Glow head brotherhood.
#1301
My Feedback: (6)
Anybody here care to comment on what the first generation (1984-2011) OS MAX FT-160 Gemini flat twin is worth? I know the current version doesn't share any parts and the parts are long since obsolete. It supposedly has compression but if memory serves my it was the cams and the rod bearings that were prone to be damaged due to oil issues.
Oh, and assign me a brotherhood number all I fly is glow, 2 and 4 cycle in assorted brands. (OK forgive me for I have sinned, there is a little electric SIG Rascal C in the back of the hanger like that strange uncle your grandparents kept hidden in the basement. I didn't have a Norvel, Cox, or simlar size engine to put on it at the time and motor was in the kit). Hey everyone learns from their mistakes! It could be worse it could own a gasoline burner.
Oh, and assign me a brotherhood number all I fly is glow, 2 and 4 cycle in assorted brands. (OK forgive me for I have sinned, there is a little electric SIG Rascal C in the back of the hanger like that strange uncle your grandparents kept hidden in the basement. I didn't have a Norvel, Cox, or simlar size engine to put on it at the time and motor was in the kit). Hey everyone learns from their mistakes! It could be worse it could own a gasoline burner.
Last edited by FlyerInOKC; 10-03-2016 at 09:23 AM.
#1302
Anybody here care to comment on what the first generation (1984-2011) OS MAX FT-160 Gemini flat twin is worth? I know the current version doesn't share any parts and the parts are long since obsolete. It supposedly has compression but if memory serves my it was the cams and the rod bearings that were prone to be damaged due to oil issues.
Oh, and assign me a brotherhood number all I fly is glow, 2 and 4 cycle in assorted brands. (OK forgive me for I have sinned, there is a little electric SIG Rascal C in the back of the hanger like that strange uncle your grandparents kept hidden in the basement. I didn't have a Norvel, Cox, or simlar size engine to put on it at the time and motor was in the kit). Hey everyone learns from their mistakes! It could be worse it could own a gasoline burner.
Oh, and assign me a brotherhood number all I fly is glow, 2 and 4 cycle in assorted brands. (OK forgive me for I have sinned, there is a little electric SIG Rascal C in the back of the hanger like that strange uncle your grandparents kept hidden in the basement. I didn't have a Norvel, Cox, or simlar size engine to put on it at the time and motor was in the kit). Hey everyone learns from their mistakes! It could be worse it could own a gasoline burner.
#1304
Senior Member
I like the 2.5R better than the 3.3R. I have seen way too many broken connecting rods in 3.3s but I have only seen one in a 2.5. Mostly I hate the carbs but I can make them work. I have a 15Pro in one of my RC10GT2s and its adequate, the other two have an OS12TR and a Hobbyking 15. My 1/8 scale buggy is an Ofna Hyper7 with a stock .28.
#1305
I like the 2.5R better than the 3.3R. I have seen way too many broken connecting rods in 3.3s but I have only seen one in a 2.5. Mostly I hate the carbs but I can make them work. I have a 15Pro in one of my RC10GT2s and its adequate, the other two have an OS12TR and a Hobbyking 15. My 1/8 scale buggy is an Ofna Hyper7 with a stock .28.
#1306
I hardly look at ARF reviews because even it it can be built with a glow motor, they always build with electric. Actually would not mind electric if batteries did not burn or quit after a few years. Also glow is easier to fly again, no waiting for charging. Fuel price is not a problem if you mix your own.
#1307
Senior Member
My Feedback: (17)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Post Falls Idaho
Posts: 880
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I hardly look at ARF reviews because even it it can be built with a glow motor, they always build with electric. Actually would not mind electric if batteries did not burn or quit after a few years. Also glow is easier to fly again, no waiting for charging. Fuel price is not a problem if you mix your own.
are people just to dam lazy to learn how to run and tune glow motors?
It really does drive me nuts how hard they push electrics these days.
#1310
No requirement AFAIK. Like I said - I periodically list mine so I can keep track. I was on par to have about 60 engines, but I just gave 4 to a friend of mine.
Im trying to find socket head screws to replace the JIS screws in several of my older Enya engines and one OS engine. Anyone got any insight where to find screws with a major diameter of 2.75mm at .60mm pitch in 6.7mm and 22.7mm lengths? It seems the 12-32 prop nut is a little easier to find, but I'm at a loss on all of it currently. The Enya screws are 2.90mm at .60 pitch and 7.5mm long.
Im trying to find socket head screws to replace the JIS screws in several of my older Enya engines and one OS engine. Anyone got any insight where to find screws with a major diameter of 2.75mm at .60mm pitch in 6.7mm and 22.7mm lengths? It seems the 12-32 prop nut is a little easier to find, but I'm at a loss on all of it currently. The Enya screws are 2.90mm at .60 pitch and 7.5mm long.
Last edited by 1QwkSport2.5r; 10-03-2016 at 03:17 PM.
#1311
My Feedback: (32)
I've got to sort out a Norvel 25. I got it used and put it on a GP combat Spitfire. It ran great on the maiden, but I didn't set the throws, talk about squirrelly!!!!!!
Anyway, second flight a week later, I couldn't get it running correctly, surging at full throttle no matter if rich or lean.
