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Glow Engines Discuss RC glow engines

Glow head brotherhood.

Old 10-03-2016, 09:14 AM
  #1301  
FlyerInOKC
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Anybody here care to comment on what the first generation (1984-2011) OS MAX FT-160 Gemini flat twin is worth? I know the current version doesn't share any parts and the parts are long since obsolete. It supposedly has compression but if memory serves my it was the cams and the rod bearings that were prone to be damaged due to oil issues.

Oh, and assign me a brotherhood number all I fly is glow, 2 and 4 cycle in assorted brands. (OK forgive me for I have sinned, there is a little electric SIG Rascal C in the back of the hanger like that strange uncle your grandparents kept hidden in the basement. I didn't have a Norvel, Cox, or simlar size engine to put on it at the time and motor was in the kit). Hey everyone learns from their mistakes! It could be worse it could own a gasoline burner.

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Old 10-03-2016, 09:42 AM
  #1302  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
Anybody here care to comment on what the first generation (1984-2011) OS MAX FT-160 Gemini flat twin is worth? I know the current version doesn't share any parts and the parts are long since obsolete. It supposedly has compression but if memory serves my it was the cams and the rod bearings that were prone to be damaged due to oil issues.

Oh, and assign me a brotherhood number all I fly is glow, 2 and 4 cycle in assorted brands. (OK forgive me for I have sinned, there is a little electric SIG Rascal C in the back of the hanger like that strange uncle your grandparents kept hidden in the basement. I didn't have a Norvel, Cox, or simlar size engine to put on it at the time and motor was in the kit). Hey everyone learns from their mistakes! It could be worse it could own a gasoline burner.
$20 and I would be happy to take it off of your hands!
Old 10-03-2016, 09:58 AM
  #1303  
FlyerInOKC
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Nice try! I'm considering buying one not selling one.
Old 10-03-2016, 10:03 AM
  #1304  
jeffie8696
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I like the 2.5R better than the 3.3R. I have seen way too many broken connecting rods in 3.3s but I have only seen one in a 2.5. Mostly I hate the carbs but I can make them work. I have a 15Pro in one of my RC10GT2s and its adequate, the other two have an OS12TR and a Hobbyking 15. My 1/8 scale buggy is an Ofna Hyper7 with a stock .28.
Old 10-03-2016, 10:49 AM
  #1305  
1QwkSport2.5r
 
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Originally Posted by jeffie8696
I like the 2.5R better than the 3.3R. I have seen way too many broken connecting rods in 3.3s but I have only seen one in a 2.5. Mostly I hate the carbs but I can make them work. I have a 15Pro in one of my RC10GT2s and its adequate, the other two have an OS12TR and a Hobbyking 15. My 1/8 scale buggy is an Ofna Hyper7 with a stock .28.
It's my opinion that those broken rods are partly or mostly faulted because of users breaking in the engine at the factory settings following Traxxas's break-in procedure. I've run many 3.3s (and several 2.5s) and I run them the same way I run my bigger 1/8 scale engines. More oil, leaner mixture, and run them warm. Not this sloppy rich crap they're setup for out of the box. I have a 3.3 that's over the 8gal mark with the original Rod, piston & cylinder, and crank. It still has pinch too. I did just recently replace the bearings though. 8 gallons on a set of bearings in a car engine ain't bad IMO.
Old 10-03-2016, 11:16 AM
  #1306  
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I hardly look at ARF reviews because even it it can be built with a glow motor, they always build with electric. Actually would not mind electric if batteries did not burn or quit after a few years. Also glow is easier to fly again, no waiting for charging. Fuel price is not a problem if you mix your own.
Old 10-03-2016, 02:51 PM
  #1307  
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Originally Posted by Sport_Pilot
I hardly look at ARF reviews because even it it can be built with a glow motor, they always build with electric. Actually would not mind electric if batteries did not burn or quit after a few years. Also glow is easier to fly again, no waiting for charging. Fuel price is not a problem if you mix your own.
i agree brother, but I've noticed a lot of people doing electric to glow conversions, there are so many sweet looking ARF's out there, but most are electric only.
are people just to dam lazy to learn how to run and tune glow motors?
It really does drive me nuts how hard they push electrics these days.
Old 10-03-2016, 02:54 PM
  #1308  
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Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
FYI - there's no need to list your collection - I do it because I write a list down on a piece of paper and either my son finds it and destroys it or my wife throws it away.. If I put it here, it can't get lost.
True brother but I want to put it all down, been awhile since I've thought about my collection.
Old 10-03-2016, 03:00 PM
  #1309  
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I was worried that it was being forced to list all of our motors. It could be embarrassing for some people who maybe have too many to count. Ya maybe me even.
Old 10-03-2016, 03:15 PM
  #1310  
1QwkSport2.5r
 
