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Pete- you got me there. I get the fever a couple of times a year without any help of going into bike shops. I've already told the wife a bike is in her future and we have had a few semi-harsh words on that. She's already at her limits with the S 2000 and I need to tone down the driving habits some. Hey, the bike on the left is what I need. And, no saddlebags. There's few words for what I think of that junk. Bare bones motorcycle- the manly way to ride. That is a nice modern & retro look. I don't know. You have me looking at Ducatis now.
Wasp- that's probably a pencil drawing of the cowling. It could be an etching if someone wanted to go through the trouble. I took etching classes in college and maybe that is one.
Wasp- that's probably a pencil drawing of the cowling. It could be an etching if someone wanted to go through the trouble. I took etching classes in college and maybe that is one.
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Hpbbsy,
the guy I got my 130 from had different plugs in it from front to back,, this must be what you mean by "ignition curve"
Jim
Bill Robison was convinced that if you put a cold plug in the front of cylinders you could have a sort of ignition curve
Jim
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: dayton,
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new FG-30b
Hello Saito friends,
Just got a new FG-30b running and flying at Indiana Warbird Campaign this weekend. Installed in a 92" Kangke Monocoupe, 17x8 Zoar prop, 91 octane gas, 20:1 redline oil mix. Engine fired up fine with electric starter, ran 10 minutes below 4000rpm on the ground, then flew it without issues the rest of the weekend. Factory needle settings are turning the 17x8 a little over 7000rpm.
Couple questions:
1) The engine sounds like it's hitting peak rpm before the throttle barrel is fully open. When opened further it sounds bogged down, although I didn't really notice a drop in speed or pulling power. Does this mean the high needle needs adjusted a bit?
2) And now for a "senior moment" question. I didn't really look at the high speed needle screw very well before I installed the engine, just noted the general location of it. Now it's cowled in, and I can't see it. Looked in vain on web for a good picture to no avail. With a small mirror, it looks like it's really inset into the carb body and has a tiny slotted screw. Is that right?
I've had .72 and .90 glow motors, best engines I ever had in 30 years of modeling. Can't say the same for the glow 170R3 though. I hope the gas FG-30b is a good one.
Just got a new FG-30b running and flying at Indiana Warbird Campaign this weekend. Installed in a 92" Kangke Monocoupe, 17x8 Zoar prop, 91 octane gas, 20:1 redline oil mix. Engine fired up fine with electric starter, ran 10 minutes below 4000rpm on the ground, then flew it without issues the rest of the weekend. Factory needle settings are turning the 17x8 a little over 7000rpm.
Couple questions:
1) The engine sounds like it's hitting peak rpm before the throttle barrel is fully open. When opened further it sounds bogged down, although I didn't really notice a drop in speed or pulling power. Does this mean the high needle needs adjusted a bit?
2) And now for a "senior moment" question. I didn't really look at the high speed needle screw very well before I installed the engine, just noted the general location of it. Now it's cowled in, and I can't see it. Looked in vain on web for a good picture to no avail. With a small mirror, it looks like it's really inset into the carb body and has a tiny slotted screw. Is that right?
I've had .72 and .90 glow motors, best engines I ever had in 30 years of modeling. Can't say the same for the glow 170R3 though. I hope the gas FG-30b is a good one.
Boy
i don't want to sound bad but. I flew the hog bipe with the 125 and a 16X8 and it seemed to be way over proped. I didn't get the kind of vertical that I thought I would with that engine. Has anyone run say a 15X8? How ever it did run good its a *****cat of an engine.
i don't want to sound bad but. I flew the hog bipe with the 125 and a 16X8 and it seemed to be way over proped. I didn't get the kind of vertical that I thought I would with that engine. Has anyone run say a 15X8? How ever it did run good its a *****cat of an engine.
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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Numbers, the HS needle appears to be verticle under the carb, the LS needle is inside the carb barrel. In the Horizon manual a vague picture is on page 17.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 09-05-2017 at 03:05 AM. Reason: Spelling
Hello Saito friends,
Just got a new FG-30b running and flying at Indiana Warbird Campaign this weekend. Installed in a 92" Kangke Monocoupe, 17x8 Zoar prop, 91 octane gas, 20:1 redline oil mix. Engine fired up fine with electric starter, ran 10 minutes below 4000rpm on the ground, then flew it without issues the rest of the weekend. Factory needle settings are turning the 17x8 a little over 7000rpm.
Couple questions:
1) The engine sounds like it's hitting peak rpm before the throttle barrel is fully open. When opened further it sounds bogged down, although I didn't really notice a drop in speed or pulling power. Does this mean the high needle needs adjusted a bit?
2) And now for a "senior moment" question. I didn't really look at the high speed needle screw very well before I installed the engine, just noted the general location of it. Now it's cowled in, and I can't see it. Looked in vain on web for a good picture to no avail. With a small mirror, it looks like it's really inset into the carb body and has a tiny slotted screw. Is that right?
I've had .72 and .90 glow motors, best engines I ever had in 30 years of modeling. Can't say the same for the glow 170R3 though. I hope the gas FG-30b is a good one.
Just got a new FG-30b running and flying at Indiana Warbird Campaign this weekend. Installed in a 92" Kangke Monocoupe, 17x8 Zoar prop, 91 octane gas, 20:1 redline oil mix. Engine fired up fine with electric starter, ran 10 minutes below 4000rpm on the ground, then flew it without issues the rest of the weekend. Factory needle settings are turning the 17x8 a little over 7000rpm.
