Nose dive with Big Stik 40 & OS 55AX
06-25-2013, 12:56 PM
#1
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Nose dive with Big Stik 40 & OS 55AX
Hi!
Well, no good... I did what we all fear... and that is a complete vertical nose-dive with my GP Big Stik 40 with my beatifully broken-in OS 55AX (~ 30 flights on her)...
I loved that plane and engine combo.
Anyway, she drilled about 6 inches deep into a somewhat muddy, soft ground. Plane is demolished. Engine, other than being a bit dirty and a two of the cooling fins partially broken off (~ 3/4" in the back of the engine... no doubt from the fuse crunching into her). I did all of the external cleaning and it looks real good given the crash.
BTW, why did this happen? User stupidity. I did not do the "Last Chance to Not Fly Routine", once on the grass field-strip to check all surfaces and directions). I had been playing with my expo, end-points, etc., and I must have accidentally switched the airelons, left was right, and vice-versa. I am so mad at myself.
Ok, now the questions:
I have my plate completely full with both work and personal "real life" stuff and have zero time to be following the wonderful directions on how to clean an engine after a nose-dive, available on AMA's Sport Aviator website. I did all of the external cleaning per the instructions. I am not very comfortable with opening the engine, as I have never done so, but I consider myself mechanically inclined.
I would prefer doing this in the winter months, when all of my scheule is more open. How, if possible, can I prepare the engine for a 3 or 4 months storage without ruining what I have already messed up...
Are there some to-do's that I can perform now to help the engine stay in it's current condition until I can get to it? Rust prevention, etc?
What can I do, besides sending the engine to a repair engine technician and pay almost the same price as the engine itself.
Thank you so much for your help and guidance.
8.point
Well, no good... I did what we all fear... and that is a complete vertical nose-dive with my GP Big Stik 40 with my beatifully broken-in OS 55AX (~ 30 flights on her)...
I loved that plane and engine combo.Anyway, she drilled about 6 inches deep into a somewhat muddy, soft ground. Plane is demolished. Engine, other than being a bit dirty and a two of the cooling fins partially broken off (~ 3/4" in the back of the engine... no doubt from the fuse crunching into her). I did all of the external cleaning and it looks real good given the crash.
BTW, why did this happen? User stupidity. I did not do the "Last Chance to Not Fly Routine", once on the grass field-strip to check all surfaces and directions). I had been playing with my expo, end-points, etc., and I must have accidentally switched the airelons, left was right, and vice-versa. I am so mad at myself.
Ok, now the questions:
I have my plate completely full with both work and personal "real life" stuff and have zero time to be following the wonderful directions on how to clean an engine after a nose-dive, available on AMA's Sport Aviator website. I did all of the external cleaning per the instructions. I am not very comfortable with opening the engine, as I have never done so, but I consider myself mechanically inclined.
I would prefer doing this in the winter months, when all of my scheule is more open. How, if possible, can I prepare the engine for a 3 or 4 months storage without ruining what I have already messed up...
Are there some to-do's that I can perform now to help the engine stay in it's current condition until I can get to it? Rust prevention, etc?
What can I do, besides sending the engine to a repair engine technician and pay almost the same price as the engine itself.
Thank you so much for your help and guidance.
8.point
06-25-2013, 01:58 PM
#2
RE: Nose dive with Big Stik 40 & OS 55AX
It is easy to wash and clean a two stroke engine in and out. First wash it off good with hot water. Try to avoid turning the crankshaft if you haven't already. Using water will not hurt the engine as you will dry it off and oil it up anyway.
Then remove the glow plug and backplate. There are only four screws to mess with here. Then slip the backplate off. Then wash the inside out real good using hot water. Dry it out some. Then use something like WD-40 liberally on the engine to spray in and help flush out the water that mayy have gotten inside. Then rotate the crankshaft and feel for any grittiness if some dirt got inside the bearing or not. If it feels a gritty some more flushing out of the bearing is needed Repeat as many times as it takes. You should also check to ensure the crankshyaft didn't get pushed back on you, it sometimes happens. Thecrank will tend to rub against the backplate if it moved. ou can heat up the engine to about 250 degrees F and then a good push or tap will slip it back into place.Finally oil it up using something like Automatic transmission fluid or your favorite after run oil. Then it is good to store away until you are ready to use it again.
Then remove the glow plug and backplate. There are only four screws to mess with here. Then slip the backplate off. Then wash the inside out real good using hot water. Dry it out some. Then use something like WD-40 liberally on the engine to spray in and help flush out the water that mayy have gotten inside. Then rotate the crankshaft and feel for any grittiness if some dirt got inside the bearing or not. If it feels a gritty some more flushing out of the bearing is needed Repeat as many times as it takes. You should also check to ensure the crankshyaft didn't get pushed back on you, it sometimes happens. Thecrank will tend to rub against the backplate if it moved. ou can heat up the engine to about 250 degrees F and then a good push or tap will slip it back into place.Finally oil it up using something like Automatic transmission fluid or your favorite after run oil. Then it is good to store away until you are ready to use it again.
