William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Otter:

That last post is two excerpts from a work in progress - a new book I'm slowly writing on Saito engines. Hope it is clear to you.

Bearings? do not consider anything but ceramic for the rear, and if possible use a ceramic bearing in front also. Go on line to http://www.rc-bearings.com/ and order them from Paul. He's good people with super prices - his price for a ceramic bearing set is about what Boca gets for stainless bearings.
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Quint:

I don't know of anyone in TX or AZ doing Saitos. Would you accept a fellow in Mary Esther Florida?

Haw.

Bill.

intercedeT4

Saito 100 owners,

I need a little help. Recently picked up a Saito 100 for my H9 Funtana 90. I was having troubles getting a throttle linkage to smoothly link up to it, and gave up on it for a couple days. My father, thinking he was doing me a favor, attempted to remove the arm from the carb and reposition it to see if the throttle would move a little better. I think you can see where this is going...

He *almost* completely unscrewed the low speed needle out of the arm before he realized it wasn't the right thing (it was on my older O.S. engines..I don't blame him one bit and thanked him for the effort). He screwed it into the position that he thought it was before he touched it. I fired it up the other day, and it spewed raw fuel on idle and just generally ran poorly. I ran it for about 5 minutes and it managed to eat through darn near the entire tank of fuel. The motor was also luke warm to the touch immediatly after shutdown. I don't think it was what Saito had in mind for a rich break it

In perfect fashion, the manual just says "Don't touch it, stupid". I have no idea where it used to be, and I don't think breaking the engine in, in that state of tune, is a very good idea.

Does anyone have any idea how far I should back it out from full close for getting it safer for break in? I don't care if it's not perfect. I just want to get it in a range where it's ok to run it, and I'm not coating my driveway in Caster oil

Thanks guys!
Jon

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Jon:

Turn the LS screw (not really a needle) in until the flat end is just about 1/16" below the flat side of the throttle lever. See picture.

Bill.

PS: The arrow points to the set screw that holds the lever. wr.

intercedeT4

Thank you sir! I appreciate it!!

Jon

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

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Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

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Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

New members:

138 old-pilot
139 bob36
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Welcome, folks.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

mtnmnstr:

I've never done much with the small block engines so I can't say for certain, but I'd guess the later Mk II FA-45 has the hotter cam grind.
-----------------
JuzPlaneKrazy1:

The flex pipes are available from Horizon both with and without a pressure tap. They work fine, but if you don't support the end they will vibrate, crystallize in the heat, and fall off when they break. Check the parts listing for the FA-300T or the FA-300TTDP, you will find both types there and the support bracket as well.

Bill.

IronCross

#19 here
Mr R
Have you ever tried making a flex pipe out of flexable electical conduit ?.. Saw some in the hardware store the other day and some looked like it could be clamped on the exaust manifold... Was wondering if it would stay together though..

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Flexible gas pipe from Loew's is brass and works nice. Is available in a size that fits the Saito 91 nicely.

You braze it to the steel manifold

Enjoy,

Jim

IronCross

Is brass better then aluminum ?... Isn't it heavier ?... I don't have brazing equipment so I was thinking of just splitting the end and putting a small hose clamp on it ?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The gas pipe is thin and flexible. I saw it on a Saito 91 and a Zenoa G38 last week at the flying field. They had brazed theirs but the thin brass readily accepts solder.

This stuff looks a little like the electrical Armaflex you were talking about but there are no seams in it.

Enjoy,

Jim

otterrc

My Feedback: (36)

Bill,

Thank you so much for your detailed instructions. I have a friend that restores cars, I believe he has the puller I need.

Again thanks,

Dave Small, otterrc, AMA 683563
Tricounty RC Club Dunnellon, FL
www.tricountyrcclub.homestead.com

otterrc

My Feedback: (36)

Hi Quint,

I have had repairs done by a fellow in FL. Here is his address: SECO Enterprises 301 Sabal Ridge Circle Suite A Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33418 561-625-9671 email [email protected] He has always been prompt, and reasonable. I just decided to try this one myself


Dave S. otterrc

otterrc

My Feedback: (36)

Gee Bill I should have read a bit ahead before my reply to Quint.
You repair engines? What Kind?

Would you like me to give your address to our club members?
We do the website and newsletter for our club.

Dave S. otterrc

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Otter:

What kind of engines? For a 100 hour check on your C-65 bring $400, for a major on your 985 bring $50K.

I do not advertise, model engine work is done in time that is otherwise free, and I charge only for parts and postage on them. I consider this a service to modelling, and since it has to fit into my regular work there are sometimes delays. I will not guarantee a turn-around time.

Main lines are Saito and K&B, but I do some others as well. Lately most of what I'm doing is straightening cranks.

Seems I remember that fellow in Palm Beach doing any Saito for $18 plus parts/postage, but I'm not sure. If you're in a hurry he's the far better choice.

Bill.

iflynething

No matter what I try to do, I can't get out the crankshaft. No matter what. I have tried pounding it, and I read you thing about getting that out Bill, but can't seem to do it. I'm thinking about getting the ceramic bearring, but I still need to get out the shaft before I can do this.

Thanks for the help

~Michael~

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Michael:

The crank WILL NOT come out until the prop driver is removed. It has a centering cone with what is called a "Locking" taper, the only practical way to get it off is with a strong puller. Many auto supply stores have "Loaner" tools for the DIY types, take your engine to one and they will probably yank it for you.

I have a really good Snap-On puller that does it for me, but there are other less espensive ones if you want to get your own.

Pictures shows the S-O puller in use, second shows it in the catalogue and another from Sears.

Hope this helps.

Bill.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

If you're on a budget, this set will do the job too:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=32184

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

$50K?? Holy cow, prices have gone up!

I worked at Aero Engines Inc from '80-'82. I built many 985's; 1340's; and a few Jakes. A full major on a 985 was $10K back then. Unless it needed a new cam drum; crank; or master rod. But even then I think the max was $15K.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Tom:

I was a partner in a Howard DGA 14 restoration about 20 years ago, the engine alone cost us $30K.

Bill.

jlkonn

My Feedback: (1)

Bill,
The Cub in my Avitar (is that the right word) is N3403K. It is a 1946 J-3 on loan to the EAA Museum in Oshkosh.
It's mine!
I'm afraid it has been upgraded to a C-85.
I'm very proud of it!
Maybe some folks here have seen it if they have ever visited the EAA.
JLK

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

John:

On loan? I guess you're too cheap to pay hanger rent. Haw.

With the C-85 should it not be called a J-4? Most people don't even know there's a difference. Further, most haven't even heard of a J-4.

Bill.

solafein

Would I cause myself any problems by shortening the exhaust manifold, like cutting it in half, on my FA91? I am installing it into my Funtana 40 and I don't want to butcher the bottom of my pretty cowl to get the exhaust to work.

Thanks

Ernie Misner

Maybe Michael did have the thrust washer off, but did not heat the case to get the crank out?

Ernie