered. None of your engine parts are affected. Check out ScanGauge for an inexpensive MPG device.
Some stores sell acetone in metal cans of various sizes, which are safe to keep indoors. However, it is difficult to pour from these cans, which have a flat top and short neck from which spillage is inevitable. In any case, while handling acetone, you should be wearing rubber gloves.

One option is to get a small graduated cylinder (available from science supplies store or some pharmacies). The small ones have larger intervals between markings so that it is easier to fill them to the level desired. The narrow cylinder can be held to the neck of the can to catch all drips. Then from the cylinder you can pour neatly into the tank. The small pouring spout suitable for laboratories prevents drips onto the paint.

Being etched with neat lines at each milliliter, these graduated cylinders are also good for measuring precise amounts -- in ounces or milliliters.
Additional Benefits
In addition to increased mileage acetone added to fuel boasts other benefits such as increased power, engine life, and performance. Less unburned fuel going past the rings keeps the rings and engine oil in far better condition.
A tiny bit of acetone in diesel fuel can stop the black smoke when the rack is all the way at full throttle. You will notice that the exhaust soot will be greatly reduced and your truck or car runs smoother.
Acetone can reduce hydrocarbon emissions up to 60 percent. In some older cars, the HC readings with acetone in a 1986 GMC went from 440 PPM to 195, as just one example. Though mileage gains taper off with too much acetone, hydrocarbon emissions are nevertheless greatly reduced. Pure acetone is an extremely clean burning fuel that burns in air with a pretty blue, smokeless flame.
Acetone reduces the formation of water-ice crystals in below-zero weather which can damage the fuel filter. Change that fuel filter every year to protect injectors.
There are no known bad effects and every good reason to use acetone in your fuel. I have never seen a problem with acetone, and I have used ACETONE in gasoline and diesel fuel and in jet fuel (JP-4) for 50 years. I have rigorously tested fuels independently (with burns all over me) and am considered an authority on this important subject.
Cautions
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[TD]Acetone is known to deteriorate cheap plastics and other substances. While the components in a car's fuel system should be of high quality, and thus immune to any deleterious effects from exposure to acetone, be aware that "ideal" is not always the case in practice. Be advised that not all systems have been tested against acetone. Until such thorough testing has been accomplished and certified by a accredited authority, you assume your own liability for experimentally testing acetone in your particular system.[/TD]
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Keep acetone away from painted surfaces, such as the paint on your car under the gas tank opening. Acetone is the key ingredient in paint remover. In addition to paint, fuels, including acetone, gasoline alone can also dissolve asphalt and most plastics.
Never allow skin contact with it. It may damage clothing as well. Don't breathe it. Keep children away from all dangerous chemicals. Read the directions on the container.
Acetone is a highly flammable liquid, as is gasoline. Do not expose it near a flame or spark. Acetone should be stored outside, with proper ventilation, not inside your house. Gasoline and/or acetone will dissolve cheap plastics, so be sure the container you store it in will not deteriorate. Read all the precautions on the labels.
No Issues with the Engine Parts
I have soaked carburetor parts in acetone for months and even years to see if there is any deterioration. Any parts made to run with gasoline will work with acetone just fine. I presently have parts soaking in 1, 2, 5, and 10 % acetone/gasoline mixes as well as just gasoline. That is 20 to 200 times too much just to be sure. The 30R7 rated parts are in perfect condition. All my tests have been run with Texaco gasoline. I tested the gas stations in my area to FIRST find the best gasoline BEFORE putting acetone in the tank. But I have no idea from a pragmatic view what other gasolines do except that when I attempt to use them, my MPG drops like a rock. So for purely monetary reasons, I run the best available gasoline. When my dyno is built this summer, I will test all the gasolines in my area and publish the results on the web. I hear from engineers out West that Chevron gas is very good. I used it and it was fine during trips to California. I attach more credence to engineers who report things of interest to me because of their training and knowledge of testing methods. You may want to look up Science and Testing Methods in my site.
Contrast with Alcohol
In contrast, alcohol has been shown to be corrosive in an engine, yet they put THAT into gasoline. Alcohol in general is anti-mileage. Alcohol is no good in fuels. In Brazil, millions of engines and fuel systems were ruined by alcohol. Yet they are talking of doubling the amount of alcohol in gasoline.
Furthermore, alcohol increases surface tension, producing the opposite effect from acetone. Alcohol in fuel attracts water. This hurts mileage because water acts like a fire extinguisher. Some cars may run badly and even quit due to the incombustible nature of the water-laden fuel. We know of a dozen cars that recently stopped running due to water in the alcohol and gas mixture. In my Neon, it frequently has cut the MPG in half on trips when I take pot luck at the pump.
In below-zero weather, the water and alcohol can form abrasive, icy particles that may damage fuel pumps and clog injectors.
Has Not Been Warmly Received
Questions asked of someone in the petroleum industry regarding ACETONE will often automatically trigger a string of negative reactions and perhaps false assertions. We may have heard them all. The mere mention of this additive represents such a threat to oil profits that you may get fabricated denials against the successful use of acetone in fuels.
The author has never found any valid reason for not using acetone in gasoline or diesel fuel. Plus it takes such a tiny amount to work. No wonder they fear this additive.
Political Action
You might Email this article to your government representative. After sufficient data has been collected, and that data supports the conclusions presented here, ACETONE should be ordered by Federal Law to be present in all fuels. While you're at it, request that vehicles be equipped with a MPG read-out to make it easier for consumers to know what is and is not working to improve their mileage.
If You Want to Do Independent Testing
For those of you who like to see the data yourself, there is a great little device available to check your exact gas mileage and more. See ScanGauge for an instrument that fits any car 1996 or newer. And some 1995 models. It measures your real-time MPG, inlet and coolant temperatures and many more details as you drive. This inexpensive tool should end a lot of debate over what works for mileage and what does not. We use the TRIP function to average the MPG at a steady 50 MPH both ways.
Since the fuel from every gas station is different from the next, the MPG performance will also vary. Then there exist a wide variety of additive choices at the terminals that affect quality. Also other variables in the cars performance such as warm external temperature versus cold external temperature, using the AC or not, headlights or not, incline of drive, etc. Try to eliminate as many of these variable as possible in your comparative testing.
Be consistent where you buy your gasoline because different gasolines vary tremendously. The best gas and the worst gas in your neighborhood will likely have a 30-percent spread in mileage. Same for diesel fuel. In my experience with repeated test results, I found that Texaco, Chevron and Canadian Shell deliver excellent gasoline mileage. Try to keep down the number of variables wherever you gas up by using the same station, same pump, same grade or same octane before testing. This is important.
Incidentally, in almost all cases, the lowest octane is best for mileage. Most modern vehicles do not have high enough compression to justify using high octane fuels. The testing indicates best mileage is usually obtained with 85 or 87 octane gasoline. Too much octane causes a loss of power and economy. BUT too little octane causes the same things plus knocking. Listen carefully to your engine for tell-tale knocks or clicks when you start out from a light. The best mileage points to the correct octane when the engine is properly tuned. See your owners manual.
The ScanGauge enables you to notice differences and then check variations with and without acetone added in various proportions. Roughly 1/20 to 1/10 of one percent. On the dyno I never exceeded 1/4 of a percent. There was no point.
Report Your Findings
PES Network Inc. has created an index page at PESWiki where you can report your findings. PESWiki is a publicly editable website where you can post a summary of your results, or create a full page, with all the details you wish to report, with images and links to video or spreadsheet data.
Other Additives Exist
There are of course other additives that improve mileage (which also have had less than a favorable reception by the petroleum industry). Certain octane improvers for example also aid mileage. We recently proved that Carb Medic from Gunk can raise mileage when 3 oz. are used with 2 oz. of acetone per 10 gallons of gasoline, even in cold weather. Acetone seems to help cars start easier in winter.
Many products claiming to improve mileage are expensive and do not really help much. Others are fakes. For instance, a SMOOTH flow of air into a carburetor or injector is far better for mileage than turbulent air. Turbulence is bad. Yet many people deliberately introduce turbulent air into their engines. There are many silly myths floating around the car industry to fool the average person. Another is that cold intake air improves mileage. NO. Warm air improves mileage.
Test for yourself. Take a mileage check for each and every tank of gas or diesel fuel like we do. Your actual mileage is NOT that of a single tank full but the average of perhaps five tanks. To be accurate, you should not miss any checks. This takes discipline to get reliable results. Someday your car will do it for you with a factory MPG gauge on the dash. But for now, YOU ought to keep tabs on your mileage for all our sakes.
# # #

