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Old 06-12-2019, 12:05 AM
  #40926  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy View Post
When running the 90-T yesterday the left cylinder popped and cracked a couple of times blowing fire out of,the left pipe. In checking things over I discovered that somebody didn't get the intake pipe nut all the way tight. I gave that guy what for and told him to not do that again. I felt better afterward. I also had trouble finding a happy needle setting for the left cylinder. I found a Xoar 14 x 6 to run today.
I'd have bought that ham fisted dunderklumpin mechanic friend of yours a case of beer to slacken off the intake nut on the right cylinder as well, so i could have some flame and backfiring out of that one too.

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Old 06-12-2019, 12:06 AM
  #40927  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open View Post
Yep,

Janis mowed our lawn today. I had a great day flying too
Would her maiden name be joplin?
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Old 06-12-2019, 02:37 AM
  #40928  
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Originally Posted by Rudolph Hart View Post
I'd have bought that ham fisted dunderklumpin mechanic friend of yours a case of beer to slacken off the intake nut on the right cylinder as well, so i could have some flame and backfiring out of that one too.

Thanks Pete, I kept my cool and let logic dictate the physical I gave it, Gary didn't say anything about how neatly i got my fake Swak on those. I took both of those nuts all the way out, lifted the carb as far as the throttle cable would allow and put the thread dope on them.

Jim, I installed the Tru-Turn spinner to provide a little more flywheel for the light weight Xoar.

Speaking of the left cylinder, the left pipe is not crimped, it's just straight, Gary probably knows a better term than crimped. Anyway unless it's my imagination the left side is louder than the right. side.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 06-12-2019 at 02:42 AM. Reason: Add picture
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Old 06-12-2019, 04:41 AM
  #40929  
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Dave,

I did notice, and remained quietly proud.
Just as I didn't rub in the loose pipe pipe. Meantime, think I will send you a tube of the real stuff.
Really though, the engine sure turned out nice
Pete,

She has the same first and middle names " Janis Lynn" but being a Norwegian princess, the last name is closer to Svensen.

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Old 06-12-2019, 12:29 PM
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Garry, thank you for sending my Carb back, but can you please tell me what you did to my Cab to fix it, it doesn't stick now but it's still turns hard enough to over work the servo

it looks to me like you simply polished the barrel ???

Jim
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Old 06-12-2019, 01:11 PM
  #40931  
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Anyone going to Warbirds Over The Ohio in Evansville Indiana this weekend ?
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Old 06-12-2019, 02:02 PM
  #40932  
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Originally Posted by the Wasp View Post
Garry, thank you for sending my Carb back, but can you please tell me what you did to my Cab to fix it, it doesn't stick now but it's still turns hard enough to over work the servo

it looks to me like you simply polished the barrel ???

Jim

I made a sized mandrel,placed it in the bore, greased and rotated it while torqued up to a 125 case.

This is called "bore burnishing"

I did use ultra- ultra fine 8000 grade micro mesh cloth on the barrel.Micromesh at 8000 grade slicks but any metal removal is immeasurable .
it worked very well on the engine here when I was done. I could have gone further but didn't want to over do it.

But , NO, I did not "simply" polish the barrel, The carb body bore was the real problem.


I will send you a brand new carb body and you can keep that one. Sorry for any inconvenience.
Will mail it Friday.

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Old 06-12-2019, 05:56 PM
  #40933  
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Originally Posted by the Wasp View Post
Garry, thank you for sending my Carb back, but can you please tell me what you did to my Cab to fix it, it doesn't stick now but it's still turns hard enough to over work the servo

it looks to me like you simply polished the barrel ???

Jim
Jim, just a thought after reading Gary's reply. The carb mounting surface on your rear cover could be distorted in some way.That could explain why the carb works fine on Gary's engine but binds on yours.

I would sand it flat with 400 grit paper. Leave the cover on the engine while sanding with the paper resting on a flat surface like glass or a cast iron table. Worth a try.

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Old 06-12-2019, 07:24 PM
  #40934  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open View Post



I made a sized mandrel,placed it in the bore, greased and rotated it while torqued up to a 125 case.

This is called "bore burnishing"

I did use ultra- ultra fine 8000 grade micro mesh cloth on the barrel.Micromesh at 8000 grade slicks but any metal removal is immeasurable .
it worked very well on the engine here when I was done. I could have gone further but didn't want to over do it.

