Fuel regulator and pump
#1
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Fuel regulator and pump
Since the Cline demand fuelregulator is no longer available I am contemplating building a fewfor my own and some friends use. The more I make the cheaper theybecome. My question is how much interest isstill left for a small market for these?. I am only interested inhelping me support my hobby, not making a large income.
The regulator will work exactlylike the Cline did Which is nothing more than the metering valve froma Walbro carburetor. I will use all genuine Walbro parts which arereadily available at most small engine shops. The main body will beCNC machined aluminum and anodized rather than plastic. The hosefittings will be screw in brass hose barb's.
If I could sell 50 of these theycould sell for $45.00 ea.
I am also considering a pulse typefuel pump also using a Walbro diaphragm.
Please let me know what you think.
Thanks Ray
The regulator will work exactlylike the Cline did Which is nothing more than the metering valve froma Walbro carburetor. I will use all genuine Walbro parts which arereadily available at most small engine shops. The main body will beCNC machined aluminum and anodized rather than plastic. The hosefittings will be screw in brass hose barb's.
If I could sell 50 of these theycould sell for $45.00 ea.
I am also considering a pulse typefuel pump also using a Walbro diaphragm.
Please let me know what you think.
Thanks Ray
#2
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http://alburyrcmodels.com.au/product...cfs-regulator/
http://www.ironbaymodelcompany.com/i...es/Page438.htm
It appears that the Cline is still available. I recently purchased an Ironbay Regulator @ $43.95+$8.00 shipping.
PS, I you do this, I'll buy the first one.
http://www.ironbaymodelcompany.com/i...es/Page438.htm
It appears that the Cline is still available. I recently purchased an Ironbay Regulator @ $43.95+$8.00 shipping.
PS, I you do this, I'll buy the first one.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 02-03-2017 at 05:04 AM.
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I did this before Cline came outwith his regulator. Just tear down the carburetor and band saw or hacksaw off the metering portion, plug unneeded holes, drill and press in 1/8 od brass tube for hose nipples. Use red Loctite to assure a permanent seal. The same goes for the pump side if wanted.
Someone who understands the carburetor should have no problem figuring it out. Other brands carburetors can be used. I have used a Tillotson with good results.Check the video posted by gryocptr.
The reason for a regulator is you can place the fuel tank anywhere you want and the mixture will not change from full to empty tank. One result is same idle speed from takeoff to landing.
I see the Cline is advertised for$90 !!!!. If I can sell 50 units I could sell for $45 ea. I am close to making a decision.
Thanks Ray
Someone who understands the carburetor should have no problem figuring it out. Other brands carburetors can be used. I have used a Tillotson with good results.Check the video posted by gryocptr.
The reason for a regulator is you can place the fuel tank anywhere you want and the mixture will not change from full to empty tank. One result is same idle speed from takeoff to landing.
I see the Cline is advertised for$90 !!!!. If I can sell 50 units I could sell for $45 ea. I am close to making a decision.
Thanks Ray
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Another benefit is that you can set the HS needle closer to peak because there is no need to worry about mixture leaning as the tank empties. As you said in a different set of words.
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Count me in.
I have three planes using Cline regulators.
In one case, it was essential where the tank centerline was above the carb; Without the regulator, there would have been siphoning.
Perhaps you could post a note about status?
I have three planes using Cline regulators.
In one case, it was essential where the tank centerline was above the carb; Without the regulator, there would have been siphoning.
Perhaps you could post a note about status?
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I did not get enough response to justify the initial investment to produce these. If you can't find a
Cline you could build one from an old carb. Hacksaw or bandsaw off the regulating portion. Plug unused holes and install inlet and outlet barbs. 1/8" OD brass tube red Locktited in a 1/8" drill hole works well for fuel inlet and outlet.
Ray
Cline you could build one from an old carb. Hacksaw or bandsaw off the regulating portion. Plug unused holes and install inlet and outlet barbs. 1/8" OD brass tube red Locktited in a 1/8" drill hole works well for fuel inlet and outlet.
Ray
#18
The uniflow tank setup (carb line, vent line, exhaust pressure clunk line) was designed for non-RC applications - control line, free flight, etc. If you fly RC at WOT all the time, it works fine. If you use the throttle at all, it rarely works correctly due to the behavior shown above. But please Jan, enlighten us.
I tried many times to make a uniflow work with an RC carburetor to no avail. I tried a Perry regulated pump with the same less than stellar results. Poor idle (too rich), burbly midrange, etc. I tried a T-fitting to add a return line to the tank and obtained no better results. SO.... I went back to a standard 2-line fuel system and haven't looked back on my boats. I will continue to do the same on my fuel planes as well.
Last edited by 1QwkSport2.5r; 11-04-2017 at 05:26 AM.
#19
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Hi!
Pressure from the silencer to the short fuel tubing with clunk inside the tank. The longer line with clunk goes to the carb.
It will not load up in any way!
Have used it in many planes for more than two decades both in twin engined planes as well as in sport plane where perfect throttling is important.
Pressure from the silencer to the short fuel tubing with clunk inside the tank. The longer line with clunk goes to the carb.
It will not load up in any way!
Have used it in many planes for more than two decades both in twin engined planes as well as in sport plane where perfect throttling is important.
#20
Hi!
Pressure from the silencer to the short fuel tubing with clunk inside the tank. The longer line with clunk goes to the carb.
It will not load up in any way!
Have used it in many planes for more than two decades both in twin engined planes as well as in sport plane where perfect throttling is important.
Pressure from the silencer to the short fuel tubing with clunk inside the tank. The longer line with clunk goes to the carb.
It will not load up in any way!
Have used it in many planes for more than two decades both in twin engined planes as well as in sport plane where perfect throttling is important.
#23
if this fuel system was as great as some say it is, engine orientation should not matter. I have had poor results from it and will not use it or recommend it to anyone flying RC. Sorry bud - it's a dud for me. Your planes do look nice though.
Last edited by 1QwkSport2.5r; 11-11-2017 at 08:02 AM.
#25
I can't afford those kinds of tanks anyway. I have one Tettra 10oz bladder tank that I got from a friend, but it cost me; and I've made my own bladder tanks using small 6oz clear bottles and baby bottle liners - much cheaper and worked as well. They do work well, but if fuel draw is the problem, a bladder tank or 3-line -UniFlow- tank is not going to cure the problem.