1QwkSport2.5r

I'd have tossed it away too and bought a whole engine for the price that crankcase would have costed though.

I'll be sending Dub an email in regard to getting an LX timed piston and liner for my BSE .35, I'll ask about his temp guidelines and bearing changes at the same time.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

A 46FX in a crockpot of antifreeze and set to high heat will come out dark gray and look discolored. That's too hot. You meant low heat Flyinwalenda, right?

GasAllTheWay

To me, the torch is worth the risk because the only thing I need is the bearings at $10. I have two .46 os fx motors on other planes. Getting this one to work will just allow me to get another cool sport plane. Anyway, the end of the cam shaft is all rusty and I was thinking I might need a new one at like $32, but I am just going to remove the rust with a method I haven't determined yet. Any ideas? Maybe some automotive rust remover from advance auto? Just leave the shaft in that for a bit? The shaft is steel so it shouldn't be a problem right? See photos of cam shaft. Really, all I need is a piston con rod pin clasp cuz one of them went flying when I was taking the con rod pin out. Ugh, to think that could be all I need after I clean up all the rest of the parts... a $2 little clasp. I should prob get new gaskets too while I'm at it.

1QwkSport2.5r

You spent more time fixing an abused OS engine than it was ever worth. Great experience for someone without the experience previously but nothing beyond that IMO.

Evaporust is supposed to work well to clean up rust FYI.

GasAllTheWay

Where can I get evaporust? Walmart or an auto parts store?

As far as the time I spent on this... I think it's been like two hours, and the learning experience and overall worth from discovering the innards of the engine which has brought me countless hours of enjoyment is for me to determine. I needed to do this once for the experience, as you said. I'm really excited to put this back together with new bearings and seeing if this runs. If the engine runs great and I saved $100-$150, well that's a nice bonus too.

1QwkSport2.5r

Probably cheaper online - like Amazon. Otherwise the big name auto parts houses should have it. Some guys on here swear by it. I've never used it.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

You have tried the plain heat method a few times without success so you need to try another angle;. As already mentioned, either antifreeze in a crock pot, or soak it in PB Blaster (or the rust buster of your choice) and heat it again.
The crock pot I use only has one setting but if yours has a low and high then use the low setting,

GasAllTheWay

I am amazed at how cheap the bearings can be bought for. $10 with free shipping. I had seen the ceramic ones for like $17 but I don't need anything special. I am hearing that squirting a few drops of 10 weight or another oil in the engine after use will coat the engine components and prevents rust. Do you drop it in the carb opening and spin the prop a few times? What have you all done to keep your engines in safe shape during storage periods?

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

Air tool oil, 3-in-1 oil, any light machine oil. I use Marvel Marvel Air Tool Oil.
For 2-cycle glow engines you run the engine out of fuel then simply open the carb and pour some down the carb throat and rotate the engine a few times. For 4-cycle glow ,run it out of fuel then force it through the crankcase pressure port or suck it up by rocking the prop back and forth when the piston is approaching the compression stroke. For long term storage you do the above and also drop some in through the glow plug opening.

pitstop000

My Feedback: (26)

Do you have a Harborfreight near you?

They carry it

http://www.harborfreight.com/http-www-harborfreight-com-1-gallon-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96431-html.html

GasAllTheWay

haha that's funny I called the one near my house and they are holding the quart sized $9.99 jug for me. Going to soak the cam and case until the bearings arrive thur or fri.

Left-Hand-Dan

Easy.

The he front bearing should tap out with a wood or balsa dowl/stick.

For or the rear place it backplate down (with the backplate removed) on a plate or pizza tray.

Place in a 400* oven. In 5-10min it should fall out.

If the front bearing is stuck it should now tap out easly. Quickly reinstall the new bearings while the engine is still hot.

suburban95

My Feedback: (9)

OK GasAllTheWay I don't mean to be a PIA but nobody else commented so I will. OS46FX is a 2-stroke engine and does not have a camshaft, what you are calling a camshaft is the CRANKshaft. As long as you get the loose rust off and as long as the rear bearing surface of the Crankshaft is not to loose after cleaning and the lower connecting Rod pin is not loose it should be fine. Good Luck and hope it works out for you. I also recommend Marvel Mystery Air Tool Oil as an after run oil.

Left-Hand-Dan

Put it all metal parts in a crock pot with antifreeze over night.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

If it were my engine, I'd try polishing the crank first...before thinking about buying a new one...

Try some wet / dry sandpaper...the black stuff typically used for auto body and paint work. 1000 grit and some light oil and polish the crankpin (where the connecting rod bushing rides ) and bearing surfaces...shouldn't take much effort to clean it up nicely.

The rest of the rust on the counterweight, can just be scraped off carefully w/ a dull x-acto blade...clean the intake passage in the crank w/ some sandpaper wrapped around a suitable sized piece of wood dowel.

thailazer

+1 on proptop's post. The only surfaces that matter are the connecting rod nub, the main shaft surfaces, and the threads to attach your prop. I would just use sandpaper to get off as much of the flakes as I could and use it as is if the critical surfaces look good.

[email protected]

My Feedback: (29)

Mine fall out at around 225 F. In a toaster oven. Aluminum castings expand when heated. That's what we want. If it's corroded bad use a 1/4" Brass round stock with a mallet to knock bearing out . You guys think RC engine bearings are bad? Try Dirt Bike Wheel bearings. The problem with them is you can't throw them in a oven.

1QwkSport2.5r

225F? Hah! No engine I own could dream of having the bearings fall out at that temperature. My brand new TT .46 needed to be heated to 350F to get the factory metal caged bearings out. Where's the good fortune supposed to be?

GasAllTheWay

Nope, nope, you're right, it is crank shaft. Freudian slip for me, since I have been a car motor head for years and got used to the word cam shaft. I realize it's crank.

Anyway, yes I have no plans on purchasing a new crank shaft. The parts are soaking since last night in an Evaporust bath. After a couple hours the crank shaft had de-rusted surprisingly well. On Friday after work I will take the necessary steps to completely clean it up and polish it. Can't wait to see if this baby will run.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

I would remove the carb from the solution unless you know it doesn't harm rubber or have removed all the o-rings.

GasAllTheWay

Removed orings beforehand

Broken Wings

My Feedback: (20)

It looks Great! Good Job...

[email protected]

My Feedback: (29)

Go on YouTube the proof is in the video.
In case you need help there
you tube search removal of RC engine bearings

GasAllTheWay

Thanks. Yes, trust me I have the videos I need queued up on youtube. I was just watching a video showing me how to reassemble the engine.

[email protected]

My Feedback: (29)

Youtube is great. It showed me how to remove a dashboard on a Durango. The guy in the shop told me it would be a half a day job. It was out in like 20 minutes. Thanks to youtube for stuff like that.
Also reheat the crank case when installing the new bearings.
Good luck !