Notices
Glow Engines Discuss RC glow engines

After run oil or Rust?

Old 12-05-2016, 06:37 PM
  #101  
Dealspeed
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (17)
 
Dealspeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Post Falls Idaho
Posts: 880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by hsukaria
The bearing with plastic cover is a "sealed" bearing and the one with the metal cover is a shielded bearing. You want to make sure that enough oil gets to the front bearing. If those seals are going to prevent oil from soaking the front bearing, then I would take the rear side seal out. I don't have any way of telling if the seal will prevent oil from entering the bearing or not. So your call.
I don't think oil will be able to penetrate the front bearing, so I will be removing one of the seals.
Old 12-06-2016, 02:44 AM
  #102  
Nitrovein
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Dealspeed
I don't think oil will be able to penetrate the front bearing, so I will be removing one of the seals.
It will penetrate, it's a shield not a seal on these bearings, no matter if it's metal or rubber.
Old 12-06-2016, 04:42 AM
  #103  
Sport_Pilot
 
Sport_Pilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 16,916
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

If it is sealed on both sides then it will have grease in the bearing. If shields then it doesn't matter because the oil will get past the shield, so I would not waste my time, it should work either way.
Old 12-06-2016, 04:51 AM
  #104  
Hobbsy
My Feedback: (102)
 
Hobbsy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 24 Likes on 24 Posts
Default

It will go right through the seals also, Deal, some engines come with the front seals removed, that sounds wrong and backwards but it really works, I've never seen one with a dirty bearing. Fox, MVVS OPS come to mind.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Front bearings (Small).jpg
Views:	52
Size:	56.2 KB
ID:	2192409  
Old 12-06-2016, 10:07 AM
  #105  
blw
My Feedback: (3)
 
blw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Opelika, AL
Posts: 9,447
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

I would have run the engine first. You never know how much one will smooth out once the gunk is burned off. The upside is you get to keep all those nicely mated parts together if it isn't excessive rust.

You're right Dave, and I know it, but it sure *seems* wrong to run an engine with the shields removed.
Old 12-06-2016, 10:10 AM
  #106  
hsukaria
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 3,216
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Sport_Pilot
If it is sealed on both sides then it will have grease in the bearing. If shields then it doesn't matter because the oil will get past the shield, so I would not waste my time, it should work either way.

good to know
Old 12-06-2016, 10:52 AM
  #107  
Dealspeed
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (17)
 
Dealspeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Post Falls Idaho
Posts: 880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I did remove the inner shield, it certainly won't hurt anything to have done so.
Old 12-06-2016, 12:18 PM
  #108  
1QwkSport2.5r
 
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 10,409
Received 76 Likes on 69 Posts
Default

If the engine came from the factory with the front seal/shield in place and rear seal/shield removed on the front bearing, where is the hurt in installing the new bearing in the same fashion? I personally feel a lot better about having that seal/shield in place out front than not.

Last edited by 1QwkSport2.5r; 12-06-2016 at 12:21 PM.
Old 12-06-2016, 12:51 PM
  #109  
Dealspeed
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (17)
 
Dealspeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Post Falls Idaho
Posts: 880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
If the engine came from the factory with the front seal/shield in place and rear seal/shield removed on the front bearing, where is the hurt in installing the new bearing in the same fashion? I personally feel a lot better about having that seal/shield in place out front than not.
That's exactly how I felt, the stock front bearing had no shield on the back side of the bearing, seemed right to me to remove it and just have the outer shield in place
Old 12-06-2016, 04:13 PM
  #110  
1QwkSport2.5r
 
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 10,409
Received 76 Likes on 69 Posts
Default

Bearings have a much lower rpm limit (before skidding) when lubricated by grease. They have a higher "redline" when oil lubricated.

I for one always use a front shield or seal. It gives me peace of mind. YMMV.
Old 12-06-2016, 04:28 PM
  #111  
Dealspeed
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (17)
 
Dealspeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Post Falls Idaho
Posts: 880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

just for the hell of it, I'm going to remove the shield on the front bearing of my GMS 47, I'll chuck it on the test stand after and see how it runs, I just have to know if it's effected at all.
Old 12-06-2016, 04:57 PM
  #112  
hsukaria
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 3,216
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

The front bearing would benefit from having a shield on the front face to reduce oil leaking out. The old engines didn't have the shielded front bearings, maybe because they weren't available? You had to live with fuel oozing all over. I get that with my old Fox engines.
Old 12-06-2016, 05:01 PM
  #113  
Gizmo-RCU
My Feedback: (27)
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Athol, ID
Posts: 2,155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Shielded bearings have been around forever, like me. Same discussions now as years ago! I always removed the inner on the front and both from the rear. Always has worked well for me.
Old 12-06-2016, 05:58 PM
  #114  
hsukaria
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 3,216
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Gizmo-RCU
Shielded bearings have been around forever, like me. Same discussions now as years ago! I always removed the inner on the front and both from the rear. Always has worked well for me.

That's what I was trying to say, but not as eloquently as you said it.
Old 12-07-2016, 04:35 AM
  #115  
Sport_Pilot
 
Sport_Pilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 16,916
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by hsukaria
The front bearing would benefit from having a shield on the front face to reduce oil leaking out. The old engines didn't have the shielded front bearings, maybe because they weren't available? You had to live with fuel oozing all over. I get that with my old Fox engines.
Some older engines use a spiral on the shaft in front of the induction port to screw the oil back into the engine. Those probably did not need a shield.
Old 12-11-2016, 12:38 PM
  #116  
Dealspeed
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (17)
 
Dealspeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Post Falls Idaho
Posts: 880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Ok. So the engine that prompted me to start this thread is all wrapped up, I ended up replacing the bearings and piston ring, so I noticed after putting it back together that there was a strange clicking sound, this was happening when the piston was outside of the top of the stroke, so I pull the back plate off and pull the glow plug out, after a minute it was apparent that the con rod had a tiny bit of play, this just isn't right is it?
I see this being a problem, am I right to think so?
On a side note, I went through hell getting the con rod disconnected from the crank, something that is normally very easy.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0206.JPG
Views:	67
Size:	549.8 KB
ID:	2193138  

Last edited by Dealspeed; 12-11-2016 at 01:24 PM.
Old 12-11-2016, 02:11 PM
  #117  
Hobbsy
My Feedback: (102)
 
Hobbsy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 24 Likes on 24 Posts
Default

Normal most of the time, remember that the clearance in the big and wrist pin end is exaggerated at tdc and bdc because the crankpin is moving more sideways than up or down. Your big end fit looks good.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 12-11-2016 at 02:33 PM.
Old 12-11-2016, 08:05 PM
  #118  
GREG DOE
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: , TN
Posts: 892
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 23 Posts
Default

The click is common, and quite normal. It looks good.
Old 12-12-2016, 08:07 AM
  #119  
Dealspeed
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (17)
 
Dealspeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Post Falls Idaho
Posts: 880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Yea it's basically new again

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.