Glow head brotherhood.
10-07-2016, 06:48 AM
#1351
I find it hard to believe that the threaded tube and the disc/spraybar are one piece. It would be a major job to machine all the excess metal away and also to thread the threaded tube all the way up to the disc. Expensive operations for an inexpensive engine.
I would suggest double nutting the threaded tube and then while gently securing the spraybar/disc, see if the threaded tube will separate. I would carefully clamp the disc around it's outer edge so as to not mar any of the critical surfaces. Someone else earlier suggested this.
Good luck.
I would suggest double nutting the threaded tube and then while gently securing the spraybar/disc, see if the threaded tube will separate. I would carefully clamp the disc around it's outer edge so as to not mar any of the critical surfaces. Someone else earlier suggested this.
Good luck.
I was was the one that suggested double nutting the tube. I agree it's still worth a shot to try it.
10-07-2016, 02:47 PM
#1352
My Feedback: (2)
Yup, you did that in Post 1329... I remembered it. I just haven't had any luck finding another nut. I'll measure again - it would HAVE to be a SAE or ANSI thread, not a metric one. That engine was made in the good ol' USA. A good set of calipers and a magnifying lens will let me determine the pitch count of the threads. I'll check the junction of the mixture disk and the thread again with a magnifying lens to see if they are separate. I just don't want to force anything...
I just keep remembering an old saying that my dad taught me. "Brass to Brass, don't break your A**" :-) :-)
I'll let you know what I find out for the thread.
Bob
I just keep remembering an old saying that my dad taught me. "Brass to Brass, don't break your A**" :-) :-)
I'll let you know what I find out for the thread.
Bob
10-07-2016, 03:15 PM
#1353
Yup, you did that in Post 1329... I remembered it. I just haven't had any luck finding another nut. I'll measure again - it would HAVE to be a SAE or ANSI thread, not a metric one. That engine was made in the good ol' USA. A good set of calipers and a magnifying lens will let me determine the pitch count of the threads. I'll check the junction of the mixture disk and the thread again with a magnifying lens to see if they are separate. I just don't want to force anything...
I just keep remembering an old saying that my dad taught me. "Brass to Brass, don't break your A**" :-) :-)
I'll let you know what I find out for the thread.
Bob
I just keep remembering an old saying that my dad taught me. "Brass to Brass, don't break your A**" :-) :-)
I'll let you know what I find out for the thread.
Bob
The needle valve is in the mail - should show up mid week next week.
10-08-2016, 08:42 AM
#1354
The threaded portion is not tapered - the seat is behind the threaded tube section. (At least on the carburetor I took apart with the removable threaded tube.) If you drilled it out, you would need to be careful to not go too deep. There should be a space between the end of the threaded tube and the seat, so you should have a safety margin. But if your mixture disc/needle tube is indeed one piece, you will need to drill some and fit the needle, drill the tube and fit the needle until it fits and seats properly. BUT hopefully this won't be necessary.
I replied to the PM. I'll go to the post office today.
I replied to the PM. I'll go to the post office today.
10-09-2016, 01:23 PM
#1355
My Feedback: (2)
SportPilot,
That was my problem... I was just barely able to catch the needle valve on the first thread before it felt like it was 'bottoming' on something. I didn't want to force anything for fear of damage. I am not sure that all spray bars aren't tapered... I think that a few are but am not certain who the manufacturer's might be, so I decided to be cautious.
Let's see how this all works out....
Bob
That was my problem... I was just barely able to catch the needle valve on the first thread before it felt like it was 'bottoming' on something. I didn't want to force anything for fear of damage. I am not sure that all spray bars aren't tapered... I think that a few are but am not certain who the manufacturer's might be, so I decided to be cautious.
Let's see how this all works out....
Bob
10-15-2016, 04:44 AM
#1356
Here is my history lesson to myself. 60 year old engines can be ornery... 
Test run of my OS Max .15III. 7x5 MAS scimitar, 12% nitro 23% castor fuel, MC59 plug.
Not bad I think?
https://youtu.be/RXALYXlV0sA
Test run of my OS Max .15III. 7x5 MAS scimitar, 12% nitro 23% castor fuel, MC59 plug.
Not bad I think?
https://youtu.be/RXALYXlV0sA
10-15-2016, 02:19 PM
#1357
Man it's dead around here. "If I ran RCU.... I'd motivate members to be 'regular'. I'd rather post here - much less troll-ish behavior here... But RCG gets piles more activity. I don't understand why either.
Hopefully the RCU admin team figures it out. I hate RCG.
Hopefully the RCU admin team figures it out. I hate RCG.
10-15-2016, 02:55 PM
#1358
RC Canada is pretty dead compared to RCU. Absolutely no trolls there. We have 1/10th of the population of the US. RC Groups is the world more so than what RC Universe lets on from the name. RC Groups does have a few guys from Holland area that really seem to hate each other and maybe some others that they think are not as smart as them. They are still fun to watch though. I would like to see them in the same room. The Australians seem like really cool guys. (blokes?) That old OS is almost as good as the wonderous LA.
Last edited by aspeed; 10-15-2016 at 02:57 PM.
