GasAllTheWay

I am having serious issues getting this rear bearing out. I was obviously able to get the sleeve out, which was crazy enough, as well as the cam shaft, but man, this rear bearing won't budge! I've heated up the engine to 350 and it still won't budge after banging the case against a 2x4. I'm thinking I'm going to need a bearing removal tool, but the problem is there isn't much room, if any at all, to lodge something between the bearing and it's seat. I am thinking about putting the engine in the freezer tonight, and then applying direct heat to the area with a propane torch (carefully of course) to get the expansion of the case away from the bearing. Please see the pic. There was some rust inside the engine. The crank shaft had some serious rust on the entire end portion where it meets the piston connecting rod. You can see in the pic that the bearing is seriously rusted. Someone help me out with what I can do, this is nuts.

1QwkSport2.5r

A torch is a NO NO. You will warp the case almost for sure. Use the oven and crank up the heat. If you had it at 350F for at least 15 minutes, turn it up to 375F for 15-20 minutes. If still no go, go to 400F. Increase 25F each time until it comes out. My Enya R120 needed a 400F oven for 20 minutes for the bearings to come out. Using a torch is BAD mojo.

GasAllTheWay

I just have a bad feeling that the oven method won't work no matter how hot I cook it. This thing seems like it is caked to the crank case. I have tried 400 for 20 and no go. It isn't budging at all! I have seen that Hudy bearing remover which is perfect for this job but it's $100, which defeats the purpose of what I am doing since I can just buy a good engine at that price. I am thinking I am going to need to fashion a tool to do this. Like maybe get a threaded bolt and put a smaller diameter washer on the end held on with a nut. Wedge half the washer in the small gap I can see between the bearing and the crank case where it is seated. Then with a big washer on the other end and a nut holding it against the back side of the crank case, tighten the nut with a wrench, hoping the washer between the bearing and seat does not slip out, and pulls it out. I will obviously heat the engine first. Will this work?

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

Fill an old crock pot with antifreeze and some water, turn it on high and let it "cook" for a day or two. That should dissolve the gunk and allow it to come out.

1QwkSport2.5r

A wood dowel through the crankshaft hole and smacking it with a hardwood block did the trick for my Enya R120.

Don't use a torch, that's just bad mojo.

aspeed

I made a puller with some strapping. It was about .025 pretty strong steel. Just a V with the ends bent over to grab the inside back of the bearing. I had to shape it to a point so it would fit in the small space. It was a very nasty motor. A tapered collet could be made if you have a lathe, or even just taper a shaft and ram it in a bit if you are sure to kiss the old bearing goodbye.

GasAllTheWay

I am replacing the bearings. These are rusted and shot. That's why the bearing won't pop out. It is caked against the seat. I am thinking the only way this comes out is with a bearing removal tool like the Hudy one I mentioned, or one I can make myself. Guys, I have heated this thing to 400 degrees and slammed the back side of the crank case like a ****, and it has not budged a bit. The antifreeze in crock pot suggestion is not possible right now... No crock pot. I just don't know what else to do. The end of the crank shaft that meets with the piston connecting rod was caked in a lot of rust. The steel balls inside this pesky bearing are all terribly rusted.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

If you have a Salvation Army or Thrift store nearby you can pick up a crock pot for $3.00-$5.00. The antifreeze will loosen up the gunk/rust and the case will be heated too and usually the bearings fall right out. If not then get some PB Blaster ,fill up a small container so the bearing is submersed and let it soak for a day or two taking it out every few hours and rapping the case around the bearing then putting it back in the container. Then heat it up.

GasAllTheWay

I looked on Craigslist and someone has a baby crock pot for $3. Hoping they call me back having since left them a voice mail. In the meantime I am going to create a press out of a threaded bolt, 2 washers, and 2 nuts. As you can see from my shoddy schematic lol, the tool I will create... it will have an extra thin washer capable of fitting between the bearing and the seat. If you look closely inside the crank case, you can see the tiny gap behind the bearing. The washer obviously needs to be slightly smaller in diameter than the bearing's inner diameter. Once in I will tighten the washers on the bottom half of the bearing, then reposition the washer on the other end of the bearing and pull that side. I will keep alternating until I get it out. I think it should work.

GasAllTheWay

If you stare at my drawing long enough it actually plays tricks with your mind and looks three-dimensional lol.

GasAllTheWay

The more I think about it, the washer will probably just pop out if only a portion of it is seated in the gap behind the bearing. Idk, I will still try this I guess.

daytonarc

My Feedback: (5)

I had an FX 46 with the same problem and I did use a propane tourch with no issues. I just heated all the way around the crankcase at the bearing as evenly as I could and smacked it on the wood. It took 2 tries with the tourch, the second try I heated it a little longer but after new bearings and gaskets everything worked fine.

GasAllTheWay

Yea I'm thinking about putting the case in a freezer fir like 30 min then using my propane torch on the bearing area and will try to pop it out then. That flash heating to the aluminum only instead of putting the entire case in an oven should make a difference. This is really stubborn though. I need to soak the case in an acid bath as well as the crank shaft to remove all the rust afterward. Need to find out what kind of chemical bath is safe for this aluminum. I've heard heated antifreeze here. I used a carb bath when I rebuilt a motorcycle carb once. Don't know if that's safe too.

daytonarc

My Feedback: (5)

I wouldn't put it in the freezer first, the shock could be bad for the aluminum. Just heat it evenly and the aluminum will expand more than the bearing. Undiluted, green, antifreeze in a crock pot, on low heat for 12 hours or so will loosen the crud up, then just use a toothbrush with the hot antifreeze to remove the loose stuff.

