Sport_Pilot

Think of gum as sap and other resins, in fact chewing gum was originally from chicle which came from tree sap.

1QwkSport2.5r

Do you know (or anyone) if in this age of cost cutting measures and lacking quality that the companies or entities that make the oil are mixing the first and second pressing oil and packaging it as 'degummed'?

NCRC

My Feedback: (32)

Would this work for fuel mixing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pure-Castor-...item45fc9cd381

1QwkSport2.5r

It would work most likely, but the pricing isn't that great. Fox has a better price than SIG now. http://www.foxmanufacturing.com/inde...oducts_id=1511
SIG Manufacturing has raised their price for a gallon of castor from $23.99/gal to $38/gal!! Holy crap! :O

Sport_Pilot

I don't know of any presently, but I have heard of some bad batch's of fuel because the fuel companies supplier gave them bad oil, but why the oil was bad I don't know, it could have simply been stored to long or improperly and was rancid.

Sport_Pilot

Best to call Fox, I dont' think that is actually an active website. I don't think it has been updated for 5 or so years.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

http://splube.com/otherapplications.html

Stan (S&W Hobbies on the Penn. / New Jersey border) has some pretty good prices on fuel...nice guy too...
I haven't spoken w/ him in a few years, but he'd sell the ingredients seperately if ya wanted some...including Castor...maybe give him a call?

I bought a 55 gal drum of his15% std. Sport fuel, which is a synth / castor blend...and the SPL synth lube has been the best synth lube I've used...have not used ARO since and had no rust issues since either...
I'm not a huge fan of synth lube fuels...I like at least some castor in it, but this lube (whatever it is) seems to have good anti corrosion qualities?

stevegauth30

Dang, that's pretty hardcore! 55 gal. Of fuel! It doesn't go bad?

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Hi Steve...
One of the reasons I made a bulk purchase like that, was because I knew I had the ability to store it properly...

I fill 1 gal. cans or jugs (I saved old fuel cans, bottles for quite some time beforehand, and the white bleach bottles , and antifreeze jugs are good too)
I fill them almost all the way to the top, to keep very little trapped air in there...then put them in my basement. Sheets of cardboard on the floor first...then covered with an old blanket.
The temperature controlled conditions keep things stable, and no sun light, etc. etc.

For a while I was going through 3 or 4 cases of Powermaster per season...6 gal per case...it wouldn't take long to burn through a 55 gal drum... (I also gave some to my friends, swapped for stuff...and so on...)

Edit: Forgot to add one very important thing...
Not married...so I have the whole basement for my stuff...
My ladyfriend gave up on trying to get me to change a LONG time ago...

Sport_Pilot

I would think it would be better to leave the fuel in the drum. I have had problems with plastic jugs cracking and either leaking or the fuel evaporating depending where the crack is. I don't understand the fuel jug routine at all.
The air in a nearly empty drum of fuel would not hold enough moisture to cause harm to the fuel.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

The stuff doesn't sit around long enough for any jug cracking to be a problem...(that was however taken into consideration, and the plastic bottled stuff used first)
Figure it out....18 to 24 gallons per season...a 55 gallon drum doesn't last all that long...especially when you give some away and swap some for other goodies...

It did last through 2 and most of the way thru the 3rd, seasons...and all my engines ran just as well as ever, from 1st gal to the last one...but that was a couple years ago. (I haven't flown very much in the past couple of years)

Oh...and a 55 gal. drum is kind of heavy...try getting one of those down in your basement all by yourself... (wouldn't exactly want one of those in my house either...)

oil_can_harry

My Feedback: (2)

Okay, got to go fly a few weeks ago. 3 others were supposed to show up, no one did. Maybe I need to change deodorant, or shower more than once a week. My wife was supposed to bring me something to eat. She was a no show .... Maybe I should have invited my girlfriend. Anyway had a good time flying. My old evolution 46 dead sticked on me every time I flew it. Wouldn't idle for crap. Went thru 3 glow plugs on it. On the third plug I noticed it didn't seem to have much compression. May have just wore it out. It has probably 300 flights on it with a Jett muffler. Always fly that plane with the throttle firewalled. Maybe that's why...... Going to go fly Sunday. Need to get my planes on charge in the morning. Think I will take my twist 60 and my p51 sportster. Happy flying ! !

