After run oil or Rust?
#51
Boca and a few other sources have literally dozens of differing configurations of bearings....ranging from stupid cheap to outrageous expensive...and IMO most of the online dealers have a real good search for any particular bearing size in both mm and inches... then the results can be sorted by price (and other ways)
You only need to know the outer, inner and width dimensions...in MM or inches... too simple
I use Boca a lot and IMO most of their lower cost bearings are usually a bit better than the factory bearing....not always the case, as some high end builders like PA, Dubb Jet, and Nelson already use about the best there is....but IMO the mass marketed engines all can benefit from a re bearing installation once the break in period has run it's course or anytime an engine was stored improperly
OTOH I have bought several used engines looking just like the OP shows and a good thorough clean yielded a perfectly good running engine with no real problems... not recommended for a racing or other Max performance use...but for most sedate sport flying--- in the (Under Max RPM) typical usage ----even a slightly rusty/pitted bearing set will still provide years of service....Once properly cleaned up
You only need to know the outer, inner and width dimensions...in MM or inches... too simple
I use Boca a lot and IMO most of their lower cost bearings are usually a bit better than the factory bearing....not always the case, as some high end builders like PA, Dubb Jet, and Nelson already use about the best there is....but IMO the mass marketed engines all can benefit from a re bearing installation once the break in period has run it's course or anytime an engine was stored improperly
OTOH I have bought several used engines looking just like the OP shows and a good thorough clean yielded a perfectly good running engine with no real problems... not recommended for a racing or other Max performance use...but for most sedate sport flying--- in the (Under Max RPM) typical usage ----even a slightly rusty/pitted bearing set will still provide years of service....Once properly cleaned up
#52
[QUOTE=1QwkSport2.5r;12282101]Mineral ATF is as petroleum as Kerosene is. If ATF doesn't wreck the o-rings, Kerosene likely won't either. ...
QUOTE]
I use ATF and air tool oil (ATO) half and half in my engines, for end of day and for storage.
However, do not use ANY petroleum product in YS engines because of their silicone components.
Sincerely, Richard
QUOTE]
I use ATF and air tool oil (ATO) half and half in my engines, for end of day and for storage.
However, do not use ANY petroleum product in YS engines because of their silicone components.
Sincerely, Richard
#53
Correction, silicone components such as fuel lines, o-rings and pump diaphragms (YS) ARE affected by petroleum products like kerosene, gasoline, ATF, ATO, etc. Not so with methanol.
#54
Correct, but doubt it would be ruined after just a quick cleaning. Silicon tubing with gas will last for a few days or more.
#55
Boca and a few other sources have literally dozens of differing configurations of bearings....ranging from stupid cheap to outrageous expensive...and IMO most of the online dealers have a real good search for any particular bearing size in both mm and inches... then the results can be sorted by price (and other ways)
You only need to know the outer, inner and width dimensions...in MM or inches... too simple
I use Boca a lot and IMO most of their lower cost bearings are usually a bit better than the factory bearing....not always the case, as some high end builders like PA, Dubb Jet, and Nelson already use about the best there is....but IMO the mass marketed engines all can benefit from a re bearing installation once the break in period has run it's course or anytime an engine was stored improperly
OTOH I have bought several used engines looking just like the OP shows and a good thorough clean yielded a perfectly good running engine with no real problems... not recommended for a racing or other Max performance use...but for most sedate sport flying--- in the (Under Max RPM) typical usage ----even a slightly rusty/pitted bearing set will still provide years of service....Once properly cleaned up
You only need to know the outer, inner and width dimensions...in MM or inches... too simple
I use Boca a lot and IMO most of their lower cost bearings are usually a bit better than the factory bearing....not always the case, as some high end builders like PA, Dubb Jet, and Nelson already use about the best there is....but IMO the mass marketed engines all can benefit from a re bearing installation once the break in period has run it's course or anytime an engine was stored improperly
OTOH I have bought several used engines looking just like the OP shows and a good thorough clean yielded a perfectly good running engine with no real problems... not recommended for a racing or other Max performance use...but for most sedate sport flying--- in the (Under Max RPM) typical usage ----even a slightly rusty/pitted bearing set will still provide years of service....Once properly cleaned up
#56
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Sport pilot........every engine from that estate is gummed up (about 15)and I am unable to turn any of them over, period. As far as using fuel to soak them, I long ago went to gas. A good anti freeze soak would take care of the problem.
