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Before I cut the con-rod...

Old 11-25-2014, 11:34 AM
  #26  
Lou Crane
 
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I'm glad someone finally mentioned the crockpot process!

It is amazing!

As to your earlier problem, a few thoughts...

I think the FP 35 and 40 were initially sold as both iron and steel or ABN (Aluminum/Brass/Nickel). The ABN eventually became the only one available. The sysop of another CL forum modified FPs in both configurations. He liked the iron ones a lot. So, if yours is an iron/steel piece, it may explain the abundant evidence of castor residues. AB(?) engines seem to prefer to run on much less castor % in the oil fraction, because they are machined to match piston and sleeve expansion at running temperatures. Castor varnish interferes with that two ways: it changes the fit tolerances, and it changes the heat absorption and dissipation, so also the running temperatures.

Your original problem of getting the rod off the crankpin was complicated by the piston pin sticking to the rod. A hardened oil residue 'collar' on the "gudgeon" (piston) pin each side of the rod, probably kept it from sliding side to side. I've seen this fairly often on Fox 35s that hadn't been run for a long time, too. THAT is an engine that works well on abundant castor oil fuels. The crockpot treatment very often frees the fit. When the rod can slide to side you have a bit of extra room to slip the rod off the crankpin.

The rod should fit the piston pin very well, and be free to slide sideways. If it is 'glued' solid in the wrong position, it can - no, will - cause more wear, hotter running and loss of power. The congealing, it seems, occurs when the engine is not running frequently. Sitting in a drawer or can or whatever, the engine will probably be in some position allowing the rod to slide out of best alignment before the drying and aging oil locks it up.

Luck!

Last edited by Lou Crane; 11-25-2014 at 11:36 AM.
Old 11-25-2014, 11:37 AM
  #27  
downunder
 
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Just a caution on the crockpot/antifreeze method. Antifreeze is a deadly poison as are the fumes so don't do it inside. Don't pour any antifreeze on the ground because it has a sweet taste that animals like but it'll kill them. It's been mentioned but I'll repeat it. Never EVER use that crockpot for food afterwards!
Old 11-25-2014, 11:41 AM
  #28  
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For those that want to avoid the toxicity of antifreeze, Simple Green works very well in the crock pot too and won't kill anything with the fumes or liquid.


Mark
Old 11-25-2014, 05:30 PM
  #29  
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I never tried the Simply Green yet, but have tried the crockpot and antifreeze. It works well, but the motor needs to be disassembled and all the plastic and rubber parts removed, and wait a few hours. I have used the Dawn Power Dissolver with good success. A few motors I have even left on the plane. I had a pretty nasty old Supertiger .40 that still needed the piston cyl. to be scoured with acetone and Scotchbright. The mufflers come up nice with either method. These pics are the Dqwn Power Dissolver method. It is a bit hard to locate the stuff, I got mine in a Walmart grocery store in Florida. Could not find anything in the Windsor/Detroit area.
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Old 11-26-2014, 06:19 AM
  #30  
Bluebrew
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Rigged up a glow heater using an old power panel and old motorcycle battery with just enough juice to work. The engine starts reliably and sounds good for a second or two and stops reliably. I used a tiny 1oz. tank on the bench mount and it was empty after only 4 "starts". I think I'll unhook the pressure line and see if results are better. Maybe too much fuel being pushed? Looks like I'll have to wait till after Thanksgiving as I'll probably be busy with the snowblower today.
Started taking apart a Tower Hobbies 40 yesterday and it appears to be a rebranded FP. I bought this one new and did run it. Like the others it sat for years, but this one was mounted sideways and as a result the sleeve is absolutely glued in. Also found no head shim/seal, is this an accepted practice in cheapo engines? Into the crok it goes. Will used coolant work OK?
Old 11-26-2014, 08:07 AM
  #31  
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I would give used antifreeze a try. I reuse mine. It looses potency as you reuse it a few times.

I don't claim to know exactly all of the details, but I know that Simple Green was prohibited for use on aircraft due to corrosion issues. It may be a problem with dissimilar metals but I remember that it was that Simple Green couldn't be completely flushed out of what was being cleaned.
Old 11-26-2014, 08:09 AM
  #32  
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I would give used antifreeze a try. I reuse mine. It looses potency as you reuse it a few times.

I don't claim to know exactly all of the details, but I know that the Air Force prohibited Simple Green for use on aircraft due to corrosion issues. It may be a problem with dissimilar metals but I remember that it was that Simple Green couldn't be completely flushed out of what was being cleaned.
Old 11-26-2014, 08:16 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by blw
I don't claim to know exactly all of the details, but I know that Simple Green was prohibited for use on aircraft due to corrosion issues. It may be a problem with dissimilar metals but I remember that it was that Simple Green couldn't be completely flushed out of what was being cleaned.
That's interesting. I have to admit that I have never used it on a model engine but it does work pretty well on degunking old motorcycle carburetors and they are essentially the same materials. No issues flushing it or with corrosion of aluminum components.


Mark
Old 11-26-2014, 08:18 AM
  #34  
aspeed
 
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Sometimes the head has a groove in and it actually does have a shim in it, it is just very hard to see, as well as hard to get out, I have been caught with this a few times. I usually just squirt in some fuel in the head, carb, and backplate on the nasty locked up motors. Letting it soak for 10 minutes, and carefully turning it over with a prop on. Then pour out the syrup. That has worked for all of my nasty swap meet motors. Sometimes the carb freezes up too. I will remove the idle/retaining screw on the stubborn ones if it is needed to give that extra torque to unlock it. I have used carb cleaner spray too, but the fuel seems to work just as well. It did dissolve the oil that was used originally after all. Methanol could be used straight, but I feel that having oil in it immediately is a good idea while turning it over in case there is a bit of dirt or rust. WOW three responses done in the time I typed this. That is a record. Either everyone is eager, or I have to type faster.
Old 11-26-2014, 09:28 AM
  #35  
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This tower engine I'm working on now repeatedly threw the prop off at me (I hear that usually means too lean) long ago. That kinda put me off planes and I got into R/C cars instead. So I put the small collection of planes I built in the basement and they've been there ever since.
That was about 12 years ago. The engines were used wrong and put away wet. It appears I at least drained the tanks.
I went out to the garage to make some cigarettes and while there checked for the head shim. It's not stuck to anything so it was never there or I dropped it. If It fell on the floor, well, I guess the gnomes made off with it.

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