Dmacsimum

Thanks for the info, I'll pass on the Moki 1.35 for now. I have to get a 4-stroke. It will be my first, I just hope the YS enignes are not hard to get down......
Dennis

Capgains

My Feedback: (4)

Have been flying my YS120 for over 10 years now and have to agree that once you get it set up, you have little or no tweaking to do.......ever.

I am duking it out with a new YS 63 right now, it has the high, low, and regulator to set, but I think I am pretty close. I did find one thing that makes the set up more difficult. If you are running it on a plane with the cowl, you can't set it up with the cowl off and then put it back on and expect it to run the same. I found this out last weekend. It was perfectly tuned with the cowl off, then when it was replaced the low end setting was way lean. Must have something to do with the dynamics of airflow. The low setting is an airbleed system.

Love the reliability and power of these engines.

Dan

I & C Tech

Thanks Chuck, That's a simple solution. Maintains the KISS principle.

Dmacsimum

Capgains,
Thanks for the shared info. By the way, I can not help but notice the Spacewalker in your small pic by your name. What model MFG is it, and what engine set up do you have for powering the plane? I'm looking for the right engine for a GP SpaceWalker 1/4 scale ARF. I'm thinking the YS 1.10 would be a winner if I can get the settings right. I'm actually wanting to overpower the plane to the point of unlimited verticle, but do not want to stick such a heavy 4-banger on it that if flies like a rock. Is this possible, or will I have to resort to a 2-stroke for the performance, weight ratio I'm wanting ?

Dennis

Capgains

My Feedback: (4)

Wow, a lot of good questions there. This Spacewalker II (1/4 scale) is a Sig kit that I built over 6 years time. Not that it's a difficult kit, I am a terribly slow builder, and put it on the back burner many times.

I really over did the engine on this one. It holds a G-38 gasser up front, moved the firewall back 1 inch (probably should have moved it a little more. Had to add 6oz to the back to balance it. But it sounds and looks great in flight, very scale. As for the unlimited vertical, the 18x6-10 really moves it out. Fly at half throttle most of the time, and kick it up to do aerobatics.

I have seen another one powered with an OS 120, and it did fine, so the YS 110 should be about right if you are going to glow it. I wouldn't worry too much about the weight of a big 4stroker, look what I did with weight. Mine is about two pounds overweight, and it still flies beautifully. With that big wing, I figure my wing loading is around 32oz/sq ft, but the bigger the plane gets, higher loadings are less of a factor.

I three pieced the wing for easier transport to the field.

This plane is just different when it comes to aerobatic performance. It spins really flat, snaps rolls and loops with the best of them. But I find myself mezmorized by flying it through scale manuvers, trying to make them look like full scale. That gas motor really helps the effect.

Dan

Dmacsimum

Capgains,
Dude, nice! I thank you for the info!!!!! So, maybe even I could go with a Saito 150 ? I would then plan to reinforce the firewall some with blocks on the inside ?????


Dennis

Capgains

My Feedback: (4)

I suppose, I have no knowledge of how the GP Arf is built so you will have to use your own descretion. I do know that the wingspan is less than the Sig model by 5 inches.

Have fun,

Dan

phinox7

My Feedback: (15)