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No requirement AFAIK. Like I said - I periodically list mine so I can keep track. I was on par to have about 60 engines, but I just gave 4 to a friend of mine.

Im trying to find socket head screws to replace the JIS screws in several of my older Enya engines and one OS engine. Anyone got any insight where to find screws with a major diameter of 2.75mm at .60mm pitch in 6.7mm and 22.7mm lengths? It seems the 12-32 prop nut is a little easier to find, but I'm at a loss on all of it currently. The Enya screws are 2.90mm at .60 pitch and 7.5mm long.

Last edited by 1QwkSport2.5r; 10-03-2016 at 03:17 PM.
Old 10-03-2016, 03:49 PM
  #1311  
NCRC
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I've got to sort out a Norvel 25. I got it used and put it on a GP combat Spitfire. It ran great on the maiden, but I didn't set the throws, talk about squirrelly!!!!!!

Anyway, second flight a week later, I couldn't get it running correctly, surging at full throttle no matter if rich or lean.

There was ht rtv around the carb when I got it, but I'm thinking air leak, although I could have sworn I saw the carb suck in some grass debris. Not sure

On the maiden, you didn't have to throw it, it would pretty much fly out of your hand.
Old 10-03-2016, 03:55 PM
  #1312  
1QwkSport2.5r
 
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Surging at WOT no matter the needle setting tells me there's an obstruction in the fuel system.

My ST .90 surges at WOT, but it will go pig rich or hard lean. It only surges within 1200-1500rpm of peak. Haven't had time to troubleshoot it yet.
Old 10-03-2016, 04:06 PM
  #1313  
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Yeah, tend to agree. My corsair belly lander has a piece of pantyhose for a filter and the spity might get the same as both are inverted and belly landers.
Old 10-03-2016, 06:06 PM
  #1314  
jeffie8696
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Surging at WOT can be a glow plug issue
Old 10-03-2016, 06:16 PM
  #1315  
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Originally Posted by jeffie8696
Surging at WOT can be a glow plug issue
Thinking back on it, I did lose rpm when igniter was disconnected. Might throw in a new #3.
Old 10-03-2016, 06:42 PM
  #1316  
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My engine surges when rich - but it didn't do it before getting a new ring. I broke it in on an old plug and put a new one in it before I did a peak-out run on it. I'll be trying different props, fuel, and another plug to see what happens. My engine surges when rich and it will go rich of lean with the needle.

I think a surging engine that doesn't go rich or lean with needle adjustments might be getting starved for fuel. Doesn't hurt to try a new plug first. I've never had a glow plug engine surge before, so this is "weirdville" for me.
Old 10-03-2016, 06:57 PM
  #1317  
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Could be a plug seal too. Maybe it dragged a bit on landing. I had one bad Magnum that surged real bad and seemed to run hot. The crank to case was a bit tight. I could tell by touching the bottom of the motor when running. I have mentioned this before, but in the case of the new ring, it could just need a bit more run time, or change of a shim or heat range.
Old 10-03-2016, 07:04 PM
  #1318  
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Anybody ever run a tower hobbies .75 2t? I had to replace a OS 91fx with the 75, I've only run 1 tank through her so far, she seems very tight.
Old 10-03-2016, 07:58 PM
  #1319  
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Originally Posted by jeffie8696
Surging at WOT can be a glow plug issue
It can also be an undersized fuel line. It collapses under suction, engine leans out, suction reduces, line opens up, engine goes rich, suction increases, then line collapses again. It has happened to me before. One time the line wasn't so much undersized as it was a very thin wall. It was an unusual sized line that came with the ARF fuel tank.
Old 10-04-2016, 02:57 AM
  #1320  
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Originally Posted by Sport_Pilot
It can also be an undersized fuel line. It collapses under suction, engine leans out, suction reduces, line opens up, engine goes rich, suction increases, then line collapses again. It has happened to me before. One time the line wasn't so much undersized as it was a very thin wall. It was an unusual sized line that came with the ARF fuel tank.
This isn't the issue I'm having. I used two different tanks - one of which I used to use on the engine (though I replaced all the lines inside and out) previously which is setup for both regular venting and also Uniflow. Either setup fave identical results except the Uniflow caused fuel to shoot into the muffler after dropping the throttle from WOT. I'm using the same muffler, fuel, glow plug, carburetor, and test bench. I tried no nitro (80/20) and 5/20 fuels. No change other than more power using a little nitro. I might be able to try running it tomorrow or Thursday to try some different things. I have a half dozen engines I want to run before it snows and this engine I want to have sorted before winter..
Old 10-04-2016, 04:30 AM
  #1321  
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Thanks for resurrecting this thread. I am in need of advice or assistance from anyone with K&B engines.

