Glow Engines Discuss RC glow engines

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Old 09-17-2013, 10:04 PM
  #25451  
Rudolph Hart
 
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Sr any news on the 450 radial you were going to convert to cdi?
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:16 AM
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Originally Posted by blw View Post
Sorry for the low light focus quality. This shows the separator in place and then the puller positioned and ready to crank off the thrust washer.
Thanks BLW.
I have and use the gear puller, but the separator also has threaded holes that allow the use of a simpler and cheaper steering
wheel puller. Or, a "steering wheel puller" type thing can be easily made with a bar and three bolts. Just an alternative option, I have used both methods.

Sincerely, Richard/Club Saito #635: FA 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:47 AM
  #25453  
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Originally Posted by Old Fart View Post
Sr any news on the 450 radial you were going to convert to cdi?
I haven't been getting around well after my knee replacements. Now I am having trouble W/my left foot that has been deformed slightly since my teens. A straight/tight knee is now aggravating that situation.


I do have all the parts needed to start the clearancing work to adapt the FA180 cylinders & FG57 pistons. It took months to get all of the parts from Horizon as I ordered them as they became available. Adrian sent me the CDI conversion a few weeks ago. It is similar to the Saito FG84 ignition system.


Everything but the crank, cams, lifters, pushrods, rockers & valve springs/retainers has been replaced. The result will be 5.12 cu in 12.2:1 compression ratio engine W/a12mm FA220 big bore carburetor & induction improvements. I have had the back plate modified for the larger 16mm threads for modified, straight FA150/180 type manifold.


I'm hoping for a bit over 7 HP. Yesterday I fired up my FA200Ti for the 1st time. After making a few more runs on glow ignition this afternoon to finish the break-in, I'm switching it over to CDI for some comparison testing. When I'm done fiddling W/that, I'll turn my attention to the radial.

Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 09-18-2013 at 03:50 AM.
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:22 AM
  #25454  
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Originally Posted by SrTelemaster150 View Post
C&H sells CDI conversions that can be used with either glow fuel or gasoline. A full gasoline conversion uses a different carburetor.

I prefer to use glow fuel with CDI as methanol has a potential for about 25% more power compared to gasoline.

Converting to CDI with glow fuel will result in a 20% improvement in fuel economy while increasing power slightly over glow ignition when the same glow fuel is employed.
I have a Saito 1.50 that I've run on glow, glow with ignition and gas with the same ignition. All using the original carb. Two differences I saw were a lower RPM idle on ignition and it ran hotter on gas. If I could get E85 fuel around here I'd put the ignition back on and run it on the ethanol fuel.

CR
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Old 09-18-2013, 10:45 AM
  #25455  
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Does anyone know if the 2.70 opposed twin uses the same intake tubes as the 3.00 opposed twin? I'd like to replace the left side intake on mine since it was somewhat hammered on by a previous owner.
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Old 09-19-2013, 01:38 AM
  #25456  
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Is there a compression hike using fg57 pistons or will you mill the barrels.The 450 sounds awesome at idle but the one's i've seen powering aeroplanes are a bit lazy.The 200ti i saw in a tightly cowled mustang did not run that well but sounded nice.Is that why kolm engines run seperate carbys so they can richen up the rear cylinders?

ps hope your buddys here can donate a few titanium screws and a rubberised hockey puck or two
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Old 09-19-2013, 04:29 AM
  #25457  
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Originally Posted by retransit View Post
Does anyone know if the 2.70 opposed twin uses the same intake tubes as the 3.00 opposed twin? I'd like to replace the left side intake on mine since it was somewhat hammered on by a previous owner.
hammered?!!
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Old 09-19-2013, 04:34 AM
  #25458  
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Originally Posted by retransit View Post
Does anyone know if the 2.70 opposed twin uses the same intake tubes as the 3.00 opposed twin? I'd like to replace the left side intake on mine since it was somewhat hammered on by a previous owner.
The FG57 pistons are .016" taller than the FA150 pistons used in the FA450R3D. That & .020" reduction in he case deck will bring compression up to he higher spec.

The taller pistons alone bring compression height to the same a the standard FA180 (9.56:1 CR) but he 1.1mm shorter 150 spec stroke drops CR to 9.23:1.

