Cline Regulator
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The check valve is very small and made of neoprene with a brass eyelet in one end. The check valve goes in the pressure tap line close to the crankcase tap, the closer the better. The brass eyelet end goes next to the engine. Put the regolator body as close to the carb as you can get it.
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It is small
The checkvalve is definately small. It doesn't look like the picture on Cline's homepage. I just bought two a few months back. Both had a tiny black round rubber piece with a brass eyelet inserted. The eyelet much resembles a servo grommet eyelet. Anyway, I pushed it into the fuel line just far enough that the pressure tap on my four stroke would go all the way in. In fact, I pushed it in flush then pushed against the pressure tap on the muffler to push it the rest of the way into the line.
It is a different design of checkvalve to be sure. Most checkvalves I'd seen before were inserted between two fuel halves much the way the filter would. This checkvalve goes into the fuel line.
Works great though....be sure to use the recommended filter on the regulator.
hawk
It is a different design of checkvalve to be sure. Most checkvalves I'd seen before were inserted between two fuel halves much the way the filter would. This checkvalve goes into the fuel line.
Works great though....be sure to use the recommended filter on the regulator.
hawk
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I too, what to add, definitely put a fuel line filter between the tank and regulator. Just a micro of dirt will make the regulator stay open and it will pour gas out the carb.
#5
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Cline Regulator
Anyone have this problem: Cline regulator on Laser 120: Despite
installation per instructions, regulator emits small bubbles of air into the line to the carb. Engine does not quit, but rpms vary depending on amount of air. There is no air getting to the unit.
Cline suggested I might have a bad regulator so put in a second one with the same result. Cline then says I can't have two bad regulators, so "try some different fuel". I advised him I had just started a fresh 10% cool power...so I wondered why the fuel could cause air bubbles. I haven't heard from him since. Any suggestions?
installation per instructions, regulator emits small bubbles of air into the line to the carb. Engine does not quit, but rpms vary depending on amount of air. There is no air getting to the unit.
Cline suggested I might have a bad regulator so put in a second one with the same result. Cline then says I can't have two bad regulators, so "try some different fuel". I advised him I had just started a fresh 10% cool power...so I wondered why the fuel could cause air bubbles. I haven't heard from him since. Any suggestions?
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I will check that. Thanks for the suggestion.
I have run a Rossi 35R60 with the tank 20 inches from the engine without problem. I used larger tubing from the tank to the engine. I know the Laser is not consuming the fuel as fast as the Rossi.
I have run a Rossi 35R60 with the tank 20 inches from the engine without problem. I used larger tubing from the tank to the engine. I know the Laser is not consuming the fuel as fast as the Rossi.
#8
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Mounting
I haven't stepped up to get one of these little marvels yet. I note from Jim Cline's web info for the regulator he sez it should be mounted very close to the carb. OK, so just how does one locate the regulator that near the carb *without* mounting it on the engine? What approach(es) have you guys taken to mount these regulators and are there any special considerations for cowled engines?
(I'm also wondering if any of the engine mfgrs get excited [read: void warranty?] about drilling out the back case for pressure. I've been carefully bench running a Moki 2.10, getting it ready to mount in a SuperKraft Laser200. And I'm thinking the Cline regulator will be a must for that plane and how I intend to fly it.)
Thanks for any clues or info.
Mike
(I'm also wondering if any of the engine mfgrs get excited [read: void warranty?] about drilling out the back case for pressure. I've been carefully bench running a Moki 2.10, getting it ready to mount in a SuperKraft Laser200. And I'm thinking the Cline regulator will be a must for that plane and how I intend to fly it.)
Thanks for any clues or info.
Mike
#9
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Mike, I simply use a 3/4 inch piece of fuel line on the carb fuel nipple and and put the regulator fuel nipple in the other end and let it float there, if you mount it to something solid, vibration could
upset its accuracy. My Saito 150 is mounted sideways with the Cline regulator mounted as above, it doesn't touch anything and works flawlessly. I just recieved my third Cline reg. yesterday.
upset its accuracy. My Saito 150 is mounted sideways with the Cline regulator mounted as above, it doesn't touch anything and works flawlessly. I just recieved my third Cline reg. yesterday.
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Roger that advice on the mounting, Hobbsy. I like to use something stiffer than silicone tubing, say, the yellow stuff used for gas or smoke, because it holds the unit a little more firmly in position.
I wouldn't worry about taping a two stoke for crank pressure. Drill, tap, screw in the pressure tap, and file it flush with the surface of the back plate inside. Alternatively, from a technique used 40 years ago with C/L engines, replace a back plate screw with a tap. Drill a small diameter hole from the inside of the case into the end of the threaded hole in the case. That worked.
Probably no manufacturer is going to consent to anything. The big print giveth and the little print taketh away.
I wouldn't worry about taping a two stoke for crank pressure. Drill, tap, screw in the pressure tap, and file it flush with the surface of the back plate inside. Alternatively, from a technique used 40 years ago with C/L engines, replace a back plate screw with a tap. Drill a small diameter hole from the inside of the case into the end of the threaded hole in the case. That worked.
Probably no manufacturer is going to consent to anything. The big print giveth and the little print taketh away.
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Will a check valve such as a YS work better? I have one of these that I was going to use with my Saito 1.80. I was wondering if the one that came with it would be tempramental?
#13
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The Cline regulator is not an engine enhancer, it makes your engine run consistent from full tank to empty tank no matter where the tank is in the plane. The check valve that comes with the Cline is one of those things in life you can install and forget about. The YS one is tempermental by comparison.
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Cline Regulator specs
With the Cline regulator installed and 18x8 APC prop, Red Max 15% Nitro, 20% oil, about 90 degree temperature, not sure what the humitidy, the 1.60 would turn 9200 RPM.
#16
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I am getting 9100 rpm with APC 17x8 Omega 15%
I am a few clicks rich though since my engine is just about
broken in.
This engine seems to be very smooth running now.
I'd like to get a cline and open the outlets of the bisson to 1/2"
since they are tapered to 3/8"
I am a few clicks rich though since my engine is just about
broken in.
This engine seems to be very smooth running now.
I'd like to get a cline and open the outlets of the bisson to 1/2"
since they are tapered to 3/8"
#19
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I mounted my Cline regulator 1/2" from the carb, etc... on an OS 1.60. I now need to set my top end needle valve to only 3/4 turns open. Adjustments are VERY touchy. Is this common, such small opening and touchy adjustment??
#20
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You should not have had to change your settings at all unless fuel draw was a real problem before mounting the Cline. Anyway the # of turns in or out is immaterial if it runs right, that's the bottom line.
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On the suggestion of Neil Tidley of Laser Engines,I tested the clines underwater under pressure. No sign of a leak. I removed the 120 from the plane and put it back on the test stand. All three regulators had the same bubbling into the carb, including the new one Jim Cline sent which he was certain was a-ok.
I will try these puppies on a Saito 100 to see what happens. Stay tuned, this is fascinating.
I will try these puppies on a Saito 100 to see what happens. Stay tuned, this is fascinating.
#23
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I finally got mine working good. I too was experiencing air bubbles, which was result of strapping the regulator to the engine, with silicone tubing as a vibration reducer. It was still too much vibration and resulted in bubbles in the line. I just let it rest on the engine/mount with foam strapped to the regulator and it resolved the issue.
My 1.60 required extensive re-tuning. I assume this is result of the poor fuel delivery I had prior to the system.
My 1.60 required extensive re-tuning. I assume this is result of the poor fuel delivery I had prior to the system.