I have done anti freeze many times..........then ATF on reassembly and storage.
I have done anti freeze many times..........then ATF on reassembly and storage.
#57
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Hi!
I have had many engines run with castor oil that has had rusty bearings that look as terrible as that one in the picture! So castor oil is not protecting anything. ATF oil is good for storing glow engines though.
Replacing the bearings is easy so why not doing it?!
Bearings that look as terrible (rusty) as that one in the picture cannot be cleaned with anything that I now of (Aceton, kerosene, glow or diesel fuel). Boiling the engine in glycol is not an option that many seems to think. The reason for that is that the ball bearing might get cleaned that way but the balls has already got spots of rust dents that prohibit the engine from developing it's full speed potential. Soo replacing the ball bearings is the only way to do it if they look as bad as the one in the picture...but I'm a pylon racer ...might be that I'm a little too concerned about my engines.
I have had many engines run with castor oil that has had rusty bearings that look as terrible as that one in the picture! So castor oil is not protecting anything. ATF oil is good for storing glow engines though.
Replacing the bearings is easy so why not doing it?!
Bearings that look as terrible (rusty) as that one in the picture cannot be cleaned with anything that I now of (Aceton, kerosene, glow or diesel fuel). Boiling the engine in glycol is not an option that many seems to think. The reason for that is that the ball bearing might get cleaned that way but the balls has already got spots of rust dents that prohibit the engine from developing it's full speed potential. Soo replacing the ball bearings is the only way to do it if they look as bad as the one in the picture...but I'm a pylon racer ...might be that I'm a little too concerned about my engines.
I bought this motor for a very important Plane I'll be building this winter, it is irreplaceable, and I won't chance this plane with a rusty motor.
#58
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Have any of you guys tried Remington gun lube? I had a tower hobbies pro 46 that was super gummy after 6 years of storage, I put a few good drops down the carb throat and a few drops down the head, after spinning the prop around 15 times the motor freed up.
#59
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This is one of my OS 46ax, this motor has run at least 150+ flights on my Twist 40, this motor has been in a drawer for the last 6 years, at the time my family was in crisis after the death of my mother in law so I literally just chucked it in a drawer with no after run oil or ATF, considering that, it doesn't look to bad at all though I think the front bearing is shot by the way it feels.
Last edited by Dealspeed; 12-01-2016 at 09:51 PM.
#62
Yup. Take up stock in a bearing company. I've gotten a lot of engines this past year. I was replacing so many bearings, I started using ultra cheap ones from AvidRC. They work as well as the $12-15 sets from the big name bearing outfits. Don't be surprised having to replace bearings in newer OS engines. They're notorious for having bearings going to pot much sooner than others.
#63
This is one of my OS 46ax, this motor has run at least 150+ flights on my Twist 40, this motor has been in a drawer for the last 6 years, at the time my family was in crisis after the death of my mother in law so I literally just chucked it in a drawer with no after run oil or ATF, considering that, it doesn't look to bad at all though I think the front bearing is shot by the way it feels.
I have never seen an engine look so badly rusted in in over 60 years or running them. Did a rust monkey take a crap in it?. I wonder what your criteria for "not looking to bad at all" is? I suggest you change out both bearing with something better than OS. JMHO though.
Sincerely, Richard
AMA 861960
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180; YS F 120;
Super Champion 61; Rhino 100; Cameron 19; Fox 35, K&B 29, 35, 40, 65;
Como .91; ASP .91, 1.08; Kraft 61; OS 15, 25, 40, 46, 60, 61, 80; HB 15, 25, 61;
Royal 25; Evolution 36, 46, 61; Echo 16cc glow; Echo 22 cc Ign.
Zenoah G23 ECDI, Ryobi 31, Ryobi four stroke, O&R Industrial 1 hp,
Allpina A330, Various Poulan, Weedeater, and Homelite, etc, etc.
#65
Now the question for me to ask is: If these engines had been run with all-synthetic fuel, would the bearings still be good sitting for a few years? I know Cool Power (and other fuel brands) have rust inhibitors blended in the fuel.
Also, how much better are stainless steel bearings regarding the rust issue? I know stainless steel bearings used to be softer metal in the past, but bearing sellers claim that that is no longer an issue.