I have a K&B Sportster .65 that a friend gave it to me to rebuild and it's mostly in good shape. My problem is with the Needle Valve. It will not thread into the Spraybar. It is as though the HSN is just a mil or two too large to fit in. I am afraid that if I force it in it's going to gall.

I've emailed Meecoa to ask if I could send both pieces in, so that they could find a part that would fit one or the other, but so far, no reply from them.

Has anyone else run across a situation like this???

Bob
Old 10-04-2016, 04:33 AM
  #1322  
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Originally Posted by N1EDM
Thanks for resurrecting this thread. I am in need of advice or assistance from anyone with K&B engines.

I have a K&B Sportster .65 that a friend gave it to me to rebuild and it's mostly in good shape. My problem is with the Needle Valve. It will not thread into the Spraybar. It is as though the HSN is just a mil or two too large to fit in. I am afraid that if I force it in it's going to gall.

I've emailed Meecoa to ask if I could send both pieces in, so that they could find a part that would fit one or the other, but so far, no reply from them.

Has anyone else run across a situation like this???

Bob
There's probably crud in the spraybar preventing the needle from going in or you have the wrong needle valve perhaps. Post a picture of your needle valve and I can tell you if it's a OEM part or a mismatch. FWIW All 4 displacements of the Sportsters use the same mixture disc/spraybar and needle valve.
Old 10-04-2016, 05:10 AM
  #1323  
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Thanks. I'll get that. There isn't any crud or bending that I can see - I cleaned the spraybar just for that reason. I have a pdf of the Sportster carb and it is similar to the "Early Style" except that it doesn't have a separate Nipple (p/n 84-5601). The nipple, mixture, and spraybar all appear to be one piece.
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Old 10-04-2016, 05:20 AM
  #1324  
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Originally Posted by N1EDM
Thanks. I'll get that. There isn't any crud or bending that I can see - I cleaned the spraybar just for that reason. I have a pdf of the Sportster carb and it is similar to the "Early Style" except that it doesn't have a separate Nipple (p/n 84-5601). The nipple, mixture, and spraybar all appear to be one piece.
The "nipple" part 84-5601 is the threaded tube sticking out of the mixture disc. You have a complete early carburetor with needle attached to the carb. The later ones don't have that 84-5601 "nipple" - the mixture disc is just smooth and uses a remote needle. Your needle valve looks correct as well. Maybe the needle is bent? It doesn't look bent in the picture, but pictures don't tell the whole story. Try putting a drop of oil on the needle valve and try working it in and out (as if screwing it in and out). As a last resort besides replacing the needle valve, you could lightly sand the large part of the shank of the needle valve with fine sandpaper and lap it to fit, though I don't think that should be necessary. Maybe try a pipe cleaner soaked with acetone and run it through that "nipple" #84-5601.

If you cannot get the needle valve to thread in at all, let me know and I can send you a needle valve. I have a couple spares.

Last edited by 1QwkSport2.5r; 10-04-2016 at 05:24 AM.
Old 10-04-2016, 05:31 AM
  #1325  
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Just a guess but the needle is too big, probably the needle for a remote needle assembly.

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