1QwkSport2.5r

No flying for me tomorrow, but I am going to try to run a few engines. My Fox twin has been running in the usual Fox fashion; take 3 gallons to break in. At 2oz/minute. Also have an Enya .15-IV, Fox .40bb std., and Jett .35 to run up on the test stand. Looking forward to getting on the lathe tomorrow to make some parts too possibly.

Happy Glowing!

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Harry- I have a Evo 46 that is from the first batch they sent over here with about as much time on it as yours. If you find anything worn please post info. Mine runs fine with a Tower muffler and 15%. Air leaks make these engines run like crap. So does glow plugs that aren't hot like an A3 or equivalent. Idle takes nursing the throttle and will drive you nuts if you don't keep the rpms up high. I have a Evo 45 PTS that is very finicky with fuel tanks set too low.

hairy46

My Feedback: (1)

Just found another GMS 47, these things are rocket engines when you get the air leaks out!

oil_can_harry

My Feedback: (2)

Well haven't messed with the Evo engine yet. Went flying Saturday and left that plane at home. Took my twist 60 which has an Evo 61 in it. Flew great. Also took my katana which has a is 55ax. It flew great too. Also took my Mach 2 which has a magnum 52 in it. The magnum 52 just screams with a Jett muffler on it. Had a couple of retired guys stop by and watch us fly. I think they are going to get them another plane and start flying again with us. The local flying club here is, well I'll just not say..... Have had a lot of people wanting to come fly. I welcome everyone. Just hard to keep the field in shape by yourself. Going flying again today. Got my rambler and p51 sportster on charge along with my hot trod Mach 2. Also taking my foamy corsair electric. Hope it does okay in the wind !!!!!

oil_can_harry

My Feedback: (2)

Where are all the glow heads ???? Out sniffing nitro ???

1QwkSport2.5r

Been working a lot at work and have some big projects going at home. I crack a jug open every other day or so and have a whiff... Or two..

I'll be running some engines this weekend I'm sure. I have a few that need a run up on the test stand and I also have some new engines in the mail coming from Canada. Looking forward to running those too if they show up.

NCRC

My Feedback: (32)

I'm here, just trying to figure out why I have tar black oil from my exhaust.

1QwkSport2.5r

Black oil means it's lean and getting hot which burns the oil. Usually ABC/tapered bore engines tend to run more like this with dark oil since they don't like to be run very rich at all. If it's a ringed engine, some grayish material in the oil is normal initially but goes away after break-in. Dark brown is fine for an oil color, black is probably a tad lean and that is usually good across the board.

oil_can_harry

My Feedback: (2)

Bought 2 os 46's over the weekend for 100 each. Seems leek everyone is going to gassers. Hmmmm, sounds like residue from the fuel. I don't think anything wrong with the engine would cause that. Did It just start ? Have you used this fuel in other engines with no problem ? Is the fuel old ?

NCRC

My Feedback: (32)

Moki 1.20 ringed (unknown early life)
Homebrew fuel 80/20 Sig Castor
Tried brew in different engine (normal semi clear)
16x8 8500rpm (overloaded?)
new gasket on muffler
no sliver or gray. Its not clear with black spots, its totally black
even turns grass black
Bought a 16x6 to try.
Starts easy with prime and back flip.

1QwkSport2.5r

Sounds lean to me. Run it up again starting over rich and bring it in leaner. A momentary pinch of the fuel line should cause the rpm to pickup. The richer it is the more pickup. Lean the needle with a pinch between each adjustment until you get no rpm pickup with a pinch. This is the peak. Richen up 1/16th turn and pinch, it should give a slight rise in rpm. This is where I'd be running it if it's broke in. If its not broke in, run it much richer for awhile. Note the color of the piston ring. Silver is good black isn't broke in.

NCRC

My Feedback: (32)

That's some good info. Come to think of it, I did notice SOME black on the ring, but just a portion.How many rpm from peak should I run it?

1QwkSport2.5r

If the ring is still partially black, I'd be tempted to do a latter half break-in. Meaning I'd run it on the test stand where it's in a rich 2-stroke and occasionally breaks into a 4-cycle mode. Run here for a couple tanks of fuel then lean it down so its in a rich 2-cycle where it does
not miss (4-cycle) for another tank and on a subsequent tank or two lean it down in stages, maybe a click or two and let it have a few minutes to see if it sags. If it sags, Richen it 1/8 turn. At the end of it I'd be running it 500-1,000rpm rich of peak for a gallon or two, those Mokis are said to need quite some time to break in like any good top quality engine would. My motto is: 'a good engine that needs a lengthy break-in will have a lengthy life'.