CaptainHook

My Feedback: (80)

I just bought one for my H9 Taylorcraft. Any comments on the way I should break this in, type of fuel, how may tanks before it's ready?

Miniair

My Feedback: (1)

Follow the Saito manual and you won't have a problem. I've broke everyone I own in as per the manual and never had a problem and I own 6, the newest is 2 years old and one is 6 years old and still running strong.

Just don't use 4 cycle fuel.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Chook, just follow the instructions and it will be fine, I usually run two twelve oz. tanks, but the 150 will probably will require more since it will use up a 12 oz. tank quicker than a .72 or a 100. When running the first 10 minutes keep rpm at 4,000 then raise it to 5,000 and after about 20 minutes you'll hear it start to speed up and over the next few minutes it will gain about 200 rpm. Every Saito I've broken in has reacted this same way. Saito says it will be ready to fly after 40 minutes but not nearly broken in, just continue to run it a little rich. Saitos don't react to mixture adjustments instantly, so tune a little and give it a chance to stabilize or you'll be chasing the mixture all over the place and think something is wrong. Not trying to sound preachy, just sharing my experience. By the way you'll love the 150, it has big b---s.

Fuelman

My Feedback: (6)

You'll love that big Saito!
Like the above, follow the instructions for break in. The instructions should also say to use a fuel with 20% oil- Make sure you do use that amount of oil, it really does help with keeping it cool and making it last a long time. They do not recommend that oil content for no reason. I have always found that Saitos run nice on 15% nitro and never found a reason to run more than that. Many people run 30% nitro in them and are satisfied, however, do not run that much nitro while breaking in. It runs too hot and most of your money is spitting right out the muffler in that first 40 minutes.

Fuelman

Granpooba

My Feedback: (5)

Have never run any of my engines on a test stand, prior to flying them. Have always run them on the aircraft, usually about one tank, just for operational check. Then started flying them, but at a richer setting.

Never had problem one, thus far. Or in the future I hope.

Model engines run completely different in flight than on test / break in stands.

Common fellows, don't jump on me. LOL This is only my personal opinion and like I said, never had problem one.

SrTelemaster150

X2

After having issues W/Byron 4-cycle fuel, I switched to Morgan Cool Power 15% & never had another issue. I ran well over 50 gallons of Cool Power through my 1st FA150.

Hobbsy's RPM recomendations are good advice but I would also add that I do not run any new engine @ constatnt speed but rather vary RPM W/substantial throttle application from just above idle W/O exceeding those RPM levels he recommended.

bogbeagle

When Lycomings are re-built, they are usually put to work in the circuit for a few hours, rather than being sent on long trips at constant power settings.

(In my experience)

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Granpooba- Saitos break in a bit differently and a test stand is a good idea for some. Saito recommends a sloppy rich setting for the first 10 minutes. Hobbsy's ranges are pretty much how I have done mine. My 125 would have shredded a model if not on a test stand due to how it pounded hard. You can see the engines smooth out on a test stand, and see when they hit spots where they get smoother again, less bubbling in the fuel tank, and then suddenly they start sipping fuel. They are just different.

I agree with Sr Telemaster150 on varying the throttle some. That is old school but I still do it myself.

I also hit wide open throttle at the 10 minute point for a short blip. And more wide open runs from then on. I push mine hard.

Granpooba

My Feedback: (5)

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh, ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, now you got me worried, blw.

I have had the same thing occur with other Saito's, mainly my .91's. But when they as you say started pounding, I just throttled up until the pounding went away and would smooth out. Same this with my DLE-20, would just idle up until the shaking and pounding would smooth out.

Just do not think that with the engines flying with a higher RPM, that the pounding would occur. But then again, I'm not sitting in the cockpit feeling the engine vibes. I did at one time, but that was in real life.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Using my 10 minutes at each 1,000 rpm the engine does not run at a constant speed. For example at the 5,000 rpm setting, the engine will be running about 5,500 at the end of the 10 minutes. Each 1,000 rpm setting is different but each shows a gain in rpm.

SrTelemaster150

An increase of 500 RPM in 10 minutes is pretty much constant speed. The idea is to vary the throttle setting W/O excessive RPM.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

It's funny how things work around here some times., a 200 rpm increase in rpm is considered huge when upping the nitro percentage from 10 to 15% but a 500 rpm increase in rpm during break in is considered nothing/ constant speed, amazing. I love it.