Also, how much better are stainless steel bearings regarding the rust issue? I know stainless steel bearings used to be softer metal in the past, but bearing sellers claim that that is no longer an issue.
Last edited by hsukaria; 12-02-2016 at 08:05 AM.
#66
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I've always ran cool power, used Byron's a couple times and didn't like all the castor oil stains on the outside of the motor.
My 46 has cleaned nicely, bearings are perfect and more than usable, will post pics when I get home from work
My 46 has cleaned nicely, bearings are perfect and more than usable, will post pics when I get home from work
#67
Originally Posted by Dealspeed
"I've always ran cool power, used Byron's a couple times and didn't like all the castor oil stains on the outside of the motor. My 46 has cleaned nicely, bearings are perfect and more than usable, will post pics when I get home from work"
Dear Professional Expert, what do you say now about "congealed castor oil."?
I look forward to the pics of the cleaned engines inside when Dealspeed posts them.
#68
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Should be able to post them in a couple hours, it really did clean up nicely, better than I thought it would, I was certain that I'd be replacing bearings but they feel smooth as silk now.
This is What I did to clean the motor, I brought it to work with me completely disassembled and soaked it in my paint gun cleaning tank full of clean Acetone, I let everything soak for about 6 hours, I removed the rubber gaskets before doing this just in case.
After the 6 hour soak I started scrubbing everything down with a fine steel brush and scotch Brite, worked great.
This is What I did to clean the motor, I brought it to work with me completely disassembled and soaked it in my paint gun cleaning tank full of clean Acetone, I let everything soak for about 6 hours, I removed the rubber gaskets before doing this just in case.
After the 6 hour soak I started scrubbing everything down with a fine steel brush and scotch Brite, worked great.
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Did a rust monkey take a crap in it?.
Sincerely, Richard
AMA 861960
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180; YS F 120;
Super Champion 61; Rhino 100; Cameron 19; Fox 35, K&B 29, 35, 40, 65;
Como .91; ASP .91, 1.08; Kraft 61; OS 15, 25, 40, 46, 60, 61, 80; HB 15, 25, 61;
Royal 25; Evolution 36, 46, 61; Echo 16cc glow; Echo 22 cc Ign.
Zenoah G23 ECDI, Ryobi 31, Ryobi four stroke, O&R Industrial 1 hp,
Allpina A330, Various Poulan, Weedeater, and Homelite, etc, etc.
Sincerely, Richard
AMA 861960
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180; YS F 120;
Super Champion 61; Rhino 100; Cameron 19; Fox 35, K&B 29, 35, 40, 65;
Como .91; ASP .91, 1.08; Kraft 61; OS 15, 25, 40, 46, 60, 61, 80; HB 15, 25, 61;
Royal 25; Evolution 36, 46, 61; Echo 16cc glow; Echo 22 cc Ign.
Zenoah G23 ECDI, Ryobi 31, Ryobi four stroke, O&R Industrial 1 hp,
Allpina A330, Various Poulan, Weedeater, and Homelite, etc, etc.
Last edited by the pope; 12-02-2016 at 05:43 PM.
#70
Thanks. I don't always write good humor, but when I do I drink glow fuel on the rocks. Happy Holidays and Good Cheer to You and Yours. (you do have holidays there down under, right?) Sincerely, Richard
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yes we do there worm . The Gov. hasnt stopped us having holidays yet but they would like the workers to work on x-mas day for 1/2 pay . There good like that . Have a merry x-mas to u as well . Cheers
#72
Originally Posted by Dealspeed
"I've always ran cool power, used Byron's a couple times and didn't like all the castor oil stains on the outside of the motor. My 46 has cleaned nicely, bearings are perfect and more than usable, will post pics when I get home from work"
Dear Professional Expert, what do you say now about "congealed castor oil."?
I look forward to the pics of the cleaned engines inside when Dealspeed posts them.
"I've always ran cool power, used Byron's a couple times and didn't like all the castor oil stains on the outside of the motor. My 46 has cleaned nicely, bearings are perfect and more than usable, will post pics when I get home from work"
Dear Professional Expert, what do you say now about "congealed castor oil."?
I look forward to the pics of the cleaned engines inside when Dealspeed posts them.