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Old 01-02-2019, 03:39 AM
  #38376  
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Pete, will that 200 triple run on that Sport Lager?
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Old 01-02-2019, 03:52 AM
  #38377  
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Originally Posted by acdii View Post
Depending on how involved it gets, I will need the threading attachment for the lathe, $130, Another attachment I can't recall at the moment, another $130, and the rotary table, $450 -600. I first need to plan it all out and start stocking up on materials. I did some shopping around, and if I wanted to make hubs, a 4 1/2" diameter by 5" thick slab is $45, which would give me two mains, maybe the nose as well, but that is a lot of scrap too.

Going to look around to see if there are any metal shops in my area where I can pick up some scraps, especially the chunks needed for the large items like the engine case, and wheel hubs. I have one more input I can use on the CNC for the rotary table, so if I go that route, its another $600 or more. Would make doing the hubs a snap.

Thinking the cylinders from the 90T would be the right size for a 7 cylinder radial, I would have to make the connecting rods though as I doubt the stock ones will work. The tricky part are the cams.

OR start looking for 7 FA-40 engines and come up with a center section to mount them all along with a timing set so they fire in the correct order, and counter driven gears so that they rotate the same direction as the prop.


Let me know some sizes, I have lots of alumuminum on hand and can probably help out. For many years, before getting a rotary table, the good old sine plate was used for a lot of the work you speak of. A litle more setup time and plotting but it did a good job


Regarding the Keleo, the main reason I put one on my FA-170R3 was to clean up the installation! It did that very nicely. The big bonus payoff was I also like the sound a LOT better. Very litle difference, if any in top RPM.
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Old 01-02-2019, 04:26 AM
  #38378  
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Originally Posted by Quikturn View Post



I rechecked TDC and took another shot. The rocker arms look fairly even but the adjustment screw & nut are off. If this is no good then the next step would be to check the push rods, tappets and cam.
I agree with Dave, either different length push rods or different length tappets. Can't be a cam wear problem as the lash adjustment is performed with the tappets resting on the base circle of the cam, ( a non-wear area). The rocker arms look even with one another so it's doubtful it's valve related.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 01-02-2019 at 04:42 AM.
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Old 01-02-2019, 05:11 AM
  #38379  
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Obviously!

Looks like the rocker adjustment screws alone are a big clue as to which side
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Old 01-02-2019, 05:12 AM
  #38380  
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Default Replacement Bearings

I'm getting ready to order bearings for a few engines. I've always used SS bearings from rcbearings.com for my replacements and so far no problems. Are Boca SS bearings worth the extra money? I don't have any high speed applications.

In the past I have replaced Saito bearings with 2RS SS in the front (seals left on). SS shielded in the rear with the forward facing shield removed. That's just what I was shown to do. Does it make a difference whether one or both shields are removed from the rear bearing?

Lonnie
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Old 01-02-2019, 05:21 AM
  #38381  
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Since I after-run oil from the front, I leave the rear shield on the rear bearing in place. Seems to make after-run oiling a bit more effective. Pretty much a personal thing based on the situation.

Last edited by Jesse Open; 01-02-2019 at 05:28 AM. Reason: spacing
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Old 01-02-2019, 06:43 AM
  #38382  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek View Post
I'm getting ready to order bearings for a few engines. I've always used SS bearings from rcbearings.com for my replacements and so far no problems. Are Boca SS bearings worth the extra money? I don't have any high speed applications.

In the past I have replaced Saito bearings with 2RS SS in the front (seals left on). SS shielded in the rear with the forward facing shield removed. That's just what I was shown to do. Does it make a difference whether one or both shields are removed from the rear bearing?

Lonnie
I have purchased bearings from Boca Bearings for more than 20 years but have never bought stainless steel bearings. I just used their hard chrome standards at $11.88 and free shipping. I as Gary does am a religious after run oil guy, most from the rear vents. I've never seen a Boca Bearing get rusty.
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Old 01-02-2019, 07:39 AM
  #38383  
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I put SS bearings from RC Bearings in my 65 and they’re still going strong. The original bearings got rusty after one season even after storing the plane nose down and AFO in the in the engine.
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Old 01-02-2019, 07:44 AM
  #38384  
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OK, I was trying to avoid needlessly taking apart my 100 but for piece of mind I’ll take it apart and see what going on with those valves. That’s what happens when you buy used sometimes.
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Old 01-02-2019, 08:13 AM
  #38385  
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I bought a 'lightly used, like new" Saito 180 that had a 220 push rod fitted on the intake side. I usually completely tear down used engines before I use them. I will never again sell a used engine without having a look inside either. That bit me one time, and that was enough.
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Old 01-02-2019, 08:34 AM
  #38386  
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I my Saito parts bin, (crappy looking cardboard box) there are lifters of different length's but same diameter. I could see the lifters or the pushrods being a possible cause
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:46 AM
  #38387  
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Or even some foreign matter in the push rod socket of the tappet.. Not likely but...
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Old 01-02-2019, 10:39 AM
  #38388  
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One of my Saito's is just like that, one shows more threads than the other. No clue why, all the parts looked the same, and I even swapped the pushrods, made no difference.
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Old 01-02-2019, 10:56 AM
  #38389  
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Never seen one that far off balance but I haven't seen them all, yet
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Old 01-02-2019, 11:40 AM
  #38390  
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hey guys, in Lonnie's photo above, is it a camera optical illusion ? or is his lower "Seal" on the Intake Rod Tube lower than the seal on the Exhaust's side, on my 100 both seals are at the same height