SOURCES
The above story was adapted with permission from a story reported at:
http://www.lubedev.com/smartgas/additive.htm
[HR][/HR] [h=2]Follow-up[/h] From: Louis LaPointe
March 19, 2005
Something that might be added:
In early 2004, a SmartGas reader in New York State filled three bottles with: pure acetone, part acetone/part gasoline and straight gasoline. Into these he placed O-rings, pump diaphragms, plastic fittings, hose parts and other neoprene/n-buna stuff. He duped my experiments from back in the 50s. Months later he told me the pure acetone bottle was slightly darkened and some vinyl parts swelled. Dave had carefully marked all the parts beforehand. He dried the parts to mike them again and noted after six months that the growth was about two-percent to five-percent in the bottles with gasoline, which was well within limits. Almost unnoticeable. He put the stuff back into the respective bottles where it may still be today. Dave has a background in physics and engineering. I suggest testing parts as mentioned above, in 1, 2, 5, and 10 % mixes of gasoline and acetone. This is up to 200 times more concentrated than what we use in real life. No sense being ridiculous.
He believes that everyone should do their own testing and not listen to the prejudiced opinions or words of others. There is way too much misinformation out there.
When using acetone, I often add one of several other mileage additives into my 16 oz. Walgreen's plastic acetone bottle which stays in the trunk so as not to carry a large quantity container in case I get rear-ended. I am building a dyno facility to further test all the mileage additives and get perfect mixture figures to appear on the site this summer, I hope. Meanwhile the ScanGauge is being used daily by numerous persons across the U.S. running acetone and various carefully devised mixes and lubricants. Some oils can improve mileage substantially, notably Torco Oil.
Using the ScanGauge at 50MPH, my best mileage was 48-52 in my Neon a few weeks ago. Then I stopped the acetone to do some reverse testing. The next four tanks of the same Texaco gas showed 42-43, 37-38, 33-34, 30-31. No acetone when each tank was filled at half-full. The drop was about 20 MPG overall. Recent tests at a steady 50 MPH show 61-63 MPG in the Neon. People report OVER 62 MPG in Toyota Prius vehicles with a tiny bit of acetone in the gas. The other person with me each time wrote down the results. Single source reporting is not a good idea.
Clear thinking guys want us to get off the Middle Eastern Oil. It is a national crisis. But to confirm this specific additive takes procedural knowledge, not undisciplined views or flash opinions. That makes engineers the best source of information of what goes on out there. The less controversy the better, if possible.
I finished a science article on the SmartGas.net site--how to go about testing. It concerns induction and the Scientific Method.
Thanks to all, Lou LaPointe
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[h=2]See also[/h]

