Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

BH, look back through these pages for my break in method, it works every time and in about 40 minutes you'll have a Saito that holds compression like an ABC engine, runs smooth as silk and burns little fuel. If you can't find it I'll re-post it.

BountyHunter51

Thanks Hobbsy, I'll do a search and see what I can find.[8D]

Cheers! BH

1rcaddict

Could you re-post that break-in method, i've got a 180 i'm getting ready to run on a Ultra-Rc Goles 202.
Thanks

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I found some black RTV recently. I needed that color for another project.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

OK

10 minutes at 4,000 rpm with throttle 1/4 to 1/3 open, HS needle about 4 turns open. This is the most important part of the break in.
10 minutes at 5,000
10 minutes at 6,000
10 minutes at 7,000

Peak HS needle at absolute peak and leave there temporarily, start leaning the LS needle 1/8th turn at a time, checking the transition after every other change, at some point it will just quit when you test the transition. Re-richen the LS needle 18 to 1/4 turn. While doing this keep reducing the throttle setting as low as you can get it to idle. A good transition is far more important than the lowest idle speed.

With the 1.80 you may need to re-fuel in the middle of this, you don't with the smaller ones.

In 40 to 50 minutes you will have accomplished what many say takes 100s of gallons. This method was sanctioned by Bill Robison.

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

for a spinner nut, take the insert out of the starter, flip it over. there is a hole in the back side of the insert tht fits well on a spinner nut. i do it all the time at the field to go between spinner nuts and spinners.
jon

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

Black RTV is supposedly the best but i still think the fuel weakens it. I stay away from it. If anything find a product called "The Right Stuff" from permatex.

I used many Gasket making compounds on my slimline , so far The Right Stuff has been the only one to seal up good and not start spitting out the exhaust.

Avoid using anything if you can, specially if it can get inside your engine!

1rcaddict

Thanks for the info, i'll let you know how it goes.

1rcaddict

Hey guys, I've been noticing some bearing noise on my 82. It was my first Saito and I didn't break it in as well as I should of, but its had about five gallons of fuel through it and it's been running fine. The thing is , I removed the rear plate and filled it with MMO to let it soak. It's been soaking for about a day and oil has started to seep out around the prop shaft. Is this normal?

KLF1292

Similar question, how do you tell if either the front or rear bearing set needs to be replaced?

Also, I have a Saito 72. I recently took the backplate off and noticed what appears to be wear from the connecting rod rubbing against the backplate in a pattern of slightly more than a half circle. What would be the likely cause? Bent connecting rod? Worn bearing?

jessiej

I wouldn't worry about it if the engine runs well. Most of my engines regardless of 2 stroke, four stroke, or brand, will seep oil if I put in a good amount and let them sit. I have also noticed that a few drops of oil grows into a quqrt or so when it leaks onto the floor.

jess

boogermancan

the problem comes when one of the balls falls out of the race and tangles up with moving and not moveing part [sm=48_48.gif][sm=48_48.gif]

Ken6PPC

If you can feel any side to side motion of the front of the crankshaft, your bearings are worn. How much wear is acceptable to you is probably personal preference. If I can feel play, I think it is time to replace them. Bearings are cheap to replace, when compared to the damage that can be caused by loose metal particles finding their way into critical areas.

The swirling pattern on the front of the backplate wouldn't concern me. When you push against the spinner to use an electric starter, the crank can brush up against the backplate a little. It might happen when the engine is idling down, and acting like a brake as well. Now, if metal is actually being REMOVED from the backplate, that is a different matter.

It isn't unusual for oil to leak through your front bearing. The seals aren't 100% oil tight.

rdutari

Hi guys, I'm getting ready to break in my first Saito this weekend, a Saito 100. I plan to mount it on my new Phoenix Models Extra 330S 90. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advise. Should I use the stock nylon mount that comes with the ARF, or is there a specific mount I should use for this engine? The ARF comes with a 270 deg inverted mounting possition. Should I stick with the stock mount and possition? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The nylon mounts typically work very well

RPMcK

My Feedback: (1)

Hi, I'm mounting a 180 in a Giant Super Sportster and I think I'm going to need to move the intake manifold a little in order to install an air cleaner. I'm wondering if I should just plan on having to install new gaskets (O rings or what ever) or would it probably not damage them. I know - crystal ball type of question. Just thought maybe someone has had experience with doing this. I'm totally new with these engines. Thanks, Ron

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The seals will accept a few movements before trouble. If they still look good - re use them

Test005

Hello

I just bought my first Saito ever. I have had many OS fourstrokes and Magnum, but never a Saito before. I bought it second hand NIB and plan to put it on a Sig Somethin' Extra airplane.
I have 14X4W prop, is this OK for break-in too?

...Yeah, it's the FA-82a model by the way

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It'll be OK. Just don't let the engine run hot

A black and Gold box. Couldn't be very old. I'm thinking mine came in a white box.

Test005

Acording to the seller: "Bought Christmas 2006 in England"

Anyways, this thing is smoking cool looking!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I was just taking notice of the box color and wondering if Saito had changed back to the old style Black/gold box they had in the 90's.

The engine is beautiful and appears to have all the latest changes. You made a good purchase.

Test005

double post, pls remove

rfan_1

My Feedback: (2)

Apparently so, because the two FA-125A engines I picked up on Ebay were in black and gold boxes and there was a brochure included with the instruction sheets (not small manual) that had all the engines including the FG36 gasser. The tools also included a small screwdriver.

RFan

Test005

I have these props, which one would be prefered for break-in? (Intend to fly the 14x4w)

14x4W APC
13x8 MAS K-series
12x6 APC (Way too small I suppose as this is my prefered prop for .52 fourstrokes)

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The 14-4w has less load than the 13-8