There was ht rtv around the carb when I got it, but I'm thinking air leak, although I could have sworn I saw the carb suck in some grass debris. Not sure
On the maiden, you didn't have to throw it, it would pretty much fly out of your hand.
Anyway, second flight a week later, I couldn't get it running correctly, surging at full throttle no matter if rich or lean.
There was ht rtv around the carb when I got it, but I'm thinking air leak, although I could have sworn I saw the carb suck in some grass debris. Not sure
On the maiden, you didn't have to throw it, it would pretty much fly out of your hand.
#1312
Surging at WOT no matter the needle setting tells me there's an obstruction in the fuel system.
My ST .90 surges at WOT, but it will go pig rich or hard lean. It only surges within 1200-1500rpm of peak. Haven't had time to troubleshoot it yet.
My ST .90 surges at WOT, but it will go pig rich or hard lean. It only surges within 1200-1500rpm of peak. Haven't had time to troubleshoot it yet.
#1316
My engine surges when rich - but it didn't do it before getting a new ring. I broke it in on an old plug and put a new one in it before I did a peak-out run on it. I'll be trying different props, fuel, and another plug to see what happens. My engine surges when rich and it will go rich of lean with the needle.
I think a surging engine that doesn't go rich or lean with needle adjustments might be getting starved for fuel. Doesn't hurt to try a new plug first. I've never had a glow plug engine surge before, so this is "weirdville" for me.
I think a surging engine that doesn't go rich or lean with needle adjustments might be getting starved for fuel. Doesn't hurt to try a new plug first. I've never had a glow plug engine surge before, so this is "weirdville" for me.
#1317
Could be a plug seal too. Maybe it dragged a bit on landing. I had one bad Magnum that surged real bad and seemed to run hot. The crank to case was a bit tight. I could tell by touching the bottom of the motor when running. I have mentioned this before, but in the case of the new ring, it could just need a bit more run time, or change of a shim or heat range.
#1319
It can also be an undersized fuel line. It collapses under suction, engine leans out, suction reduces, line opens up, engine goes rich, suction increases, then line collapses again. It has happened to me before. One time the line wasn't so much undersized as it was a very thin wall. It was an unusual sized line that came with the ARF fuel tank.
#1320
It can also be an undersized fuel line. It collapses under suction, engine leans out, suction reduces, line opens up, engine goes rich, suction increases, then line collapses again. It has happened to me before. One time the line wasn't so much undersized as it was a very thin wall. It was an unusual sized line that came with the ARF fuel tank.
#1321
My Feedback: (2)
Thanks for resurrecting this thread. I am in need of advice or assistance from anyone with K&B engines.
I have a K&B Sportster .65 that a friend gave it to me to rebuild and it's mostly in good shape. My problem is with the Needle Valve. It will not thread into the Spraybar. It is as though the HSN is just a mil or two too large to fit in. I am afraid that if I force it in it's going to gall.
I've emailed Meecoa to ask if I could send both pieces in, so that they could find a part that would fit one or the other, but so far, no reply from them.
Has anyone else run across a situation like this???
Bob
I have a K&B Sportster .65 that a friend gave it to me to rebuild and it's mostly in good shape. My problem is with the Needle Valve. It will not thread into the Spraybar. It is as though the HSN is just a mil or two too large to fit in. I am afraid that if I force it in it's going to gall.
I've emailed Meecoa to ask if I could send both pieces in, so that they could find a part that would fit one or the other, but so far, no reply from them.
Has anyone else run across a situation like this???
Bob
#1322
Thanks for resurrecting this thread. I am in need of advice or assistance from anyone with K&B engines.
I have a K&B Sportster .65 that a friend gave it to me to rebuild and it's mostly in good shape. My problem is with the Needle Valve. It will not thread into the Spraybar. It is as though the HSN is just a mil or two too large to fit in. I am afraid that if I force it in it's going to gall.
I've emailed Meecoa to ask if I could send both pieces in, so that they could find a part that would fit one or the other, but so far, no reply from them.
Has anyone else run across a situation like this???
Bob
I have a K&B Sportster .65 that a friend gave it to me to rebuild and it's mostly in good shape. My problem is with the Needle Valve. It will not thread into the Spraybar. It is as though the HSN is just a mil or two too large to fit in. I am afraid that if I force it in it's going to gall.
I've emailed Meecoa to ask if I could send both pieces in, so that they could find a part that would fit one or the other, but so far, no reply from them.
Has anyone else run across a situation like this???
Bob
#1323
My Feedback: (2)
Thanks. I'll get that. There isn't any crud or bending that I can see - I cleaned the spraybar just for that reason. I have a pdf of the Sportster carb and it is similar to the "Early Style" except that it doesn't have a separate Nipple (p/n 84-5601). The nipple, mixture, and spraybar all appear to be one piece.
#1324
Thanks. I'll get that. There isn't any crud or bending that I can see - I cleaned the spraybar just for that reason. I have a pdf of the Sportster carb and it is similar to the "Early Style" except that it doesn't have a separate Nipple (p/n 84-5601). The nipple, mixture, and spraybar all appear to be one piece.
If you cannot get the needle valve to thread in at all, let me know and I can send you a needle valve. I have a couple spares.
Last edited by 1QwkSport2.5r; 10-04-2016 at 05:24 AM.