I have a ys 140 sport and the fz.63 I intend to buy a 110 and another 140 sport or the new 160, if it comes out before I dye LOL. and from my experience I love these little motors. yes they have there quirks and I will try to list some of them for you. but if you are willing to forget all the things you think you know about tuning rc motors and learn how to tune the motor correctly they can be the most fun and rewarding motors you will own. at least that has been my experience I have even converted my 2 stroke ST .90 and TH .46 to ys pressurized fuel system's (to bad ys dose not make or market this kit any more) here are some things that will help. You can not use regular after run oil or cleaners on the motor becals it will attack the silicone diafram in the fuel pressure regulator. you must use ultra lube available threw ys-performance and I think central hobbies you can not add any bean oil or castor oil to the fuel, you must use at least ys 20/20 fuel or hotter helli fuel I have been using 20/20 powermaster with good results , run OS F plug or the YS 4 stroke plug (they are the same thing) Using something else is like trying to run a glo plug or diesel in your gas powered car, it dose not work. Know mater how well your 2 stroke ****** rc motor or Saito OS ect. runs on what ever else, it will not run in these motors vary well. the fuel tank and lines can not have any air leaks this is a pressurized fuel system and is totally dependent on the pressure in the tank for fuel delivery above idle, use 2 fuel dots and fuel T's for fueling and use the dot on the vent side to release the presure after flight and during fueling. This alows the motor to run with the fuel tank vertuly anywere on the airframe and in any position ie. inverted in a hover ext. most people think this is a fuel pump motor and that is wrong there is no fuel pump on the ys motors they pressurize the tank with crank case pressure and a check valve. you must run filters on the lines to the tank and to the motor all the Small passages in the fuel system are easy to plug with dirt that will go right threw your other motors. Ok that should cover about 50% of why people have trouble with YS motors, and know on to tuning[8D]. use the tank you are going to use on the plane on the test stand, That way if it leaks you will know before you have problems and fuel soke your planes int. before you start the motor spin it over with the glow plug out to make sure it is not full of oil or fuel, install the plug and spin the motor over for a second with the throtle at full to pressurize the tank, go to 1/4 throttle plug in the igniter and start the motor, let it run at this throttle setting until the tank pressurizes then slowly advance it to full and set your high speed needle. Observe proper 4 stroke run in procedures(You can find this in any thread for brake in I am only going to go over YS tuning) once the motor is run in and you have set the high speed needle the way you want it for your first flight in the plane, Fat or rich like a mosquito foger(max rpm - 400 to 600 rpm) then drop to Idle and set the low speed. the Ys transitions from the pressure system to the low speed idle circuit. Below 2200 rpm it is like any other 4 stroke carb. so you want to get below the transition or you will not be affecting the Idle with the low speed needle. even new the motor should idle at 1800 rpm +or- 100 rpm after run in. If the motor rpm go's up and then levels and quits the idle is to lean and you have to turn the idle needle clockwise to richen if it loads up and the idle drops it is to Rich. Ok here is ware the ys is different from all other nitro rc motors when you hit the throttle the motor go's to a pressurized injection system and the fuel curve is controlled by the fuel pressure regulator the more pressure the richer the transition the lower the presure the leaner the transition. This is why a properly tuned Ys motor is so responsive. ware it gets tricky is when you change the fuel pressure you have to go back and change the high and low speed needles again. this process takes time and has to be repeated untill you get what you want the good news is once it is right you will only have to go 1 or 2 clicks ether way for weather changes the only time you should have to make a change is when you make a prop size change do to the different load on the motor in the mid range you will find that more pitch rewires more fuel pressure for the added load on the transition. there is a grate article you can print off of aircraft proving grounds HTTP://WWW.GEISTWARE.COM/RCMODELING/...ER/YS_MAIN.HTM oh and the manual tells you most of this but most rc experts throw this in the trash as soon as the box is opened. Oh as far as humidity go's, methanol witch is what all glow fuel is based you know the other 60% of a 20/20 mix is the most water absorbent chemical know to man. so if you leave the cap off (the cap not the fuel station cap on your flight box) even between flights you are fueling your plane with water and that ****2 stroke, Sato, os ect. might run on it but a YS will not.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

For my YS 63FZ I read the manual. I listened to many good YS owners on this forum. I used the right fuel and plug. I tuned the high end needle to give me the best transition and didn't touch anything else. I never run it lean. I know I could play with it more but it runs great. It may not make sense to some people to tune the high end needle for the fastest transition but it's simple and it works.

I really should lean out the low end a little one of these days.