GasAllTheWay

Daytona how long would you say you heated the area before it finally came out?

aspeed

OK, I took a couple pics. The little tabs are filed to go in the small gap between the bearing and case. It took a few tries and made some light scratches on the aluminum, very light. You still have to heat things up and degrease it ideally. I took the bearing out of a nasty S Tiger .40 and replaced it with the one in this OS FSR. The cage had disintegrated on the Tiger after the cleaning with a crock pot. I don't know if it was like that from the beginning or from the crockpot. I am glad I took it all the way apart though. Runs good now. Now the FSR needs a ring and a bearing duhooo.

GasAllTheWay

What is the piece of metal that you tapered and shaped into a "V" shape? Where can I get that metal? It actually might be too thick though.

daytonarc

My Feedback: (5)

A little over a minute, medium flame, blue flame tip about an inch away from the cranckcase. kept the flame moving all they way around the engine to try to get it evenly heated then with a leather glove smacked it good and hard a couple of times on a piece of wood.

GasAllTheWay

Good news ny friend :-)

thailazer

Congrats! I have used a 4000 watt paint stripper to get them out. Gets the case hot before the bearing has a chance to warm up. Torch works well as long as you are very careful with it and know the chances you are taking with it.

Rust sure does make them harder to get out. I have problems with rust here as well on the planes I store horizontally. Seems like the planes I hang by the prop don't have as much of a problem with rust. I always run the engines until they don't fire, give it a few more seconds of turning, and then squirt in about 4 drops of 10 weight motor oil with another blip. Still see rust!

aspeed

I think it is the part that is thrown away (normally) from a windshield wiper blade, a stiffener. Stainless I would guess, about 1/8" wide and about .025" thick. I had to file a taper on the end to go to a knife edge to fit between the bearing and case, there was a fair spring to it that holds it tight. I spent a long time on that crappy dirty motor from a garage sale for $20. Luckily there was two complete SPADs for $20 each to make up for it. Got them all working in the end though. I kind of like that, resurrecting things from the dead.

Airplanes400

My Feedback: (349)

I hope you don't mind, but I have conflicting information that you may not be aware of regarding too much heat. This is from Dub Jett's website. He is considered an authority in the field of engines, and has a lot of respect from people (including me). Since he designs and manufacturers high performance glow engines, I think he knows what he's doing. This is his advise. You can also go to his website and download this material.

Warning: Heating the case above 325 deg. F. Will affect the heat treat of the crankcase material.

Bearing Removal:

1. Disassemble the engine by removing the head, piston and liner, crank and carburetor.
2. Drive out the front bearing using a 1/2" diameter wooden or plastic dowel. (the engine does not have to be hot)
3. Place the case in a preheated 325 deg. F. Oven for 12-15 min.
4. Quickly, but carefully remove the case from the oven using a pot holder, or insulated glove and drop the bearing removal tool (large ground end first) into the front of the engine. The bearing should fall out the back, along with the tool. If not, tap on the bearing removal tool to remove the bearing.
   • 4a. If you do not have a bearing removal tool rap the bottom of the case on a piece of wood to remove the rear bearing. If it does not come out, then reheat the case, reseat and align the bearing with the crank and try again.
5. After the bearing has cooled it may be removed from the tool by taping it around its edges, or by pressing it out with your drill press.

Bearing Assembly:

1. Make sure the case is clean.
2. Place the case in a preheated oven at 325 deg. F. For 12-15 min.
3. Place the rear bearing on the bearing assembly tool. Lay the front bearing in a convenient place.
   • 3a If you do not have a bearing assembly tool then use the crankshaft as an assembly tool.
4. Quickly, but carefully remove the case from the oven using a pot holder, or insulated glove and place the case over the assembly tool and rear bearing. The rear bearing will slide in place.
5. Quickly place the front bearing over the assembly tool and slide it into the front housing. Place the brass knocker over the front bearing and tap the bearing into its seat.

Caution!!If the front bearing does not easily slide into the front housing, only tap gently. It is best to remove the front and rear bearing and start over. Check the front housing for burrs and foreign matter before repeating the process. The technique is easy and foolproof. If the parts do not go in easily, there is a problem. Clean the case, inspect for burrs, and increase the time in the oven (not the temperature).

[email protected]

My Feedback: (1)

buy a new case and rear bearing

1QwkSport2.5r

I should have been a little more specific in my post you referred to Airplanes400. I never intended to assume anyone should heat above 400F. I've not had to ever had to get an engine that hot to get bearings out, and never would I go above that temp. BUT I had no luck getting the rear bearing out without heating to that temperature and using a LOT of force with a wood dowel and wood block. I started with 325F and after an hour of messing with it I cranked the heat up. The engine I speak of only had a gallon worth of fuel run through it and the bearings we're gunked up or rusty. They were just loose. The aluminum should expand more than the steel bearing but perhaps the bearing race was a little too tight?

I trust Dub Jett and his advice (I have one of his engines), the mention of too much heat adds creedance to my comment about NOT using a torch (even though it may work...) and perhaps that's why he speaks of the heat treatment of the case. I don't think the average sport engine has a heat treated case as such that heating above 325F will cause problems. I do think uneven heat is more detrimental than too much even heat. Now one thing that is unclear is whether he is speaking of his engines specifically or any engine in general.

Airplanes400

My Feedback: (349)

I've had sucess removing bearings at just 275° F in the oven. But those weren't gunked up. I used the torch method too ... but that was before I saw Dub's website years ago. Different manufacturers use different types of aluminum, so you may have a point with what brand of engine the 325 refers to. But for me, I'll use his guideline.

With an engine as gunked up & as rusted as the OP indicates, I would have bought a new case. I'm glad he had success.

The engine case turned out looking like new with the crock pot method (if that's what he did).