Milling the FA450R3D deck .020" wil equal the same combustion chamber volume as my 12.7:1 CR FA180HC but again, the shorter stroke will drop CR a bit.
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Old 09-19-2013, 09:54 AM
  #25459  
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Originally Posted by hsukaria View Post
hammered?!!
Yeah, it looks like someone tried to perform some body work on a dented tube which didn't come out too well. By the way, I think I found an answer to my question by looking up the part and checking the applicable alpha code.
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Old 09-22-2013, 06:45 PM
  #25460  
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Here's something that made me very happy today, my 1991 vintage FA-80 running for the first time in over 15 years! (Please excuse the video quality, it was taken with my cellphone.)

http://youtu.be/4tZ8ZVvMf1c Not showing in the video but on the test bench is an unknown vintage FA-91 that I got running a couple of days ago. Need to get bearings for my other 91 and all three of myvSaito engines will be ready to go!
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:58 AM
  #25461  
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Good for you mate,sounds sweet.I think the older style saito mufflers sound better than the later cast one's.
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:51 AM
  #25462  
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Default Saito .30 on the Fritz

Greetings All:

I'm a new to this forum and have a Saito question. Perhaps it's already been covered here, but I'm unsure how to find an answer to a very vexing problem.

My pretty little black and gold Saito .30 is causing me some heartache. After I got it several years ago, it ran beautifully with one-flip starts, etc. I placed it in storage with after-run oil for a few years. Recently I took it out and mistakenly ran it with castor oil blended fuel rather than the required synthetic blend. The result now is very difficult starting and touchy runs, even with the right fuel. I can't recall what the compression was like when it was new, but it seems soft now. I'm not afraid to do a teardown, but would like to some recommendations here first before I do any more damage.

Thanks a bunch!

Dave...
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:58 AM
  #25463  
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Davey, just a side note, the castor oil should not cause you any trouble unless you run it with castor and then let is sit for a very long time without after-run oil causing gumming. So, I suspect your problem is caused by something else.
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:08 AM
  #25464  
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Davey, the all synthetic fuel is neither required nor recommended by most there.. Have you checked the valve lash clearance its not likely the problem but is worth a check. Is the airbleed screw halfway across the inlet hole. What is it doing wrong exactly, the touchy run is not clear enough for us thick headed guys, Thanks, Dave
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:34 AM
  #25465  
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I just went through a whole excercise of an engine that ran great for 6 years now suddenly did not. It turned out to be a silly fuel tank issue. I would also check all your fuel lines, tank, etc...Especially if the engine is in the original airplane and the plane still has all the old fuel lines.
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Old 09-25-2013, 09:59 AM
  #25466  
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Hi all,

I have FA 120 having cylinder with integrated head so obviously it is from mid 1980's. Cylinder has liner inside. Saito has been stored for decades and recently I decided to take it into service and test run it with fuel containing 18% oil ( 84 %synt/ 14% castrol, 7% nitro and balance with methanol.. I got a problem. Liner in cylinder got loose!! It has moved a bit up and down with the piston and lower end of the liner hammered a hold into cup type back end plate of the engine. Ok failure taken place and it is due to loose liner. Obvious reason for loose liner is the unproper liner fit into cylinder which did not hold during thermal expensions between liner and cylinder.

Has anybody had this kind of failure and how it is been repaired?

I would like to repair the engine but I do not know where to get new cylinder with liner and with integrated head fitted and cup type end plate from. Can sombody give me a hint where to get parts? I have heard that in Canada there would be a company selling parts for old Saitos. Who might that be?

It came to my mind also that is it a possibility to replace now broken cylinder by some separate cylinder from Saito with liner having sholder and by separate head which would sequre liner in place in cylinder. Has anybody done this exercise and with which parts?

