Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

I've just watched 7 days of the most beautiful weather go by without a single flight

Too busy with work and home and two-year-old haha.

I did manage to get the Night Vapor in the air this morning... lil' man helped me launch it

1QwkSport2.5r

Such nice weather in the Midwest lately, and little time to run any engines. I did manage to run a tank through a couple engines last week that I recently replaced bearings in. My Enya 60-4C and Jett .35 are ready for service again.

The picture below cannot come close to depicting the howl that engine produced. :O

blw

My Feedback: (3)

After seeing that pic I know what to do with those MA's sitting around.

Good pic of lil man. Those Vapors are fun indoors too. I cracked 3 props hitting ceiling fan pull chain knobs with my first one.

1QwkSport2.5r

I've been using MA props for throttle levers on my test stands for awhile. I don't like how much the blades flex on MA props.

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

I seriously think we've reached Ludicrous Speed! What an RPM...

stevegauth30

Have any of you fellow glowheads tried running these glow jobbers with gas using the new OS glow type spark plugs? I'd be interested in trying it just to see.

oil_can_harry

My Feedback: (2)

Glow type spark plug ????? I didn't know they made such a thing... Where can I go to read about and look at one ?

1QwkSport2.5r

Wait til I get 4-5 gallons through that thing! I'll bet it'll do another 1,000rpm on that 8x6 but I'm not sure the prop will take that for long. This thing only has about 1.5gal on it, it still gets stuck at TDC if you don't flip it fast enough. APCs limit says it should be good for 23k but who knows. I'll find out!

1QwkSport2.5r

Blasphemy! LoL. No interest for me personally. I am not much of a fan of gas - 30% of your horsepower goes out the window and those gasoline glow plugs that costs a bunch more wouldn't be my cup of tea.

stevegauth30

I'm only interested to try something different. Not to convert over. I love burning glow and that will never change. I only wanted to try it and see what the numbers would be. Keep your shorts on. Glow head for life! Lol.

1QwkSport2.5r

I was just kidding around, I should have been more clear. Sorry.

stevegauth30

I knew that. So was I. I'll never give up glow fuel. I love the taste too much.

Sport_Pilot

Yeah, and to sweeten it up try adding some anti freeze. U'mm U'mm.

Going to mix some right after I get back from the Dr. Someting about my liver and kidney.

1QwkSport2.5r

Here's a GlowHead maneuver... I have a couple cross flow engines (baffle piston) I got cheap off eBay that I'm gonna do a homemade PDP job on. Anyone else try this?

buzzard bait

Amazing weather; I've done lots of flying with an Enya 30SS and an old OS 70 FS, both great engines. The OS is a little tired, but sounds beautiful and still pulls the old Four Star 60 very well.

Today I fired up an RCV 60 SP. I've had this engine awhile; I dreaded trying to start it, so I kept putting it off. With all the gear friction a new engine feels very sluggish, like my starter wouldn't even turn it over. Mine is an older one that did not come with the starter adapter, so I have to start from the front turning the prop directly. I was really dubious about the whole thing. At first the starter barely turned it over and nothing happened. I tried flipping many times with a chicken stick; still nothing. Then I tried the starter one more time and off we go, like what's the problem? I was amazed. I'd heard about terrible vibration, parts coming loose and falling off. But mine ran just fine.

I adjusted for moderately low throttle and ran it rich for 15 minutes, then cooled for 15, then again. Now the prop turns freely. Every time it starts instantly.

Fuel is Wildcat 15% (they recommend 10%, but this is what I could get). Prop is an MA 16x10, which believe it or not is a rather light load for the engine because of the 2:1 gearing.

So my hope of building a Flair Puppeteer around this engine is starting to look possible. Great day!

Jim

Sport_Pilot

It should work, provided the case has enough meat to Dremel out a passage to the port.

