Glow Engines Discuss RC glow engines

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Old 01-26-2011, 09:20 AM
  #19451
Jimmy Hoffa
 
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: w8ye

On the Saito 82, the intake tube is designed much better where it enters the head. Also, the 82 had the redesigned plastic back plate with the extra braces on it from the beginning.

As a result, the 82's are not known to have trouble with vacuum leaks at the intake/head junction.
I have two .82's that have had intake leaks prior to changing the back plate to aluminum. I even tried high temp silicone on the O-ring and still got vacume leaks. For $9.95 I think changing the plate is a good idea. I ordered mine from my LHS so I didn't have to pay shipping.

I've never owned a .72 but have heard they vibrate much less than the .82.
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:29 AM
  #19452
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earlwb- okay, you are # 722
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:30 AM
  #19453
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Maybe I'm behind the times and this has been mentioned, but what's with the $16 price on Saito glow plugs???
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:10 AM
  #19454
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Yes, How about me too. Been suscribed here for at least 6 months & have drawn upon members regularly who have been very unselfish with their knoeledge & responses. I would like to be considered. Do have a 50, 56, 60T, 72, 82, 2-91's, 115, 150. Also a FG20, 36, 45T(whoops, guess that's actually a 270T w\rcxel EI - plans are to attempt to run on gas)

Many Thanx
Mike Brennan
Saito club#???
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:30 AM
  #19455
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BLW, thanks,
yeah you are behind the times, A Saito Glow plug is now $18.49 at this time at Horizon Hobbies website: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=SAIP400S
I guess the value of the Yen really surged upwards against the US dollar value.
My engines still run good with Fox glow plugs though, so i see little reason to get a Saito brand glow plug other than what might come with the engine when I buy one new. Although at this price I can see them stop including a glow plug with the engines.
the Fox Miracle plugs work really well in my four stroke engines.

FYI: I just saw where they lowered the price down to $9.99 now. I guess someone there read our posts. Still kinda steep to me though.


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Old 01-26-2011, 11:53 AM
  #19456
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It's a fact, our dollar is headed the way of the mexican peso [:@]
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:59 AM
  #19457
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$18.49! That's outrageous. Good thing they last a long time. I think I'll try Fox the next time I purchase a plug.
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:32 PM
  #19458
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I was looking around and the prices of all other brands of plugs are stable at this time with the usual prices.

I think Horizon needs to stock up on a few thousand of the Saito plugs at this price for they are sure to sell like hot cakes?

I did find the Thunder Tiger four stroke plug to be $11.99

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAPFY&P=7

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Old 01-26-2011, 12:54 PM
  #19459
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We pay $9.50 for osf plugs here.
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:43 PM
  #19460
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I can't speak about the Saito plug, but stay away from Thunder tiger plugs for your Saitos. OS "F" plugs are the way to go, IMO. I also have run the Fox plugs and was surprised by how well the ran for the price. But I never had a Thunder plug last more than half a season. And it never held a tune that well. I am running a Saito 2.20 so perhaps that is the reason the Thunder plugs do not last.
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Old 01-26-2011, 06:15 PM
  #19461
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I'm glad I bought a batch of the SS plugs as I like them a bit better than the F, well until I saw the price a few days ago I liked them better.
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Old 01-26-2011, 06:16 PM
  #19462
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Triumphman49- you are #723
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Old 01-26-2011, 06:51 PM
  #19463
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Many Thanx!!!!

T-man49 in Alabama
Mike Brennan
#723
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Old 01-26-2011, 08:50 PM
  #19464
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I've been using a batch of Hangar 9 Super Plugs that were given to me a few years back by a guy who was ceasing his RC flying due to age issues. Granted I didn't get as much flying in this past summer as the previous two, but they are still going strong and reliably in my Saito and OS engines for three seasons. Probably 2 1/2 -3 gallons on each plug per season. Currently $7.99 at Horizon's web site and $6.75 on the rack at our LHS.
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Old 01-29-2011, 02:34 PM
  #19465
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UPDATE & help

Well I received my new carb and along with the new backplate,etc It should be a good fix. After assembling the 72 with its new carb and o-rings in the head; new alum backplate and gasket.. transferred my volocity stack - - she is ready to go.

On the test bench; fires right up. I follow the standard tuning method; 3 turns rich for HS and the factory LS on the new carb is nearly flush. Now since I live at 5800 ft MSL; I know it will be too rich. New 15% Omega and new OS type F plug (from previous troubleshooting).
After warm up; I leave the glow driver on. Run it wide open; using tach. peaks at 10,000 RPM with a 12x8 prop. I slowly rich to around 96-9700. She runs fairly steady.
Ok... slow down to 5k rpm. Runs ok, a little 'thumpy' but I figure she is a little rich from LS.. no issues. SLow to idle around 3k. I slowly lean the LS in waiting 10-20 secs to see result. Several turns and she smooths out (otherwise it dies after a few seconds.. too rich?! right?) She purrs fairly consistantly at 3000k, sometimes you can get 2700 but you can tell it likes 3k better.
Now I let it run for 30-45 secs and then go full throttle to make sure it responds. I keep leaning til it stumbles on WOT.. then I back up to previous turn. All looks good.

