iflyfisher

I thought I read something on this recently, but I can't seem to find it. I had my CG Ulimate out this evening for its maiden, but I was grounded. I couldn't get the HS needle set. Go figger, this is usually fairly easy, but with my 18x6 prop, I couldn't get the 150 to unload. I started with the HS open about 5 turns and kept closing it a click or two at a time, waiting several seconds each time for the engine to adjust. It wouldn't move much above 7k. I'd get around 4 turns open, and the engine would stall while wide open. It was still blowing heavy smoke, but I thought it must be lean, so I'd open it back up a couple of turns and start over. I ran about three tanks of fuel through, but finally gave up as I kept getting the same results. I had run the engine for about 30 minutes a week ago at no higher than 4k and the HS needle open about 5 turns. I thought I might have to install a smaller prop. Since I've come home, I did some searching, and I saw where at least some of you were running between 2 and 2 1/2 turns open. If that is the case, I wasn't even close. But what I don't know is why the engine was stalling around 4 turns. I didn't want to run this new engine too lean, so I never really got beyond 4 turns.

Do I just go back out with the same 16x8 prop and start tweaking with the HS needle set around 3 turns? Do I put on a smaller prop? If so, what? Idle was terrific. It settled down around 2.8k and would run there indefinately.

Ken

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I use the 16 X 8.

A 18 X 6 is too much prop.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Ken- it sounds like you were too rich. Lean it out until it peaks and then back off a few hundred RPM.

rchotrod- you are member #548


Anybody else need to sign up?

rchotrod

Any tips on the care and feeding of this older 90t? I kind of understand the manual even with the confusing translations sometimes.

The nipple on the back is clean air in for the vane pump and the nipple up front on the bottom is air out? Is there alot that will come out of the front nipple?

Will be using one clunk for fuel pickup to each of the two needles and a single line for exhaust pressure. On board glow for those really slow dawn patrol fly bys.

On break in by the manual, I adjust the high speed needles for rpm about 4000, run for 30 seconds, then adjust needles for peak rpm, run for 30 seconds, then adjust needles for 6000 rpm, run 30 seconds. And repeat for 3 min. Then I assume I let it cool down and repeat entire process?

Manual also says to not fly at peak rpm for 10 flights. So can I just fly nice easy flights with engine plenty rich from the start? Seems that would be alot easier on engine break in by keeping it cooler with the extra airflow.

It says to check the tappet clearance after the first hour of run time then how often afterwards?

Thanks,
See ya,
Rod

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Connect the rear crankcase vent line to the pump. The pump has a air inlet filter screen

I don't need on board glow on my twins. They run fine without it.

I just use one pick up and a tee. I haven't seen one carb suck air from the other.

A regular muffler pressure line just like all my other engines.

iflyfisher

w8ye, yeah, sorry. I am using a 16x8. Dyslexic fingers on the keyboard for that first reference!

rchotrod

So I connect the two nipples together? When the manual said to run a length of tubing into the plane, I took that as it was to supply clean air to the vane pump. Which way does the pumped air travel through the engine? I only have two vent nipples, the rear one on the vane pump cover and one up front under the cams.

For an engine of this quality they sure skimped on the manual.

Was just looking through some of the rest of the paper work included with the engine, how long ago did saito make the steam engines? Now I gotta go hunt around and see if I can find something them online.

See ya,
Rod

NotAnAceYet

My Feedback: (9)

Just found this great thread. I have 2 Saito .72's - one I've broken in on a test stand per instructions. Going to put it in a 40 sized high wing trainer - then put it on floats.
#2 is still in the box. Have plans to put it in a Hangar 9 J-3 Cub.
This is my first experience with FS, so I'm glad to find this very informational thread!

Larry

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I don't use that diaphragm pump

The new engines don't have pump

You cannot get any parts for the pump

blw

My Feedback: (3)

rchotrod- the manual is okay. It doesn't cover pumps, but most don't either. Actually, the manual is pretty good if you follow it with break in and running.

