stevegauth30

Theres a guy on flea bay that has almost every enya part. cant think of his name. Im sure someone here knows it. Also could get a hold of Ken Enya for parts.

1QwkSport2.5r

Here is what I tested out today. Turned out to be a flop. Two Enya .15-IVs is not enough power. So I need to figure something else out. Don't have another small pair of identical engines, and I want to keep it twin engines if I could. I used 15% fuel, 7x4 Scimitar props turning around 15,500. As pictured, it ended up being close to 6# and only about 3.5# thrust combined from the engines. My scale lied to me - the other day said it was 4#. grr. Sounds nice though! http://youtu.be/uHB3Nh2lbgY

I would add a 3rd Enya .15, but I don't have a carb for it.

1QwkSport2.5r

Shtterman is the guy to seek for Enya parts on Ebay.

stevegauth30

Ill bet a pair of OS 25 FSR's would be good.

1QwkSport2.5r

Well, I wouldn't happen to have two of those. The only other pairs I have are K&B .65s and those are WAY too much engine. It's gonna need at least a single .40 just to make it move. I have a couple .45 sized engines, but that'd be ridiculous. Hull size is 15"x22".

stevegauth30

Make me a trade offer. Maybe we can work something out?

1QwkSport2.5r

Man... If I had something I was willing to part with, I might take you up on that. Honestly, I kinda want to keep bushing engines on it if I keep twin engines on it. I don't know why.

stevegauth30

No sweat on my end. I thought you may be interested. I always planned to build a twin plane of some sort with them. They both run great, just a tad dirty. Well, I still wanna see your boat run so I hope you get it sorted out. Maybe I'll use them on the boat I want to build.

1QwkSport2.5r

I might pull the engine mount off my outrigger hydrofoil (TT 46 and Jettstream muffler) and bolt the whole thing to this foamy POS. I could have that setup fairly quickly as the engine, mount, and fuel tank are all one assembly. It wouldn't be a twin engine, but it'll go like hell.

Larry882

Hi guys, Anybody got a foolproof method of adjusting the mystery screw on a modern Supertiger 61 ringed glow engine. I'm using the factory muffler with muffler pressure and a master 12-6 prop on a kit built Sig Senior Kadet. My needle valve is open 2.5 turns for throttle transisition. Does turning that screw, (the mystery screw) clockwise lean it out? It is so rich it won't even run.
Thanks,
Larry
Added several pictures.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I only see the normal 3 screws, no mystery screw visible.

stevegauth30

Hi Larry. I'm not too sure what screw your talking about. The screw on top of the carb? That's your idle stop screw. That won't change any settings. If your talking about the screw in the center of the throttle arm, then yes that would change the way the engine runs. That's your idle mixture screw. That screw will affect your idle and transition up to half throttle. The high speed needle will adjust from half throttle up to full throttle. Do you have the engine manual? If not you can easily see it on line. Turning the idle mixture screw in, or clockwise, will lean your idle, turning it out wil richen your idle. Also, I notice you say " 2.5 turns for throttle transition" are you talking about the main needle, with the thumb screw? Like I said, that will only affect your engine at half throttle and up. Not the transition. And I'd be willing to bet that 2.5 turns is quite rich. That's usually a starting point to get the engine running rich, then you lean it from there for peak rpm. If it won't start, your idle mixture is probably too rich. Just remember, a tiny turn on the idle mix will go a long way. Are you starting by hand? Or with a starter? Is the glow plug soaked when you pull it? Have you changed the plug? If using a starter, is fuel spitting out when it's cranking over?

stevegauth30

This is your idle mixture screw. Are you talking about the flat head screw that's sunk all the way in on top of the carb? That just keeps the throttle barrel in place.

Larry882

Hi Guys,
stevegauth30 posted a picture of what I call the mysteryscrew. He has a pencil pointing at it. Since I asked this question I found the Supertiger forum and Bill Baxter has the procedure of how to do this. I'm going to try that this morning.
Thanks,
Larry

stevegauth30

come back if you need more help.

