Welcome to Club SAITO !
06-04-2008, 01:52 PM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
proptop, it could well be that my first weld would heat the parent aluminum enough so that the subsequent weld would not crack. The hot case would then allow the second weld to cool slower. I wish I knew more about aluminum welding ( without actually studying hard and practicing a bunch to get good at it 
).
).
06-04-2008, 02:00 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: rexracer
According to the website. the HTS-2000 rods flow at about 735 degrees, and aluminum melts at 1200+. I watched the videos and I'm tempted to spend the $65 whether I repair this or not. I do a lot of stuff with aluminum, and it looks like this stuff would come in handy.
According to the website. the HTS-2000 rods flow at about 735 degrees, and aluminum melts at 1200+. I watched the videos and I'm tempted to spend the $65 whether I repair this or not. I do a lot of stuff with aluminum, and it looks like this stuff would come in handy.
-
As you probably think, and I agree, the experience gained will be worth the $65 cost alone.
Ed Cregger
06-04-2008, 02:16 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
My thoughts exactly. If it works as well as they say, and is as strong as it looks in the video, I'm sure it will get used. A question to any who might know. What would be the hottest temp that a glow engine would get in the exhaust port area. Obviously not 1200+ or the aluminum would melt. The hottest I've seen (on a hot .12 car engine) was about 350f. but I have no idea what the inside of the exhaust port, or header pipe can get to.
06-04-2008, 03:41 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Ive seen 390* running on the lean side doing static run ups. No sizzle as of yet Im sure its much hotter at that point.
A steady well running, in tune engine Ive been seeing 290-300 on the ground .
These are just external infared temps.
Im sure its much hotter at that point.A steady well running, in tune engine Ive been seeing 290-300 on the ground .
These are just external infared temps.
06-04-2008, 03:41 PM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: proptop
I think if you could find a way to keep it from cooling down too quickly, the chances of cracking would be lessened...
My dad was a welding engineer, and told me that Alum. (generally ) needs to be pre-heated, and the cool down after welding needs to be controlled.
If we were talking about a model engine case (or other parts ) for example, perhaps putting the case or parts in an oven before and after welding/alumabrazing, etc. would be a good idea?
ORIGINAL: TimC
Jim, let me add my limited experience with welding cast aluminum. I would vee out the crack and make what looked like a good weld. As the weld cooled it would crack. My solution was to make the vee a larger angle than normal and weld. After it cracked, I would re-vee at a normal angle leaving weld metal to weld on. This time the weld wouldn't crack. I've welded aluminum engine cases but nothing as small as our airplane engines. I think this would pose a challange with a heli-arc rig. I also am hoping one of our members with experience with cast aluminum welding will post.
ORIGINAL: w8ye
The casting material used in the die castings of model engines has a high zinc content so the aluminum will fill out all the little intricate details of the casting design.
Aluminum castings with a high zinc content do not lend themselves to being the most weldable of metals. What the welder experiences is, that to get the metal hot enough to get any penetration, you will be within a hair breath of the whole thing melting into a puddle or at least a hole melting in it. The solution to this problem is to use a low melting point "solder type weld metal" which, as a result, does not have the strength of the original metal.
Most of our model engines are die castings. Some of the low production and one-off racing engines may have sand cast crankcases. These would typically be of a more weldable (356 prime) alloy with only 2.5% zinc and be much stronger with 2.5% copper.
I'm sure this will spark up some counter points from some metallurgical weld engineer and the discussion is welcome.
The casting material used in the die castings of model engines has a high zinc content so the aluminum will fill out all the little intricate details of the casting design.
Aluminum castings with a high zinc content do not lend themselves to being the most weldable of metals. What the welder experiences is, that to get the metal hot enough to get any penetration, you will be within a hair breath of the whole thing melting into a puddle or at least a hole melting in it. The solution to this problem is to use a low melting point "solder type weld metal" which, as a result, does not have the strength of the original metal.
Most of our model engines are die castings. Some of the low production and one-off racing engines may have sand cast crankcases. These would typically be of a more weldable (356 prime) alloy with only 2.5% zinc and be much stronger with 2.5% copper.
I'm sure this will spark up some counter points from some metallurgical weld engineer and the discussion is welcome.
I think if you could find a way to keep it from cooling down too quickly, the chances of cracking would be lessened...