NotAnAceYet- good choice in engines. You are member #549

scratchonly

Make sure you don't have the low speed too lean; this can affect the HS adjustment. Your low speed, although you are happy with the idle, it may indicate a lean low end.

colmor

Request to join CS! Purchased a new Saito .62a as my first 4-stroke 2 months ago. Now looking to get a 2nd larger Saito.
Question on crankcase markings- I understand the letters stamped on the case designate the "series" of the engine, but about how often do these change, i.e- monthly, yearly? Would there be much change from a .91s stamped "D" vs the latest stamped "K"? Can not seem to fund much information on this...

One happy "Jack".

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jack, it appears as though the .91 has been replaced by the 1.00, this is good as the 1.00 is a better engine being lighter and more powerful. But back to the letters, most of the time you can't tell any difference when the letter designations change and sometimes they are very apparent.

RCWI

Yea Mon>... I have been reading rpm readings for the saito 1.25 on some forums, and all readings i see are about 1000 rpms more than I am getting. Today I ran 16x8 2 blade=7,770 rpms, 14x9 three blade=7,770, and 15x10 two blade= 7,000. Idle is around 2,000 rpms. The temp was 89deg, and was using Wildcat premium 15% nitro. The eng is farily new, bout a gallon and a half or two gallons through it. low speed and high speed have been leaned out. Engine is pulling a H9 spitfire. Does this seem to be what I should be getting?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The series letters has more to do with how fast the sell. I don't know what their typical production run is but every time they make another run they change the letter.

The "D" Saito 91 will have a shorter nose on the crankshaft. There will be a big boss on the left side of the cylinder just under the fins that the later ones don't have. The carb will have remnants in the casting of the original air bleed design although it is a twin needle carb. Even though, the early runs the same as the latest one and the parts are all interchangeable. There were several variations of the mufflers but the same muffler system will fit any of the 91's.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

RC, the better pprop for the 1.25 is a 15x8, you'll see about 9,200 with it.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I haven't flown my 125 yet but running it on the bench, it is much happier with a APC 15 X 6. I'm sure it will do fine with a 15 X 8 in the air.

My Saito 150 like the 16-8

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I have had a lot of problems with a new plane that my 125 is on, so I don't have many flights on it. I've used only an APC 15x6 on 15% Omega. I've seen around 9400 RPM from what I remember. It is a very powerful engine for this pattern model that is a 60 sized pattern kit. I'll get better numbers on the engine the next time I go flying.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Barry, the 15x6 is what you would run on a 1.00.

boogermancan

i have a 17 x 6 apc on my 125 i get 8200 out of it but it idle's 2000 and dose not seam to be kicking idle very smooth its in a twist 60

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Dave, I trust your advice on this. I'll try the 15x8. So far, the 15x6 has done a great job. But, thinking about it, I could use a little more airspeed. It already has gobs of extra pulling power on verticals. I don't think I've gone much past half throttle on any of the vertical maneuvers.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If you want speed, go with a 14-10

RCWI

So do your guys think that me temp of 85 deg will slow my rpms down 1000 rpms?

boogermancan

were are you temping 85 dec <celsius, fahrenheit> the glow plug? if its 85 degrees C would be on the cool side if it is open mount . enclosed at 85 C would be way to cold or 85 degrees f would be way to cold 85 degree Celsius = 185 degree Fahrenheit 85 degree Fahrenheit = 29 degree Celsius
http://www.onlineconversion.com/temperature.htm
if you motor is running good top and idle and responds to the input changes then leave it were its at last time i temped my it was around 215 degree Fahrenheit at the glow plug <and your question Yes > however if you at the north or south pole and its freezing out side i would have to think about it <IMHO>

colmor

blw- I would like to join the Club Saito. Running a .62 and have a .91 on the way.
Thanks-
Colin