Bocajuniors55

Its been 6 years since I was last in the hobby-ive forgotten a few things to say the least. I have a .46 OS FX engine that has been sitting since 2005 in my garage. It ran perfect with low hours last time I used it. Any steps I should take before I attempt a restart of it soon? Please use simple terminology and/or definitions as it has been a while since I was last involved. I'm excited to be getting back in!

AMB

Take the backplate off soak in kerosene for a couple of days. that will loosen ant dried or gum on bearings then just shake out put backplate on, remove plug before doing this procedure drain and shake out kero, then put plug and backplate back and run it martin

you can also give it a good spray inside of WD 40 before putting back the back plate and plug and flip a few times

Bocajuniors55

Thanks. Accomplish this procedure with carb installed correct? Do I need to "brush" or agitate anything?

AMB

If the carb barrel moves NO a squirt of WD 40 down the intake, rotate barrel, put a piece of fuel line on the fuel nipple and blow thru it to check for no clogs martin
then should be ready to go martin forgot check that glow plug lights before putting back in

1QwkSport2.5r

Kerosene is petroleum based!!! Your 46FX runs on glow fuel. Use the fuel that was originally ran in the engine to remove the old oil crud. The castor and synthetic oils will not dissolve in kerosene.

If th engine turns over, at most I would disassemble the carb and soak/clean in glow fuel. Reassemble and run the engine. If the engine turns over with a gritty feel, replace the bearings before running the engine. RCBearings.com is the best place around for bearings.

Kerosene works great in model Diesel engines, but not glow engines. WD40 is bad news in a model engine for many reasons, mainly it's attraction to loosen rust which then churns through the engine.

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

OS recommend kerosene as a flushing solvent for gummed up engines.

Provided is is drained out before use their is no issue.

countilaw

It's getting to the point that you can't trust any information you get in the forums. Everything that was advised was WRONG ! ! !

10wksport gave the correct information.


Frank

AMB

One of my OS instruction sheets reads if engine to be stored for a long time soak in kerosene, I agree on the WD 40 loosening rust, good thing just rinse engine with glow fuel
if bearings just griity not rusty they will clean up, and yes if rusty will need to be replaced
I have several 4 strks that after last run on glow ran on model diesel fuel plug lit, took out all nitrp and alcohol thus no moisture or acid buildup
several years later no issues no bad bearings stuck valves etc, thats my procedure for 2 or 4 strk the diesel fuel is the the after run protection never any issues
That is model diesel fuel, ether,kero,castor oil not the #2 pump diesel martin

AMB

Do not want to raise an issue but siding with Fiery on this one we both run diesel and glow MARTIN

1QwkSport2.5r

Well, that goes to show just how intelligent their owners manual writers and/or engineers are. Use a solvent that is incompatible with the oils the engine is operated with.

[&:][:@]

Good thing I don't buy OS.

I run all glow and provided I use no synthetic oil in my fuel, I have no rust or corrosion issues. I run my engines dry and rarely use any after run treatment.

AMB

THE LUBE IN OUR MODEL ENGINES AR THE SAME CASTOR OR CASTOR/SYN COMBINED WHETHER GLOW OR DIESEL IF CONCERNED ABOUT KERO JUST RINSE WITH GLOW FUEL

regards martin

AMB

Are you running FAI formula 80% alcohol 20% castor no nitro?? martin


very common in Europe Nitro very expensive or not available n some areas

1QwkSport2.5r

0-5% nitro in aero engines, 20-25% nitro in car engines. The car engines are all ABC, my aero engines are iron/steel, AAC, ABN, and ringed.

Don't forget that the only reason castor and PAG synthetics mix with kerosene is the Diethyl Ether. Try mixing castor with kerosene without ether. Benol is a modified castor, which is excluded from my argument as its chemically different from normal first pressing castor.

It's my opinion that petroleum solvents be used in petroleum burning engines, and vice versa with alcohol solvents.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Those manual writers get things wrong all the time. How about that can of worms regarding engine break in? [:@] Wrong info in engine manuals is pretty common for most brands. (Imho)

From personal experience, filling up an engine to the glow plug hole with glow fuel works like overnight magic.

AMB

Humm dirt a""s simple sound like a game plan the manual thing sounds scary wonder if they ever tried what they wrote martin

Warbird40

My Feedback: (24)

+1

1QwkSport2.5r

Can't argue with that. +5.

Leroy Gardner

To correct some missinformation about fuel: Nitro is an oil, you could throw a lit match in a bucket of it and all it would do is put it out. Methane is a low combustional alcohol derived from corn, not wood alcohol. Methane is the ignition of the nitro which in turn produces a slower than the alcohol explosion with alot more force. because of its burn rate it causes a longer downward burn force than alcohol alone, thats why there are different %'s in the fuel used in nitromethane engines. It is not a good idea to exceed mfg. reccomended %'s as engines are made to burn those amounts only.

I'm a ex nitromethane fuel burning dragster owner / driver and the stuff you burn in your models smell just like the stuff we burned in the dragster, we just added another kicker.

Buy the way when we cleaned up parts of the fuel systems we used laquer thinner because when blown out there was no resadue left behind.

Quikturn

My Feedback: (12)

I've rebuilt many glow engines over the years. My personal preference would be to disassemble, clean and reassemble. The o-rings could be brittle at this point and require replacement anyways.

But for a quick cleanup, I agree with those who say to flush with glow fuel. Alcohol and compressed air would help too. I'd stay away from kerosene and WD-40.

My 2 cents.

brockettman

Bocajunior,

Welcome to the RCU forums! Is your engine seized up? If not pull the glow plug squirt a little glow fuel in the cylinder, open the carb, squirt a little glow fuel in there too. Spin the engine and make sure it turns free and smooth. Dry out the engine, put in the glow plug and fire it up.

If it's not turning over soak with glow fuel until you can turn it over, then you should probably tear it down and check bearings and bushings.

There's my nickel's worth! Welcome back!

Ben

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Me, if it doesn't feel gritty when turning it over with a few drops of oil in it, I'd throw it on the engine test stand and run it. Then evaluate its condition. I'm confident that you would have a ready-to-fly engine after a few minutes of running.

It amazes me how we human beings can think of twenty ways to accomplish the same task. Just watch getting petroleum products on rubbery material that has been designed to handle alcohol. The two do not usually get along chemically.

Ed Cregger

countilaw

I've seen instructions that claim if you break in your engine with 10% nitro, you would always need to use 10% in the engine. You can't always follow the instructions in the box. I think it has something to do with Japanese to English translation maybe. I think they call it
Japanenglish?

Frank

pmerritt

My Feedback: (118)

You really have to be careful getting all those dried ants out also! They can really mess up the combustion chamber if the whole colony camps out and croaks in there.

(had to do this, sorry)

rgburrill

3 words: Marvel Mystery Oil. [8D]

whoopee

Gotta go with this one some of the best oil out there take the back plate off put some in there put some in the plug hole and a little down its throat turn her over a couple times and rinse with a little glow fuel if your gonna start it soon after this like that day but if its gonna be a day or two just blow the marvel out with compressed air and let it go.

And as we all say just my 2 cents. Oh and remember have fun

Whoopee