Couple questions:
1) The engine sounds like it's hitting peak rpm before the throttle barrel is fully open. When opened further it sounds bogged down, although I didn't really notice a drop in speed or pulling power. Does this mean the high needle needs adjusted a bit?
2) And now for a "senior moment" question. I didn't really look at the high speed needle screw very well before I installed the engine, just noted the general location of it. Now it's cowled in, and I can't see it. Looked in vain on web for a good picture to no avail. With a small mirror, it looks like it's really inset into the carb body and has a tiny slotted screw. Is that right?
I've had .72 and .90 glow motors, best engines I ever had in 30 years of modeling. Can't say the same for the glow 170R3 though. I hope the gas FG-30b is a good one.
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CaptCrunch, try an APC 15x6 and see how it performs. Maybe it will get better.
We're in Panama City Beach, Florida right now. Florida is going to get hammered hard by hurricane Irma. We drive home on Friday.
We're in Panama City Beach, Florida right now. Florida is going to get hammered hard by hurricane Irma. We drive home on Friday.
Looks like it will hit lower Florida as a Cat 4, but as of now it is the most powerful hurricane ever recorded, which means it will surpass Andrew in damage. The keys could get wiped out from the surge.
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Pete- you got me there. I get the fever a couple of times a year without any help of going into bike shops. I've already told the wife a bike is in her future and we have had a few semi-harsh words on that. She's already at her limits with the S 2000 and I need to tone down the driving habits some. Hey, the bike on the left is what I need. And, no saddlebags. There's few words for what I think of that junk. Bare bones motorcycle- the manly way to ride. That is a nice modern & retro look. I don't know. You have me looking at Ducatis now.
Wasp- that's probably a pencil drawing of the cowling. It could be an etching if someone wanted to go through the trouble. I took etching classes in college and maybe that is one.
Wasp- that's probably a pencil drawing of the cowling. It could be an etching if someone wanted to go through the trouble. I took etching classes in college and maybe that is one.
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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Barry and I good naturedly go round and round about the 15x6 vs 15x8 prop on the 1.25. my newer version turns a Xoar 16x6 at 9,000 +, that might be the way to go.
I had a 1962 Harley Pacer 175 cc two stroke and my friend had a 200 cc Ducati with the Desmo valve train that rattled louder than a Mack 711. Every once in a while we'd get into an impromptu drag race. The Duck was geared fairly tall and didn't launch very well, I would always jump him for about 50', but when he hit second gear he was gone. He left me in the dust at that point.
I had a 1962 Harley Pacer 175 cc two stroke and my friend had a 200 cc Ducati with the Desmo valve train that rattled louder than a Mack 711. Every once in a while we'd get into an impromptu drag race. The Duck was geared fairly tall and didn't launch very well, I would always jump him for about 50', but when he hit second gear he was gone. He left me in the dust at that point.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 09-07-2017 at 02:54 AM.
When the 125 in the Mustang runs, it rips that Scimitar APC I have on it. Not sure what the size is, probably 15 x 8, but it's the first plane of mine to Doppler as it flew by. Loved the sound it made. Now I just need to get it running again, haven't tried since I cleaned it out.
Well this weekend i will go out and test it all out. And let you know. I was in Texas and it was hot. So maybe up here in good old Iowa it will get better. Not Houston a place bay waco
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Dave, the water at Panama City Beach looks like I've never seen it. There are no waves. None. The water is flat and comes in at a snails pace. Eerie looking. Must be due to barometer. We are leaving for home tomorrow.
Dave, I thought that thing was over a 15x6 vs 16x7. It doesn't matter. There was a bit of talk about 125's shipping that were low revvers, like mine. W8YE thought people were being fooled due to the extra hard chrome used. He said some engines needed 3 gallons to break in. My 125 needed a lot to settle down. Maybe more than 2 gallons. For some reason, some 125's were slow revving. Ithink all this went away with the b model.
Dave, I thought that thing was over a 15x6 vs 16x7. It doesn't matter. There was a bit of talk about 125's shipping that were low revvers, like mine. W8YE thought people were being fooled due to the extra hard chrome used. He said some engines needed 3 gallons to break in. My 125 needed a lot to settle down. Maybe more than 2 gallons. For some reason, some 125's were slow revving. Ithink all this went away with the b model.
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Join Date: Dec 2001
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Sorry Barry, I won't bring that up again, in fact it was me who a few years ago said that the early 1.25 non A, was a 9,000 rpm engine. I have been trying to find the engine code for the early one to no avail. All that is out there now is the 1.25a info. I'll keep diggin. I am trying to determine if the valves are larger in the 1.25a. Jim thinks they might be. This picture is old news for most, early 1.25 cylinder on the left 1.25a on the right.
Flew my Saito FG-11 today, had a dead stick because I ran too lean. OOPS. Gave it an adjustment and flew again, and it ran great. I'm on my last tank of the first gallon, so a fresh E-Free Premium will help with leaning it a bit better for more power. The fuel I have is so old that the oil content is probably 10:1. I got a lot of oil on the side of the plane. Problem is that it is so efficient that a 10 ounce tank lasts forever.
I have a problem with the Optikill though, wont shut off no matter what.
I have a problem with the Optikill though, wont shut off no matter what.