RH

[QUOTE=SrTelemaster150;12011131That engine was run with either excessive valve lash for a long time or it was over revved repeatedly. Either case would have the tappets slamming into the lobe ramps resulting in the abnormal wear patterns exhibited.[/QUOTE]

Sr...

You've piqued my interest on the valve lash issue. If I may, I'd like to dig a little deeper and see if you can offer further advice.

The 82 was my first Saito which I've been running since 2006. I learned early on (most likely in this forum) the necessity of closely monitoring the valve lash settings. As I recall, when the engine started very gradually to run rough awhile after it had been broken in, it was suggested that I check the valve specs. They were out of spec by a good margin, so that's what got me into the valve lash checking routine. Once I got it set properly (?) the engine has been running great. Of course that included regular checks of the valve lash. It was the need to replace the bearings that prompted this latest maintenance inspection that turned up the damage.

So my question has to do with what you meant by 'excessive valve lash'? I think I mentioned earlier in this discussion that I will try setting mine at .0015 as you suggested. Since I've been using .003 to .004 as a target in the past, do you suppose that over a long period of time (several years in this case) this could be the cause of the damage?

>> I've run Cool Power for years W/CDI in an FA-150. Much leaner needle settings than with GI

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I wouldn't cringe at the prop pitch, but I'm not comfortable with less than 1500 rpm headroom between max rpm on the ground and what Saito says is the the absolute max. I'm basing my personal preference on static rpm on what the inflight telemetry systems seem to average in flight. 1500 rpm is most likely excessive, but that's the point.

The cam followers are a harder material than the cam, imo. It would be interesting to see pictures of those.

I agree with excessive lash and/or overspending the engine causing the repetitive damage to the cam.

If you are going to shoot armadillos, use a cartridge of decent power and hit the shell directly. A .22 will just bounce off. You can tell when the bullet hits the him and ricochets because the armadillo will hunker down and hit about 30 mph before you know it.

SrTelemaster150

[QUOTE=RH;12011495]Sr...

You've piqued my interest on the valve lash issue. If I may, I'd like to dig a little deeper and see if you can offer further advice.

The 82 was my first Saito which I've been running since 2006. I learned early on (most likely in this forum) the necessity of closely monitoring the valve lash settings. As I recall, when the engine started very gradually to run rough awhile after it had been broken in, it was suggested that I check the valve specs. They were out of spec by a good margin, so that's what got me into the valve lash checking routine. Once I got it set properly (?) the engine has been running great. Of course that included regular checks of the valve lash. It was the need to replace the bearings that prompted this latest maintenance inspection that turned up the damage.

So my question has to do with what you meant by 'excessive valve lash'? I think I mentioned earlier in this discussion that I will try setting mine at .0015 as you suggested. Since I've been using .003 to .004 as a target in the past, do you suppose that over a long period of time (several years in this case) this could be the cause of the damage?

>> I've run Cool Power for years W/CDI in an FA-150. Much leaner needle settings than with GI

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

I've always used a boomarang from Hobby King; they use a superior plastic. Ya shoot it out in front of the 'diller and catch 'im on the return pass to slow 'im down. They have very sensitive noses.

CR

BJ64

Make sure you keep it - they're supposed to be good eating

BJ

RH

[QUOTE=SrTelemaster150;12011528Setting the lash @ .003" or .004" in itself isn't detrimental as far as significantly accelerated wear. I just see little advantage in setting the lash on the verge of being excessive. On a medium size Saito single, the lash will increase by about .002" as the engine warms to operating temperature, so in theory, one could set lash @ .000" (cold).[/QUOTE]

What you've described here makes a lot of sense. It was a good while ago, but I do recall seeing a valve lash of about .008 to .010 +/- on an engine (both valves) when I first started to check it. It had to be this one. It had gotten to the point that it was running really rough and just resetting the lash cleared it up immediately. It was a good lesson learned. I'll bet you're right in that the damage probably occurred during that period. The up side is that it has been running great ever since even with the damage.

Right from the start I've been very particular about running the prescribed break in scenario, plus some, on a test stand for all of my engines. I haven't seen any where near that difference from the spec on the other Saitos I've broken in. Can I assume that to have an 82 as far out of spec as I experience on this one is unusual?

Good tips. I think I'll play around with checking the difference between the cold and hot settings too.

Regarding the glow ignition, do you have a preference on the different brands and models?

