NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Sorry about the food talk, Pete.

All I can do is talk about food these days. I'm pretty restricted on food intake too, so talking is about all I can do. 8>)


Ed Cregger

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

That's my problem too. I talk it and watch the cooking shows but I cannot eat anything salty

Rudolph Hart

Mike109 i laughed and laughed about the taipan powered whipper snipper,taipans were great.

Rudolph Hart

Gidday mate.An 11 plus half horsepower glow engine i can't find at the mo.What about pretending to be "economical" to the handbrake and gearing two 450 triples together on a home made frame?? be a hell of buzz don't ya reckon?

mike109

G'day OF. The bloke that built the Taipan powered whipper snipper must have been a frustrated modeler who just needed the challenge of starting a model engine. I fired up my Magnum46 diesel today and actually flew it in its Stick. Also gave my Kadet Senior and its Saito 56 an airing too. We went out very early and by about 9.30 it was getting pretty warm so I retired to the shed for some repairs to a friends plane with visits inside to the air-conditioning when things were getting just too hot in the shed. How the weather in Perth? Pretty hot too? We are hoping that Sunday will not be too bad but we will probably go out early to try to beat the heat.

On a more Saito related subject - I have just bought an FA-72. Now I need something to put it in. Would like something with a high wing like a Citabria or similar. I already have a couple of Cubs (one H9 1/4 scale - Saito 120S, and one older Goldberg Anniversary with a very light ASP 61) both of which have more power than they need by a long shot. Any suggestions? A Kit or ARF - either would do. It will probably spend some time in one of my Kadets to get it running right.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Mike, I insulated and dry walled my shop and equipped it with air and heat, wouldn't want me or my Harley to get too warm or too cold.

My first .72 spent its early and rather brief lfe on a Bruce Tharpe Venture 60, what a perfect combination until the right aileron servo decided to do its own thing. I sent the .72s broken body to Bill Robison.

pilotpete2

I hate those unexpected expiration dates that all models seem to have[&o]
I met Bruce Tharpe at the WRAM show the year he introduced the Venture 60, beautiful airframe. My first low wing plane was the 4*40, back when it was first introduced. He's a very nice person and a great designer.

Now to All for a Saito related question.
My old FA 65 is laid up due to what appeared to be a bent crank, but upon closer inspection, it seems the crank is actually bowed between the bearing journals.
This really surprised me as the crash resulted in zero damage to the 4*60, the safety spinner nut hit the soft grass at idle. The composite motor mount beams snapped off just behind the engine, even the bleeping prop was OK. Should I let one of my FB's attempt to straighten the crank, or just go for a new one. Anyone ever seen a Saito crank bow? My FB claims the crank is very small in diameter between the journals. Any thought from the Club Saito membership?
Cheers,
Pete

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I carefully roll them on the table and can usually tell without having to get out the dial indicator

If it is bent between the bearings it will not want to spin in the crankcase because the bearings will bind

blw

My Feedback: (3)

The .72 is a nice little engine. They have a great sound when wide open.

charlie1960

Got a question, does the velocity stack on a FA100 really help?

.60 P-51D totin' the FA100

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

They seem to help on fuel economy and mess in your engine compartment but they do nothing for power

mike109

G'day Mr H. I think about you every time I play with my Saitos. I am not quite in your league, but getting there. I have 11 from 30 to 120 (although one 120 was given to me and really needs a new barrel) as well as 4 OS four strokes, 2 ASP four strokes and one elderly Enya 46. My shed is quite large and when it was built I did have it insulated but it is not lined like yours. I do have an old air-conditioner to fit but other priorities have kept it sitting on a trolley. I really need to build some shelving first and sort out the storage. Where we are, the climate is hot in summer and cool in winter so we can fly all year round but in January and February it can be pretty warm. You just have to fly early or late and as we have daylight saving time, this can be until about 8.00 pm at this time.

I also think about you on your bike when I am riding mine. Mine is a small scooter with all of 50cc. I told my wife that your generous wife had given the Sportster to you but sadly she was unimpressed and is yet to reciprocate the gesture for me. I really should be thankful though as she has had to put up with my hobbies for 36 years now and does so with remarkably little grief.

My original FA-72 was bought to put into a quarter scale Corby Starlet - a pretty little Australian designed mid wing racing plane of the 1960s. Sadly, the 72 and its muffler would not fit inside the rather large cowl and I ended up using an ASP 70 instead which fitted easily. I did not know about flexible mufflers and the Turbo headers at that time. As a result, the 72 did its first flight in a Kadet Senior which it really hauled around. I later sold it to a newbie who wanted me to put a model together from him and he is still flying it. He cannot believe how economical it is in the 60 size trainer he has. He has two of them and the second one has a Thunder Tiger 60 two stroke which flies the plane like a bat out of hell but with a great thirst to match.

