Glow head brotherhood.
11-20-2014, 06:52 PM
#852
I posted about this in the Fox thread,but I'll add my GlowHead move here. Fox .50 with a bad piston/liner. Answer: use a junk MDS ABC P/L and head from a .40. Guinness beer can liner shim and a custom made wristpin. We bored the piston to fit the Fox wristpin and Fox .50 rod as the MDS rod small end was egged out real bad. It was in a crash. The MDS head fit though the fins are clocked a little. This engine is a work in progress so we have some modifications to make to it still.
This engine turned a 10x6 APC at 11,400 on 10% fuel and 12,200 on 25% fuel with a .036" head spacing. The MDS P/L had roughly 10 gallons on it and still a good fit.
This engine turned a 10x6 APC at 11,400 on 10% fuel and 12,200 on 25% fuel with a .036" head spacing. The MDS P/L had roughly 10 gallons on it and still a good fit.
11-20-2014, 06:54 PM
#853
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I have picked out in weld out of numerous auto carburetors. Best thing I have found is an old pocket knife. It is strong enough not to break when prying on the jb,and all of my old ones aren't very sharp so not much chance to cut myself. I do use an old lock blade knife. Find a place on a smooth surface if you can, and start picking and prying on it. I have removed huge globs to little pieces in less than 5 minutes. Just be patient, it will come loose easier than you think. Good luck!!
11-20-2014, 07:09 PM
#854
If you read the text above those pictures, it says the MDS head fit but the fins are clocked a little. The Fox uses a button head and clamp, the MDS did not. At the time, we ran out of time to make a button head that fit the MDS liner so we just used the MDS head since it fit. This was only to test run the engine. One of our modifications to do yet is make a head button that fits the Fox clamp and MDS liner together. The MDS head screws are in a slightly different pattern than the Foxes are.
11-20-2014, 08:03 PM
#855
I have picked out in weld out of numerous auto carburetors. Best thing I have found is an old pocket knife. It is strong enough not to break when prying on the jb,and all of my old ones aren't very sharp so not much chance to cut myself. I do use an old lock blade knife. Find a place on a smooth surface if you can, and start picking and prying on it. I have removed huge globs to little pieces in less than 5 minutes. Just be patient, it will come loose easier than you think. Good luck!!
11-20-2014, 08:06 PM
#856
If you read the text above those pictures, it says the MDS head fit but the fins are clocked a little. The Fox uses a button head and clamp, the MDS did not. At the time, we ran out of time to make a button head that fit the MDS liner so we just used the MDS head since it fit. This was only to test run the engine. One of our modifications to do yet is make a head button that fits the Fox clamp and MDS liner together. The MDS head screws are in a slightly different pattern than the Foxes are.
11-20-2014, 08:35 PM
#857
11-25-2014, 07:56 PM
#858
Well, I have good news and bad news on my formerly JB Welded carb. The good news it that an overnight cook in a crockpot of antifreeze softened up the JB Weld so I could easily pick it away. The bad news is my worst fears confirmed. The threads in the carb body are stripped. The engine must have been dropped or in an accident to do this. My only resort to salvage the carb is to make it a remote needle set up. It's an OS 108 FSR and it's cleaning up very nicely. Maybe I should have documented this for those that may be interested.
11-27-2014, 09:19 PM
#860
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Well, you could check the needle housing as far as running it up by hand. See if if looks and feels as if it is seating properly, then clean it up good with alcohol, use jb weld on the needle seat threads, run it in and let it set. It will lock it down with no leaks.
11-27-2014, 10:17 PM
#861
If you look closely at the hole where the needle valve seats against (brass area in the carb body), you'll see it's deformed from an impact so it can't shut off fuel completely or meter fuel as it's suppose to. Going to a remote needle valve will be a good fix for this although it'll cost a bit more to do so. The RNV assy I ordered comes with a screw plug. I like your idea of setting it with a little JB.
11-28-2014, 02:13 PM
#862
I have a new GlowHead project for winter.... Airboats and airplanes don't meld well with snow and ice, and frankly neither do cars. So I'm gonna build a twin engine hovercraft using a pair of Enya .15-IVs. Anyone else got any wacky (or not so wacky ) builds going on over the winter?