But , NO, I did not "simply" polish the barrel, The carb body bore was the real problem.

I will send you a brand new carb body and you can keep that one. Sorry for any inconvenience.
Will mail it Friday.
yes the carbs bore is not true (but that is what I figured first thing), now that Gary has burnishing the bore it's very clean, so when I removed the Barrel I can see where the oil is drawn to the low in the bore, it shows because the oil is darker there.

Gary, thank you, but you do not have to send me a new carb body, that's a $40 part

Lonnie, I checked the carb on the 82's metal back plate, it does the same thing.

personally, people say there is karma, I don't know about that, but I think these two WORLD MODELS planes has jinxed me LOL

Jim
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Old 06-12-2019, 11:51 PM
  #40935  
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Just in case your ever tempted, works a treat over here

Jim do you remember me talking about how it's bad juju to have/or have had, heli parts in your workshop? no self respecting saito pilot would consider doing such a thing would it be cheaper/less frustrating in the long term to just bite the bullet and knock down your existing shed? you know, like start with a clean slate and build another one from the ground up.Seriously tho, it sounds weird having the same problem on two saito carbs....
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Old 06-13-2019, 01:53 AM
  #40936  
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Originally Posted by the Wasp View Post
yes the carbs bore is not true (but that is what I figured first thing), now that Gary has burnishing the bore it's very clean, so when I removed the Barrel I can see where the oil is drawn to the low in the bore, it shows because the oil is darker there.

Gary, thank you, but you do not have to send me a new carb body, that's a $40 part

Lonnie, I checked the carb on the 82's metal back plate, it does the same thing.

personally, people say there is karma, I don't know about that, but I think these two WORLD MODELS planes has jinxed me LOL

Jim

All it takes is to be put on one time with some dirt or unevenness between the carb and backplate, then torqued, or worse yet, overtorqued to distort that bore,
I could easily see the high spot as at first look.
The carb worked very freely when mounted on my 125 and properly torqued. It will certainly free up with use and some heat cycling.
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Old 06-13-2019, 02:05 AM
  #40937  
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12 inch pounds is the max I go on the two carb bolts, I go 10 on the back plate bolts. I've not seen the draggy carb barrel except on a castor queen. On the little 30 I go 8 and 10. 12 inch pounds is almost easy to break loose with a hex wrench but they never come loose on their own. I never loc-Tite them.
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Old 06-13-2019, 02:09 AM
  #40938  
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Originally Posted by SigMan View Post
Ys engines has there own Club thread, i figured i would start us one to. so sound off about anything saito. my 91 4[sm=punching.gif]-stroke ROCKS MY SIG SENIOR!
I won't be attending that event, I think we're having one of our own. When you started this thread did you ever dream that this would go for years and 40,000 plus posts. It's good to see you here.

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Old 06-13-2019, 04:17 AM
  #40939  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy View Post
12 inch pounds is the max I go on the two carb bolts, I go 10 on the back plate bolts. I've not seen the draggy carb barrel except on a castor queen. On the little 30 I go 8 and 10. 12 inch pounds is almost easy to break loose with a hex wrench but they never come loose on their own. I never loc-Tite them.

No castor queen, this was a new carb. The torque is important though. Those bodies are thin section and closely fitted. That is why metal removal is not a desireable repair method.

ALL of my engines are "castor queens " for a long time now and I can guarantee the throttle barrels are always buttery smooth, and just as importantly, very leak free. The trick is knowing the right amount of castor to use.
At 2%, gumming is not an issue. We live and learn.
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Old 06-13-2019, 05:18 AM
  #40940  
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Good point Gary, I hadn't considered that a little castor in the fuel may help seal up any potential air leaks around the throttle barrel. Running 2.5% castor for a while now I have not seen any negative side effects ie no gumming of valves or fuel tanks or locked up throttle barrels after prolonged storage. The positive attributes of the use of castor at the correct proportions in 4 strokes would be hard to argue imo.