Jim
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Old 01-02-2019, 11:49 PM
  #38391  
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Yes jim it's an illusion,they are even but your eyeball will be lower than the camera lens which is level with the rockers,how's your calculator?

ps good luck with your fa100 quicky
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Old 01-02-2019, 11:50 PM
  #38392  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy View Post
Pete, will that 200 triple run on that Sport Lager?
Sadly no,it's used to tune the owner up
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Old 01-03-2019, 03:03 AM
  #38393  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open View Post
I bought a 'lightly used, like new" Saito 180 that had a 220 push rod fitted on the intake side. I usually completely tear down used engines before I use them.
Originally Posted by Quikturn View Post
That’s what happens when you buy used sometimes.
I've never bought a new rc engine, but I have found tremendous value in most used ones. This 82 I've been messing with was the cleanest looking used engine I've ever purchased. It was mounted on a very new looking H9 P-51 with avionics included. RTF total price $175. How could I turn it down? As it turns turns out I will be putting the same dollars into it as the other three nasty looking used Saitos I purchased in the past. Still, it's worth it to me and I get to further my edumakashun.

Living the nightmare,
Lonnie

Last edited by Glowgeek; 01-03-2019 at 03:25 AM.
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Old 01-03-2019, 03:28 AM
  #38394  
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Please keep us posted on your speriences as you git more and more learnt.
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Old 01-03-2019, 03:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek View Post
I've never bought a new rc engine, but I have found tremendous value in most used ones. This 82 I've been messing with was the cleanest looking used engine I've ever purchased. It was mounted on a very new looking H9 P-51 with avionics included. RTF total price $175. How could I turn it down? As it turns turns out I will be putting the same dollars into it as the other three nasty looking used Saitos I purchased in the past. Still, it's worth it to me and I get to further my edumakashun.

Living the nightmare,
Lonnie
I hear you well.
Just as with the 75 plus mo******les, a few hundred ham radio transmitters and receivers, most of my personal daily drivers; I usually buy basketcases and go through them. Nothing wrong with that! You know exactly what is going on when you are all done.


BTW, the crankpin on your crank looks very much like it had been ground with a wheel badly in need of dressing! Ground surfaces depend on clean, true wheels. Wheels are usually dressed at set intervals however, for any of many reasons, the wheel may load up or breakdown prematurely and without diligent parts inspection you may have a poorly finished surface like that one slip through the system.
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Old 01-03-2019, 04:01 AM
  #38396  
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For those who may have an interest, Tower will have the full line of Sig Aircraft available in mid January: https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=&FVSEARCH=Sig

Last edited by Hobbsy; 01-03-2019 at 04:04 AM. Reason: Add link
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Old 01-03-2019, 04:37 AM
  #38397  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy View Post
For those who may have an interest, Tower will have the full line of Sig Aircraft available in mid January: https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=&FVSEARCH=Sig
And of course SAITO engines are a top choice to power them

For those interested, this is what a full size crank grinder looks like, The one we had was quite a bit older, in fact looked ancient. Still did excellent work.:


Last edited by Jesse Open; 01-03-2019 at 04:42 AM.
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Old 01-03-2019, 06:44 AM
  #38398  
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Pete's favorite LT 40
Perfect place for a Saito 62-B
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Old 01-03-2019, 07:06 AM
  #38399  
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Interesting tail weight.


This is near the exact system I have used for turning and finishing pins on miniature, single throw model engines. Works well and with a Spin Index fixture and a surface grinder you can also grind the pin!
Probably very similar to what the SAITO factory does.



I do not use "thumb pads" for final polishing like this. I prefer a shaped ,halfround wood or nylon block and a bit of 3000 grit "Micromesh®" diamond grit cloth.

Last edited by Jesse Open; 01-03-2019 at 07:29 AM.
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Old 01-03-2019, 09:15 AM
  #38400  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek View Post
I've never bought a new rc engine, but I have found tremendous value in most used ones. This 82 I've been messing with was the cleanest looking used engine I've ever purchased. It was mounted on a very new looking H9 P-51 with avionics included. RTF total price $175. How could I turn it down? As it turns turns out I will be putting the same dollars into it as the other three nasty looking used Saitos I purchased in the past. Still, it's worth it to me and I get to further my edumakashun.

Living the nightmare,
Lonnie
you could buy preowned engines that have never been started, those are good deals, sometimes great deals , some guy just sold (the engine I want) an HP 120 inline 2 stroker, never started on RCgroups for only $200, I really wanted to buy it but 3 things stopped me> 1) it was an original so it didn't have threaded bolt holes for the mufflers, and 2) the seller had only a trade rating of 1, plus #3) no warranty,

don't feel bad about buying that Mustang and finding out the engine needed a lot of work, I too would have bought it, my son loves Mustangs. even still it was a pretty good deal

Jim
Saito engines fly where no glow engine has ever flown before

Last edited by the Wasp; 01-03-2019 at 12:04 PM. Reason: oops
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