After run oil or Rust?
#101
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (17)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Post Falls Idaho
Posts: 880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The bearing with plastic cover is a "sealed" bearing and the one with the metal cover is a shielded bearing. You want to make sure that enough oil gets to the front bearing. If those seals are going to prevent oil from soaking the front bearing, then I would take the rear side seal out. I don't have any way of telling if the seal will prevent oil from entering the bearing or not. So your call.
#102
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#103
If it is sealed on both sides then it will have grease in the bearing. If shields then it doesn't matter because the oil will get past the shield, so I would not waste my time, it should work either way.
#104
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 24 Likes
on
24 Posts
It will go right through the seals also, Deal, some engines come with the front seals removed, that sounds wrong and backwards but it really works, I've never seen one with a dirty bearing. Fox, MVVS OPS come to mind.
#105
My Feedback: (3)
I would have run the engine first. You never know how much one will smooth out once the gunk is burned off. The upside is you get to keep all those nicely mated parts together if it isn't excessive rust.
You're right Dave, and I know it, but it sure *seems* wrong to run an engine with the shields removed.
You're right Dave, and I know it, but it sure *seems* wrong to run an engine with the shields removed.
#106
#108
If the engine came from the factory with the front seal/shield in place and rear seal/shield removed on the front bearing, where is the hurt in installing the new bearing in the same fashion? I personally feel a lot better about having that seal/shield in place out front than not.
Last edited by 1QwkSport2.5r; 12-06-2016 at 12:21 PM.
#109
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (17)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Post Falls Idaho
Posts: 880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If the engine came from the factory with the front seal/shield in place and rear seal/shield removed on the front bearing, where is the hurt in installing the new bearing in the same fashion? I personally feel a lot better about having that seal/shield in place out front than not.
#110
Bearings have a much lower rpm limit (before skidding) when lubricated by grease. They have a higher "redline" when oil lubricated.
I for one always use a front shield or seal. It gives me peace of mind. YMMV.
I for one always use a front shield or seal. It gives me peace of mind. YMMV.
#111
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (17)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Post Falls Idaho
Posts: 880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just for the hell of it, I'm going to remove the shield on the front bearing of my GMS 47, I'll chuck it on the test stand after and see how it runs, I just have to know if it's effected at all.
#112
The front bearing would benefit from having a shield on the front face to reduce oil leaking out. The old engines didn't have the shielded front bearings, maybe because they weren't available? You had to live with fuel oozing all over. I get that with my old Fox engines.
#114
#115
The front bearing would benefit from having a shield on the front face to reduce oil leaking out. The old engines didn't have the shielded front bearings, maybe because they weren't available? You had to live with fuel oozing all over. I get that with my old Fox engines.
#116
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (17)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Post Falls Idaho
Posts: 880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok. So the engine that prompted me to start this thread is all wrapped up, I ended up replacing the bearings and piston ring, so I noticed after putting it back together that there was a strange clicking sound, this was happening when the piston was outside of the top of the stroke, so I pull the back plate off and pull the glow plug out, after a minute it was apparent that the con rod had a tiny bit of play, this just isn't right is it?
I see this being a problem, am I right to think so?
On a side note, I went through hell getting the con rod disconnected from the crank, something that is normally very easy.
I see this being a problem, am I right to think so?
On a side note, I went through hell getting the con rod disconnected from the crank, something that is normally very easy.
Last edited by Dealspeed; 12-11-2016 at 01:24 PM.
#117
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 24 Likes
on
24 Posts
Normal most of the time, remember that the clearance in the big and wrist pin end is exaggerated at tdc and bdc because the crankpin is moving more sideways than up or down. Your big end fit looks good.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 12-11-2016 at 02:33 PM.