1QwkSport2.5r

I figured it'd work, I was just curious if anyone has tried it. I know the Perry ports are usually the same height (same timing) as the bypass and as I understand they are on the exhaust side of the bypass port(s). I tried to find some photos of a PDP liner but I've not found any clear pictures to reference the location of the Perry ports.

aspeed

I would be interested to know too. Perry porting was only introduced around 1980 or so, and that is when the Schnarle thing got popular. It never really caught on. It may be a bit hard to drill through a hardened liner.

1QwkSport2.5r

It may be a bit hard to drill into a hardened liner, but the liner isn't real thick. I have plenty of twist drills, cutting stones, and files. I have other endeavors that take precedence but sometime soon I'll have time to mess with it. If anyone has a PDP liner they could photograph for me, I'd be happy to see them.

Sport_Pilot

I think some of them open a shade after the bypass. I have never ported a cylinder, but I understand it is difficult to get them accurate using a Dremel or other hand tool. So I would start with something shorter and go back and lengthen it at the top until I see some good improvement.

Sport_Pilot

It might be better to grind through the liner. If you drill you are going to have to make a prescise indention and hold the cylinder in a V block on a drill press. It will be too easy for the drill to move and ruin your sleeve.

1QwkSport2.5r

That's what I was actually going to do. The original idea was to use the drill press and V-block to mark the liner at the top and bottom to set the "top" and "bottom" of the ports and grind from there. If the twist drill has an easy enough time getting the starter marks going, I may just drill through the top and bottom starter holes and grind the slot out after.

NCRC

My Feedback: (32)

Whats up brothers! I picked up a used MVVS .49 and as i usually do with used engines, i disassembled and cleaned. The bearings had a notchy
feeling to them so i got some replacements from Paul at RC Bearings. The engine seems pretty good except for the sleeve has a indention on one side (not a ridge) I guess its missing some chrome there. My question is about the head washer / shim. If its a shim, i'm guessing i should leave it off since i'm running 0% nitro. This is my first MVVS.

aspeed

As long as you have at least .010" headspace, you should be ok. If you start blowing plugs, you may want to put the spacer back. If you have a tach, you should see if it does improve rpm's with no shim. I have an old Fox .15 BB that seems really low on compression (.040" headspace) I made a higher compression head for it, and it ran much faster on a small load prop. With a bigger prop (7-6 rather than the 7-5) it stumbled and really did not perform well enough to even fly. The reason I think .010" headspace minimum, is because the rod and other parts may expand when hot, and make the space smaller, or even hit. I have a couple MVVS motors. One is a pretty strong runner. The other not so much.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Hey Tim...how's it going...?
Many moons ago, I tried doing my own version of PDP style ports in a K&B .61, after hearing, then reading about them.

There should be some pics around this place somewhere...I recall seeing some...but it's been a while.
The PDP ports would be more accurately called "slits"...narrow ovals,about 1/16" wide X about 3/16" high..2 of them, paired-up, in front of and 2 in the rear of the sleeve..I say about, because I'm going from memories back to the late 1970's, when I did my attempts.

They are aligned to shoot across the top of piston, just barely on the Ehx. side of the baffle, aimed at each other across the bore of the cyl.

I did mine all by hand, with my Dremel, and a 1/8th inch "flame" shaped Tungsten Carbide cutter...'cuz that's what I had, that I thought would do the job.

I made 1 oval shaped passage on each side, about 1/8 x 3/16" vertically, just barely on the Exh. side of the piston baffle. and aimed up just a little bit towards the glow plug.

Testing actually picked up a few r.p.m. but I got carried away with removing material inside the case and cut thru to daylight. (a little JB weld fixed it)

It was a fun project, just to see if I could detect a few r.p.m. increase...and I did...maybe a couple hundred...don't recall that exactly, but I considered it a success, because I didn't ruin the engine, or lose power.

Edit: the timing of the PDP ports (in my Lee Custom K&B .61) is the same as the stock / std. port timing...the tops of the PDP slits are even with the stock I. port openings...bottoms are even too.