Enya 120-4c
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Enya 120-4c
Hey everyone, I just purchased a used Enya 120-4c engine. I am trying to get any information about it that I can. It has great compression and turns very smooth. I figured for $45 bucks I was pretty safe.
If anyone can give me some info about this engine I would appreciate it.
Thanks
If anyone can give me some info about this engine I would appreciate it.
Thanks
#2
RE: Enya 120-4c
Hi there I have an Enya R120 and also An R155 both very similar. and have run them for many years.
It woulod take pages to tell you everything i know about them.
What info do you want?
and I will be happy to tell you what i know without writing a manual
Cheers
C De J
It woulod take pages to tell you everything i know about them.
What info do you want?
and I will be happy to tell you what i know without writing a manual
Cheers
C De J
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RE: Enya 120-4c
There are actually TWO 1.20 Enya 4 strokes made. Both are excellent engines, made from VERY good quality materials and will last a LONG time. However, if you have the Enya 1.20 R vs the standard Enya 1.20. then you have a very powerful motor to boot! The standard 1.20 runs well, but the R1.20 is quite a bit stronger. Up until the YS 1.20's came on the scene, the Enya R1.20 was my favorite "Hot Rod" 1.20 sized four stroke!
Lee
Lee
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RE: Enya 120-4c
Thanks for the replys. Mine is the R model. Do you think I got a good deal? Is my Byrons 15% going to run this or do I need special fuel?
There is a nipple located on the forward part of the crankcase, Is this for fuel tank pressure? Last of all (at least for now) which screw is which on the carb?
Thanks, Dan
There is a nipple located on the forward part of the crankcase, Is this for fuel tank pressure? Last of all (at least for now) which screw is which on the carb?
Thanks, Dan
#5
RE: Enya 120-4c
Hi wr430
Looking at the rear of the engine:-
The throttle leaver on the rhs of the carby, is also a push pull choke, pull out to prime, push in to run.
When pulled out you can see that the throttle barrel closes off the carby intake for priming.
On the top of the carb there are two screws.
The screw closest to the pushrod case and throttle arm is the throttle stop screw.
The screw on the front of the carby is the air bleed adjustment, and you can see the airbleed hole on the front face of the carby just under this screw. This is for low speed and idle adjustment.
Cheers
C DE J
Looking at the rear of the engine:-
The throttle leaver on the rhs of the carby, is also a push pull choke, pull out to prime, push in to run.
When pulled out you can see that the throttle barrel closes off the carby intake for priming.
On the top of the carb there are two screws.
The screw closest to the pushrod case and throttle arm is the throttle stop screw.
The screw on the front of the carby is the air bleed adjustment, and you can see the airbleed hole on the front face of the carby just under this screw. This is for low speed and idle adjustment.
Cheers
C DE J
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RE: Enya 120-4c
You got a Great deal!
My 155R Enya's seem to run hotter than other four strokes. Has anyone else seen this? They also spit a great deal of fuel from the carb. I made a velocity stack to catch it and suck it back in.
My 155R Enya's seem to run hotter than other four strokes. Has anyone else seen this? They also spit a great deal of fuel from the carb. I made a velocity stack to catch it and suck it back in.
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RE: Enya 120-4c
Also, the nipple on the front part of the case is the crankcase breather nipple. You shoul NOT use it for tank pressue. It needs to be left open to the atmosphere. However, like the comment about them spitting a lot of fuel out of the carb, they will also tend to pump a lot of nasty oil out of the breather nipple when the engine is running (this is good, as it is a sign that you are getting lubrication to the bottom end of the engine). You can attach a short piece of regular silicone fuel tubing to the nipple and rout it to the outside (bottom?) of your cowl to keep some of the mess out of the cowl and off the firewall.
YES, you got a good deal...especially for the R version!
Lee
YES, you got a good deal...especially for the R version!
Lee
#9
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RE: Enya 120-4c
The two ways to tell the difference between an "R" and "regular" models is the "R" has the lettering on the crankcase raised and has a larger crankshaft. I have 2 "R" models and they are killer engines! 15% nitro and 18% or more oil (some castor) will be fine. I run 15% Mach 7 fuel.
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RE: Enya 120-4c
Wow thanks for all the info. This will be fitted onto a Waco taper wing bipe. I think it will be a good match.
Does anyone have a suggestion for prop size?
Thanks
Does anyone have a suggestion for prop size?
Thanks
#12
RE: Enya 120-4c
Hi again
Re prop sizes, on an 84inch low wing, aerobatic model i use a 14 x 11 gives heaps of revs accel and top speed, but always throttle back down hill etc as you do not want to valve bounce.
I dont think 16" or 17" would give good performance on the 120 as these are the sizes I use on my 155.
Maybe on a very light fabric say decathlon style plane of about 11lbs weight 16 or 17 may work.
Try 15 x6 or 15 x8
Props performance depends on what you are looking for in performance from the Aircraft.
Depends on aircraft weight, style eg low wing aerobatic, bipe etc
Re prop sizes, on an 84inch low wing, aerobatic model i use a 14 x 11 gives heaps of revs accel and top speed, but always throttle back down hill etc as you do not want to valve bounce.
I dont think 16" or 17" would give good performance on the 120 as these are the sizes I use on my 155.
Maybe on a very light fabric say decathlon style plane of about 11lbs weight 16 or 17 may work.
Try 15 x6 or 15 x8
Props performance depends on what you are looking for in performance from the Aircraft.
Depends on aircraft weight, style eg low wing aerobatic, bipe etc