ZimboRaider

Hey all,
I am being given a Eagle 2 & Shark Tiger(/Tiger Shark) 46 for free by a friend and wanted to know a few answers, so here goes(bear with me)
-Is this engine an ABC or ball bearing model?
-What sort/size of props does it swing best?
-have people had any success with these engines?
Thanks all
Paul

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

ZR:

As I understand it, the Tiger Shark is a Leo engine, also sold as the Mecoa brand.

You probably have data on the Leo, or you can go to the Mecoa site.

Bill.

wildthing7037

Hi Paul
As far as I know the Tiger Shark is of ABC construction and also has ball-bearings.
I would go for an APC 11x4 or 11x5 if its going in a trainer.
I have seen one run once and it ran alright (not really). It was in a pylon racer(had bugger all compression) and it wasn't that fast.
However it did work, and I'm expecting it will be alright in a trainer (if someones giving it to you then who cares... - you're not losing anything)

Cya around

Stefan

hlallen867

My Feedback: (6)

I have the 52 they are impoted by Kangke here is there web site http://www.kangkeusa.com/ from what I have heard they have great customer support and their motors come with a 3 year warranty. The web site has an instructions section and will tell you what you need to know about your engine. Enjoy

OVER WORKED

Kangke industrial is the manufacture of the Tiger Shark line of engines. They are not part of Leo, Mecoa, or any other manufacturer. The prop range for the TS-46 is 9 / 8-10, 10 / 5-8, 11 / 4-6, 12- 3-5. The prop that works best for you will depend on your style of flying, my personal all around favorite is the APC 11/5. The engine is true ABC construction with dual ball bearings on the crank.
Having done tech. support for this company for the last 3 years I can tell you without a doubt 95% of the engines problems are caused by improper break-in. I always know I'm in trouble when the person on the other end of the phone starts out by telling me he's been flying glow for "20 years" and knows how to break in an engine. If this engine is run for any length of time in 4-stroke mode during break in, you toasted it and it will never run right again. The high interference fit of the piston needs the cylinder head temp to expand to the proper clearance, with out it the piston will score, not seal and leak exhaust gas in to the crankcase. Follow the directions and they run great for years.

Swager

My Feedback: (1)

A guy in my club swears by them.

I heard other good things too, but I under stand a long breakin period.

If I can find a good deal on one I will probably buy.

jp928

My Feedback: (5)

I have a problem with a .75 abc I picked up old, but never run. 12x6 IIRC, 15%Cool power, 3% castor; got it running rich, minute or two, slowly leaning it, throttle up and down, short squeak, stopped dead. Very tight, lumpy feel, opened it up, big end bush picked up on crankpin, turning in con rod eye.
To coin a phrase, I have been doing this a long time, mostly OS: 46FXs on pipes, 91DF, 120FS, 90FS, mixing my own fuel for years, have never blown an engine yet, never killed one with a lean run.
Dealer tells me I should not have used synthetic oil, its only got half the lubrication of castor, etc etc. Kangke only advises minimum 18% oil, synthetic/castor blend is ok.
I will replace the rod and try again, but its probably my last TS.
jp