• Fuel Economy > Acetone as a Fuel Additive - project index at PESWiki for reporting data from actual road tests using acetone.
  • FAQ - What does acetone do to the fuel system components? How much do I add? Will it hurt me? How does it effect performance? (PESWiki)
  • Lubricity of Acetone in Fuel; Ester's Solution - Acetone's positive results in mileage, idle, emissions, power, come in part from its engine cleaning effect, removing the carbon build-up. Does acetone degrade lubricity, creating long-term wear issues? Data from years of acetone use do not show unusual wear. Esters purported to afford added protection. (PESN; April 13, 2005)

• Pure Energy Systems News
• This Week in Free Energy™ - Weekly five minute blurb.

Page posted by Sterling D. Allan March 17, 2005
Last updated December 26, 2007
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aspeed

Wow, that is a lot of reading.Some guys were using a gas/glow mix of 1/3 glow fuel and 2/3 gasoline (premix?) This was mostly on weedwacker motors in quarter scale planes early on. It saved the weight of the igniton components. A lot of experimentation was done at the time. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/engi...-glow-how.html I used to put a little acetone in my cars a while ago, but did not see a measureable difference. I kind of forgot to measure accurately too, as it would only be accurate on a long trip. Acetone is not cheap either.

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

The instructions tell you to run it at a rich 2-stroke for break in. In some respects the instructions are a can of worms.

CR

the pope

So running it rich is a no no . I guess leaning it out is a no no too cause thats when my crank pin blew and dont say it must have hydro before . I always turn my engines over before I start them . They are a good engine if u dont try and run them though !

hsukaria

For that reason I concluded that these engines should be broken-in in the nitro configuration since that is easier to tune and has lower cylinder pressure and consequently less load on the conrod and crank. Once well broken in, it would be easier to run it with gas since there are fewer variables to deal with. That's my theory anyways.

the pope

Hi there husky , as Ive said before mine had over 2L of fuel which should be well and truly broken in and thats quite a bit of running considering how little fuel it uses . I wonder if maybe they had quality control with hardening of the crank or rod to crankpin clearance being off a bit . Who knows not this little black duck .

hsukaria

You might be right. I had about 1.5 liters through it when I decided to lean it a bit more when the crankpin let loose. So maybe my theory doesn't hold up, eh?

modelaircrafter

Some time in November a computer meltdown led me to buying a new C drive and a try at cloning the old one to the new one. A week later, I was up and running but could not log in to RCU. So I rejoined with a new name. But then, for some reason, I COULD log in with my old name.

I had a major issue with my online banking today and they had me clear all my auto features including passwords. Since I joined RCU some 15 years ago, I couldn't remember my password and trying to retrieve it became hopeless.