1QwkSport2.5r

I couldn't edit my list in this post: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/glow...l#post11961693 so I'm bumping the thread back up. Not burning much fuel these days, been busy... But I plan to order an AMA card with a number on it one of these days and hopefully get out to fly once or twice.

Engines I added to my collection recently:

Enya 46-4C (version 1 with small bearings)
K&B Sportster .20 (very corroded and rusted inside)
K&B Sportster .28 (NIB)
Jett BSE .56LX Piped

The lapped Fox .40 is gone, the Fox twin was sold. The K&B .40 #4011 and Novarossi .21 Ron Paris engines are still for sale.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Same here, Tim. Health issues have stopped me but I'm on my way back.

I think I'm going to cut back to all Saitos with only a few exceptions. I have a nice C. Lee K&B 61 that I will keep. A couple of Evolution 2 strokes.

hairy46

My Feedback: (1)

Just put a Tower Sixty on floats, it came out to around nine pounds, I put an OS 61 FX on it but wondering at that weight should it get a OS 75AX? I fly at a little over 6800feet here.

buzzard bait

blw, I have a NOS K&B 61 6550 I was thinking of sending to Lee. Can you tell me what you like so much about it? There was an old RC Report review that didn't find much difference, but a lot of guys have been sending Lee their engines for years, so there must be an advantage.

Mine has the old square block carb, but I have a new Sportster 65 carb I might substitute, since I read somewhere that it is better.

Thanks,

Jim

takEon

buzzard bait,

I have found that the CF Lee engine he sells has more done than those sent in for the PDP Mod. My preference is to buy one of his custom engines. The following explanation from Mr Lee goes into a little more detail:

To start with, the engine I sent you will turn just as strong if not stronger than the "Twister" 61. If a Twister and older stock 61 are compared, the Twister will have an edge. However, this edge comes through the semi-Schnuerle porting and a larger carburetor intake. The Twister is not a true Schnuele scavenged engines as it only has one mixture transfer channel. The Twister uses the same case as the ringed 61 with notches cut at the top edges of the bypass channel and two extra holes drilled in the sleeve. I do the same thing when incorporating PDP in the engines I sell, except I mill slots at the top of the bypass and in the sleeve. In effect, both engines utilize the same type of porting. Sort of a combination of semi-Schnuerle and PDP. The engine I sent you also uses the Twister carburetor, crankshaft, and rod. The stock rods have far too much crank-pin clearance (.004-.005") that results in clicking when turning the engine over and fellows thinking the rod is defective or worn out. I re-bush the rod for.002" clearance, so do not ever replace the rod. Also, I have modified the timing in your engine for higher rpm operation and pipe use. Didn't you read the letter that accompanied your engine?? Bear in mind that the engines you mention as possible alter native choices are not intended for higher rpm operation. The only two engines that I can think of, off hand, that would give you more speed would be a piped Rossi 61 or OPS 60 (if you could find one). And even then, the small increase in speed might not justify the cost of these engines.

buzzard bait

Thank you. I am more interested in larger props, like a 13x5, so maybe the Lee mods are not for me. Sounds like he's going for high rpm with a pipe.

Jim

1QwkSport2.5r

Thats K&B Sportster .65 territory with a prop like that.

takEon

Yes, the 13 x 5 works great on a K&B 65 Sportster and even better on the Twister 61.

Mr. Lee's timing mod for pipe use was for a pusher- prop jet, high rpm application. I just wanted to point out that there is more done than just the PDP mod on his custom engines for about the same money. I hope that wasn't too confusing.

1QwkSport2.5r

I suppose the the main differences between the Twister and Sportster is ball bearings and ABC cylinder?

takEon

The Twister weighs in at just over 3 oz's less and offers more power ( so it does use more fuel ). They both can swing big lumber. I can't wait to see the new replacement for the Twister 99-6102 K&B .61 ABC.

The last Lee Custom 61 I got has the new case design. Hopefully, the K&B availability will not be too far behind!