engine mystery
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RE: engine mystery
ORIGINAL: meowy84
Someone mentioned that they e-mailed Cox/Estes and they'll resume the $5.99 deal in a little while.
Someone mentioned that they e-mailed Cox/Estes and they'll resume the $5.99 deal in a little while.
Pretty amazing deal. Even if I don't fly that many reedies anymore, it's worth it, just for backstock. (Paid ten bux for my last cox glowhead).
#28
RE: engine mystery
Minny, I hear ya. I missed the first time the deal was around but I don't plan on missing out again. At $6 bucks it's a great deal I think. I hope they bring it back soon....10 or 20 Cox reedies will serve me for quite a while.
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RE: engine mystery
Hi all
I have 2 Norvel .061s. One RC, one not RC. They are both designated AME high performance engines. It has always been my understanding that the AME was the designation given to the high performance versions of the Norvel engines. They are both NIB and the box says Norvel with small print calling them AME high performance engines. The Norvel .15 is plain bearing and the Norvel AME.15 is ball bearing.
The 1.0 is on my engines also and means 1cc or .061 cubic inches.
So Minny you have a .061 Norvel AME high performance engine.
I also have a Norvel 40 that I am currently using on a Magic Extra 3D plane. Very nice and quit powerful.
Denis
I have 2 Norvel .061s. One RC, one not RC. They are both designated AME high performance engines. It has always been my understanding that the AME was the designation given to the high performance versions of the Norvel engines. They are both NIB and the box says Norvel with small print calling them AME high performance engines. The Norvel .15 is plain bearing and the Norvel AME.15 is ball bearing.
The 1.0 is on my engines also and means 1cc or .061 cubic inches.
So Minny you have a .061 Norvel AME high performance engine.
I also have a Norvel 40 that I am currently using on a Magic Extra 3D plane. Very nice and quit powerful.
Denis
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RE: engine mystery
ORIGINAL: djlyon
Hi all
I have 2 Norvel .061s. One RC, one not RC. They are both designated AME high performance engines. It has always been my understanding that the AME was the designation given to the high performance versions of the Norvel engines. They are both NIB and the box says Norvel with small print calling them AME high performance engines. The Norvel .15 is plain bearing and the Norvel AME.15 is ball bearing.
The 1.0 is on my engines also and means 1cc or .061 cubic inches.
So Minny you have a .061 Norvel AME high performance engine.
Hi all
I have 2 Norvel .061s. One RC, one not RC. They are both designated AME high performance engines. It has always been my understanding that the AME was the designation given to the high performance versions of the Norvel engines. They are both NIB and the box says Norvel with small print calling them AME high performance engines. The Norvel .15 is plain bearing and the Norvel AME.15 is ball bearing.
The 1.0 is on my engines also and means 1cc or .061 cubic inches.
So Minny you have a .061 Norvel AME high performance engine.
Been breaking it in on a gravity tank, and it seems to run pretty well--although, as mentioned earlier in this thread, it doesn't wanna run unless I keep the glow heater turned on. I'm anxious to try the cox glowhead suggestion, as I have a few of these lying around. You ever tried this?
Needle also doesn't seem quite as subtle as on my other norvels--but that may be due to the faulty glowplug. Will see if it needles more precisely with a cox glowhead. Slightly diminished performance won't be a problem, as I've still gotta put in a lot of handle time before I'm really ready for super-speed flying.
Gonna run a few more gravity tankfulls through it before I hook it up to a bladder.
Again, Denis, thanx, for your input. This engine came to me unused, although without box or literature, so I'm grateful for the info.
Best,
M
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RE: engine mystery
Mike:
If you want to run it flat out all the time a bladder will be OK. If you want to throttle it, a bladder will not work without some form of demand regulator.
Bill.
If you want to run it flat out all the time a bladder will be OK. If you want to throttle it, a bladder will not work without some form of demand regulator.
Bill.
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RE: engine mystery
CL, so it'll be flat out all the time. (Took a piece of SS wire and cobbled the throttle full open. Rube Goldburg would be proud).
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RE: engine mystery
Minny
I have the instructions for these engines. They are quite thurough. If you would like I can scan them and email them to you. The instructions come with 2 head shims taped to them which guess you don't have. Unfortunate. The instructions do have a glaring error. They say you need a bladder tank or a pressure back plate to pressurize the tank for max performance. Pressure has nothing to do with max performance but enlargening the ventury until the engine won't run unless the tank is pressurized does have something to do with max performance. Or they could be telling you that the needle valve is so cruddy that they need pressure to get a consistant needle setting ala some old cox TDs. Flaming out when removing the glow is an indication of too rich a needle. I have never run these engines so unfortunately I can't give any first hand advice.
Denis
I have the instructions for these engines. They are quite thurough. If you would like I can scan them and email them to you. The instructions come with 2 head shims taped to them which guess you don't have. Unfortunate. The instructions do have a glaring error. They say you need a bladder tank or a pressure back plate to pressurize the tank for max performance. Pressure has nothing to do with max performance but enlargening the ventury until the engine won't run unless the tank is pressurized does have something to do with max performance. Or they could be telling you that the needle valve is so cruddy that they need pressure to get a consistant needle setting ala some old cox TDs. Flaming out when removing the glow is an indication of too rich a needle. I have never run these engines so unfortunately I can't give any first hand advice.
Denis
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RE: engine mystery
"I have the instructions for these engines. They are quite thurough. If you would like I can scan them and email them to you. The instructions come with 2 head shims taped to them which guess you don't have. Unfortunate."