So AndyW has become modelaircrafter. I may also change my YouTube name just to be consistent and to more reflect what my channel is about.

modelaircrafter

I agree to both statements, but rich, two stroke can be misleading. JUST lean with a miss now and again is the way I would say it.

modelaircrafter

Catch 22. Your last comment had me laughing.

modelaircrafter

Agreed, I always break them in before converting to diesel.

modelaircrafter

As I mentioned, I bought out all of Sig's returns just for the parts. Only the .40s had busted crankpins. As I recall, there were 7 .40s and three of them had the pins snapped off.

modelaircrafter

[QUOTE=hsukaria;12302497]The concern here is that if you still have the hydrolock issue and replace the conrod with a stronger one, you will break off the crankpin instead like what happened to me and the pope.[/QUO

As I go over the latest posts, who came up with the hydrolock expression? It's Hydraulic lock. This can happen with an over prime and loading the crankcase with excess prime. This can happen with ANY engine that has been over primed. Generally, this happens with vintage diesels. And ONLY when a starter is used after the engine won't start with hand starting. Most of the ether is gone (high cetane) and only the lower cetane kero and oil is left. Out of frustration, even the diesel expert may reach for the starter and break something.

Yes, hydraulic lock can happen with a Norvel, GX.40 all too easily. After all, glow ignition depends on methanol for its catalytic action. So with no methanol, HOW IN THE HECK CAN GAS WORK AT ALL WITH A GLOW PLUG? In 50 years of running many, many brands and sizes of engines, broken pins are VERY low on the irritating incident, scale.


So with THAT problem and difficult starting, it's all too easy to get hydraulic lock. IT IS NOT THE FAULT OF THE OPERATOR. It's the fault of the concept of running gas on glow. ON TOP OF THAT, the anodized cylinder issue is VERY REAL and unique ONLY to Norvels. And ADDS to the issue of excess pressure on the rod pin.


Add high compression to a wimpy rod THAT WAS ORIGINALLY DESIGNED FOR THE LESS RIGOROUS DEMANDS OF GLOW, and is it any wonder that pins break.

With diesel and with an understanding of diesel operation, and applying proper techniques, you will likely not ever encounter broken pins. Rods, now that's another issue. A rod designed from the outset to run on glow is NOT suited to run on such high compression as gas or glow demands.

Yes, you can get a bad c/shaft and rod and it'll break even on glow. I have three, broken crankpins but I can only assume that they were run on glow.

So all the troubles with the GX .40 are a COMBINATION of factors.

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Andy, you have some mutually exclusive statements in your latest rant. What were you Smoking?

CR

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Guys,

When I sent my GX .40 to the NV factory, I removed the carb and sent it in a small ziplock bag. When it came back the carb was on the engine but the HS needle (which they reportedly replaced) was in the zip bag along with a copper head shim, which looks used. I can only suppose they took one shim out of the engine. The techs said there was nothing wrong with the engine but they obviously took out a shim & replaced the HS needle. So much for their veracity.

I've been looking at the fuel mixes as stated in the instructions. In the prose part the instructions say to use 14-15% oil in the gas. Later, the Fuel Mix Guide says to mix a gallon of fuel, mix 18 oz castor oil with 110 oz of gas. well, 18/110 = 16.36% ! Argh! The instruction say 14% - 15% oil in one place but over 16% in another. Big deal, you say? Well, read on.

The problem I had with my GX .40 was that it would stop running after a couple of minutes. Choke it and it would restart but quit in a minute or so. Let it cool down and it would start up readily but quit after a couple of minutes. I was using 92 octane gas & at least 14% Benol. Wouldn't it be the sh*ts if the only problem was that I didn't have quite enough oil in the gas?

Guess I'll find out... I'll mix up some new fuel and see.

CR

hsukaria

It's is actually 18/128=14%=(1:6). It is all consistently around 14%.

aspeed

It is sounding to me like it is just running too hot. maybe a few more fins on the head or cylinder. I had a Rossi that broke a crankpin which I thought was from running too small of a prop, which could be. The piped motors always seem to run lean as well. Upon inspection, the broken pin was scored and blue. When I looked at all the other cranks, they were all scored too. An accident waiting to happen. I think there needs to be more clearance on the rod and crankpin, and a larger oiling hole in the rod. Maybe more oil wouldn't hurt either, as well as more fins, or a combo of some or all of these. It is known that gas runs hotter than methanol. I have noticed on the Norvel .074 that the cylinder expands a lot more than most other motors when hot, or more accurately shrinks when too cold, as I found when starting a motor at the freezing point. It would not turn over outside at all, but was very normal inside.

hsukaria

When the crankpin on my GX-40 broke off, it was a clean break with no signs of overheating or scraping. The surface of the break was smooth. So to me it looks like too much mechanical stress on the crankpin from the higher loads of running gas (or defective build). But more lubrication on it will always help.

I also remember that the exhaust was extremely oily. I don't think that the engine overall was lacking any oil. I used to get a huge oil puddle on the plane after every flight. It would easily clean off but it was more oily than most engines I dealt with except the small engines like the 15-size engines.

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Yup, if you look at 18 as a % of total volume. There is a discussion about this earlier in the thread. I found it all kind of slippery.

CR