stevesak

My Feedback: (27)

Hi Mark,

The Saito 750 is indeed a one-off engine. It was built by Kelvin, owner/operator of Keleo Creations.

He wanted to build a large radial, so he enlisted the help of a machinist friend to go about it, if my memory serves, they pulled 5 Jugs from two 450r3 engines, but built the case from scratch. I believe that it took much more effort than originally anticipated...

The cam housings were all reused from the 450's, but needed to be staggered to fit, as 5 gears with double the tooth count (cams are geared 2:1 against the crank) will not fit around the teeth on the crank itself.

I think that the 325 uses a 2nd set of gears and reverses the cam lobe placement to solve this issue... Of course, a cam ring would be ideal, but that would have required even more engineering/design work....

Anyway, he built it and he flew it, but later decided to go with gas and replaced it with a Moki (I think). He put it up here at RCU, a
Where I found and purchased it. Thats about it.

stevesak

My Feedback: (27)

Robkamm,

I can't really say that I have a favorite, but rather a favorite dozen or so ,but for different reasons...

Then 1913 Gnome Momosoupape is probably the coolest piece to me, both visually and mechanically.

The Edwards Radials might be the most important. Forest was an amazing machinist and his engines will run forever, and he only made 31 radials. His plans are available at the yahoo group "R_and_R_engines" where many are actively constructing one today.

The Triscamp .059 is also a special one to me. The late Robert Washburn, editor emeritus of Strictly IC magazine, made just eight of them circa 1980. Plans for this one were also published too.

The Berger 7 is a technical marvel. It's a two stroke radial with a tratiditional master/slave Conrad setup, with some amazing engineering to make it work. More about this and several others can be found at Modelenginenews.org search for an article called "Model Two Stroke Radials"

I also really love the Seidel ST-996, 770 and UMS 735, the 9C TechnoPower and Morton... I could go on and on....

Sometimes, my favorite engines are the ones that I don't have yet, like the Robart R780 and OS FR7-420, Authentic Scale 9 and 14 Cyl, Seidel ST-1426, SL150, and countless others.

the Gnome

Hello Steve,

I think it is more that a Perry rump will not work on low vibration engines like flat twins and radials. On radials the carb venturi size is normally choosen that small, that
the air speed in the carb is high enough for the fuel suction.


Jens

Holm und Rippenbruch

cymaz

I emailed the man at Perry Pumps and I was told that a PP would not be of use on a radial.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

One of the coolest model engine advert's I have seen in a while.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Tom, they should offer a poster for 5 dollars for us to put in our workshops. That would look good! -Tom

77chickenhawk

Yeah. !!

That would be my kind of girly poster. Puts the snap on pin up calendar to shame. Lol.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Maxam, I agree completely!

the Gnome

Hello Steve,

that is wrong, most of us would be glad if we can get a working pump, so that we could use bigger carbs. It is not that easy to drive the pump, Pedrry pumps use either vibration of the engine or the suction pulses in the cranc case.

Jens

Holm und Rippenbruch

SL.engines

Hi guys .... I always look away from your work because the passion inside I still do not leave me .... but please do not persecute me, because I still suffer for what I suffered.

Do not be producing more engines will my SL90 Constellation / Steel, SL150 it to anyone I'm sorry, but after so much pain I took this decision. Too many people have tried to take advantage of my talents, rubbing.

Jason is a witness. I look away from the result of Italian justice in whom I trust .... but the greatest satisfaction that I had and that someone finally realized that and avavo reason.

I always read your posts, even from afar .... but still do not know when I'll start to build something for myself and maybe some friends of you I have.

The companySteel produces 90 cc Steel Glow hours and is implementing the new 170cc gas with my support. But very different from my SL 150. This auction has discovered and very similar to the engine or UMS 160 Gas Evolution.

I do not think anyone ever will do a similar engine in the SL150 rods covered with gasoline as the true one, because the costs are too high. This is a real shame because these engines are very similar you are truly made ​​in this way that way.

Greetings to you all and good flights.


Luigi
SL.engines

Orion09

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Guys.I have a Evo 777 radial which Ive been running on a mix of methyl hydrate and 7.5% synthetic.As far as I know methyl hydrate,which I buy at the locale hardware store, is the same as methanol.I have got some negative feedback about this.Included is a fact sheet from Nemco Resources in western Canada servicing the oil and gas industry that produce methanol they also call it methyl hydrate.I hear about guys buying methanol from auto speed shops etc but is the same thing sold at your locale Home Depot? Pete

redball8

My Feedback: (128)

VP Racing Methanol (M1) has a purity of 99.95%, versus the NEMCO methanol spec of 99.85%. So the purity is a little lower. Methanol is so hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) that it won't stay at such high purity once opened, so in fuel use I doubt it would make a big difference. 0.05% is 500 ppm (parts per million), and that's precious little impurity - tough to keep it that pure outside of a laboratory.

What sort of problems are people claiming? Or is it just conjecture?