All the best - stay warm.

Greg R.

62 in stick plus, 82 in a seagull .40 decathlon, 82 in a h9 ultra stick, 100gk in a seagull .75 extra 300, soon a 1.80 will arrive for a H9 twist 1.50, but I need to know who has a FG 36 and what there pullin with it. I have an RC Guys Super Decathlon it will be around 15-18 pounds. I don't want to fall sort as i like a little over powered plane. Anyone have experiance with this motor???????????????

Thanks
Greg R,

Rudolph Hart

Dave you half baked bikie as we say down here.Can you get up on a freezing morning and kickstart it first try? while listening to the carb suck midstoke as you boot her over after a quick carb tickle? and have you tried an old bsa or trumpy single..ever had a carb fire when she backfires or those brilliant pommy electrics fry your bum??

Rudolph Hart

Hi greg and at least you and me know how good the 82 is in a 46 decaff,hope there are many others

No fg36 experience i opted for the fa220 in a 68" dolphin models extra330,want to have a go yourself??

navy47

My Feedback: (59)

I have a saito 50 two 65s one 80 one91 and A 100 and love them all. Can anybody tell how to change the bearings in A FA65 ?
Is there any books on it? What tools are needed? And how to pull the part back of the prop? Is it a taper fit? Is there a puller made for removeing it.
Thanks Tom

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The part back of the prop is a taper fit. It generally takes a good bearing puller arrangement to get it off.

You need a bearing separator clamp to hold the hub and a bearing puller to pull it off.
You can buy them as a kit from www.harborfreight.com



If you already have a pretty good puller you can get a bearing separator clamp from Harbor Freight for $9.95
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=7343
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=32184

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Goes on something like this...or use the bearing seperator (W8ye's top pic above) for a firmer grip in the drive plate's groove.

for a detailed saito overhaul see this site (click on engines and stuff in the left column...scroll down to bottom of page under "reviews,conversions. overhauls and upgrades" choose "Anatomy of a sick Saito" (top center column).
Good general teardown and rebuild step-by-step with pics there. several other teardowns and tip/ideas/ reviews there also....browse the whole site.

[link]http://tech.flygsw.org/[/link]

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Yes, tried both of them.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Here's a quicker link to the page that Frets was referring to http://tech.flygsw.org/sick_saito.htm
Some of the info in this article is grandiose and wishful thinking. It would be best to forget the unnecessary modification and so called balancing of the piston. His identification of the front and rear of the piston/rod is waaaaaay off base. There's no front and rear to the piston except the way it happened to be running. The dot on the rod can be on either side and means nothing as far as we are concerned. The front rear of the rod is identified by the chamfer in the bearing. The chamfered end of the bearing goes towards the crankshaft.

I've shown the offending picture at the bottom. Forget all this dot business and the differences in the bosses on the piston are manufacturing tolerances and may be either way. But you can see the chamfer in the big end rod bearing and also notice in the following pictures that the guy reassembled the engine with the rod installed backwards.

This has been posted on this site for several years and has never been corrected.

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

w8ye, just to clear things up for me:

You stated that "The front rear of the rod is identified by the chamfer in the bearing." I assume you mean the chamfer in the big rod end bearing surface. Is that correct? I do not see a bearing in the picture.

Bob

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The Saito 100 rod in the picture uses the Aluminum of the rod as the bearing. It's the hole in the big end of the rod. You were looking at the bearing and didn't know it.

What is the world coming to with all this new technology?

Look at your rod big end bearing and one side should have a chamfer and the other more straight. The side of the rod that goes to the rear usually has some funny looking swirl marks on the outside of the rod at the bearing where it rubbed against the back plate

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Good catch on the rod orientation W8ye.

My usual method is to put an X on the side of the rod facing me when the rear cover is removed and "X" the piston boss on the same side before pulling the rod out of the piston.

NOTE: this is great on a motor that you know has never been disassembled ie.) one that you bought new...if you suspect the motor has been previously torn down then it's best to check that it was correctly reassembled before marking anything.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Good advice Frets.

I just about have to assume that someone may have messed with the engine unless I got it from Horizon. I've bought so called new engines from people and discover they had been partially disassembled.

It is best to mark them as you found them anyway

BTW I didn't find that error in the web site. The Late Will Robison found it about 5 years ago. I just happened to remember it. The original thread entry was about the dot on the rod and which way it went and everyone had a different answer and someone referenced the site we are talking about. Apparently the dot on the rod has more to do with the casting and nothing to do with machining?

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

So what you are saying is that there is no bearing OR bushing installed by the manufacturer.

Do you know if the rod is hardened by Saito?

Bob