Koivu
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Old 09-25-2013, 01:37 PM
  #25467  
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Removable head on a Saito? methinks this guy is somewhat confused.
Re synthetic oil in Saitos. Latest info I have (on latest engines, 54, 62 and 115) all say use synthetic only. That is on Saito produced data that came with engines. Also please note the required percentages of oil to be used, different to the "old engines" Me I gave up castor in any of my engines (except diesels) years ago mand not suffered any problems in doing so. In fact by the use of different viscosity synthetics I have been able to get better performance out of the "racing engines" That statement comes with the rider that viscosity change was only one part of the mix and I had the use of sophisticated equipment to measure the changes.
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Old 09-25-2013, 01:51 PM
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Old Fart, good news for me, I am now allowed to drive a vehicle, only an automatic though. Visited the specialist and it cost me $200 to get that announcement. So all have to do is fit new battery to the VT (cold and old age killed it) and I am back in business aeromodelling wise. Flying any way with a little assistance from my friend. The boys are getting all the gear ready for Coota next month and tuning the 65's in particular is paramount. Jim my mate is looking at duration combo's using either the Saito 62 (longer engine run and light engine) as opposed to the YS 63. Depends on the climatic conditions. Texaco (fuel economy) will be a Saito 65 engine. The fuel burn at 4500rpm 4 pound model (approx) is around 3-5 to 4 mls per minute about a 6 to 7 minute engine run with the 15x8 or 6 Bolly a little less with the same size APC but good other wise. Unfortunately I won't be going the arm won't stand the trip, and I am not happy but one learns to live with it but at least the "op" took and no further surgery(at this time) is needed. He (Doc) did say I am off any sort of physical work (back fixing a/c in particular) is out for at least 6 bloody months. Good thing I have 30 + build kits and 6 ARF's looking at me so guess what.
Catch ya
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by FNQFLYER View Post
Re synthetic oil in Saitos. Latest info I have (on latest engines, 54, 62 and 115) all say use synthetic only. That is on Saito produced data that came with engines. Also please note the required percentages of oil to be used, different to the "old engines" Me I gave up castor in any of my engines (except diesels) years ago mand not suffered any problems in doing so. In fact by the use of different viscosity synthetics I have been able to get better performance out of the "racing engines" That statement comes with the rider that viscosity change was only one part of the mix and I had the use of sophisticated equipment to measure the changes.
Uh-oh, here come the "castor police"!
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:25 PM
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No castor police, just knowledgeable, very experienced users who've had no problems using castor and will continue to use it..
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Old 09-26-2013, 02:29 AM
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what ever spins your wheels, one thing I am not into is "forcing" my ideas on any one else. My guiding principals cause me to try not to re invent the wheel, fix what ain't broken and go fast vertically.
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Old 09-26-2013, 02:34 AM
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fnq i still can't believe what size props you run on a 65 enduro set up.My 115 in the midget can only just handle a mas15x8 @ 8500 on the ground.I think castor is not all bad..your mum used to give it to you as a kid to relieve constipation yes?
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Old 09-26-2013, 03:39 AM
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Actually Pete, I toss a little of it in my lawn mower, tiller and Stihl weed eater, just for that dirt biking days smell.
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Old 09-26-2013, 04:55 PM
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Old Fart on a 65 Texaco repeat Texaco (note RPM which is 45 to 4800) we run 15 x8, x7 or x6, This is a fuel economy event looking for long engine runs. For Duration (vertical drag racing), timed engine run 32 seconds we use sparingly 13x6 Bolly or APC or even 12x7 or 8 depending for a 10K Rpm + range. In all cases we are looking for height at the end of the run so we can stay up longer in the glide. A "max" in the rounds for Texaco is 10 minutes and Duration it is 7 minutes. In the fly off it is all up last down essentially, actually the longest flight. That is the basics
I get my castor fix when ever I run my ED's or Burford diesel engines. Mixed with ether it is socially acceptable.
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Old 09-26-2013, 06:08 PM
  #25475  
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Hobbsy and hsukaria:

Bingo! T'was the airbleed screw as Hobbsy so kindly suggested (it was run in a bit too far). It's starting and running just like it used to so will have to make sure that screw stays in place.

My apologies for inadvertently bringing up a past point of contention concerning fuel lubricants. I didn't follow the discussion, but I bet it wasn't nearly as flame-ridden as the controversy over cork closures versus screwcap closures for wine bottles that took place over on the wine enthusiast boards!

Thanks to both of you gents!

Davey...
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