Now here is the issue... I go to set the HS again without the driver- just the F plug. Top end is fine, minor adjustment. Now I slow down figuring it will be richer setting without the driver's help. It pretty much dies. I lean LS, little by little. It wont run for more than a sec or two. I back up (counting turns) to where I started and go richer.. same result.
What am I missing?!?!?! Do I need a hotter plug? I even tried turning down the voltage on the driver (panel knob) and it is a little better behaved, but once you disconnect... dies.

After all this effort it is driving me nuts! Thanks for your suggestions..
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Old 01-29-2011, 05:12 PM
  #19466
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You cannot get a hotter plug than the OS "f"

Do you have a different OS "F" you could try? Maybe the old plug?
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Old 01-29-2011, 05:29 PM
  #19467
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You guys are going to think I am nuts but I had this problem on a Texaco set up 65.  What I did was strip the engine because I figured that I had done every thing else and I found
a/ Some grit in the bearings (they were same from new 10 + years old, new ones fitted
b/ I found some celluose (caused by water contaminated fuel) in the carby, actually in the outlet from the spray bar in the elipse
c/ a bit of grit in the carby the fuel filter was "stuffed" with a very small amount of foreigh objects.  Comes from using "supplied fuel" at competitions and lettting others do the refuelling duties for you.
I cleaned all that out, re set valves etc made sure timing was spot on all the usual stuff, could not get a Saito P3 plug (they have changed to these new things) so used an OS F initially to confirm it would run until the new Saito plug came and put the new plug in (saito)
In addition I sealed all the bits with Hylomar (blue sealant developed by Roll Royce (dirty word here at present what with expanding engines and all) for the RR Dart engines.  That engine now runs really well, what actually fixed it  buggered if I know
As an aside I also use permatex if Hylomar is not available.  Difference between the two to my mind for this application is colour, if you like bronze use Permatex if you like pretty blue use Hylomar both are a bugger to clean but both work well and come of easily at disaasembly and if you use this stuff a little goes a very long way.
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Old 01-29-2011, 05:42 PM
  #19468
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FNQFLYER, it sounds like you had a series of problems to pick from... bad fuel plugging the plumbing in my first guess with bad bearings helping things along. How was the valve lash before you tore it down? Could that have had too much gap, which could have given you the initial problems?

Just my $.02

Bob
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Old 01-29-2011, 05:55 PM
  #19469
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Roto, always set the LS needle with the HS needle at peak, the two needles effect each other somewhat, peaking the HS needle eliminates one variable. Plugs won't cure a poor needle setting.
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:20 PM
  #19470
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Got a problem and need some suggestions:
Pictures below show my delima but anyway. On my FG36 the bolt that holds the left rockerarm bracket tothe head sheared offflush with the head. I have replacement parts ordered namely new headbolt set and a new gasketset. I am however at a loss as to how I am going to remover the part of the bolt that is still in the head. Anyone have suggestions?
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:23 PM
  #19471
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I've seen peolpe take a small sharp diamond point chisel and tap them out with a small hammer

[img]file:///tmp/moz-screenshot.png[/img]
[img]file:///tmp/moz-screenshot-1.png[/img][img]file:///tmp/moz-screenshot-2.png[/img]

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Old 01-29-2011, 06:40 PM
  #19472
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Roto, always set the LS needle with the HS needle at peak, the two needles effect each other somewhat, peaking the HS needle eliminates one variable. Plugs won't cure a poor needle setting.

I can say whenever I tune with the glow driver on and hit the lean side the plug is instantly trashed . No more smooth idle for me , I burned up about 4 plugs doing this ,there is really no need to use a glow driver to tune the engine IMO.
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:40 PM
  #19473
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I have seen my dad use a cape chisel, as you described, to remove a sheared stud from an automobile engine block by tapping the high side of what is left in a counterclockwise direction. I don't know if it will work on something as small as what is described.

Bob
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:48 PM
  #19474
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If it were larger I would drill the center and use an extractor, However I have never seen an extractor small enough for this. Additionally thebolt has some kind of redcoating on the threads. The picture of the replacementbolts show the same red coating as well. That can only make it more difficult to remove it.

I will make a trip to Lowes to pick up a small chisel and try that.

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Old 01-29-2011, 07:19 PM
  #19475
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Looks like they have Locktite on them?


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