Awesome engine. Pressurized fuel systems are the best.

deputydog

I have 2 63's and I feel these needed to be broken in much longer than any other YS. This is where some get into trouble with this particular motor. All my other 4 strokes were running peak after the 1st gallon. These 2 were still needing to run slightly rich on the low and mid after the 1st gallon. A little more breakin time for these!

Dmacsimum

Fellers,
It's been a while since I have read this thread but it has been opened up again. I have bought the YS10FZ and love the engine! Besides some foaming and lean running at first (detonations), the engine has been trouble free. Well, almost anyway. The engine pulled away and seperated the firewall from the plane after only about 4-5 tanks through of flying (yes the YS's do HAVE POWER). I rebuilt the plane better, and stronger and have not had other probs since.

The YS engine just keeps on running like a champ. I'm still flying with the original plug I bought with the new engine! I will by another in due time......

Dennis

Dmacsimum

Fellers,
It's been a while since I have read this thread but it has been opened up again. I have bought the YS10FZ and love the engine! Besides some foaming and lean running at first (detonations), the engine has been trouble free. Well, almost anyway. The engine pulled away and seperated the firewall from the plane after only about 4-5 tanks through of flying (yes the YS's do HAVE POWER). I rebuilt the plane better, and stronger and have not had other probs since.

The YS engine just keeps on running like a champ. I'm still flying with the original plug I bought with the new engine! I will by another in due time......

Dennis

Capgains

My Feedback: (4)

Glad to hear that worked out right. Sounds like your YS wants to really fly, and doesn't like having the drag of an airplane behind it.

Your Spacewalker has the same problem as mine. No pilot daring enough to hop in for a ride. A friend of mine who couldn't stand to see that empty cockpit recentlly gave me a G-man pilot bust to put in there (his cheeks are all blown back from over G). I have a little hangar rash to fix, and then I will put him in.

donho1

I have a Sig 1/4 scale Spacewalker II that i had a Saito 182 Twin on it and it realy looked and sounded great but i used more fuel trying to tune it than flying it LOL.
I bought a YS 120 put it on my plane and have ran it several times and it runs great but i havent had a chance to fly it yet.
All these post have been a great help because this is my first YS engine I have OS or Saitos on my other planes.
I am useing Wildcat 20 20 fuel and a OS F plug and a 16x8 prop.
Does the prop seem to be ok for this engine and plane?
I hope to get to fly it in the next week or so. Any info on these engines would be greatly apreacated.

I2alpha

I'm going to buy the YS 1.10 I've been told to upgrade the fule tank because of the pressure from the pump could split a cheep tank. What is the best tank to buy to prevent this?

Jim Schwagle

My Feedback: (1)

Dubro, Sullivan or Tetra...

djlyon

Any of the normal tanks at your local hobby shop will do if you wrap them in strapping tap. The ones Jim S suggests are the better ones. Also helps prevent any surging due to expanding and contraction of the tank. Took out my 6 year old YS53 powered Kyosho Super Stearman last week after letting it sit on the shelf for 3 years. Cranked it up and went flying without even touching a needle. As a matter of fact the last time I touched a needle on it was 6 years ago. Flew it again yesterday and today. Are the needle settings perfect? NO, but they are close enough. Wonderful motors.

Denis

Carpilot

I just bought my first YS engine, it's a 110FZ, and I must say, I'm impressed!! It turns a 15X8 APC @ 9500 static with YS 20/20 fuel and an O.S. F plug. The idle is also impressive just keeps clicking them off at 2100 NICE!! It should be even more impressive with the 30% heli fuel.

It's going in a Hangar 9 .60 size mustang, the OS .91 that is is replacing would turn a 13X8 @ 10200 with 30% heli fuel. don't get me wrong the OS runs great but it won't keep up with the other YS powered warbirds!

On the dependability issue, I too have seen guys wrestle with YS engines at the field, as I have seen people wrestle with O.S , Saito, Thunder tiger, Super tiger, magnum, ect, ect...

edited for typos