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Everything Radial Engines

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Old 11-10-2011, 12:41 PM
  #3251
radial1951
 
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ORIGINAL: ya33a

Hi,

Here's progress on my ASM SU26M, with the Saito, 325R, getting there........It will have a Microsens on board glo driver...
Nice job on the SU26. That's a clever way to get the cowl to pop over the engine. I needed to do similar when my 325 was fitted to the Yak-50, now deceased :-(

Is that a Keleo ring? Can't see it, did you re-route the exit pipe or just shorten it? The 325 is a NICE engine...

Regards RossG
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Old 11-10-2011, 01:24 PM
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I use McDaniel glow driver on mine and it work very well. I also used the Keleo scale exhaust. It is a bit difficult to install but it work great.

Also, the engine manual mention a valve clearance setting of .004-.007 but they also mentioned that if it work over this limit, you don't need to adjust. This is a bit strange to me.

I was able to start it by hand without any problem but make sure to avoid over prime. It may be a bit longer the first time but once it make a first run, it is very easy to start.
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Old 11-10-2011, 05:47 PM
  #3253
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thanks for the info ATCDave and vibio8
i noticed also someone mentioned the microsense on board glow driver are they all they of the same quality  or is one better than the other?

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Old 11-10-2011, 06:04 PM
  #3254
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Default RE: Everything Radial Engines

also vibi08 i have a keleo ring exhaust ring i am installing with mine ...why was yours  difficult  to install?
do you mean on the engine itself or in your plane?.....I plan on putting engine and ring in a kmp t28 trogan .....think it will just fit!
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Old 11-10-2011, 06:13 PM
  #3255
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Because you have to align all 5 exhaust ports at the same time....and they are at an angle........just wait until you try it....you will understand
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Old 11-10-2011, 06:40 PM
  #3256
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I have the ST 710 (German) and I had to send it to Keleo to get it fit with the collector (front style). Kelvin swore he'd never do it again! Let me tell you the Seidel cyl are not all aligned well and some of the head castings intake and exhaust ports are a bit off. Which makes it really hard to put on or take off this collector. I need to remove mine since I have found that the SHCS on the front crank housing are loose and it is almost impossible to re-tighten with a stub alen wrench....
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Old 11-11-2011, 03:03 AM
  #3257
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Hi,

Glad you like my assembly of the Su26, I originally bought it for a 26cc weedeater I converted, but when I bought the 325, I just knew it had to go in there instead.... Then I had to make it fit...?!?! the OD was identical to the OD of the engine...hummm.. 3 months of thinking and 5 minutes with a thin blade inthe grinder and hey presto a cowl that fits the engine and has cooling holes... I don't care that it pokes through a bit I was molding up some blisters but after a couple of goes that didn't work out I just went nah, it looks ok as it is and the close fitting cowl looks great hugging the engine. I always paint the inside of my cowls and fire walls, to help with fuel proofing and it also finishes it off better. I screwed the engine directly to the firewall and cut the carby hole bigger, the firewall is also reinforced with metal tek screws that go 1/4 of the way into the ply so it will stop the engine pulling the firewall out of the airframe, I won't be doing 3D so it should be fine, I'm also considering galssing the whole front but the thing is so nose heavy now, I was able to move the cowl back 1/2" to 3/4" (13mm to 19mm) which should help. so I'll be rear mounting 3 HD servos and have the battery etc well behind the COG. I painted the silver landing gear red because it looked cruddy and fitted a couple of spatts off an old ARF, I need a 3 blade prop which is 1" to 2" smaller (25mm to 50mm) with a big pitch so the engine can tick over and sound throaty plus won't self distruct on the first landing.

I bought the microsens onboard glo about 5 years ago - I bought 3 of them, can't remember why I did that, but I have a couple of spares now. It looks straight forward to setup and I just need the right sort of power supply now.

