spaceworm

Removing/replacing the stud does not solve the spinner backplate fit issue with the collar (crankshaft end). May I suggest backing off of removing the stud and using thin wall brass tubing to bring the 6mm (0,240 inch) out to fit the 0.250 inch hole in the props you want to use. You are talking about 0.005 inch radial 0.010 diametrical) clearance between the existing stud and the ID of props you want to use. If 0.250 OD inch tubing with 0.005 inch wall is not available, just wrap a layer of 0.005 inch thick tape around the stud (as someone else suggested) and go with it. I think we are making too much of this issue. Concentrate on getting the spinner backplate to fit with similar approaches. Good luck.

Happy Father's Day to all of you

Best regards,
Richard

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Richard, a cheap set of wind chimes is a good source of various tube sizes which work well for that purpose.

GoNavy

My Feedback: (15)

The prop shaft was a 6mm stud as reported by the MVVS factory rep per post 18 above. Unfortunately, all my efforts to unscrew it were for naught; it finally snapped about 5 threads below the crankshaft end. The local machinist successfully removed the balance, but only by drill the remnant out; An extractor could not do the job. He thought the problem was either corrosion or loctite, but couldn't be sure. Interior or the engine is pristine, probably as result of oiling which might not have been lavished on the exterior.

Thanks fellows, for your time and advice.

GoNavy

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

GN, are you going to install a larger stud, it seems as if the would be doable now.

PS, the guns at Dahlgren shake my my house almost daily, my wife and I are ardent supporters of our Military.

GoNavy

My Feedback: (15)

I will instal a step stud, 6mm into the crank, the remainder at 8mm or 1/4, IF such a stud can be found in the needed length; Otherwise I intend to have the machinist make one.

earlwb

Bummer about that. Sounds like a previous owner used locktite on the stud. Nice you found someone to get it out too.
Yeah you may have to have the stud made. But it would work well for you though.

GoNavy

My Feedback: (15)

Why would prior owner have used loctite if he never ran the engine?

GoNavy

My Feedback: (15)

This needs a 6M right hand threaded end 16 mm long, with the other end threaded 8mm (or it could be 1/4 x 28) with an overall length of 43 to 50mm.
I have searched the web for over 3 hours now and not found such a stud already manufactured.

spaceworm

Neither one of these would work?

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Click For Pricing[/TD]
[TD="class: productListing-data"][h=3]S6X8X23 - Metric Step Stud[/h]Metric Step Stud M6x1.00x8x1.25x23, M6x8x23 Diameter: 8mm to 6mm Pitch: Coarse Thread Overall Length: 23mm Left Thread Length: 11mm Middle Shank...
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Click For Pricing[/TD]
[TD="class: productListing-data"][h=3]S6X8X31 - Metric Step Stud[/h]Metric Step Stud M6x1.00x8x1.25x31, M6x8x31 Diameter: 8mm to 6mm Pitch: Coarse Thread Overall Length: 31mm Left Thread Length: 12mm Middle Shank...
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Good luck.

Sincerely, Richard

GoNavy

My Feedback: (15)

I checked those out from your prior post: the first is only 23mm long, the second 31mm long; we need 45-50mm.

GoNavy

My Feedback: (15)

OR, could I: take a M7 bolt, and cut M6 threads for 16mm using a die, and then cut off the bolt head? (7mm = .275591 inch)
M7 and M6 threads are both 1mm pitch. Has anyone ever done this successfully?

GoNavy

My Feedback: (15)

Prop stud 6M into the crank, 8 x 1.25mm on the other end, by Steve at Dura-Weld in Medford, Wisconsin.