Glow Engines Discuss RC glow engines

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Old 01-18-2014, 10:01 AM
  #26076
Ken Kehlet
 
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Sign me Up, Lots of Saito Power, Past and present. And I sold my 1979 SAITO .60 Ignition Engine along withthe display box Now I run Four Strokes and Electrics.

My 4 year old, slightly modified SIG Kadet Senior wita sweet running SAITO .72.

Thanks for looking,

Ken Kehlet AMA 1528
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:20 PM
  #26077
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I've been hibernating for a while, and I'm sure it's been discussed already, but I just have to say how disappointed I am when I see how many Saito twin- and multi-cylinder glow engines have been discontinued at Horizon. I really wanted the 120R3, but now I'm outta luck I guess. I better start stocking up on parts for my 90TS before those are gone!
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:43 PM
  #26078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rv7garage View Post
I've been hibernating for a while, and I'm sure it's been discussed already, but I just have to say how disappointed I am when I see how many Saito twin- and multi-cylinder glow engines have been discontinued at Horizon. I really wanted the 120R3, but now I'm outta luck I guess. I better start stocking up on parts for my 90TS before those are gone!
Here you go.
https://rcjapan.net/saito-engines-ra...lv36evvq596po6

$546.63, Probably cheaper than Horizon even after shipping.

Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 01-18-2014 at 05:47 PM.
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:50 PM
  #26079
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best relaxing flying plane ever ~!
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:07 PM
  #26080
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Sweet! Thanks. So IOW these engines aren't really discontinued, just no longer profitable for Horizon to distribute in the US. This is why I hate exclusive distributorships; it's really just a monopoly.

Edit: I went ahead and ordered it. Just over $600 shipped! Horizon wants $750 +tax because I live in Illinois, lol. Ummm, no

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Old 01-18-2014, 07:22 PM
  #26081
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Saito still lists the 120R3 as being produced, as well as the FA 220, FA 40A, and FA 30SH. The FA 56 is now a FA 56B. The 170R3 was replaced with the FA 200R3.
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:25 AM
  #26082
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Have you had a chance to run the 200r3 barry? they sound really really nice specially at the lower rpms.

Jim that is a really good idea re putting the stocking over? the mesh ball you stick on the v stack?

Ken i really like the red covering over the ribs always looks good and it's why i bought the pheonix rainbow and diced the electric motor mount so i could fit my saito 30,a good match.

Hello sig man good to see you are still alive and kicking.And now for my weekly joke..nah just kidding.Flew the 182 twin today and it always drops performance when it is this hot but it never seems as bad as running a small block under the same conditions.Mainly because i tend to overpower things..people too sometimes..
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Old 01-19-2014, 06:46 AM
  #26083
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Yes, that is correct. I put the stocking over the mesh ball I put on the stack. Started doing that years ago when I noticed the inside of the stack was brown with dirt I was sucking into an engine that I no longer have.
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Old 01-19-2014, 03:32 PM
  #26084
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I am blow away with the economy of these engines. I have quite a few glow 2 strokes of all sizes but this Saito .62 is just so miserly on fuel it's almost unbelievable! At break in settings it would empty the tank in 8:30 seconds but now that it's properly tuned and broken in I figure that I could fly for around 29 minuets if I wanted too. Setting timer for 20:00 so this leaves me plenty of time to get down and not worry about missed approaches and waive offs.
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:09 AM
  #26085
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1320 down the asphalt isle, from a song.

The old FA .40, .45S. the .50, .56 and .62 are all real sweethearts. Sadly I had to sell this one but I keep the picture.
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:15 AM
  #26086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1320Fastback View Post
I am blow away with the economy of these engines. I have quite a few glow 2 strokes of all sizes but this Saito .62 is just so miserly on fuel it's almost unbelievable! At break in settings it would empty the tank in 8:30 seconds but now that it's properly tuned and broken in I figure that I could fly for around 29 minuets if I wanted too. Setting timer for 20:00 so this leaves me plenty of time to get down and not worry about missed approaches and waive offs.
2-strokes blow about 30% of the fuel unburned out of the exhaust.
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:26 AM
  #26087
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Dan, I ve seen that figure quoted at 40% also, I know that my Fitzpatrick is timed for about 17,000 rpm, when I converted it to Diesel and loaded it down with a 14x6 it actually makes a cloud over the carb and will soak a paper towel very quickly.
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:47 AM
  #26088
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1320F, here is an interesting picture, an old FA .40 and .62 side by side, they are virtually the same size.
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Old 01-20-2014, 03:04 PM
  #26089
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Venturis and intake stacks are a good way to improve fuel economy. Any diesel conversions (to 2 strokes) that I do for Texaco events have an intake stack topped by an OS 1A carby. Stop go racing engines always have a bell mouth venturi on top of th intake. Once I get settled in my new workshop I intend to complete an outstanding project which is constructing an intake venturi for the 65 Saito for Texaco events. From what I have read and seen it should be a worthwhile project
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Old 01-20-2014, 03:10 PM
  #26090
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Hello guys !!

I got a Saito 1.20 in my Hellcat that is locked (Wont Spin) from lack of use on the last 2 to 3 years. I gues Glow Gass residue has dried up inside the Cylinder.

Can anyone give me some advise on how to reactivate this engine and get it back running..??
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Old 01-20-2014, 04:07 PM
  #26091
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Soak it in fuel. Seriously. Take the glow plug out, remove the carb if you can, and submerge that sucker for 24 hrs. Should free it right up
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Old 01-20-2014, 04:09 PM
  #26092
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I find squirting glow fuel in the cylinder and letting it sit a bit usually helps unstick the motor. You can shoot some into the crankcase too through the breather vent, then roll the motor around in your hands to distribute it around into the bearings and under the piston. If it is just a stuck engine from glow residue it should free up and start spinning after it sits a bit.
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Old 01-20-2014, 04:16 PM
  #26093
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OK Noted guys. Some of my club friends have suggest me to use WD40 and submerge it . sounds right to me to use Fuel better though,
I will Unmount tonight and soak in Fuel for at least 24 hours and see how it goes. I have concerns on the valves being stuck also but We will see how it works.

Any other suggestions are welcome..
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:08 PM
  #26094
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Sometimes, a little fuel down the plug hole will free an engine in a few minutes.
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:38 PM
  #26095
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Yes Hobbsy I went with the 62 over the 56 as it weighs only 10 grams more and has the same lower end size. The manual for my old cub recommended the 56 so I figured.... Biggers better
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Old 01-21-2014, 06:03 AM
  #26096
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Phantom, just a quick note on WD40... it's a solvent and would attack any rubber seals. I learned that the hard way on some electrical connectors.

Just my $.02

Bob
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Old 01-21-2014, 09:48 AM
  #26097
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Thanks for the Info Bob. !!! I will Use Glow Fuel to secure best Results. Will keep you posted on results.!!
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:32 PM
  #26098
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I always say, keep WD40 in a separate building from your engines or leave it in the store.
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Old 01-21-2014, 03:09 PM
  #26099
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I don't remember the source for this, but several shipments of WD 40 barrels from different contractors were compared and found to contain different ingredients.
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Old 01-22-2014, 06:48 AM
  #26100
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I wouldn't knock WD40, if it wasn't for that stuff my scroll saw would have been thrown out. It freed everything up and the saw works fine now. It works really good for freeing up rusty things, but would never spray it into an engine unless I am tearing it down and have something stuck from rust.
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