SrTelemaster150

Your comparison is just plain ludicrous. Do you realize how that makes you look? 200 RPM under full load @ WOT is a whole lot different than 500 rpm increase on a partially opened, (less than 1/4 throttle) constant throttle setting over a 10 minute time period.

You are completely ignoring the varying the throttle aspect. I have VEVER seen an engine manafacturer or rebuilder advocate constant, non varying throttle settings for long periods. (like 10 minutes)

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Well guys, looks like I'm going to back out of this breaking in talk because I don't want to bicker with anyone. Too bad because it was getting good and interesting.

Granpooba, I somehow mistakenly got the impression this was your first Saito.

Rudolph Hart

I hope chook will post a flying video and lets us listen to it as well.I've flown a friends with a 125 in it and it flew nice and scale so a 150 is going to be exciting and they are beautiful to watch in the air.My own taylorcraft is powered by a 182 twin and the 150 should equal it.

SrTelemaster150

I had an FA150 in my Dynaflite PT-19 that was on the heavy side due to lots of added scale details. The engine had enough power to pull it through BIG loops. The 150 is a powerful engine.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Barry, I don't deserve to be called ludicrous for making an observation. I'd say that successfully breaking in 30 plus Saitos and having them all turn out perfect except one speaks much louder than anything.

Pete, if it weren't 5 degrees here this am I would run my 1.50 with a couple of different props and get some new numbers. Nothing wrong with the old numbers, I just don't rememberr them. Plus, I want to run it with the stock intake on it once again.

Rudolph Hart

I don't know what 5f is on the c gauge but it sounds cold.Planning to fly the 182 this weekend but here it is summer and the forecast is 41c which is a hundred and something,and i know from past summers that it's hard work on everyone meaning plane and all.That intake and carby looks identical to the one on my 220.

Rudolph Hart

Woops..except it's not bolted to the head

SrTelemaster150

Nobody called YOU ludicrous. Your trying to compare an increase in maximum power output to an increase in RPM over a 10 minute period @ a constant throttle setting while an engine breaks in is.

The 2 have nothing in common.

SrTelemaster150

5°F is -15°C.




The FA220 uses the same part# carburator as the FA180. They both have 11mm bores. The FA150 carburetor has the same bolt pattern, but is 10mm bore. They both look similar & I think they are made from the same casting. AS you observed, the FA220 intake manifold bolts to the head while the FA150/180 uses a gland nut.

The optianal FA220 "big bore" carburetor is a physically larger casting & has a 12mm bore W/the same bolt pattern as the other 2. On my High compression FA180 CDI, I bored the updraft section of an FA150 intake manifold to 12mm & the cross draft section where it enters the head to the same ID as the FA180 intake port. The engine picked up 400 RPM (8450) @ WOT W/an 18X8 Dynathrust prop. Idle & transition were not affected.

I doubt that a stock glow ignition version of the FA180 would have responded as favorably to the bigger carburetor.

Granpooba

My Feedback: (5)

Hey blw, no reason for you to be backing out of this thread. You have given me some good advice on Saito's and I am sure that you have more to offer.

The 1.25 Saito is new to me and will go into my Christen Eagle. But I do have two other Saito .91's, one mounted in a Revolver 70 and the other in a very much modified Senior Kadet.

As for a difference of 200 or 500 RPM's, makes no difference to me as long as the engine is running properly, providing good power for the model powered and finally lasts a long time, with good service. Just remember fellows, " Nothing Lasts Forever ".

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

I wonder if the O.P.'s engine is still around? I have a feeling it was broken-in about 12 years ago...

Ya gotta love it when an old thread gets dredged up...and everyone goes back and forth...without noticing that the question was asked in 2002 (I think we've all done it at one time or another...)


Doesn't really matter though, I guess...the info is still valid, aye!?
Just tryin' to inject a little levity here...don't nobody get bugged, O.K.?!

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I didn't notice either. It's almost seamless from 2002 up to today.

You will probably love your 125, Granpooba. I have the early version and it isn't a revver.

Rudolph Hart

I so agree with you guys sentiments,when you read something on the net it could could be how old who knows but you answer it like it was just said.I think it's screamingly funny when you think about it and it's good to laugh at myself