1rcaddict

The prop nut and washer came with the motor NIB. Maybe Saito changed the configuration since you bought your motor, mine is about 6 months old. By undercut do you mean drill out the first few threads to allow the nut to tighten further?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Yes

1rcaddict

Thanks for the help, i'll give it a go.

linkadrip

Isn't it amazing what you can do with pictures

Of course a little more colors an tweaking and it will look awesome l[sm=lol.gif]

RCBOATMANIAC

Nice engines I am still in the works at trying to get me a 170R3 for a Waco YMF-3 1/5 scale.[8D] Dave

mdishinger

My Feedback: (4)

What is the appropriate break in period on a Saito 220

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It might tank 2-4 tanks to get the needle set after the initial runs.

After that people put them in the air. But you should not try to wring the last ounce of power from it.

They get better and better from that point

linkadrip

I just started to break in my Saito 62a and ran a tank through it rich lots of smoke and blow buy out of the crancase nipple. Second tank i ran through it i leaned the high speed needle out till it speeded up. Used a Tach for watching the Rpm. I leaned it out to the point it stopped smoking. but only ran it for a couple more minutes like that then killed it for fear of running it to Lean.

I'm wondering if i should richen it back up to were it is smoking?? Is no smoke out of the exahust to lean? It runs good and transitions fine from high to low idel no problems.

It's a great running engine. I'm just not sure if i should see smoke or not. I turned the high speed needle in just to the point it stopped smoking and the rpms increased to 9500 i
have a 13X5 MAS prop on it.

My .72 GK saito i run rich on my trainer and it smokes i never leaned it out to the point of not smoking but its not putting out it's top rpm eighther.

I'm running my new one on a test stand to break it in thought i would ask this question here before i continued. I want to make sure i'm not going to damage my new engine.

Thanks Link

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Here is my .62 turning a Bolly 12.5x6, how long has it been run now, if more than 40 minutes just set the LS needle and fly it.

Ken6PPC

Link, the only reason to run rich in the first place is because your engines will naturally lean out a little when in the air. The prop unloads, and the engine runs faster while flying than on the ground. Saito engines that smoke a lot in the air are likely too rich! However, smoke is not a reliable indicator of your engine's tune. If you are concerned about harming your engine by a lean run, be sure to use a little castor in your fuel. Castor is the best protection your engine can get, and it doesn't need a lot of it.

You have a tach. Use it to adjust the high speed needle valve to maximum rpm's and leave it there, for now.

Next, lean (screw in, in a clockwise direction) the low speed needle valve a little at a time, checking transition from idle as you go. You may have to turn the low speed needle valve (LSNV) in quite a bit to get it lean enough, and will have to reduce the throttle opening as you go along. That is because you will need less air to idle as you lean the LSNV. Even though you might have to turn the LSNV a couple full turns or perhaps even more than that, you should make no more than 1/4 turn clockwise (or less) at a time, or you will miss the "sweet spot". (Many will adjust the LSNV only 1/8 turn at a time.) It isn't a bad ideal to go back and check the maximum rpm's as you are adjusting the LSNV too.

When you get to the point where you adjust the LSNV slightly, and afterwards, the engine sputters and dies as you transition from idle to full throttle, it is now a tiny bit too lean. Richen (turn counter-clockwise) the LSNV about 1/8 turn.

Check the transition again, and then go back and richen up the HSNV 300 to 500 rpm's from it's highest setting.

I am convinced that more Saito engines are run too rich than are ever run too lean. They tolerate running too rich pretty well, but they never put out the power that they are capable of in that rich condition, and use too much fuel. Many of the "shakers" you hear of are simply too rich!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Ken, I have two .62s and that is the sweet spot for both but when it will idle like that I fly it with the idle at about 2,100.

Ken6PPC

Hobbsy, I wasn't writing that for you.

I KNOW that you know how to tune a Saito! No doubt, much better than I do! [8D]

BTW, I am up to eight Saitos now - three 82's, one 100, one 125, one 150 GK, and two 1.80's - and COUNTING! [sm=wink_smile.gif]

rexracer

Well' I haven't had a chance to run anything on it yet, due to time and weather, but here's what my engine test stand ended up being. I had all the aluminum exept the base plate in my garage, and that was donated, and the Thomson rod and pillow blocks were freebies, so it basically cost me time. I have limited use of a milling machine and lathe and did the major stuff on that, and did the rest in my garage. The tank and throttle stand is fully adjustable, and I made a block on the linkage so the 2-56 throttle is also adjustable. Can't wait to try it out.