The pilot is the 1/4 guy from my H9 Taylorcraft and his hat matches the paint job pretty well I think, I also used some car pinstripe tape on the canopy to hide all the white which looked dodgy, I'm chasing heaps of 'sponsorship' stickers now to plaster all over the plane.

The engine came with the Kelio exhaust ring, I had to 'persuade' it onto the engine, (I used a round steel rod and gently adjusted each pipe about 0.5mm (1/64") at a time to make it fit perfectly before finger tightening the nuts to the head, then I realised that the pipe sticking straight down would be vulnerable to my usual arrivals, so I took it off and moved it 1 pot to the left which means it's coming out of the plane just over the starboard wing, I don't think it looks that bad and the overly large hole lets plenty of heat out, (that's my justification for the way I messed up with the grinder but I'll get over it)... I then went beserk and cut all the louvers out with the grinder which also should help with airflow, I think it's a ratio of 1 to 3 or 1 to 4 for cooling, for every square inch (cm) of air intake you need 3 to 4 times the amount of exhaust air, otherwise the air 'boils' and then the engine won't run anymore.

I still have heaps to do but can't wait to get the engine running, I was considering converting it to gas, by tappng the heads to take the Saito spark plugs and using a hall effect unit to trigger it, but I can't find ayine who can advise me on where to find a spark unit to suit, I don't want to put in a distributor and mess around with all that, I just want to get a plug and play option with minimum of engineering, I can drill the prop driver and install the pick up and drill and tap the heads but trying to set up a distributor...hummm.. I was hoping to find a 5 cylinder electronic distributor that can be fired off the single pick up and swap the leads around to suit the firing order of 1, 3, 5, 2, 4. any tuning would take a few seconds to pick up but so what, I'd be willing to sacrifice that for ultimate reliability, I would also shim the barrels to drop the compression down so it would run on high octane pump gas. My reasoning is the FG20 in the Taylorcraft is just so, so nice doing a slow flyby putting along at tickover then opening the throttle knowing it will always pickup and fly away...
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Old 11-11-2011, 05:11 AM
  #3258
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Default RE: Everything Radial Engines

I also have the Keleo exhaust ring on the ASP 400. When I tried the first time, I had the engine in one hand and the ring in the other. After about 15 minutes, I screwed the engine to a piece of wood and clamped the wood in a bench vice. That made it much easier. Just make sure the the threads are started by hand. Do not use a wrench to try and get the threads started. After in initial installation, removing and re-installing is much easier.

Ken
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:49 AM
  #3259
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I have a possible solution to my front crank cover being loos and the need to remove teh fornt Keleo collector. I could use a m3x8mm hex head bolt and use a open end wrench to tighten down the bolt. this would be muce easier than trying to put a hex key into a SHCS. Problem is, I cannot seem to locate a supplier of m3x8mm HEX head bolts. I have looked all over the web and I am not able to locate a source. Do any of you guys know where such a product may be?

Cheers
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Old 11-13-2011, 07:20 AM
  #3260
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Hello chasrb,

did you check FASTENALL? I dont know if they have hex head M3X8 but you can check. The only problem is that i dont think they sell bolt otherwise than 100 bolts box
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Old 11-13-2011, 07:27 AM
  #3261
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I also mount my Keleo exhaust while my engine was on the test stand. The exhaust is not as exactly aligned with the port as it should for easy installation. It is probably difficult to maintain the proper alignment when the exhaust is welded. When installing, it is important to screw nuts just a bit at each port. For the last one, it is always difficult to engage the nut because it is rarely aligned properly (On mine at least).

