Welcome to Club SAITO !
06-30-2019, 04:38 AM
Someone said something about crashing test stand’s.
Word of advice if ever get a notion to put your helicopter on top of an aluminum ladder for easier tuning make sure you tie down or put weight on the bottom of the ladder because A 30 size helicopter can pick up an aluminum ladder and make the biggest mess in your garage you ever seen
Word of advice if ever get a notion to put your helicopter on top of an aluminum ladder for easier tuning make sure you tie down or put weight on the bottom of the ladder because A 30 size helicopter can pick up an aluminum ladder and make the biggest mess in your garage you ever seen
06-30-2019, 04:39 AM
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It will be flown Wednesday on my ancient RCM 40 ARF, it has flown with everything from a Webra 40 SilverLine to an OS 56 Alpha and a Saito 62. An Enya 53 was in there somewhere. Oh yes, and a Black Merco 50.
06-30-2019, 04:42 AM
Also I done did it
I dug deep into the bottom of my pocket and pulled out some of them moldy green backs and bought a Saito 300 twin duel carb. Like I didn’t have enough complication in my life. Lol
I dug deep into the bottom of my pocket and pulled out some of them moldy green backs and bought a Saito 300 twin duel carb. Like I didn’t have enough complication in my life. Lol
06-30-2019, 04:58 AM
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Merco 50 wearing a Graupner 12 x 6.
Congrat's Mike, let us in on the stats you get when time allows. My current 182 is the largest twin I've owned and a 220 the largest single. Merco's were called poor man's four strokes because they were designed to turn big props at 9,500 and under, they would do,that all day long without so much as a hiccup.
Reminiscing a little I came up with a picture of my RCM 40 with the MERCO 50 on it.
06-30-2019, 05:04 AM
Be aware, stainless steel screws in aluminum are generally bad juju. Galvanic corrosion is the problem.
Not likely a problem in this cosmetic use but it can lead to failures. Seen the stainless screws totally sieze in aluminum where the were impossible to remove.
Shouldn't be a problem here but a bit of anti-sieze doesn't hurt.
Buchanan Wheel will make up just about any spoke
Not a bad idea to do the full set and relace the entire wheel.
Not likely a problem in this cosmetic use but it can lead to failures. Seen the stainless screws totally sieze in aluminum where the were impossible to remove.
Shouldn't be a problem here but a bit of anti-sieze doesn't hurt.
Buchanan Wheel will make up just about any spoke
Not a bad idea to do the full set and relace the entire wheel.
I relaced a lot of wheels back in my mountain bike racing days. Cross 2,3 and radially laced depending on the application. Can be very confusing the first time you try it and near impossible to get right without a truing machine or a jig. No for the faint of heart.
Thank you sir.
06-30-2019, 05:08 AM
Nice! Did you buy it for a particular plane or are you going plane shopping?
Wish I was there to see the heli ladder episode.
06-30-2019, 06:05 AM
Yep, stainless screws in aluminum are prone to galling and lock up solid. Seen it many times in test fixtures at Dell. Antiseize helped but it's no guarantee. The answer was to swap the screws out.
I relaced a lot of wheels back in my mountain bike racing days. Cross 2,3 and radially laced depending on the application. Can be very confusing the first time you try it and near impossible to get right without a truing machine or a jig. No for the faint of heart.
Thank you sir.
I relaced a lot of wheels back in my mountain bike racing days. Cross 2,3 and radially laced depending on the application. Can be very confusing the first time you try it and near impossible to get right without a truing machine or a jig. No for the faint of heart.
Thank you sir.
Draw a reference circle around the pin. That takes care of the initial lacing.
Before making a real truing stand, I useda spindle I the vise and a wire screwed to the bench. Wheels turned out fine You could pluck the spikes and get the same sound all around . Bikes do feel better with well tensioned, true spokes!
Once you smell that stainless, aluminum corrosion you never forget.
06-30-2019, 06:46 AM
The twin carb’s scare a lot of people, but i believe that a little patients and know how I will get it running great
But other then that I just love these Saito engine’s so I have a tendency to buy them just because. but the 300 I have a couple of ideas. Like a Sundancer and a hots biplane.
