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Old 10-09-2019, 05:47 PM
  #42676  
acdii
 
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Originally Posted by retransit View Post
Anyone have suggestions for loosening up a carburetor barrel on a Saito 1.80? It's been dormant for four years while I diverted to rebuilding Honda Trail 70's and S90's. No corrosion that I can see with the back plate off. Valves were a bit gummy, but now move freely.

I tried some heat on the casting, PB Blaster, carb cleaner, etc. with no luck. Presently, it's in a mixture of acetone and tranny fluid.
Soak it in denatured alcohol. It is the closest to methanol you can find in the store that will help loosen up the gum and varnish. Let it soak a while then occasionally try working the throttle. Eventually it will eat into the crud and start to loosen it up. I had two different engines that were completely locked up from castor and was able to free them both up this way. I just get one of those plastic food containers with a lid, put the engine in it, cover with alcohol and cover it up so it doesn't evaporate.

Originally Posted by Jesse Open View Post
A well trained British " Engineer" would sooner use a proper box spanner. Of course, when they stamp a size marking in a spanner, the marking is for the bolt diameter, not the actual A.F. or "Across Flats" dimension as used with SAE and Metric wrenches.
And a 5/16 diameter Whitworth screw or nut uses a different across flats wrench than the 5/16 diameter "BSF" or "British Standard Fine". Working on those Brit Bikes, cars and a few aircraft engines at too early an age can warp one's mind for life!

Perhaps you have noticed?

Yes, I remember years ago coming across BSF wrenches and wondered What the Heii! I sat there scratching my head and of course there was no such thing as google back then, let alone a computer. A neighbor of mine saw the wrenches and explained what they were.
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Old 10-09-2019, 06:17 PM
  #42677  
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I've had desent luck with a monocoat hot air gun.Moved it around while heating. But a course the last time I ended up burning a finger on the hot carb. What is the preferred oil for after run or long term preserving. i have been using atf (automatic transmission fluid). Works great on my drill press collum, but I've seen a few stiff engines that i long termed stored that way.

Ken
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Old 10-09-2019, 10:07 PM
  #42678  
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Originally Posted by acdii View Post
Ok, now look what you have gone and made me do.

Hi I'm Andy, and I have a problem. I love Saito engines. I caress them, I run them, I ogle them.

Check my sig
You got a problem alright it's too late to come clean with a real name, your still bruce to me.
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Old 10-09-2019, 10:16 PM
  #42679  
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Gary is right all those different af,bsf etc measuring systems are confusing. In outback australia we favour the red spanner, fits everything.

Originally Posted by Glowgeek View Post
I tried using my teeth but it hurt.
Take your false teeth out before you use them it's easier on the jaw muscles.

ps ken on a sensible note atf works fine tho some here like marvel mystery oil or corrosion x etc.
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Old 10-10-2019, 03:13 AM
  #42680  
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No "Bruce Force" required.
This is the best thing of all, it usually gets them loose overnight and if a couple of drops are applied at storage time the barrel will never get stuck.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 10-10-2019 at 03:16 AM.
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Old 10-10-2019, 03:23 AM
  #42681  
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The 65 I just got is in great shape the exhaust valve isnít even black. However the exhaust is missing and the fuel inlet and needle valve are missing this is the old air blade carburetor. So now what do I do. Gary didnít I see where you made one? Or itís Saito 80 carb time.
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Old 10-10-2019, 03:45 AM
  #42682  
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If that is this carb, it is a very good one being metered with an airbleed trim. I probably have a NV and a fuel inlet. I'll check.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 10-10-2019 at 03:47 AM.
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Old 10-10-2019, 03:54 AM
  #42683  
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Another question has anyone run ceramic bearings?
are they worth the extra cost?
Would they help with making a performance race engine for P-51 that I am planning to build.
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Old 10-10-2019, 03:55 AM
  #42684  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy View Post

If that is this carb, it is a very good one being metered with an airbleed trim. I probably have a NV and a fuel inlet. I'll check.
yup thatís the one.
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Old 10-10-2019, 03:58 AM
  #42685  
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I installed ceramic bearings in a Fox 50, other than filling the bearings bores, nothing changed.
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Old 10-10-2019, 04:03 AM
  #42686  
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Check this out
this engine hasnít even been run.


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Old 10-10-2019, 04:37 AM
  #42687  
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Originally Posted by flyingagin View Post
I've had desent luck with a monocoat hot air gun.Moved it around while heating. But a course the last time I ended up burning a finger on the hot carb. What is the preferred oil for after run or long term preserving. i have been using atf (automatic transmission fluid). Works great on my drill press collum, but I've seen a few stiff engines that i long termed stored that way.

Ken
I use ATF during the flying season and CorrosionX for long term storage.
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Old 10-10-2019, 04:46 AM
  #42688  
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Nice!
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Old 10-10-2019, 04:48 AM
  #42689  
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Great find Crunchy.
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Old 10-10-2019, 04:51 AM
  #42690  
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Uh Oh, not such an easy fix, I do have the HS needle.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 10-10-2019 at 05:04 AM. Reason: Add picture
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Old 10-10-2019, 05:10 AM
  #42691  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy View Post



Uh Oh, not such an easy fix, I do have the HS needle.
thatís awesome Dave can I talk you out of that.
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Old 10-10-2019, 06:02 AM
  #42692  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy View Post



Uh Oh, not such an easy fix, I do have the HS needle.

Been there, fixed one already. Posted the pics here too
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Old 10-10-2019, 07:45 AM
  #42693  
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Sorry Cap, that is the one in my 65, I didn't mean to mislead. with the HS needle seat integral with it, it requires a Gary fix. My other 65 has the later carb.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 10-10-2019 at 12:56 PM.
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Old 10-10-2019, 12:36 PM
  #42694  
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I used a needle holder from an older 120 single. Had to turn down the broken portion of the original 65 needle to make a pill that I then soldered in place into a bored out end of the 120 needle holder. A bit of close work and had to make a mandrel to turn down the broken stub.













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Old 10-10-2019, 12:38 PM
  #42695  
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I don't know about anyone else but I'm really impressed!

Mike
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Old 10-10-2019, 12:57 PM
  #42696  
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Thanks Mike.
Here It is, in place on the early Saito 65.
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Old 10-10-2019, 02:10 PM
  #42697  
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Yeah Gary, I remember you posting that 65 fix not too long ago. Impressive then, impressive now.
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Old 10-10-2019, 02:29 PM
  #42698  
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I figured the pics may be helpful in the event somebody wanted to have a go at it.
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Old 10-10-2019, 02:29 PM
  #42699  
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Gary, I PM'd you.

For those getting white screens when trying to post to the thread or PM's ive found that hitting the back button in my browser takes me back to the message so I can resend. I had to resend the last PM 3 times before it finally went through but at least I didn't lose what I wrote.
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Old 10-10-2019, 03:26 PM
  #42700  
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I think old man Saito would have approved of your work!
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