10-15-2016, 03:35 PM
#1359
I hear ya. A lot of forums have died off some due to Facebook and they crap. It's sad.
This old OS is great. No liner to peel and its older than dirt and still works. I haven't gotten to know it very well yet, but I'm sure I can sort it out so it'll hand start easier. 16.5k on a 7x5 and 12% nitro ain't bad. I think the silencer is for the Max .25 - not the .15... Might be why it made more power. I dunno. It was a free engine besides the $4 prop nut.
This old OS is great. No liner to peel and its older than dirt and still works. I haven't gotten to know it very well yet, but I'm sure I can sort it out so it'll hand start easier. 16.5k on a 7x5 and 12% nitro ain't bad. I think the silencer is for the Max .25 - not the .15... Might be why it made more power. I dunno. It was a free engine besides the $4 prop nut.
10-15-2016, 06:24 PM
#1360
Same silencer for .15, .20, .25; it also works on the old .10, although there was a special smaller muffler that was made for it.
These old engines are perfectly good today; nothing is more reliable. They start easily, throttle flawlessly and run steady. My .20 is a pure pleasure on my old SureFlite Cub.
Jim
These old engines are perfectly good today; nothing is more reliable. They start easily, throttle flawlessly and run steady. My .20 is a pure pleasure on my old SureFlite Cub.
Jim
10-15-2016, 06:52 PM
#1361
My 15III is a b!tch to start by hand. It runs great on top - I peaked it and set it about 400rpm rich. A little unsteady, by consistent. If idled lower than 4K it was iffy if it would stay going, but above that it throttled great. The engine has a LOT of use on it. Lots of carbon on and under the piston crown. I cleaned some of it up, but tried to leave the inner bore and outer piston surface as untouched as possible while cleaning the parts up.
Thr silencer or this engine is really a tube sliced in half and screwed together at the exhaust port (both halves bolt together and to the engine with the same screws). The muffler I have on it now (strap type) is from the old .25RC I gave my buddy.
Thr silencer or this engine is really a tube sliced in half and screwed together at the exhaust port (both halves bolt together and to the engine with the same screws). The muffler I have on it now (strap type) is from the old .25RC I gave my buddy.
10-16-2016, 06:21 AM
#1362
A less used 15 III should give you much better starting and throttling. Pretty cheap on ebay if you are curious enough. I'm sure you're familiar with Downunder's collection of old reviews; below is for the Enya 15 III. Note that Chinn is particularly impressed by the low idle and excellent pick up to full power. He also says it starts easily. I have a couple but I haven't broken them in yet. A very well-worn one on a friend's Goldberg Eaglet ran about like yours and he replaced it first with an OS 15 FP from my collection, and then bought a 15 LA, which both worked very well.
http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...-III%20TV.html
Jim
http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...-III%20TV.html
Jim
10-17-2016, 02:36 AM
#1363
Mine was a mere curiosity. I have a lot of .15 engines and was hopeful this one wasn't too worn so I could fly it, but I don't think I will. It's a tiny little engine and a powerful one at that, but past its prime it seems.
Not a big deal.
Not a big deal.
10-17-2016, 05:01 AM
#1364
My Feedback: (1)
I never even considered anything as small as a 15, a gentleman I that was friends with a friend of mine, left me his plane's when he passed. All the plane's were forty and sixty size but one, its has a little 15, I have had so much fun with the plane that I have found small old kits and more 15s, love the sound of them, everyone seems to be going bigger, I have gone smaller at least five so far!
10-17-2016, 06:07 AM
#1365
My buddy is a big 1/2a buff - so he has rubbed off on me in a way. I have one .049, but the rest are .10, .15, and up. Most of my .15s are Enya IVs (model 3304). Great runners although not mega powerful. Use lots of oil and lots of nitro and they cook pretty good. Noisy and a little messy, but 1/2a stuff is worse for mess..
10-17-2016, 06:31 AM
#1366
I have a bunch of the old OS Max engines .10 to ..40, I love them. I have several projects planned around them. Speaking of old engines does anyone have an idea what I could use for a muffler on this old FA-120 the local clubs all reuire muffled engines. Was surprised this engine had a tube for a pressure line.
10-18-2016, 08:40 AM
#1370
10-18-2016, 10:52 AM
#1372
I know I sure can.. Haven't burned as much fuel this season as I normally do - between work and life, there ain't much time left over. I've been dying to get back to the pond to run my little 30yr old Graupner Arrow RC boat along with my Jett .56 powered outrigger airboat.
10-18-2016, 01:08 PM
#1374
Most guys set them up electric. Mine has an old OS .21 SE-M. Basically a converted airplane engine, so it's not all that fast. It came stock with a regular muffler, but I have a tuned pipe and header I'm gonna put in it and see if it wakes up a little. The kit included 2 fuel tanks, but I think the engine has a hard time drawing fuel because of the huge carb it has on it (stock, 9mm choke). I'm gonna get it running reliably with the stock muffler first and swap the header and pipe into it. Later, if the boat doesn't fall apart, I might stick a nice Italian marine engine in it.