06-30-2019, 07:43 AM
Knowing You Crunch, I can just imagine the havoc with that heli! I'm sitting here LMAO at that.
Note about stainless screws, they are not as strong as the regular steel ones. Two things you never want to merge with aluminum, stainless steel and galvanized steel. One little bit of electrolyte and they corrode the aluminum instantly. Phosphate coated are the best to use with aluminum. Only exception to this rule is Anodized Aluminum, you can mate those metals to the surface without issues, the anodizing is a good barrier. All the fittings and fasteners that are being used on the B-17 are coated of some sort to prevent corrosion. Some of them are pretty damned expensive too.
Note about stainless screws, they are not as strong as the regular steel ones. Two things you never want to merge with aluminum, stainless steel and galvanized steel. One little bit of electrolyte and they corrode the aluminum instantly. Phosphate coated are the best to use with aluminum. Only exception to this rule is Anodized Aluminum, you can mate those metals to the surface without issues, the anodizing is a good barrier. All the fittings and fasteners that are being used on the B-17 are coated of some sort to prevent corrosion. Some of them are pretty damned expensive too.
06-30-2019, 09:24 AM
06-30-2019, 11:01 AM
Havent been there is quite some time, but from what I heard, its coming along great. They got an actual E model top turret for it too. The bomb bay was gutted last time I was out. They are replacing all the structural members for the catwalk and both wing joiners, or what ever they call them, the name escapes me at the moment.
06-30-2019, 10:26 PM
Remember gary talking about bad juju capt? don't go near heli's
Gary i spent a few years painting superyachts and car ferries made from aluminium and understand how difficult it is to remove all the stainless fittings. although sacrificial anodes help. For display purposes i see no harm in using stainless or am i missing something? that was a funny story about the wd40, i'm not going to try and test it tho.
Dave do you have any old pics of kmot's display saito's, i liked the red one. If he's got any green one's it's ok to leave them out.
07-01-2019, 12:49 AM
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Hello everyone,
I have just acquired my first 4-stroke engine, an FA-150 and it's new to me because I had only used 2-stroke
with wich I recently had some trouble with the neighborhood because of the noise.
I am looking for information to try to get even quieter operation.
Having reviewed the subject Club Saito my attention was retained by a post on the anti-reversion system (p 1584 by Jesse Open.).
I had already heard about these accessories for motorcycles but never for our aircraft engines.
Whenever possible I like to do things on my own rather than systematically buying all the material advertised.
I would like to try to make this system to test it.
Could someone give me details on the operation of this system, sizing and adjustment.
What gain can we expect in rpm and especially in db ?
Thank you for any information.
Excuse my bad English.
I have just acquired my first 4-stroke engine, an FA-150 and it's new to me because I had only used 2-stroke
with wich I recently had some trouble with the neighborhood because of the noise.
I am looking for information to try to get even quieter operation.
Having reviewed the subject Club Saito my attention was retained by a post on the anti-reversion system (p 1584 by Jesse Open.).
I had already heard about these accessories for motorcycles but never for our aircraft engines.
Whenever possible I like to do things on my own rather than systematically buying all the material advertised.
I would like to try to make this system to test it.
Could someone give me details on the operation of this system, sizing and adjustment.
What gain can we expect in rpm and especially in db ?
Thank you for any information.
Excuse my bad English.
07-01-2019, 03:40 AM
Gary i spent a few years painting superyachts and car ferries made from aluminium and understand how difficult it is to remove all the stainless fittings. although sacrificial anodes help. For display purposes i see no harm in using stainless or am i missing something? that was a funny story about the wd40, i'm not going to try and test it tho.
t.
No problem with the little toy display engines. I was just offering caution regarding using stainless in aluminum for real stuff!
Geez, Those once beautiful Saitos sure look sad with all that lipstick, eye shadow and rouge.
The green one suffered about the least.
07-01-2019, 03:54 AM
Hello everyone,
I have just acquired my first 4-stroke engine, an FA-150 and it's new to me because I had only used 2-stroke
with wich I recently had some trouble with the neighborhood because of the noise.
