SrTelemaster150

Yes, but it's made from foam board and as such it is not suitable for ICE power.

https://store.flitetest.com/ft-simpl...eed-build-kit/


It does build fast though and the wing loading is 10 oz sq ft so it will make an excellent trainer or just a fun plane. The cintruction is perry durable, and foam board for replacment parts is $1 for a 20" x 30" sheet at Dollar Tree.


I had the Norwegian graphics done by Callie Graphics for $14

Jesse Open

SrTelemaster150

Here are some more videos. Did I mention that it can be built with flaps?

SrTelemaster150

It doesn't block the vent at all. On the contrary, it provide positive crankcase ventilation and is much more simple and reliable than an external regulator. (once you know how it works)

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I never said it needed a band aid to idle or run, but the Iron Bay was better than the Saito junk pump for the large carb option.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Dan, for several,years I flew a Mud Duck and an Agri Duck made of the same stuff, there is no issue with a glow engine and I flew the Agri Duck with a Fox .74 Davis Diesel conversion. Actually when I first built the Mud Duck I put my Saito 1.50 on, that didn't work well much above idle, the elevator didn't have enough authority prevent climbing when you tried to go above about 4,500 rpm.

acdii

Hey Dave, have you tried to delete your signature, save it, the add it back?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Yes sir, I change it now and then.

SrTelemaster150

Then, with some modification to the engine mount provisions, this would be a great knock about air frame for an FA-30-56.

It uses a "power pod" that houses the motor/RX etc and there would still be enough room for a small fuel tank.

Plans are available in PDF, but unless you want to pay about $30 for full size prints, they would be on THIRTY SIX 8" X 11 1/2" "tiles".

I was [lannong of get tong the plans in the future in order to build a "spare" airframe. If you wanted to split the cost of printing. we might be able to work something out.

20" x 30" white (non moisture resistant) 5 mm foam board is $1 each at Dollar Tree.

I think it takes about 5 sheets. The (white) non-MR sheet must be painted to prevent delamination of the paper, but it is also easier to get a bond than with the (brown) MR sheets that the kits are laze cut from.

https://files.acrobat.com/a/preview/...f-3ad6e87e65f8

https://files.acrobat.com/a/preview/...c-8829a18d01c8

SrTelemaster150

There's nothing wrong with the Saito pump and it is simpler and more reliable than any external regulator.

It is very easy to set up IF you have instructions. Page 10
https://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/SAI...oke_Manual.pdf

One merely sets the pimp at 2 3/4 turns out, start the engine, adjust HSN/LSN as usual, then refine the setting with the pump as per the instructions.

Jesse Open

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Ok, let me explain further, when I took that picture I had sat a 24 OZ Sullivan fuel tank on my battery box about 22" below the 2.20 to see how the Iron Bay would handle a fuel tank mounted on the CG of a Hangar 9 Cessna 182. I ordered the pump set up and large carb option after I had the engine, the large carb option was a late offering. They didn't actually make a pumped 2.20, the stuff was an after market add on. That should clear everything up, I hope. The Cline Regulator will work from the little .30 up to and including the 2.20. The Iron Bay is marginal,on the little .30 with 2,800 being the low idle. About 2,200 with the Cline.

Dan had better luck adjusting the Saito set up than I did. Maybe I didn't exercise enough patience.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

well guys I did a drill and tap test with my new drill and tap, I first drilled a pilot hole, the test turned out great, the treads were very clean, very nice and the nipple tightened up good, so I know it should come out better on the case with it made with better/stronger alloy, the case is mounted to the jig, all I need to do now is mount and level the jig to the drill/mill,, I do things slow, so one thing at a time, take a brake, it's just the way I have become in the last few years, any hoo it's 2:18 and I have to leave at 3:00 so I will try to get it mounted and leveled but I don't think it's going to happen by 3:00,,

later guys

Jim

Jesse Open

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

I will do that,
I did not get the jig mounted to the mill/drill, maybe tonight

Jim

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

nice !!

Jim

captinjohn

I have a Saito 1.50 that I placed a spark ignition on it. I plan to use strait alcohol with klotz lube. I plan to place it on a real light airplane. What kind of power do you think it will produce? Thanks John

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

I have run my 1.5 with CH ignition on methanol with 10% nitro but not on straight methanol (FAI fuel). I've also run it on gasoline. I would estimate that you'll get about the same performance on FAI as I got on gasoline, which was about 10% fewer WOT RPM than 10% nitro. That's from memory; it was a lot of years ago.

Fact is the engine flew a Ace 4-120 bipe with plenty of power on all those fuels, with the same prop.

CR
EDIT: I forgot to ask you which Saito 1.50 you have. Mine is one of the early high compression engines.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

check out this Saito you haven't seen before

Rudolph Hart

Jesse this aeroplane has my fa220 in it.
Boring as bat droppings jim,just kidding.I always hope saito will dip it's toes in the water and hook up two saito fa220's together in an inline config.When i ran my 220 in on the bench it made you stand back a bit sometimes.

Jesse i like the build quality of your engine test stand but prefer dave's one have you seen it? can't remember if he made it or bought it now but it is set out well and easy to move all in one go.Much better than my improvised soft pine one which lost it's grip on a saito fa115 on the second tank load,boy was that exciting.

ps for all the poor americanos here,still stuck with the old measuring system i was bought up on in schooldays,here's a pic of how easy it is for us southern rednecks now,read the bottom line on the tape and weep

Jesse Open

Wow! That plane looks like a load of excitement! Always liked the race planes of the Golden Age. The clean, agressive lines never grow old.
The 2.20 on my club mates plane is a real honker.It has a real good sound with it's new pipe too. We also have a 3.00 twin in the club that I have worked on. A very impressive engine. Looks like the days of Saito making up exciting new combinations are past.
I had a stand at one time that was very similar to Dave's (Maybe from the same fellow) but went back to the slotted solid block type. A bit heavier but very smooth operating Just one bolt to make a block move and more than solid enough to handle the 2.20 with a good reserve. I am making the base with a tank support and throttle system now. When complete it will be an all in one, self contained unit. IIRC, the one Dave uses is made by a fellow in GB.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

My test stand is a nearly 20 year old PSP that is mounted on a B&B Vibra-Loc system which is mounted on a 6" x 30" x .5" oak board which in turn is laminated between two others using 3 hour epoxy. The boards have stayed fuel proof for all these years. PSP mfr is owned by a lady whose name I forget. So far the PSP has stood the test of time and much use holding engines from an LA .10 to a SuperTigre 4500, I have PSP's back plate adapter for the twins, it has many holes for different engines.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I just ran a new Saito .62-b for 70 minutes at 10 minute intervals starting a 4,000 with the throttle 1/4 open and then at 1,000 rpm intervals 10 minutes each through 9,000, then set needles, then full throttle test.

Engine===Saito .62-b latest version
Exhaust===stock
Fuel===Wildcat 10% 18% full synthetic
Prop===Graupner G Sonic 13 x 6
Plug===OS-f
Max rpm smooth and steady= 10,000
Idle, very smooth 1,820
Transition is quick, clean and smooth.
Max rpm with Turbo Header=10,220

Jesse Open

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

At first years ago I had a wood one, then a J-Tec, both junk, and then the PSP.