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Old 06-13-2019, 07:59 AM
  #40941  
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no BS, I simply snug it down and the carb drags, I have been in the hobby for almost 20 years and never had a carb drag like this, the original 100 carb didn't do this, my 115 cab doesn't do this, my 82 carb doesn't do this even when they are tighten down more, the carb is F'ed up

Jim
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Old 06-13-2019, 08:25 AM
  #40942  
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Stand behind an engine burning castor for a while, will clean you right out!
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Old 06-13-2019, 09:16 AM
  #40943  
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Originally Posted by the Wasp View Post
no BS, I simply snug it down and the carb drags, I have been in the hobby for almost 20 years and never had a carb drag like this, the original 100 carb didn't do this, my 115 cab doesn't do this, my 82 carb doesn't do this even when they are tighten down more, the carb is F'ed up

Jim
Could be cross contamination, you haven't stored it next to a YS or something have you?
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Old 06-13-2019, 09:51 AM
  #40944  
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Originally Posted by the Wasp View Post
no BS, I simply snug it down and the carb drags, I have been in the hobby for almost 20 years and never had a carb drag like this, the original 100 carb didn't do this, my 115 cab doesn't do this, my 82 carb doesn't do this even when they are tighten down more, the carb is F'ed up

Jim
I believe you! It was smooth here when torqued to spec. Very slight drag but the 9001 Servo would easily have driven it. The point is, somewhere along the way it was distorted. Very easy to see. Could have been at the factory, there may have been a chip of metal between the holding fixture and the carb body. It got clamped and bored. When released the bore reflected the distortion that only shows up when pulled tight! Really simple stuff.

Doesn't happen with YS engines though

I will takke the NEW carb off of my Brand New 100, crush it in a punch press and toss it in the field. I am fixing that F'ed up thing and running it forever!
After all, it IS only a Saito!

I could very easily free it up some more. I will send you a new body tomorrow, the pain is too much to bear

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Old 06-13-2019, 12:46 PM
  #40945  
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Dang Jim I feel terrible, what with me keeping the 100 carb you sent me try out and sending you back a new but defective replacement. Bad juju for sure.

Gary, I received the 60T package yesterday. Thanks.
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Old 06-13-2019, 01:19 PM
  #40946  
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Look at my engine work space, three projects going on all at once, going over the 182 and getting it ready to run, installing new points in the 80 XR and installing a Power Panel in my Flight Box. I made up new cables to the 300 amp battery and new cables to

Saito 182 wearing a Windsor Maple 18 x 6 prop and Tru-Turn spinner.
the fuel pump.

PS, I recuse myself from YS and Castor talk since I don't use either. The 182 has four Fox Miracle's in it.
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Old 06-13-2019, 01:45 PM
  #40947  
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Nice looking 182T Dave!

What method do you twin needle twin guys use for tuning? Infrared thermometer? The ol' trusty ear? Maybe by feeling the head temps?
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Old 06-13-2019, 02:37 PM
  #40948  
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S

Hmmmm,

Only three? Got 4 jobs going with the day job.
Doing lower control arms on the neighbors car tomorrow, after work of course and just got asked to work Saturday, 10 hours. Tonight, finishing up the parts for a custom exhaust on the Dragonlady 120. Just finished digging down to the access cover for the sceptic tank, in the rain. The fellow is pumping that out tomorrow.

Right now, packing up the new carb body for mailing. Here is a pic of the factory sealed, brandy new, never molested body that is going out , along with the custom turned brass burnish tool. I could make one about .0003" larger to save the other body in about 10 minutes! And will

This Sunday, if it rains, one of these FG20 Saitos will have a new CDI, methanol carb, ring bearings . It will be broken in, tuned and on its way home by the 4th of July, which happens to be my birthday. Oh , did I mention 60 hours work on day job again next week? Still looking for things to do.

We all have our fun!

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Old 06-13-2019, 03:14 PM
  #40949  
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Well heck happy birthday in advance Gary! I hope you're buying yourself something nice.

"Still looking for things to do"? Some putz on this thread needs a 15 exhaust adaptor and would be thrilled to send some funds your direction.
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Old 06-13-2019, 04:44 PM
  #40950  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek View Post
Nice looking 182T Dave!

What method do you twin needle twin guys use for tuning? Infrared thermometer? The ol' trusty ear? Maybe by feeling the head temps?
I use the tachometer method and there is a subtle change in the sound just past the peak. The 182 will be a new experience for me, I never owned one before.


PS, if any of you would like a Keleo ring for a Saito 120 triple, I have one, I can't get it on there no matter how many tricks I try. I had a 90 triple previously and that ring was a piece of cake to install on it.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 06-15-2019 at 03:31 PM.
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