Orion09

My Feedback: (1)

Mainly conjecture.I think its the fact that you buy it in the paint department under methyl hydrate that makes people balk.I was having second thoughts about using it but it works fine in my radial.The last jug I bought at Home Depot claimed 99.9% on the label.I think Im going to continue using it unless I get a definite reason not to.

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

Um no, when you hack off some of the muffler
it is no longer "Brand New" and can not command a "As new" price.

LOL some of these ebayers.

Guy makes it sounds like he added value by cutting off the bottom stacks.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-KE...item3f18c3cce6

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

But, included in the auction is the hacked off piece of tube!

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

LOL, true.

Problem is that if you have the skill to repair it than you could just make one and save $300

SJN

Just found this cool engine.......though not a radial, it sure sounds ok

http://www.toni-clark.com/english/fr.../vm210_frm.htm

http://www.toni-clark.com/ftp/vm210b2-4t.pdf


Video:

http://www.toni-clark.com/english/se...eo_VM210en.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOPn20qrSsk

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

Not a radial and doesn't sound as cool as a hit and miss engine. LOL

radial1951

*
True, it's no radial. But sure sounds better than ANY 2 stroke! Nice flying...

Regards, RossG
radial1951
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AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

I think my 2-stroke Maytag sounds much better. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVFKAhxQiSo&feature=plcp

One thing about that Boxer engine. Isn’t it amazing that They can make a 210cc boxer and sell it for $2,850 wile MECOA wants $7,500 for a 50cc boxer.

http://www.mecoa.com/kavan/index.htm

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

And really why post the boxer when they sell these!

http://www.toni-clark.com/english/fr...m800r7_frm.htm


Now how to deal with 233 pounds of thrust and stay under the 125 pound plane rule.

Ba! Europeans with their freedom to fly any size plane they want. Makes me sick. Think I'll go out and run a chain through the 30 BMG to get over my jealousy.

http://www.toni-clark.com/english/se...M_R7-800en.htm

I one tiny little 466 pound P-61 Black Widow asking too much?

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

I guess the 420 with it's 124 pounds of thurst will have to do.

http://www.toni-clark.com/english/fr...m420r5_frm.htm

radial1951

*
Hmm... I think you're right, it does sound better. It'll need some wing area to get enough lift.

At least it's got radial cooling fins, sorta... :-)

_________________

Schaublin

Dear Forum,

I have recently bought a German made Seidel ST-770.
The engine is in good condition but was completely blocked up by oil residu so I had to take it apart.

I could not find any markings for the timing so I'm hoping somebody can help me with the right procedure to time the Seidel.

For those that know the inside of the Seidel I'm not sure how to position the crankshaft, small gear and cam and then keep everything together as this assembly is installed in the forward half crancase together with the bearings??

I must be missing something.

Any help is appreciated.

Marc

radial1951

*
Hi Marc, The golden rule when taking anything apart is: "Take photos, make sketches, write notes, list order of parts removal" :-) Are you SURE there are no timing marks?

Radials engines follow certain design rules, depending on the number of cylinders, gearing arrangement, size, etc. The Seidel 7 cyl photos show an internal gear on the cam drum, one intermediate gear, and three sets of lobes on the cam ring. Caution: the 9 cylinder engine will be different.

Your Seidel should therefore have a 6:1 gear ratio between the crankshaft and the internal gear of the cam drum. With one intermediate (idler, planetary) gear, the cam will rotate in the opposite direction to the crankshaft. The position of the intermediate gear is not important, as it is only there to bridge the gap between the crankshaft and the cam drum, having no effect on the gear ratio or cam position.

Theoretically, IF there are no timing marks, one way to get the cam to crank position is to point the crank at Top Dead Centre (TDC) of any cylinder, rotate the cam drum until a pair of lobes (two that are close together!) are equally spaced about that cylinder's cam follower holes, and insert the intermediate gear between the crank and the drum's internal gear. This will be TDC of the exhaust stroke, and about to start the inlet stroke.

At that position, the exhaust valve will be about to close and the inlet valve will be starting to open. That's assuming the valve events are symmetrical about TDC, which is probably the case. Even if they are not symmetrical, you will probably find that there is only one position for the gear teeth to mesh where the cam lobes are anything like in the right place.

When that's done, verify cam follower movement by rotating the crankshaft and watching the cam followers rise and fall at the correct angular positions. BE AWARE that on the next revolution i.e. TDC of the firing stroke, the cam followers will be approx half way between two set of cam lobes and are about to be operated by the NEXT set of lobes on the cam!

BTW, all cam lobes operate the valves of all cylinders. That's why it's a good idea to check tappet clearances at three positions, every second revolution at TDC on the firing stroke. With only a few thou" tappet clearance and (so-so) manufacturing tolerances, it is possible for the base circle of the cam ring to be eccentric to it's axis of rotation. If the gaps are all the same, you only need to do this once.

Of course, all of the bits go into the front gear case in the reverse order of their removal (see golden rule)... Good luck!

Regards, RossG
radial1951
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