I am looking for information to try to get even quieter operation.
Having reviewed the subject Club Saito my attention was retained by a post on the anti-reversion system (p 1584 by Jesse Open.).
I had already heard about these accessories for motorcycles but never for our aircraft engines.
Whenever possible I like to do things on my own rather than systematically buying all the material advertised.
I would like to try to make this system to test it.
Could someone give me details on the operation of this system, sizing and adjustment.
What gain can we expect in rpm and especially in db ?
Thank you for any information.
Excuse my bad English.
I have just acquired my first 4-stroke engine, an FA-150 and it's new to me because I had only used 2-stroke
with wich I recently had some trouble with the neighborhood because of the noise.
I am looking for information to try to get even quieter operation.
Having reviewed the subject Club Saito my attention was retained by a post on the anti-reversion system (p 1584 by Jesse Open.).
I had already heard about these accessories for motorcycles but never for our aircraft engines.
Whenever possible I like to do things on my own rather than systematically buying all the material advertised.
I would like to try to make this system to test it.
Could someone give me details on the operation of this system, sizing and adjustment.
What gain can we expect in rpm and especially in db ?
Thank you for any information.
Excuse my bad English.
That anti-reversion pipe was actually not real quiet. I can give you some details on this very quiet canister muffler.
https://ia801508.us.archive.org/29/i...B5C69FFDDC.mp4
The video is deceiving since the exhaust note is so low , the other mechanical noises and prop noise overpower it.
Let us know what tools you have on hand as well. These systems can be made from other materials using other methods and the equipment on hand determines those methods.
07-01-2019, 05:01 AM
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I know that exhaust systems are very difficult to develop. With our small means it takes a good dose of empiricism and luck to find the right recipe. But the subject is interesting and the only risk is to devote a little time and try some tests.
Nothing more, no risk for the engine or the wallet.
Why not try.
Nothing more, no risk for the engine or the wallet.
Why not try.
07-01-2019, 05:28 AM
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Welcome aboard,
That anti-reversion pipe was actually not real quiet. I can give you some details on this very quiet canister muffler.
The video is deceiving since the exhaust note is so low , the other mechanical noises and prop noise overpower it.
Let us know what tools you have on hand as well. These systems can be made from other materials using other methods and the equipment on hand determines those methods.
That anti-reversion pipe was actually not real quiet. I can give you some details on this very quiet canister muffler.
The video is deceiving since the exhaust note is so low , the other mechanical noises and prop noise overpower it.
Let us know what tools you have on hand as well. These systems can be made from other materials using other methods and the equipment on hand determines those methods.
Hello Jesse,
according to you i can not hope to improve the sound of the engine with an anti-reversion system?
I watched your video and actually in slow motion the sound of the exhaust is covered by noise. The muffler seems pretty effective.
I would like to have more details on this realization.
I have the traditional tools of a handyman workshop and also a metal lathe. A friend can also have me soldering aluminum parts.
Thank you for your interest in my cas
according to you i can not hope to improve the sound of the engine with an anti-reversion system?
I watched your video and actually in slow motion the sound of the exhaust is covered by noise. The muffler seems pretty effective.
I would like to have more details on this realization.
I have the traditional tools of a handyman workshop and also a metal lathe. A friend can also have me soldering aluminum parts.
Thank you for your interest in my cas
07-01-2019, 05:32 AM
I know that exhaust systems are very difficult to develop. With our small means it takes a good dose of empiricism and luck to find the right recipe. But the subject is interesting and the only risk is to devote a little time and try some tests.
Nothing more, no risk for the engine or the wallet.
Why not try.
Nothing more, no risk for the engine or the wallet.
Why not try.
Paint for beautiful aluminum?
Real easy: clear or invisible. Polished or brushed finishes look great. Like with makeup on old hard ladies, paint just covers sin
Just dip them in castor oil and stick them in the oven at 375F LOL
(My positive tip for the day)
Last edited by Jesse Open; 07-01-2019 at 05:43 AM.