Crazy_Cplanes

I have a Kangke Cap 232 Sport which I am trying to find a engine for. I would like to get either the Saito 100 Or 120.
My questions are which one of these engine are more powerful? I know the 100 is lighter so, I didn't know if it had a better Thrust to Weight Ratio. Next question does the Saito 120's extra weight offset with more power/thrust compared to the Saito 100? I have experience with the Saito 100 on my UCANDO3D 60 size and it fly's great but is not unlimited and pulls out of a hover slowly, But it is also, a good combo. I am flying the Saito 100 with a 15X6 APC prop, Just curious what prop do you use on the Saito 1.20? The Cap is probably going to come in around 7-7.5 pounds flying weight. I also, fly at an alttitude of 3100 feet which make a difference on power. The Saito 100 is my first four stroke so still learning alot. If you have additional information or experince it would be Appreiciated. Thanks.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The normal prop for a 120 would be a 15x8 or 16x6.

bentgear

How much time/gallons do you have on that 100. You might want to try an APC 16 x 4W on it. I would have to go with the 100 on the Sprot Cap if it was me.
Ed M.

hilleyja

My Feedback: (3)

It might just depend on the Cap's CG. If you have to add weight to the nose with an FA-100 you are probably loosing the power-to-weight advantage of that engine -- go with the FA-120. The difference in engine price is also a factor. Also, the FA-120 does swing a slightly larger prop.

FA-100: ($279.00) (.086hp/oz)

Weight 20.9 ozs
Power 1.8hp

FA-120S: ($329.00) (.076hp/oz)

Weight 28.9 ozs
Power 2.2hp

Airbike

My Feedback: (6)

Saito 150 & the 180 are both slightly lighter than the 120 (bigger hole).
But you gotta try a different fuel or prop (16x4w) for your 100.
My UCD w/the 100 will spiral back up after a low blender, and its over 8 lbs!
If the Cap is as light as you indicated, a 100 will be better suited. Move the radio gear towards the front if you have to. Use pull/pull rudder or even a pull/pull elev. Then you will end up with a ligther loaded plane that will fly better.
If you want a rocket, bolt that 180 on there!!
Have fun.

Shogun

My Feedback: (2)

My UCD 60 has a 100 on it and has NO problem pulling out of a hover at all. I fly it with an APC 15/6 or 16/4W and both have their plus and minuses, either yanks the UCD out of a hover really well and there is no problem with vertical whatsoever.

Either your engine is not broken in yet or there is something else going on. Check your valve lash clearance just to be sure.

Pound for pound the 100 is a bit more powerful than the 120, I doubt the 120's extra weight will offset the power increase over the 100 for what you intend to do with it.

Crazy_Cplanes

I was leaning more towards the Saito 100. With the plane coming in that light I was wanting to put a light but powerful engine up front. My Saito 100 on the UCANDO3D is still pretty new and I am still running it alittle on the rich side. It probably has 2 Gallons through it. How often do you need to check your valve clearnace, I would really hate to mess something up, the engine starts and runs great now??? The C.G. should come out real close with my setup. I mounted the Rudder servo in the tail of the Cap 232 Sport ( Pull/Pull) which should really helped out on the C.G. How fast will the Saito 100 spin a 16X4W I am assuming your are running a APC?? I am running 20% nito and 18% oil in the fuel with a couple extra ounces of castor. I am going to switch to 30% Heli fuel after this gallon. What are you guys running for fuel and am I making the right decision on my fuel choices??? Thanks alot for your input and looking forward to hearing back on this subject.

Shogun

My Feedback: (2)

I'm running 15% Wildcat in mine with a couple of extra ounces of castor added for good measure, Hobbytown USA brand. Props are all APC and are balanced on a GP balancer, nothing special going on here.

You gonna find that the 100 takes a few gallons of fuel through it before it really starts to pull hard, be patient with it and you'll have a grin on your face as big as I do!

I usually check and reset the valves once after initial break in, never had a need to do it again after that with any of my Saito's, so far anyway.

Dhominator

I 2nd Shogun's comments on break-in.

I have a saito 1.00 on a 4*60... must have been 3 gallons before it started showing it's stuff... at 5 gallons I'm not sure I've seen the best of it yet

If I had it to do over again I'd bench the thing for _at_least_ a gallon... maybe 2. I could not believe the heavy syrup that it was exhausting the first couple gallons. Somewhere around 3 gallons it got noticably better... and still getting better. Given it's my 1st engine and 1st 4-stroke I wasn't in a hurry to rush the break-in. I also kept the revs down early on. Now it's Saaaweeeeet

wldcwbypilot

Have you done a static spring test with a fishing scale or similar device? You may find that a the heavier engine with a larger prop provides more prop wash for slower flight and power out of the hole. Also do calculations of wing area verses your total weight, wing loading may not be that much different.