Calvinman

I have two 10 though head gaskets for a super tiger 40 that are just shy of fitting, I am cooling the head(to -16 deg C) as we speak and when it is cooled I will heat the gaskets to 350 degrees F and see if things will fit, if not I will have to figure out how to remove next to nothing from the gasket ID.

1QwkSport2.5r

Got a dremel and fine sanding drum? Run high speed and just kiss it lightly. Using heat to expand them may cause problems with the head sealing because when it cools it will distort slightly being undersized. I would highly recommend having the head shims being a slip fit.

hsukaria

Hi Dave, I see you changed back to Hobbsy.

Calvinman

Good point Tim, it will get all wiggely wont it. I dont have my dremel here, I might have to use a fine round file and lots of patients

1QwkSport2.5r

That could work, or you could shave it down little by little with a utility knife or Xacto knife. Either way you will need to be patient. I cut my own head shims all the time - I cut from brass sheet and just use Scissors for the outside and a sharp ass blade for the inside. The flimsy .001" and .002" shim stock is hard if not impossible to use a machine on, but thicker stuff like .004-.005" can be dremeled.

Calvinman

I have been spinning the shims on a curl of sand cloth for the last hour and a half and one shim will just start to slip on. Another hour and I'll be done

Calvinman

Tadaa! oh well I cant seem to upload the pic.

Calvinman

Me and shim stock don't get along to well Tim, but if I had to I was going to give it a try.

Calvinman

Boy, this engine does not like to be run rich, as soon as you fatten up the top end it dies. I wish I would have picked up a miracle plug or a OS-f now, but they looked too long. It does run more like a lower compression motor now, with flip starts when cold but not enough compression when warmed up and I have to use the electric. Yesterday I could hand start it now matter if it was warmed up or stone cold. Oh well I will run it a few more times and when I get another chance to run it indoors( a couple of weeks) I will try a different plug.

Calvi

1QwkSport2.5r

Sounds like the glow plug pooped out. It should handle running rich easily without quitting. Forget about the Four-stroke plugs. They aren't going to do any better - try an Enya 3 or McCoy MC59, or Merlin red. Is the plug the engine has been running on a factory part or no?

Calvinman

The plug is an OS #8, not sure what the recomended plug is. I think I downloaded an MDS users manual, I will have a look. It is the second plug to be in this engine since I have owned it. I will change it out and see if things are better.

Calvi

Calvinman

Your MDS engine comes complete with a long reach glow plug
with idle bar. These plugs are designed for break-in only, and it’s
common for these plugs to burn out within several runs of the
engine. Their use should provide you with quick starts and a reliable
idle during the break-in process. The stock break-in MDS glow
plug may be replaced with Hangar 9’s economy plug (HAN3005) or
2-cycle performance plug (HAN3000).

This is for the pro series, not sure what mine is, but it is running very reliably now, I will swap out the glow plug for next run. I can only run it for 2 minutes or so as the smoke build up gets excessive.

Calvinman

Changed the plug, it now idles stronger and the high end needle acts more like it should, I can now take to peak and richen it up to drop the rpms a tad. before it was like an on/off switch Thanks Tim, I think we may have it!!

Calvi

1QwkSport2.5r

Awesome. Glad to hear she's running better.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Yes sir, I did, I lost a lot of pictures and posts when I changed, now I have them all back.

I remember that the Fox Miracle was the making of the MDS engines, I only have a .58 left and it is well used, maybe even real well used, Still with great compression.

hsukaria

Running a hot glowplug is what you need for low nitro engine. The Fox Miracle plug is in that category.

Is the Miracle plug still being produced?

1QwkSport2.5r

I'd opt for a hotter standard long reach plug over a medium/hot 4-stroke plug... But that's just me. The Miracle plug was not a miracle for me. The OS F isn't either. The Fox idle bar plug is stellar in 4-strokes though.

Calvinman

One thing for sure, at around 10$ a pop (Canadian) I have to make my choices carefully. I am now looking forward to some flying weather, only 2 or 3 three months to go'

On another note, I have been using air tool oil as after run oil and I find it not too bad, but it still makes the first start of the day difficult sometimes making it necessary to use the electric starter. When I started flying I would use WD40 and it would run on it so I would just idle it on the WD by shooting it into the carb throat until I felt the fuel was flushed out. The next time I went out hand flipping was never a problem. I tried using the WD40 trick when I got back into the hobby a few years back and the engines would not run on it. It turns out back in the day Butane or some kind of "tane was used as a propellant and that is what the motor was running on.

I tend to use 8 or 9 drops instead of the recommended 4 or 5 drops of after run oil, I hope this is not shortening the life of my glowplugs. I noticed that before I ran the motor the plug that was in it was completely drowned with oil(it was in deep storage for the winter though) but I wicked most of the out by rolling a piece of TP to a point a few times.

Calvi

aspeed

I never use after run oil unless I use more than 10% fuel. No problems yet. I do check over my motors quickly every year or so. I used to use 3 in 1 years ago, and found a motor that was only turned over half way yearly. The bearings seemed free so I figured all was fine. The oil coagulated and dried up on the piston/cyl so much that it could not turn over. It was a dried varnish. It was very hard to remove. The motor only had one run on it, so it was not the castor. You can see why I am against after run oil now. With high nitro and steel sleeves, ARO is ok if checked yearly? Not 30 years like that one neglected motor. (OS .29 "speed", hardly speedy with a baffled cast iron piston) I hear you with the $10 glow plugs. I am guessing you have a 13% HST like us in Ontario.

Calvinman

High taxes for sure, I try not to think about it If I didn't believe in supporting our local Hobby Shops I would order from out of province and save the provincial tax at least. I Know the heartache of trying to free up a motor that has been forgotten for too long. I did not know that other oil residues would varnish up like Castor, that is good to know. I usually put my engines that are in long term storage into a freezer bag full of oil and then into a Tupperware container, I hate rust!

aspeed

I have not really had a rust problem, maybe some spots on the crank which were exposed to air. Mostly I have ABC, but lots of Cox stuff and older lapped stuff too.