Would love a look at the instructions. And it's interesting: when I pulled the head, I noticed there were two shims in there already. Maybe this is standard, and the instructions included still two more--but at least I'm not completely without head rings for this engine.
Oh, and thanx, for the tip about the error. If you wanna e- them to me, I'm [email protected]
Thanx a meg, Denis,
M
Would love a look at the instructions. And it's interesting: when I pulled the head, I noticed there were two shims in there already. Maybe this is standard, and the instructions included still two more--but at least I'm not completely without head rings for this engine.
Oh, and thanx, for the tip about the error. If you wanna e- them to me, I'm [email protected]
Thanx a meg, Denis,
M
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RE: engine mystery
Bringing this thread back from antiquity. Just picked up the same engine pictured above with the same markings other than the serial mark under the mount lug (6100027). Mising the cylinder mounting screws (4). Wondering if the new Big Mig mounting screws shown on the NV website will fit.
http://www.nvengines.com/index.php?p...mart&Itemid=65
http://www.nvengines.com/index.php?p...mart&Itemid=65
#38
RE: engine mystery
Yes the screws are the same, but I haven't bought those exact screws from NV myself.
The name Big Mig refers to the transfer porting, the is no outer difference between the AME and the Big Mig. The engine at the beginning of this thread is an early, pre-revlite, type, but the crank case stayed the same.
The name Big Mig refers to the transfer porting, the is no outer difference between the AME and the Big Mig. The engine at the beginning of this thread is an early, pre-revlite, type, but the crank case stayed the same.
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RE: engine mystery
ORIGINAL: Mr Cox
Yes the screws are the same, but I haven't bought those exact screws from NV myself.
The name Big Mig refers to the transfer porting, the is no outer difference between the AME and the Big Mig. The engine at the beginning of this thread is an early, pre-revlite, type, but the crank case stayed the same.
Yes the screws are the same, but I haven't bought those exact screws from NV myself.
The name Big Mig refers to the transfer porting, the is no outer difference between the AME and the Big Mig. The engine at the beginning of this thread is an early, pre-revlite, type, but the crank case stayed the same.
Thanks Bas.
PV
#41
A new post on this thread!
I have an engine that looks like the one in the first photos with a few exceptions. My serial number is 7101240 so I'm gjuessing it may be a latter engine. The number on the other side is 0.8cnpy. If 1.0 is an .061, then my engine is an .049. One other difference. My carb is a press fit, with no screws holding it on like my other Norvel, AND it has a small bleed hole on the back of the carb. Is anyone familiar with this? The reason I'm even fooling with this engine is the Norvel I had on my little seaplane would not idle down low enough to allow me to land power on. I'm hoping the bleed hole will help with that.
It appears this is a new, or at least, never run engine. I seem to remember I had a heck of a time breaking in my older one. Can anyone help me with the procedure? Do I run it at high power and let it cool for a little while (Run rich) and then go high again, or what. I can't find my instructions for these engines.
Thanks in advance!
Joe
I have an engine that looks like the one in the first photos with a few exceptions. My serial number is 7101240 so I'm gjuessing it may be a latter engine. The number on the other side is 0.8cnpy. If 1.0 is an .061, then my engine is an .049. One other difference. My carb is a press fit, with no screws holding it on like my other Norvel, AND it has a small bleed hole on the back of the carb. Is anyone familiar with this? The reason I'm even fooling with this engine is the Norvel I had on my little seaplane would not idle down low enough to allow me to land power on. I'm hoping the bleed hole will help with that.
It appears this is a new, or at least, never run engine. I seem to remember I had a heck of a time breaking in my older one. Can anyone help me with the procedure? Do I run it at high power and let it cool for a little while (Run rich) and then go high again, or what. I can't find my instructions for these engines.
Thanks in advance!
Joe
#42
Yes .08cc is a .049 cu in, and 1.0cc is .06 cu in. The PY is Russian for cubic centimeters.
I would suggest just going to the NV Engines website and check out the instructions and tips in their support section (upper right hand corner).
They still sell the same engines under the NV Engines brand now instead of under the Norvel brand.
http://www.nvengines.com/
I would suggest just going to the NV Engines website and check out the instructions and tips in their support section (upper right hand corner).
They still sell the same engines under the NV Engines brand now instead of under the Norvel brand.
http://www.nvengines.com/
#44
I have two more "similar" engines. They both have AB on the left side (seen from rear) and Made in China under the mounting lugs. Clones? No mentione of what size they may be.
JOe
JOe
#45
Standard 2 stroke, ABC type, is go to full throttle, adjusted to the rich side but not quite 4 cycling. Do a few heat cycles running like this and you will be good to go. The idea with any ABC type (tapered bore, no ring) is to get it right up to operating temp immediately. Running any cooler is merely wearing it out prematurely because of the pinch at TCD. Forgive me if your engine is a ringed type.
#46
The made in China engines are copies of the Russian Norvel engines. They have a .06 cu in displacement. The brand is AP and they are made in the same engine factory that makes ASP, AP, Magnum, SC, and other brands of engines.
#49
I have a AP engine, As for the glow plugs, I don't remember where but wasn't there a head you could use a standard glow short plug in, Might be easier and cheaper than trying to find the Norvel or Cox's plugs, If any of you remember the heads and know how they work I might try making one for mine, I work in a machine shop and get to play with the machines after hours HEHE.
Dauntae
Dauntae
#50
You lose 1000-2000rpm by using a glow head adapter to use standard plugs. Nelson plugs seem to be right up there with the normal glow heads. Rumor has it Merlin plugs has glow heads? Don't quote me on that one though.