Rick...

yellerchamp

My Feedback: (42)

I just bought a saito 50 four stroke , I am pretty sure it has a 7mmx1 shaft I cant find a part number to order a prop nut, for electric starter, I don't need the heavy hub, that's what my search kept coming to, any one know of part number and where I can get it, horizon or tower....thanks

SrTelemaster150

.010" lash cold would have been .012" hot. That's way too much slop in such a small engine. The tappet was almoist 1/2 way up the ramp before the slack was taken up causing it to gouge into the lobe. If you had continued running it like that, even more damage would have resulted. As it was, you probably caught it in time so that the tappet could ride over the divots in the lobe once the excess lash was taken up.

MY preference for Glow Ignition us to replace it with CDI.

That being said, an FA-82 is getting a bit small to benefit from CDI as most airframes for that size engines won't have the space available for the ignition module & battery pack.

A 1/5 scale J-3 Cub would have plenty of room, but most 40 size aircraft are just too small.

If if you want to compare "hot" lash to cold, leave the rocker covers off after setting the lash cold. Fire the engine up & run it WOT for about 5 minutes. Shut it down immediately from WOT & check the lash. My FA-20Ti grew from .0015" to .0035" lash.

Never attempt to set the lash "hot" as there is too much room for significant temperature variation. Always set the lash at room temperature.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Dan, I think .010" would almost let the pushrod fall out of the rocker.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/propelle...-short-dav8710 I don't know if this is aluminum or brass.

Sullivan Products has taken over Harry Higley, I have the LLK007 set it works pretty slick.
http://harryhigley.com/EngineAccessories1.htm

SrTelemaster150

You can reverse the rubber cone in your starter & use it on the OEM prop nut.

Adaptor nuts can be problematic when a starter is used on them as they tend to want to spin off.

SrTelemaster150

A good practice in you break in routine would be to remove the rocker covers & give the rockers a jiggle just to see if valve lash is present & if it is excessive. If the rockers seem to have a lot of "slop" get out the gauges & do a check. No need to be real precise, just make sure the factory gauge doesn't have extra clearance.

After your break in routine set the lash as it will increase the most during the initial run in. Check it again after a gallon of fuel has been run through & if it hasn't increased significantly, you should be good to go for many hours of run time.

Rudolph Hart

That's why ruger made a 10/22 semi auto with a rotary box magazineflying two saito engines tomorrow on my day off,call me lucky

spaceworm

Is it ok to eat the ones with leprosy? How do you tell? You do have to cook them, right? Marinade? Baked, grilled, fried? Thanks.

Richard

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Hah! That's the rifle I used. I've had it 40+ years. I paid $40 for it new in a J.C. Penney's clothing store.

Next time maybe a 22 Hornet for a head shot. It's already a great day for mischief. A new, and big cat heard the bottle rocket streaking to his left due to sloppy aiming on my part, but he bolted left. It went off a few feet over his head as he was galloping for cover. I could see smoke and bits of paper falling right over him.

FNQFLYER

I use Dubro prop spinners they come in 2 weights and pretty colours and best of all they have an engine guide on the back to tell you what size spinner you should use. And te cone on my Aign starter (a walk a bout one) fits nicely thank you

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Those are great spinners, I have a couple of the Higley LockLite spinners.

Rudolph Hart

It sounds like a lot of fun re the cats.A good gunsmith could convert the 10/22 to full auto in ten minutes but the 50 round banana double stacker mag took a while to function properly,mostly spring tension adjustment but great for shooting heaps of bunnies at night.

Dave did you say you were going to test a 182 twin soon.Asking because i want to go back to factory needle settings on mine as i've been running mine in a h9 taylorcraft for about three years but have had a tuning problem lately,you know,you are in the shed after a days flying and well contented when you have a tuning brainstorm and change a setting because you know this will increase performance and therefore your enjoyment level..one to many beers for the hamster i'm afraid..

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

That is my plan Pete, right now money is talking louder than the 1.82, that might change in a couple of days. Gotta get ready for Church, more later.

BJ64

Didn't know they had leprosy

And dunno how to cook them - just heard they're considered a delicacy down in South America...

BJ

acdii

Lots of Mumbo

Rudolph Hart

I take it you mean they fart real good when shot with a 22 or do they sound more like a saito single when they giddyup after being shot with a 22?

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

I just traded an MDS 36 heli engine for a beat up 100. Could provide spares for my other 2 but had a boo and not as bad as I thought. The biggest problem was the rear bearing was toast and that's one I don't have in my spares. Nuts.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

This is the rear bearing I found in a 1.00 I bought a few months ago. Mr. Boca fixed me right up. Picture #2 is the 1.00 all fixed up.

SrTelemaster150

Dave, did that FA-100 have a steel tapered collet or an aluminum one?

I recently set up a brand new FA-100 W/CDI & it has an aluminum collet that keeps shifting throwing the timing WAY off.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Dan, mine is like this one, yours must not be original.