My dad was a welding engineer, and told me that Alum. (generally ) needs to be pre-heated, and the cool down after welding needs to be controlled.
If we were talking about a model engine case (or other parts ) for example, perhaps putting the case or parts in an oven before and after welding/alumabrazing, etc. would be a good idea?
Andy
06-04-2008, 04:43 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I have a friend that owns a Saito 180 that has the muffler loosening problem and with all the tips found here it doesn't get better. My question is, is has anyone tried the Performance Specialties muffler on this engine? I have them on my ys engines and have never had a problem. Please let me know if you have had success with this muffler.
Thanks
Jeff
Thanks
Jeff
06-04-2008, 04:56 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Yeah they work great on the 180 http://www.vimeo.com/1038668 I have some video in flight also if your interested.
BTW Im peaking it out at 9200 now! [sm=thumbup.gif]
BTW Im peaking it out at 9200 now! [sm=thumbup.gif]
06-04-2008, 05:38 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Jeff, maybe we need to clarify, are you asking about Performance Specialties mufflers or RC Specialties TurboHeader, if the TurboHeader I can vouch for it enhancing performance on all Saitos except the 1.25 and for it staying in place. The 1.25 has two peculiarities, the TurboHeader does not give it a boost in RPM and a velocity stack knocks off 200 rpm.
06-04-2008, 05:47 PM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Starter question ???
My Sullivan starter does not like my 1.25 , my fingers don't trust my 1.25 , what starters fire up these engines with out to much trouble ??
I can get it to work , but its hit or miss , mostly miss.
Andy
My Sullivan starter does not like my 1.25 , my fingers don't trust my 1.25 , what starters fire up these engines with out to much trouble ??
I can get it to work , but its hit or miss , mostly miss.
Andy
06-04-2008, 08:52 PM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hey hey hey , who said I had a bad battery ?? [X(] Well ... I'll try another battery just to make sure. I just have one of those 7ah gel cells , but I do have an extra car batty I can hook up to and give it a go. If it works out lawn and garden batteries are not that expensive.
Andy
Andy
06-04-2008, 09:11 PM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Andy,
We are just throwing out suggestions. Dave is correct, your starter should turn over the 1.25 with a good battery. When my battery gets low, I have trouble too. If you still have the same problem with a strong battery then look to the starter.
Jim
We are just throwing out suggestions. Dave is correct, your starter should turn over the 1.25 with a good battery. When my battery gets low, I have trouble too. If you still have the same problem with a strong battery then look to the starter.
Jim
06-04-2008, 09:15 PM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Jim,
I know , I'm just messing with you guys, and I do appriciate the help! I'll try it with a bigger battery , the one I have is pretty new , but not as many amps as my lawn tractor. It threw me off a little when I could not get the 1.25 to crank, a little on the scary side.
Andy
I know , I'm just messing with you guys, and I do appriciate the help! I'll try it with a bigger battery , the one I have is pretty new , but not as many amps as my lawn tractor. It threw me off a little when I could not get the 1.25 to crank, a little on the scary side.
Andy
06-04-2008, 09:21 PM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I have several Sullivan Dynatron starters and they have no problem with my 125. But the last time I ran the 125, I used the bigger Tower starter and as usual a garden tractor battery. But I did try the 125 with a small Tower starter and a Gel Cell and no dice.
06-04-2008, 09:51 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I start my Saito 1.25 regularly with a Magnum geared drive starter, and a "normal" 12V, 7Ah gel cel, like most people use in their flight boxes. It has no problem at all turning the 1.25.
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/237960.asp
I also have a Sullivan Dynatron with a 12V garden tractor battery, and it will turn over anything that I am likely to need it for!
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/237960.asp
I also have a Sullivan Dynatron with a 12V garden tractor battery, and it will turn over anything that I am likely to need it for!
06-05-2008, 04:17 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Guys -please pay attention.
I have received notice of messages from the following members- Hobbsy, Rexracer, Bigbuster, BLW, Ed Cre4ggar, Ken6ppc, Michael H., Model Mike, AJsToys, TimC, W8ye. I just cannot find your messages. I found two messages so far and will answer each as soon as I finish this. I haven't a clue as to what's not happening and as a graduate Cum Laude of the Sandstone Subnormal I guess this is to be expected but I certainly want you to know that I appreciate your replies and as soon as I find what it is I'm messing up I will discontinue that practice immediately.
