Antares100

My Feedback: (12)

Hi All,
I have a few NIB K&B and OS FP engines. I am returning to the hobby after a few decades (!) and was thinking of using the SIG fuel w/20% castor for break-in. Don't even remember the brand of fuel I used 'way back when to break in my then new OS 40FP, so looking for some users of the Sig fuel and other recommendations.
Also, would you recommend the 20% castor for a 4-stroke?

Thanks!

1QwkSport2.5r

I've used SIG fuel in the past with no issues. As to be oil - this is a Pandora's Box subject that will net a plethora of opinions. My personal preference is 20% castor in almost everything, 4-strokes included. You might see more carbon buildup using all castor, but that cleans up reasonably well with some acetone or a like solvent.

Jim Thomerson

I fly Sig fuel exclusively, and have for years.

Broken Wings

My Feedback: (20)

It's good stuff, actually has some lube in it....

109....someday

My Feedback: (1)

I use Sig 10% nitro 20% all-castor lube for all of my engines except the YS's. I fly mostly "old" plain bearing engines(bushing) OS FP's and K&B Sportsters, I think I'll cry if Sig ever stops making fuel.

1QwkSport2.5r

I almost cried when SIG raised the price of a gallon jug of castor oil from $23/gal to $39/gal! I ended up ordering oil from S&W for $25/gal. Mixed fuel is subject to hazmat fees and the per gallon cost was too high to order a case at a time for me. Sticking with mixing my own fuels.

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

I really like Sig fuel. Wish I didn't (or someone else didn't) have to drive 125 miles one way to get it.

Antares100

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Thanks, guys for your time and knowledge!

TCraft Lover

My Feedback: (1)

Are you still getting your methanol from Lube Tech? You said you purchased oil from S&W. I'm assuming this is not Smith and Wesson! I'm trying to locate sources for methanol and castor to mix my own. My G2300 likes FAI blend but I haven't found any of that for a while.

1QwkSport2.5r

I now get methanol from a gas station in a Red Wing. MUCH cheaper - $2.75/gal versus $6/gal from LubeTech. Hardly worth the drive for you, but there's gotta be an oil company near you that carries it. I'll do some snooping on the net and see if I can find something.

S&W fuels is where I got oil from. Splube.com I believe. I had to call them to order the gallons as the gallon jug prices weren't listed on the website.

TCraft Lover

My Feedback: (1)

Well, you sure are a fuel sleuth! I haven't had much luck finding ingredients.

1QwkSport2.5r

I'm motivated to not spend $40/gal for mixed glow fuel. I couldn't find a methanol supplier by you... At least with a web search through the regional oil company website. I get my methanol from Wilson Oil Company in Red Wing, nitro from Torco through Amazonfor $52/gal and free shipping. It's worthwhile to mix your own up here - my per-gallon cost is over half of store bought fuel. Once I got going with it, I spend about $50/yr replenishing my "stash" on average.

DaveP

I use Sig Champion 25% nitro fuel (mix of Klotz synthetic and castor oils) in my 1/2A engines. Love it! I use Morgan's Omega (mix of Klotz synthetic and castor oils) in larger plain bearing engines and Morgan's Cool Power (Klotz synthetic oil) in all my ballbearing engines, including 4-strokes. I add 4oz per gallon lube (Klotz or Castor as appropriate) to the Morgan fuels to bring up to 20% oil. I have OS FSR 45 ballbearing engines with over 1,000 runs each with no noticeable wear on my oil-enhanced Cool Power fuel. 10% nitro Morgan fuel costs about $17/gal. at my local (30 mi.) hobby shop.

I've bought a lot of used engines off ebay that were stuck with castor oil that's turned to varnish. 4-stroke valve guides and lifters are particularly susceptable to castor varnish. I don't normally use afterrun oil (like Marvel Mystery oil) unless I'm planning on not running the engine for awhile. Religious use of afterrun oil might prevent castor clogging.

-Dave

1QwkSport2.5r

Using an after run oil will prevent the castor goo from turning into solid mass of crud that locks engines up. I use a few drops of my own storage oil which consists of mineral ATF and Seafoam Motor Treatment. I recently dug a can of Fogging oil out of my chemical cabinet to use in my 4-strokes for winter storage. Squirting the fogging oil into the breather fitting and giving it a healthy shot gets into every little spot. I got this idea from Hobbsy and it indeed works well. No rusty cams, cam bearings, or crank bearings. Good stuff.

Antares100

My Feedback: (12)

Thanks guys, still taking in all this info. I appreciate it and hope you all will have a great Holiday Season.
Antares100

MrMotor

The simple answer to your question is Sig makes very good fuels that do not need additional oils.

Antares100

My Feedback: (12)

One more quick question, has anyone tried their "4-stroke" fuels, or does it really make a difference? I understand using a 20% castor oil fuel may cause problems due to the castor gunking up/

1QwkSport2.5r

If stored for a long time, castor will gunk it up. If you oil the engine before storage, it won't gunk up. I use 20% castor in my 4-cycles with no issues. I oil mine up with ATF before storing and they don't get all sticky and froze up. "4-stroke" fuels are a gimmick IMO - most 4-strokes have the same oil requirements (content) as 2-strokes. Just my $.02..

Antares100

My Feedback: (12)

Thanks, 1QwkSport2.5r, I've been trying to catch up on some topics (like engines and how they may have/havenot changed) since 1985. That was when I put up my OS 40FP for storage with some Marvel Mystery Oil after a 2-tank break-in. Still turns fine w/compression. I'm assuming the bushings are ok as there is no friction or scraping I can feel when I turn the prop. I did pick up a .26, .61 and .90 OS 4-stroke. 4-strokes were just coming out when I left the hobby. These are all new and that's why I wanted to know more about SIG fuel, as the 20% castor seemed to be what I needed for the FP's and K&Bs that I have, yet hear about concerns w/castor only on 4-strokes.

1QwkSport2.5r

There are opponents to castor oil and will fight to the death that castor oil will cause every problem known to model engines if you use it in a 4-stroke and frankly that just isn't the case. Special circumstances like YS engines don't lend themselves to liking much castor oil as the castor residue tends to gum up the regulators. Some guys use fuel with castor in it in YS engines and don't have problems but they are likely using fuel with a very small amount of castor in the mix. One may see more carbon buildup in a 4-stroke from using castor so some periodic cleaning may be required but if the engine is run a bit rich, it shouldn't be too bad. Keep in mind my experience is somewhat limited and certainly don't take it as gospel. Best suggestion would be to try it yourself and evaluate the outcome after burning a bit of fuel.

Antares100

My Feedback: (12)

Thanks again, 1QwkSport2.5r !

Antares100

My Feedback: (12)

Thanks again, 1QwkSport2.5r !

1QwkSport2.5r

Sure thing. I run all castor oil in almost every engine I own, even a screaming Jett .35. They don't bat an eye at it plus it smells nicer.

Antares100

My Feedback: (12)

My not-so-local hobby store has the SIG 5% and 10% for a few dollars more than direct from Sig, but helping him stay in business is a no-brainier for me. Now just to decide if I want 5% or 10%. These are new engines I am breaking in.

1QwkSport2.5r

I'd run low or no nitro to run-in engines. No sense wasting expensive nitro to break in an engine. I mix my own fuel so I run 80/20 FAI fuel to break-in and add nitro for regular running. If you're using premixed fuel exclusively, run the 5% to break in. 5% works fine in nearly all engines but 10% will give you 200-300 more rpm over 5% and a bit more Lee-way with the needle.