Ken6PPC

rex, that is B E A U T I F U L !!!!

linkadrip

Yes that there is one mighty Fancy Engine test stand[sm=thumbup.gif] Would be ashame to post pics of my red neck engine test stand.[sm=bananahead.gif]

Ken thanks for the information i'm not as worried now i was thinking you must have smoke coming out of the exahust or it was running to lean. i need to do the same with my .72 Saito and tune it for peak rpm. Cause i noticed my last flight with it was pretty sluggish and was smoking Quite a bit and did burn up alot of fuel really quickly.

Appriciate the Help Thank you.[sm=teeth_smile.gif]

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

I have two 45's that need new throttle levers. The are the thin metal type that is captured by a nut. I can't find these at Horizon. Anyone have a suggestion for replacements?
Thanks, MikeB

boogermancan

i put a 16x 10apc on my 125 on 30% helly fule and this was in my twist 60 mostly do to they were out of 17 x6 @lhs that i broke on a chickostick the old 17x6 would move out good and out of a turn wow but the 16 X10 made the wings sing in the air its to bad a dum thumb it into the ground splat at wot we have confettey on the ground

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Sorry Ken, I wasn't implying anything except that even if some engines will idle at 1,600 or 1,800 I don't fly with them set that low.

Capt Lou

Link:

Smoke is good! It means your engine is getting good lubrication, especially if it is new and you want to prolong its life. I would keep it rich for at least one/two gallons of fuel used during flight time. However, after that you want to lean it enough that it still smokes a little but is not to lean, otherwise you're just wasting fuel. Also, the low speed side of the carb needs to be adjusted after a good break in because the factory setting is very rich and, after break in, the low speed setting will continue to smoke and burn unnecessary fuel. I just put a Saito 91S on a Sig Four Star 60 and had to turn-in the low speed adjustment about two complete turns before it was set right. Read the owner's manual about the low speed adjustment and follow its instructions as this adjustment is very easy to do but it takes patience. After it is set, you'll love its performance.

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

Hobbsy,
Can the low speed be set that low then idle bumped back up with the transmitter end points or do you set the low speed needle to the rpm you are looking for?

I can get mine down to 1800 on the 180 with a 18x6 xoar But still unreliable in the air.

I also found fresh fuel helps the idle dropped my idle rpm by 1200 rpm's DOH!

Will get some 25% when I can source it ,Thinking it really needs it for the prop size.

linkadrip

Capt:

Yea i set it back to rich. So it is smoking a little. Rpms are not as high as they were, but i thought it would be good to do for a couple more tanks. before i Increase the rpms back up, just to be on the safe side even my other saito engine is fairly new and has had only maybe half a gallon of fuel run through it.

Thanks Link

RPMcK

My Feedback: (1)

Has anyone with experience with Blu Line air filters ever installed one on a 180? I bought one based on the good reports i've read about them - BUT - don't look to me like it will ever stretch over the velocity stack. And I can't see that there is more than one size available.

Thanks, Ron

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

Ron,

Yeah you can get it over it , I forgot how I got mine on . It was very tuff to do though, If I remember correctly I had to turn it inside out then pull it back out after the small end is on. Was easier to do with the engine off the plane,the disc filter was tricky also. Once its on its on ,I could not get mine back off without splitting it.

Mike,

RPMcK

My Feedback: (1)

Mike.

You're right, it did work. Kinda' like strethin' a crankshaft seal over a prop flang but it can be done. I had the whole intake manifold off so I could install my new Turbo Muffler so that made it a little easier. But I believe you about having to cut it to get it off. It is tight.

Thanks, Ron

swixtt

well i just got my used Saito 150 and wondered about the prop threads. i bought a Dubro prop nut #735 8mmx1.25 and the threads seem to be badly made. i also tried it on a Saito 100 and same thing. just goes on about a turn and i don't want to force it anymore. the older Saito 150 is 8mmx1.25 isn't it? i'm thinking that i received a defective prop nut, badly cut threads.??