The engine run very well with this exhaust and most of all, it direct all the oil where you want instead of all over the place if you dont have a ring.
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Old 11-14-2011, 03:35 AM
  #3262
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Hi Guys,

Here's how I put the Kelio exhaust on my bird, I positioned the engine on my left knee and sat on the floor with the engine and exhaust loose, I then matched up the exhaust with each port as best that it would go, I found that 3 would slide in pretty well but the next 2 would be tight, so I then tried to put the 2 tight ones in first, it then meant that the 5th one was way out.... I took the exhaust off the engine and put a steel rod into the offending 2 outlets of the ring and VERY, VERY gently moved them ever so slightly whilst gripping the ring as tightly as I could, (it would be extremely easy to crack the welds and split the outlets or any comb of destroying a couple of hundred $$$) so very carefully and slowly, I then tried to put the ring on the engine again, now three went straight in, and 2 were almost in, I looked at the odd 2 and realised that only one was stuck which was keeping them both out (they were going into the first couple of threads of the exhaust in the head but not going completely down and when I attempted to thread on the exhaust flange nuts they kept cross threading, the ONLY way to ensure you never cross thread a nut or screw is to turn it carefully by hand in the opposite way to the way it needs to go in then feel and listen for the nut to 'click' that means it's exactly over the end of the start thread, you then turn back the 'correct' way with your fingers to 'feel' the thread take up, if it binds - STOP. Then feel the next nut along in sequence, till you have them started, that's when I realised that the 2 that were too tight needed adjusting again, so out with the exhaust, and gently prising the tight one with a rod down the outlet (The steel rod was a medium sized phillips head screwdriver (star head) wrapped in electrical tape) I moved the offending outlet an almost imperceptible amount (they weren't out by very much) and then reassembled it using oil on the threads and the spacers to ensure a tight seal and proper thread alignment, the exhaust almost fell into place and the nuts were easy to finger tighten down to the last few threads before needing a spanner to nip them up. Removing the exhaust and refitting it is simple now and I can position it any way I like, so be careful and take your time and remember small amounts of adjustment make a big difference.
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Old 11-14-2011, 06:22 PM
  #3263
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Default RE: Everything Radial Engines

Quote:
ORIGINAL: chasrb

I have a possible solution to my front crank cover being loos and the need to remove teh fornt Keleo collector. I could use a m3x8mm hex head bolt and use a open end wrench to tighten down the bolt. this would be muce easier than trying to put a hex key into a SHCS. Problem is, I cannot seem to locate a supplier of m3x8mm HEX head bolts. I have looked all over the web and I am not able to locate a source. Do any of you guys know where such a product may be?

Cheers
Hi chasrb

Why not just put a short piece of hex key in the SHCS and use your open ender on the hex as though it is a bolt... If that doesn't allow you to get the SHCS tight enough because of the small AF of the hex, you could use a short length of larger AF hex key and carefully grind / file one end of it down to be a NEAT fit in the SHCS. Then use the open ender on the larger hex. The whole thing only needs to be long enough for the spanner to fit the hex safely. Hope this makes sense...

Regards RossG
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Old 11-27-2011, 02:38 PM
  #3264
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Okay Fellas,

I Posted some vid of my most recent ASP FR400AR runs. Recorded in 5.1 surround sound from different angles and RPM range it gives a pretty good representation of the sound characteristics of this engine as well as it's performance. I was able to show my run time at WOT to be 13 minutes 38 seconds on a 16 oz tank. Not bad, really! I also ran at night towards the end of the vid to record a bit of fire coming out the exhaust tubes. Pretty cool....



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LK1jF...el_video_title
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Old 11-27-2011, 08:57 PM
  #3265
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Al Overcast, nice vid. More about the radio south glow driver - what are you doing about driver battery?? also what weather app was that?
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:31 PM
  #3266
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ORIGINAL: Aluminum Overcast

Okay Fellas,

I Posted some vid of my most recent ASP FR400AR runs.
DUDE!

