CJKling

My Feedback: (1)

When I torque down the prop nut with a prop on, the engine is very hard to turn. Am I missing a washer or something? It's been a while - go easy on me.

the pope

Yes between the hub and the bearing . Just had a look at your pic . Is that not a washer against the bearing ? Just had another look , have u replaced that front bearing . It looks pretty deep in the case there . Perhaps it was replaced with a thinner one and therefore even with the washer its still will bind .

suburban95

My Feedback: (9)

Not sure it's been awhile since I took my 46FX apart but just looking at your pictures it looks to me like that's the wrong prop drive washer. The drive washer shown has a plain hole in it while the crankshaft has a flat spot on it that the drive washer is supposed to sit against. If the shaft would be totally round then there would be a split collet on the shaft that would tighten around the shaft and the drive washer to lock them together.

1QwkSport2.5r

The front bearing should be flush with the edge of the crankcase. I'm with the Pope on this one - I think the front bearing looks a little narrow. Also, there IS supposed to be a spacer washer behind the prop driver.

jaka

Hi!
And the bearing looks awfully rusty!

Sport_Pilot

I think it is not rusty but has a brown plastic cage.

1QwkSport2.5r

It's grease I'll bet. That bearing has a crimped steel ball cage. The brown spots (what I suspect is grease) is between the balls. To me the bearing looks fine other than being narrower than I'd like to see. Using an extra spacer washer to prevent the prop driver from having interference with the crankcase would be the immediate answer with replacing the bearing with a wider one and using the proper spacer behind the prop driver would be the better solution IMO.

jmaderoy

The open R6 bearing is thinner than the shielded R6 ZZ an sealed R6 2RS bearings. (0.2188" open vs. 0.2812" ZZ/2RS)

Scroll down to "R Inch Series:
https://www.bearingworks.com/bearing-sizes/

Best regards,

Johan

tony0707

You are missing a cone shaped cylinder that the thrust washer jams against that goes over the crank behind the thrust washer
The bearing looks as it should

Enjoy

jaka

Hi!
The drive washer is supposed to have a flat side on the inside that fits against a flat side on the crank surface, at least that is what the drive washer and crank look like on my FX .40. Aah I looked closer and saw you had the correct drive washer with the flat sided inner part.
Soo the culprit is the wrong ball bearing.

wnewbury

Everyone wants a strong running engine and bearing engines certainly do well. I think bushing engines have a place and enjoy flying my old FPs and LAs and Sportsters. Are any new bushing engines available now?

Lou Crane

CJ,
Presuming you have the rest of the carb bits, the prop washer and prop nut are missing. The keyed prop driver washer and steel spacer are there, but not the things out front of the prop.

Anything else? The washer and prop nut should be standard enough that pieces sold with the later AX, or whatever, will fit.

the pope

Yes the hub should have a flat spot on it as Jaka said . I just went and looked at mine so thats a definite . I was looking at the engine and not the hub . Still unsure about the bearing though so get the right hub before u go any further . Am I correct did Tim and me agree on something ? Whats the world coming to ?

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

I just took in a 46 FX for rebuild, the owner left it for a few years and its locked up solid from running castor synthetic blend. Soaking it in fuel will free it up but it will get new bearings if everything checks out when I get it apart. I have taken some pictures and hope it will help you out.

Yours shows an open bearing and if you look at your second picture you will see that the outside bearing is quite recessed in the nose of the crankcase. Look to the first picture and you will see the relationship of how the bearing should be including the dust cover/metal seal. The bearing is an R6Z. There are cheaper bearing suppliers but I have never had a wrong bearing from Bocca Bearings.

The second picture from the side shows that the bearing outer race, shield and inner race are actually a shade proud of the nose of the crankcase. Look at yours again it seems shallow and inside the crankcase.

If the bearing is indeed thinner than what is supposed to be there your prop drive washer even with the thrust washer installed may be up against the crankcase as in the third picture causing the fit to interfere when the prop is snugged up.

The fourth picture shows a 1 mm space when the prop is tightened allowing enough clearance for a good running fit.

Some remove the inside shield on the nose bearing but the ones I have taken apart no longer have them removed as the bearing is supposed to be lubed for life.

When you replace bearings press the bearings only by the outer race when you can. Nose bearing first then the rear bearing. I have had to press the rear onto the crankshaft then use the crankshaft and nose bearing to align the rear bearing in the crankcase. Try not to tap the bearing in place as blows can burnel the races and balls. Instead you can use a drill press and a short rod to press against the rear portion of the crank until bearing and crank are fully seated.