Thanks again and please be patient.
Vince
I have received notice of messages from the following members- Hobbsy, Rexracer, Bigbuster, BLW, Ed Cre4ggar, Ken6ppc, Michael H., Model Mike, AJsToys, TimC, W8ye. I just cannot find your messages. I found two messages so far and will answer each as soon as I finish this. I haven't a clue as to what's not happening and as a graduate Cum Laude of the Sandstone Subnormal I guess this is to be expected but I certainly want you to know that I appreciate your replies and as soon as I find what it is I'm messing up I will discontinue that practice immediately.
Thanks again and please be patient.
Vince
06-05-2008, 04:21 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hobbsy,
I can use anything at all on this engine. BTW what is the suggested fuel and prop for this engine?
Thanks,
Vaince
I can use anything at all on this engine. BTW what is the suggested fuel and prop for this engine?
Thanks,
Vaince
06-05-2008, 04:26 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Rexracer,
As I replied to Hobbsy anything that tells me anything about a four stroker would help. I'm really not up on much. The world is going to electric and I'm just getting into 4 strokers.
I'll bet You guys thought I was kidding about My Alma Mater and my accomplishments there!
Vince
As I replied to Hobbsy anything that tells me anything about a four stroker would help. I'm really not up on much. The world is going to electric and I'm just getting into 4 strokers.
I'll bet You guys thought I was kidding about My Alma Mater and my accomplishments there!
Vince
06-05-2008, 05:20 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Here's what I can tell you. First, if you "subscribed" to this thread, you will get an e-mail every time somebody posts. Since this thread is so active, I don't subscribe. I actually have this saved in my favorites, and use it as a gateway to RCU. I update my favorites so that the page I'm on doesnt get too far behind where the thread is.
Back to the .45 MKII. If I remember right, the starting point for the HS needle is 2 1/2 turns out and the LS is 1 1/2 turns out.That would be a break in/rich setting. I will double check that and get back to you. Props are 10x6, 11x5, 11x6, 12x4, 12x5. Others may work, but that's a start. I use Wildcat 15% nitro, 18% synth/castor blend. Castor keeps your engine, and especially your cam and lifters, safe. These engines are happy with as little as 5% nitro, though I've never tried that low, to 30% nitro. I try to keep the valves right around .002-.0025" and never let them get looser than .004"
Back to the .45 MKII. If I remember right, the starting point for the HS needle is 2 1/2 turns out and the LS is 1 1/2 turns out.That would be a break in/rich setting. I will double check that and get back to you. Props are 10x6, 11x5, 11x6, 12x4, 12x5. Others may work, but that's a start. I use Wildcat 15% nitro, 18% synth/castor blend. Castor keeps your engine, and especially your cam and lifters, safe. These engines are happy with as little as 5% nitro, though I've never tried that low, to 30% nitro. I try to keep the valves right around .002-.0025" and never let them get looser than .004"
06-05-2008, 06:58 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: w8ye
I have several Sullivan Dynatron starters and they have no problem with my 125. But the last time I ran the 125, I used the bigger Tower starter and as usual a garden tractor battery. But I did try the 125 with a small Tower starter and a Gel Cell and no dice.
I have several Sullivan Dynatron starters and they have no problem with my 125. But the last time I ran the 125, I used the bigger Tower starter and as usual a garden tractor battery. But I did try the 125 with a small Tower starter and a Gel Cell and no dice.
-
I can start fairly largish (1.20 four-stroke - 1.40 two-stroke) glow engines using a fresh 7 AH battery fastened to the bottom of my standard Sullivan starter with 4" leads, but always with a fresh charge. The reduced run of wiring really gives this combo a lot more muscle than when using the same size battery with the full size stock power leads of the standard Sullivan starter. But why play around? Just get the battery that Hobbsy recommended and you'll be able to spin gas engines up to at least 35cc with that combo. Mine does.
Ed Cregger
06-05-2008, 11:45 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: AJsToyz
Starter question ???
My Sullivan starter does not like my 1.25 , my fingers don't trust my 1.25 , what starters fire up these engines with out to much trouble ??
I can get it to work , but its hit or miss , mostly miss.
Andy
Starter question ???
My Sullivan starter does not like my 1.25 , my fingers don't trust my 1.25 , what starters fire up these engines with out to much trouble ??
I can get it to work , but its hit or miss , mostly miss.
Andy