That is a rockin' sockin' badd azz video of the FS400! One of the best yet I have seen. Awesome, really awesome! [sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]
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Old 11-28-2011, 05:29 PM
  #3267
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Thanks Guys. I felt this engine deserves better more complete coverage and sound recording, hence my video. Frankly I really have had little or no problem with mine (had to replace my low speed o ring as it was deformed) but I seem to read about all the problems people are having. I suspect the guys who have difficulty or unsure about this engine come to the web searching for solutions so that is what you hear most. Everyone else is out flying them. I do intend to fly the daylights out of this engine beginning next spring. And if I still like it to buy a few more... For the cost of 1 Saito 5 cylinder you could have 2 of these with a few hundred bucks to spare and more power to boot. You could also have 4 of these for the cost of 1 Moki. Can you say HUGE B17? When you look at it this way its hard to argue against the fact that these are the best all round value in radials, bar none.

In response to you questions:
Prop is the break in prop suggested =20X8 (Master Airscrew) As you can hear in the video, this engine handles this prop easily.

Max RPM I saw was 7,700 at peak but I run it at 7,550 or so (just a bit rich) using Omega 10% castor

Not sure which tubes you are referring to. The one on the bottom of the engine is the crank drain. There is a silicone tube sticking out from behind the test stand. It's just for filling the tank, that's it.

I am running this engine with no exhaust pressure or pump on the fuel tank...it's just a straight set up there. The tank is a bit higher than the carb so this may be why it idles so low. Pretty fantastic low idle. It may be possible to go even lower on the idle as my linkage and radio trims are maxed here. Glow driver is a must I think this low, however.


Electro Dynamics glow driver is what I'm using (sorry, I miss spoke not Radio South!). it's set to come on at half throttle on down to idle and uses an included 1.2 V / 9,000 mAH D sized battery. It's good for a few tanks but looses power after. This could be a bad battery but there is a fair amount of juice drawn to light all 5 cylinders. I will probably add another D cell or explore a lipo option if I don't need the nose weight.
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:09 AM
  #3268
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Default RE: Everything Radial Engines

i am looking at a on board glow driver for my asp 400,,,,,a company called sonic tronics that i looked up on the internet  has one for a 5 cylinder radial
does anyone have any experience with this driver or any other one that could be recommended  The  sonic driver retails for 153.95 us
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:29 AM
  #3269
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The SonicTronics driver works very well. I have used them on 7 & 9 cylinder radials for some time now. Make sure you follow their recommendations as to battery size. 5 glow plugs will pull 11-15 amps at a time.

Pete
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:08 AM
  #3270
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I have one on my Saito 5 cylinder engine an it works great They have been around a long time
Ric
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:06 PM
  #3271
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thanks for the input , I just ordered a unit today ......should be delivered this week..the price i paid was 105 us + shipping ... better than i thought!
Let you know how it works once i get the engine and the drivers hooked up on the test stand ..thanks!
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:58 AM
  #3272
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new guy here Made this engine about 2 years ago still working on it

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Old 12-01-2011, 10:02 PM
  #3273
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Wow,
Nice work, is it spark ignition or glo? What is the capacity? Has it run yet? Any more photos other than the teasers you put on the site?
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:44 AM
  #3274
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The prints started as 100cc It's called a kenner I bored and stroke it to 175cc It had solid cast iron cylinders
I made them alum. with cast iron sleeve to lose weight It uses 5 seperate cams I'm on my third set
Started out to be spark does not work very well so went to glow Has run up to 4200 rpm when it gets hot
it stops I think my pistons are to tight? I'll try to get video little cold here now Would like to put it on 35 % pitts
thanks not much of a writer more of a machinest
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:27 PM
  #3275
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I wouldn't worry about the writing the engineering speaks for itself, you could try a slightly higher oil content to try and get it to wear in a little more so it won't get as hot and possibly run it rich so it won't nip up, that's if you don't want to have to pull it down and relieve the bores or skim the pistons, that's always the hardest question to answer, you could spend forever chasing your tail. What was the problem with the cams?

Where did the plans come from?

Thanks for the reply, as you can see we're all very keen to findout about the work you're doing, have you started the plane yet?
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