The crank has two flats and the Prop Thrust Washer will have 2 corresponding flats inside.

Dennis

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

Prop thrust washer showing the 2 flats.

1QwkSport2.5r

Yes, we do agree on some things. I'm not a *completely* hateable guy.

CJKling

My Feedback: (1)

Lots of good replies here, thank you all, you guys are awesome.

So a few things:

Yes there is a flat on the hub that corresponds to that on the crank. I do have a prop nut and prop washer, they're just not in the photos. It sounds like a suspect bearing, and I will look into ordering and replacing. There is also a thrust washer in the picture, although it is a bit dark.

Anybody have a link to the specific Boca bearing I need? Seems like there are several options...

Thanks again to all for your help.

the pope

I get mine from rc bearings and usually theres a link to your specific engine or if not send a email and they will get back to u .Dont worry about getting stainless ones usually the cheapest ones are good enough . Despite what worm says mine has only 1 flat on the crank and the hub . Tim your ok , despite our differing points of view on somethings your alright . I dont know why some people think if you disagree that the friendship goes out the window ( Im not referring to you here Tim ) .

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

Go to the Boca Bearing web site in the search bar type in FX 46 and all the bearing kits will be displayed. You do not have a ringed version so eliminate those. These are kits with both front and rear bearings do yourself a favor and replace them both. 11 dollars is the cheapest they work fine and are very similar to the stock set. I like to replace mine with the mid grade as ceramic don't do anything for any of the fliers I rebuild for. Any questions at all call them they are great and even if your unsure they will gladly talk you through what you need.

Dennis

1QwkSport2.5r

I'm tough when it comes to engines. Some I like and some I don't like. Regardless, I'll still help a guy out if I can even if the engine they are working with isn't a barn burner in my book. I do like my chrome. .

To the OP - RCBearings.com is cheaper than Boca for identical or better quality than Boca.

CJKling

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks again guys!

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

There are many bearing suppliers which all of course resell the same products. Several things come into play cost of a few dollars is only one factor. If my local supplier can match up the bearings and he has them in stock or a day away and time is more important than saving a few dollars he gets the nod. I remember one time rebuilding a fellow’s Saito at a Scale Nationals between rounds when his engine suffered a bearing failure. The local supplier was branch of my home town supplier and was only open till noon. He had the bearings in stock and would hang around an extra hour so the fellow’s wife could pick up and pay for them. Cost was twice what I would have paid for them through Boca. The fellow never missed a round and went on to finish ahead of me. We laugh about this even today. Do you think saving a few bucks on a bearing set made any difference to him?

My personal preference engine manufacturer wise plays no part when i rebuild an engine for someone. I do the best I can in a reasonable time frame without comment on someones choice of engine.

I use Boca because the price is reasonable and I have a choice which level of bearing I need. They always have had what I needed in stock and shipping to my mailbox in the US has been fast. This gets me or my customers back in the air in as short a time as I can manage.

REALITY CHECK since none of these resellers manufactures their own stock and simply resells from the same few manufactures out there saying one has better quality than the other is plain and simply false.

Pick one, any one most likely you cannot go wrong. Yours is probably a one or two times buy so good chances you will have luck with which ever one you choose. If on the other hand you are constantly rebuilding someone else’s stuff you will settle on one you are most comfortable with. Doesn’t make them better or worse than the next supplier.

Dennis

Mr Cox

You are right, I did enjoy that in some weird way, it gave me good laugh when everything you wrote there is wrong...

1QwkSport2.5r

Personally, if both firms sell bearings from china of the same material, size, and tolerance, but one sells a set for $7 versus $12.. I'll pay the $7 instead - especially when anyone can get 5% off with RCU promo code or 7% off with SHOUT promo code at RCBearings. I've had equal success with bearings from AvidRC.com where almost all standard bearings are $1 each. So far those $1 bearings have endured 30,000rpm and haven't blown apart... I cannot measure the minute details, but if the $2 set of bearings performs and lasts as long as a $12 set, what's the hurt? If you're hard up to get an engine back together and your local supplier carries it at a price you're willing to pay - great! My local suppliers are priced way above RCBearings AND Boca, so I don't buy bearings locally.

DaveHickey

If you Google "OS 46FX exploded view" you will come up with this:

http://downloads.hobbico.com/evpl/osm/ev15460aa.pdf

Enjoy. D.H.