11-29-2014, 08:18 AM
#864
I have a few car engines that need bearings replaced, but my supplier is out of the sets with phenolic high-speed retainers. I have to get the engine back into my little trainer and I should get my big Mig drone RTF for next summer. I need to make it a point to get out flying next season, I need to learn to fly solo one of these days. In the meantime, I'll work on some oddball stuff and hopefully get this hovercraft put together. Going super cheap on it - FREE.
11-29-2014, 09:35 AM
#866
I'm looking at a deck size of around 9" wide X 12-14" long as of now. The lift engine will be mounted facing the bow at a 30-45* angle upward and a duct around the prop directing all air under the craft into the bag. This will also allow the engine to be started easily. The propulsion engine will be mounted to a stand in typical airboat fashion with air rudders directly behind. I may try using a 3-blade prop for lift and a 2-blade for propulsion. I was doing a mockup with cardboard to put my mental idea into something 3-dimensional to get a better idea if it will actually work. I'll post some pictures as I get something figured out. My goal is to use materials and components I already have without having to buy anything except for maybe a prop or two.
11-29-2014, 09:59 AM
#868
Gives me something to do that doesn't cost anything. Keeps my mind well lubed. My wife seems to think we are too busy for me to work on it yet she has so much time to screw off on Facebook or whatever. Someday I'll figure out and change the double standard.
11-29-2014, 10:09 AM
#869
Does someone make a hovercraft already? Just curious.
My my idea for a hovercraft would be more complicated which is why I haven't pursued it. It would involve using a helicopter engine or airplane engine with a small cooling prop and use a belt on a drive hub to drive a yet to be invented gearbox. This would power the main fan as well as drive fans. Using helicopter parts (tail rotors), the drive fans would have collective pitch control. The gearbox would have to be made from lite ply, bearings, gears & driveshafts. Of course this would all be much easier with electrics nowadays.
My my idea for a hovercraft would be more complicated which is why I haven't pursued it. It would involve using a helicopter engine or airplane engine with a small cooling prop and use a belt on a drive hub to drive a yet to be invented gearbox. This would power the main fan as well as drive fans. Using helicopter parts (tail rotors), the drive fans would have collective pitch control. The gearbox would have to be made from lite ply, bearings, gears & driveshafts. Of course this would all be much easier with electrics nowadays.
11-29-2014, 11:47 AM
#870
There are hovercraft kits and RTR models out there, but I don't have any money to buy one. I do have materials, skills, and engines. I'll do the next best thing. Easy, simple, to the point. I'll make the inflation bag from an old coat or something.
11-29-2014, 11:58 AM
#872
11-29-2014, 06:11 PM
#873
For my hot wire setup, I just made up a basic bow out of a 1"x3" with maybe 3"-4" of 1/8" piano wire sticking out at maybe 20 degrees. I cut little notches on the end so the wire wouldn't slide. I used .015" wire. Tried S Steel, nichrome and regular steel. The nichrome seems to be the worst. My power source was just a 10 or 12 amp battery charger. The 6 amp one did not have enough heat. I used a 30 inch wire for mine. I lost it, or I would take a pic. It is not pretty, and cut pretty wavy cores, but I got a bunch of wings made from some scrap insulation I had left over from an attic.
12-19-2014, 07:26 AM
#874
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Help wanted here
I'm sure I've made this request before but I'm d****d if I can remember where - oh the joys of being a septuagenarian! Problem is I have two TD Thermal Hoppers but one of them has an unusual NVA and I'm wondering if this is a genuine Cox variation or something my dad added. These engines are part of my late father's 1950s collection of aero-modelling kit that I inherited. Anybody out there able to enlighten me (or even tell me where else I posted this!!)
12-21-2014, 02:35 AM
#875
The first one looks like a "Space Bug" without the tank part or possibly butchered tank.
The engine with the spinner looks like a Thermal hopper with the stock backplate from Cox.
The engine with the spinner looks like a Thermal hopper with the stock backplate from Cox.
Last edited by Mr Cox; 12-21-2014 at 01:29 PM.