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Old 08-19-2013, 02:03 PM
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Antares100
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Default Os fp60

Hi All,
Just picked up a new OS FP 60 off eBay (yes, eBay). Definitely is new, my question is when I cycle it manually (NO glow plug in) there seems to be a much stronger detent (resistance?) when the piston is at TDC. My other engines are .40s and smaller. Will larger engines give more resistance (detent) at TDC than smaller engines? It almost seems like it there would be too much resistance to complete a cycle. Again, no glow plug. Just getting back in to the hobbyt after many years, so haven't run an engine for a while. Thanks for looking.

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Old 08-19-2013, 03:38 PM
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"pinch" at the top of the cylinder is desireable.
Old 08-19-2013, 03:49 PM
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Thanks for responding, Jeffie. I remember the "pinches", this just seemed much tighter, probably the characteristic, as I said I have been out of the hobby. That and I felt more backlash at TDC. As I said, it is definitely new, does not look like it was opened at all and pristine when using a flashlight down the glow plug hole. Thanks again.
Old 08-19-2013, 05:26 PM
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My FP .10 had virtually no pinch when new, as most ABN engines don't have much pinch to start with. It's surprising that this .60 has a noticeable pinch. As was said, a good pinch is desirable. It's a really good day when an engine is so tight you can't turn it over without heating it up with a heat gun or hair dryer.
Old 08-19-2013, 06:09 PM
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Well then, this should work out well. Going to put it into a TopFlite Mustang, one of the old red box kits.
Old 08-19-2013, 06:34 PM
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In engines that have a lot of pinch I prefer to heat them up a little before the first start. Also prelubing the cylinder is a good idea. Just a little fuel down the glow plug hole and turning over by hand should help.
Old 08-19-2013, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffie8696
In engines that have a lot of pinch I prefer to heat them up a little before the first start. Also prelubing the cylinder is a good idea. Just a little fuel down the glow plug hole and turning over by hand should help.
I did just that with my Jett .35, although it was 40 degrees when I broke it in. I use a dead end road in the middle of a field for running in engines, so electricity is not available. A thermos full of hot water carefully poured over the cylinder heated it up enough for the starter to turn it over. (It has an AAC cylinder so it didn't loosen up much)
Old 08-19-2013, 07:46 PM
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At work I always use a heat gun to warm up engines for break in. Those RC car engines can really be stubborn.
Old 08-20-2013, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by jeffie8696
At work I always use a heat gun to warm up engines for break in. Those RC car engines can really be stubborn.
Those Piccos and Novas are the tougher ones, though my SH.28 was a pretty snug one. I wonder why they use ABN technology in aircraft engines so much but not cars. Although I think they all should be true ABC...
Old 08-20-2013, 05:24 AM
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I doubt ABN would handle the high heat, high rpms of a car engine for very long.
Old 08-20-2013, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jeffie8696
I doubt ABN would handle the high heat, high rpms of a car engine for very long.
I don't know about that. My car engines run cooler than my aircraft engines.. Usually 280F on my car engines and 300-315F in my aircraft.

I do have an ABN .15 from HPI that's never run; the bearings fell part before first start. Although that is the first ABN car engine I've ever seen. Even the OS car engines are ABC.

Anyway, enough of the thread hijack for me.
Old 08-20-2013, 08:45 AM
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My customers beat the dog snot outta their car engines

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